The sun hasn’t risen yet over the Lorong Kulit Car Park. Only dim motorbike headlights and the flicker of small bonfires perforate the thick darkness. While drummers tighten their drum skins over the flames, makeshift altars pop up among the blindfolded statues of Lord Murugan. Groups form, onlookers balancing on tiptoes as they try to score the best view. It’s not the usual morning flea market they’re after. For one extraordinary day, this sleepy George Town parking lot becomes the spiritual runway for Thaipusam, Penang‘s favorite Hindu festival.

In the days leading up to Thaipusam Day, Penang’s Tamil community had already handcrafted hundreds of wearable temples called kavadis, cracked thousands of coconuts, rolled iconic chariots through city streets, and prepared enough food to feed a small nation. Thaipusam celebration in Penang is among the largest in the world. But what resembles a massive exhibitionistic spectacle from the outside is normally a fulfillment of deeply personal and meaningful vows.

Thaipusam in Penang is an experience like no other

At the car park pulsing with mysticism since the wee hours, devotees prepare their offerings for a 4-kilometer march to the hilltop Waterfall Temple. Some slip into an expressive trance-like state, faces contorted in ecstasy. Others stay grounded in intimate bubbles, silent despite the noise.

A calm man with a short mustache catches my eye. His body is a gallery of miniatures. Small versions of milk pots hang from his torso, while a metal skewer in the shape of a spear (vel) penetrates his forehead.

As new holes are made in the skin of his back, absent and present at the same time, he pierces his wife with a deep gaze. The supportive woman can hardly handle it; she palms some of the pots, perhaps to absorb part of the burden, and joins the crowd outvoiced by the drums. Her lips tremble in rhythm: “Vel, vel! Vel, vel!”

While resting one arm on the shoulder of his young son, he reaches her forehead with the other, brushing her hair back with a tenderness that cuts deeper than any spear. She breaks into tears. The man tries to wipe them, but she swats his hand away, reaching for her sari instead.

Thaipusam Festival in Penang, Malaysia, is an experience like no other. If you’re planning to visit this intense test of spirit, here’s everything you need to know about the powerful Penang Thaipusam!

TL;DR: Thaipusam in Penang is a vibrant Hindu festival held each January or February, celebrating the victory of Lord Murugan over evil. It begins at George Town’s Little India and features a grand chariot procession to the Waterfall Hilltop Temple, intense acts of devotion like kavadi bearing and body piercings, and an outpouring of community spirit. Thousands of devotees walk barefoot for hours, while locals hand out free food and drinks (annathanam) along the way. Whether you’re a pilgrim or a curious traveler, Thaipusam is one of Malaysia’s most intense and unforgettable cultural experiences.

History and Significance of Thaipusam in Penang

Thaipusam roots run deep, all the way to Tamil Nadu, the southernmost state of India and the spiritual homeland of Lord Murugan fan clubs. From there, the festival spread to regions with large Tamil populations such as Singapore, Indonesia, Sri Lanka, Mauritius, and – Malaysia, where the celebration is mind-blowingly grand.

Thaipusam commemorates the day when Goddess Parvati handed her son, Lord Murugan, the deity of war and virtue in the Hindu pantheon, a powerful divine spear (vel) to defeat the demon Soorapadman (Surapadman).

This triumph of good over evil is at the heart of the festival that pilgrims embrace with devotion, gratitude, and penance. Many express their faith through purifying self-sacrifice, performing piercing rituals, or carrying physical burdens Tamils call kavadi. These can range from pots of milk to towering structures strapped to their bodies.

Thaipusam’s origin story can be traced to the Hindu scripture of Skanda Purana, so the mythology suggests this celebration has been around for thousands of years.

In Penang, the festival arrived in the 19th century, with South Indian migrants, especially the Nattukottai Chettiar community from the Chettinad region in Tamil Nadu. The British founded George Town in 1786, and as Tamil laborers worked and worshipped, in the 1800s they set up a simple shrine near a waterfall where they used to collect water. They embellished the humble hut with a spear and dedicated it to their patron deity, Lord Murugan. This was the site of the first Thaipusam celebrations on the island.

As for Thaipusam processions, Penang has been hosting them since 1856. In 1915, when the authorities relocated the shrine to a new hill, the Waterfall Hilltop Temple (Arulmigu Balathandayuthapani Temple) at Jalan Kebun Bunga became the epicenter of the festivities ever since.

Today, Penang throws the biggest Thaipusam celebration in all of Malaysia, and the largest outside of India, attracting thousands of devotees seeking blessings and tourists seeking wonder. Thousands? More like 1.5 million.

If you thought self-punishment was such a non-Christian thing to do, think again. Or just check out what Catholics do at Maleldo Festival!

Thaipusam in Penang – What’s so special about it?

1. Chetti Pusam for the early birds

Penang Thaipusam celebration is specific because it starts a day earlier – with Chetti Pusam.

On Thaipusam Eve, the Chettiar Indian community follows the silver chariot procession, carrying the thol kavadi (in Tamil: shoulder burden). This wooden arched structure is adorned with flowers and peacock feathers (the symbol of Lord Murugan’s vehicle).

Sometimes, the kavadi includes a pot of Indian organic sugar (nattu sakkarai), in which case it is called sakkarai kavadi. After receiving blessings, this sugar is used for the production of panchamirtham, a traditional Indian sweet made from bananas, honey, and dried fruits like dates and raisins.

2. Penang Thaipusam has two chariots – silver and gold

Thaipusam procession in Penang is unique because it involves two chariots – a silver one and a gold one.

It wasn’t always as blingy. In the late 19th century, a wooden chariot was in use for 37 years.

But in 1894, Penang Thaipusam ordered a silver chariot from Karaikudi (the homeland of Nattukottai Chettiar in Tamil Nadu). Two similar chariots were made at the same time, and allegedly the larger one, originally intended for Singapore, was delivered to Penang due to a shipping mix-up.

Standing over 7 meters tall, and weighing 5 tons, this silver chariot has been the star of the Thaipusam Penang event for 131 years. Traditionally pulled by a pair of oxen (representing the sacred bull Nandi, the vehicle of Lord Shiva), the silver chariot carries the statue of Lord Murugan, making a slow journey from Nagarathar Kovil Veedu Temple on Penang Street in Little India to Nattukkottai Chettiar Temple on Jalan Kebun Bunga.

Penang Thaipusam golden chariot joined the divine convoy in 2017. This chariot carries a vel, Lord Murugan’s sacred spear. It departs from Sri Mahamariamman Temple on Queen Street (the oldest Hindu temple in Penang), and heads to Sri Balathandayuthapani Temple on Jalan Kebun Bunga (the largest Lord Murugan’s temple outside of India, also known as the Penang Waterfall Hill Temple or Mel-Kovil, the hilltop temple).

On the eve of Thaipusam, the silver chariot sets off first, at 6 am, with the golden chariot following an hour later. But this isn’t a race. Every few steps, barefoot devotees halt the procession to lift offerings and receive blessings.

The mobile temples should reach the final destination of their 7-kilometer-long route before midnight. Fingers crossed. Because… There is another thing slowing down Penang Thaipusam chariot processions…

3. Thaipusam Penang coconut smash

The climate change has caused a coconut shortage in Malaysia. With stocks going down, prices went up. But that didn’t deter devotees from engaging in one of their favorite Thaipusam rituals – breaking coconuts.

Stacked into pyramids, then set fire to, hairy orbs await along the route of Thaipusam chariot processions. As the chariot approaches, the crowd springs to action. Devotees pick coconuts from the ground and smash them against the asphalt. Special street cleanup crews then quickly remove broken shells from the path, so the chariot can continue.

The coconut-breaking ceremony signifies an act of surrender in front of God. While the hard shell represents ego (tough, stubborn, and in need of cracking), the exposed white flesh symbolizes purity (the soul). By smashing coconuts on the streets, devotees throw away the bad luck from the past and invite good luck in the future.

Despite the deficit in coconut supply, hundreds of thousands of coconuts pay the price of a blessing on Penang streets during Thaipusam. With coconuts ending up in a landfill, environmentalists criticize this waste of resources. While some previous coconut smashers redirected their funds to, for instance, feeding Thaipusam visitors, many refuse to give up on the custom. Individuals are known to purchase 108 or even 1008 coconuts for the ritual, following the significant numbers in Hinduistic numerology.

4. Penang Thaipusam Panthal – no one leaves hungry

If there’s one thing more abundant than coconuts at Penang Thaipusam, it’s food. The festival is famous for its unique thaneer panthal (in Tamil, it translates as water pavilion).

Lining Jalan Kebun Bunga, the pilgrim path to the hilltop temple, are over 150 festively decorated stalls (in 2025, this delicious traffic jam counted 169 booths!). The volunteers at these refreshment huts serve up free vegetarian food and drinks to everyone willing to queue. It’s an occasion to break the fast with authentic South Indian soul-hugging delicacies, most often rice topped with curries, sambals, and other add-ons.

This act of serving food, called annadanam (in Sanskrit, anna means food, and danam means donation), is considered the highest form of charity and compassion in Hinduism. The practitioners believe that, besides satisfying hunger, this tradition also earns blessings for the giver, providing spiritual growth.

Thaneer panthal, with its warm generosity and community service, is the reason why Thaipusam in Penang is often called a festival that won’t leave anyone hungry.

Pro tip: Devotees traditionally eat these meals with their right hand. No forks, no spoons, just fingers. If you’re more of a utensil user, it’s wise to bring your own cutlery.

5. Chinese participation in Penang Thaipusam

Penang isn’t just Malaysia’s food capital. It’s also an island of multiculturality. While traditionally a Tamil Hindu celebration, Thaipusam in Penang attracts a notable number of ethnic Chinese. They attend it as spectators, but also actively participate in ceremonies.

Many ethnic Chinese bring offerings, wear saris and veshtis, break coconuts, and chant “Vel vel!” with as much gusto as their Tamil neighbors. They even carry kavadis and undergo piercing rituals.

While not changing their beliefs (the majority of them are Buddhist, and not interested in converting to Hinduism), they pay homage to Lord Murugan mostly as a consequence of decades-long exposure to Hindu religious practices in their neighborhoods.

Things get even more interesting when Thaipusam overlaps with the Chinese New Year. Sometimes, in cultural cross-pollination, there are even Chinese lion dance performances honoring Lord Murugan.

While an outsider could see Chinese participation in Penang’s Thaipusam as cultural appropriation, the inclusive Hindu community welcomes them with open arms and open hearts.

Racism at Thaipusam?

At Lorong Kulit Car Park, as devotees gather for their early-morning kavadi walk to the Waterfall Temple, the majority of observers seem to be Chinese. Many are armed with multiple cameras, telephoto lenses and selfie sticks, getting up close and personal with extreme Hindu rituals.

I often find myself stepping away from such crowds. There's this subtle nuance when photographer's understandable interest transforms into a limitless voyeurism that shows no respect for open wounds, sacred moments, or - anyone. So I rather wander off, find quieter angles, with patience, and when welcome.

That's how I met a young Hindu boy preparing to carry his very first kavadi. I was filming this family throughout the morning (much before the rituals that make most photographers salivate began).

Each time I passed, the boy greeted me with a smile. So when the moment of his forehead piercing finally comes, I am lucky to be right there, front row. Not because I forced my way in, but because I'd been there – quietly, consistently.

Noticing the unfolding scene (it's a pre-teen getting pierced, after all!), this older Chinese photographer storms in, pushing me, and creating commotion during the ritual.

He yells at me, accusing me of "hitting him so many times" with my backpack while he was just "standing here".

The claim is absurd, as I had been standing calm and alone when the ritual began. But I say nothing, there's no need for my uncalled voice to interrupt the moment as well. But Chinese paparazzo doesn't stop. He physically pushes himself in front of me, in full spite.  

After the ritual is over, he continues: "Go back to your country! You are f***ing rude!"

The boy's father, with incredible grace, tries to deescalate the situation. He turns to the photographer, and defends me: "He is a good man!"

Still, as the Chinese guy leaves the scene (presumably, to hunt other shots he feels entitled to), the atmosphere remains somewhat stirred.

His rasist slur that sent me "back to my country", so he could exercise his privilege to photograph in the country called Malaysia (not China), reminded me of another uncomfortable moment I experienced with a group of also Chinese-origin photographers in Ethiopia, when I was shooting photos of Bete Giyorgis in Lalibela. They too tried to turn a spiritual space into a chaotic photo op, dehumanizing locals for the sake of a "perfect shot".

Penang Thaipusam Schedule

Two days before Thaipusam

Sights and sounds of Little India

This year, Thaipusam coincides with Chinese New Year, and George Town is bursting with double the energy. I decide to leave the Tanjong CNY Celebration at Fort Cornwallis earlier. It’s fine, I’ve already caught my fill of LED dragons, pole-jumping lions and pyrotechnics at Pai Ti Kong. I enjoyed the sunset at this historic fort during Chap Goh Mei, I admired the art of calligraphy at Kek Lok Si, and feasted on Chinese street treats across George Town.

Instead of yet another loud welcome to the Year of Snake, I decide to spend my evening in Little India. Already two days before the official Thaipusam Day, this vibrant enclave in the heart of the city is buzzing.

In front of the Sri Mahamariamman Temple, Penang’s oldest Hindu temple, the commotion unfolds.

As urumi melam drums play their hypnotic, trance-inducing rhythm, a singer follows lyrics from a phone and spreads them over a megaphone. Barefoot puppeteers twirl around on top of a colorful mandala. A male giant dances with a drum, a female one carries a flute. Another two dancers are dressed as horses, and one spins with a rooster and a peacock atop his portable shoulder shrine – thol kavadi.

In the next round, a youthful troupe lights up the square, with the folk dance from the country of their ancestors – kolattam. Holding two wooden sticks each, they tap in rhythm, while harmoniously forming lines, triangles, and circles. Two girls join the energetic routine by flaunting peacock feathers, and another two balance tinsel-decked pots on their heads, a colorful spin on paal kudam (milk pot offering).

As the young performers pose for group selfies, a new wave of sounds rises from a red stage from across the street, where a seated band starts playing traditional Tamil songs.

Scents and flavors of Little India

On my way to Little India, I made a quick pit stop at Penang Famous Samosa, just before the Michelin-approved stall called it a day. Best Indian snack I’ve ever had – crispy, spicy, perfect. Little did I know there would be plenty of free food where I was heading.

As dancers and musicians set the atmosphere and entertain the crowd, a variety of delicacies quietly come out of the shrine.

A young woman in sari passes through the crowd, carrying a silver tray loaded with vadai, lentil fritters. This is blessed food, or prasadam. Just moments later, another woman graciously tiptoes across a floor covered in sandals, while distributing laddus, turmeric-colored sweet balls. This is only an intro for annadanam that comes later, making samosas in my bag utterly excessive.

The evening deepens, and devotees start lining up in front of massive pots set up at a makeshift food stall near the temple entrance. Volunteers serve generous portions into plastic containers, filling them with rice, dal, chutneys, and spiced vegetables.

No tables, no chairs, no bills. People eat standing, squatting on sidewalks, or from the trunks of cars doubling as dinner tables. It’s a gigantic street buffet, just a preview of thaneer panthal that saves everyone’s food budget in the following days.

Little India’s business as usual

During the cultural and gastronomic program, life in Little India doesn’t hit pause.

As we watch the dancing whirlabout, two men carve a path through the crowd, arms raised high, carrying gigantic banana stems with leaves to be placed on each side of the temple entrance, as a symbol of purity.

A truck filled with these banana stalks pulls up, stopping in front of one business after another, so they too can decorate their doorways.

These potless plants are so big that they hardly pass through the shops’ inventory and, on occasion, accidentally knock over a milk pot display.

Businesses brim with activity. Last-minute shopping is a thing. Devotees are still picking paal kudam for Thaipusam. Pots of every size spill out of storefronts and onto sidewalks. A wooden pallet stacked with milk bottles blocks one entrance entirely, never having made it to the shelves.

Local florists are in full overdrive, stringing jasmine, roses, and marigolds into vibrant garlands in their open-air factories of fragrance and color.

Need a coconut? They got you covered. Didn’t order your kavadi in time? Here’s a small one that sits on your shoulder perfectly!

Retail before ritual – everything you can possibly need for Thaipusam processions is here. Even the main thing.

In front of the Sri Mahamariamman Temple, a gold-plated chariot, partially covered with scaffolding and tarpaulin, shines bright, waiting for tomorrow’s grand journey across the town.

Day before Thaipusam

People going coconuts

Even though the golden chariot procession from Aralmigu Mahamariamman Temple was scheduled to start at 6 am, and the silver chariot procession from Nagarathar Kovil Veedu Temple at 7 am, each would be almost half an hour late.

When I arrive at 5:30 am, both chariots seem prepped to go. People stand around, impatient. The same florists from the night before are still threading garlands. Meanwhile, breakfast stations are already serving free morning meals. The streets are lined with mini mountains of coconuts, some dusted with turmeric, some burning.

At 6 am, the sound of tavil drums and nadaswaram (the world’s loudest non-brass acoustic instrument) mixes with a siren. Police try to herd the crowd forward so that the procession can start.

Only at 6:20 am does the golden chariot appear at Chulia Street (just 40 meters from the temple!). Coconuts start raining on the parade, exploding against the asphalt into thousands of pieces.

The same friendly people who were, just minutes ago, distributing breakfast with a smile, now hurl hard shells as if they are piñatas. Juice splashes across saris, shell pieces hit feet like shrapnels. It hurts, I can confirm. But I still try to film, partially hiding behind a street cleaner.

Young, old, men, women, children… Everyone gets to smash a coconut! It may look like war. But it’s worship.

Then – a whistle. Coconut-bombing stops, and a well-coordinated cleaning squad in reflective yellow vests scoops up the debris with scrapers.

For larger piles of coconuts, a skid steer loader is employed. Watch out when this mechanical bull starts plowing through husks – you don’t want to stand in its path!

Coconut carnage is cleared in minutes. But just 20 meters away, the ritual repeats itself.

Thaipusam chariots on the way

Besides the ever-growing carpet of shattered coconuts, devotees seeking blessings for their offerings are also slowing down the progress of the chariot procession.

Normally, they bring silver or brass trays stacked with flowers (jasmine, lotus, marigold), fruits (bananas, mangoes, pomegranates), incense sticks, and milk. There should be one coconut on each plate, too.

These coconuts are already cracked open, cradling a burning camphor block (karpooram in Tamil), releasing a calming scent into the air.

Before they approach the chariot with their offering, devotees have to stop by another bottleneck of Thaipusam’s traffic jam – the mobile coconut-breaking station that goes ahead of the chariot, at snail’s speed. Armed with cleavers and machetes, temple helpers expertly slice coconuts open, and then anoint them with ash and camphor. A small donation (say, 10 ringgit) is customary for this service.

Now with a fully prepared offering plate, devotees storm the chariot. They hand the trays up to the priest who performs a blessing ritual with vibuthi (sacred ash) before returning it.

Parents approach the chariot asking for the same blessing for their children. Babies get lifted up, returning with the holy ash on their forehead and sometimes tears in their eyes.

Everyone wants to get close to the chariot, even if it is just to touch it from behind and exclaim: “Vel, vel!”

While the larger golden chariot, carrying the divine spear, is motorized, the older silver chariot, bearing the idol of Lord Murugan, is pulled traditional way – by oxen. In total, eighteen bulls take turns, each pair pulling the chariot for less than a kilometer before the swap.

These oxen, with brightly painted horns, and adorned with flowers, ropes, and bells, are an instant photo op while they wait for their time slot. Some people feed them bananas.

The light version of Thaipusam

There’s a lot happening as the Thaipusam chariots slowly make their way toward Penang Botanic Gardens.

Along the route, you’ll find miniature shrines, blooming with mandalas, fresh flowers, and images or statues of Lord Murugan and other Hindu deities. Some of these praying spots are simple, others go full-on Vegas – with extravagant lighting, mist sprayers, smoke machines, and water features.

These shrines are often attached to thaneer panthals, generous roadside refreshment stalls where volunteers hand out drinks and food.

If you’re walking with little ones, places like Sia Boey Urban Archaeological Park offer a playground break mid-pilgrimage. Kids will surely summon enough energy for swings, teeters, and slides.

Besides for devotional walks, coconut water-slicked asphalt also serves as a podium for barefoot teens performing kolattam dance. In synchronized formations, they clash their wooden sticks against each other and the ground, adding to the intense soundscape made by traditional musical instruments.

But probably the main attraction of the day before Thaipusam, or Chetti Pusam, are exactly those Chettiar Indians who stop at crossroads and other key places to perform a thol kavadi dance.

The most basic wooden-arch kavadi is not just physically lightweight. If you think you’re not ready for Thaipusam’s hardcore rituals, this procession is the gentle way in, as Chettiars don’t express faith by piercing their bodies. You’ll still experience dancing, singing, and (comm)unity Thaipusam is known for.

Thaipusam Penang road closures

Whether you want to jump into the Penang Thaipusam procession at just the right point, or you’re simply a driver hoping to avoid a traffic jam, it’s good to know which roads close during Thaipusam celebrations.

Typically, roads on the pathway of processions are closed from 10 am on Thaipusam Eve (the day before Thaipusam) until midnight on the day after Thaipusam (when the chariots are expected to return to their parent temples).

After departing from Queen Street and Penang Street, the processions usually follow this route: Chulia Street → Victoria Street → Gat Jalan Prangin → Jalan CY Choy → Jalan Magazine → Jalan Dato Keramat → Jalan Utama → Jalan Kebun Bunga.

The golden chariot which starts first, at 6 am on Thaipusam Eve from Arulmigu Sri Mahamariamman Temple, ends its journey at Thaneermalai Shree Balathandayuthapani Devasthanam or Waterfall Hilltop Temple.

The silver chariot which departs at 7 am from the Nagarathar Kovil Veedu Temple, heads toward the Nattukkottai Chettiar Temple.

Routes can change from year to year. For the most accurate info, check updates from local authorities like MBPP (Penang Island City Council) or PHEB (Penang Hindu Endowments Board). They usually release detailed road closure notices ahead of the festival.

Also, there is a handy tool called Penang Thaipusam chariot tracker, which lets you pinpoint the chariot’s real-time location during the festival – here.

Thaipusam Day

Musicians’ and kavadi makers’ best gig

Thaipusam Day is all about the kavadi processions. Most devotees begin their burdened walk at Lorong Kulit Car Park, making their way up to the Waterfall Hilltop Temple.

Musicians staying at my hotel confirmed it works both ways. They had come all the way from Ipoh, hired to play by two different kavadi bearers – one heading from the parking lot to the hill temple in the morning, and the other one walking the same route in the opposite direction in the afternoon.

Some kavadi bearers even prefer the night walk, as I witnessed. While there are fewer crowds in the evening preceding Thaipusam, there are also fewer participants, and more darkness. To witness piercing rituals, your best bet is to show up on Thaipusam morning.

Throughout the day, trucks deliver dozens and dozens of elaborate kavadis. The supply seems endless. It’s a good time to be a cabinet maker. During Thaipusam, they too are able to respond to multiple well-paid orders, just like the musicians.

On Jalan Dato Keramat, one carpenter shop was in full swing through the night. I’ve passed by in the evening and again in the early morning – same men, still at work, no sign of sleep.

“During the year, I make cabinets”, Ragu (45) tells me while his 18-year-old son adds the final touches to one of the kavadi skeletons. “They are all handmade, and I am free to do whatever I want. Customers give me the artistic freedom.”

It’s all hard work in this raw garage-style space, bare concrete, exposed wires, sawdust-covered floors, screws, wood, and chunks of styrofoam scattered around. A creative mess.

“This Thaipusam, I’m making 10 kavadis”, Ragu shares. “I charge between 1.500 and 2.400 ringgit.”

In a country where the average carpenter earns 2.500 ringgit per month, pulling in ten Thaipusam orders worth 340 to 540 USD each is more than good business – it’s a blessing.

Piercing rituals at the parking lot

Lorong Kulit Car Park, on the western side of Penang City Stadium, is a gathering point for devotees and spectators. The piercing ritual, as I already explained, can be emotionally charged for both (the crying-wife episode, and the Chinese photo conflict).

While devotees silence their bodies and surrender their tongues, cheeks, and skin to the piercing power of the vel, not everyone around them tunes into the same frequency. Amateur or professional, photographers swarm the ritual space. Just like at the Phuket Vegetarian Festival, courtesy often takes a back seat to the quest for the perfect shot.

If you prefer learning about Thaipusam Day via a video, watch this YouTube recording that follows devotees marching from the parking lot to the temples!

 

After days spent fasting and abstaining from worldly pleasures, devotees welcome Thaipusam Day freshly bathed, clothed in yellow. Though not as common here as at Batu Caves, some go the extra mile with bald-shaven heads, santhanam (sandalwood paste) smeared on their scalps.

Small altars made of banana leaves, laid out with sanctified offerings like coconuts, flowers, betel leaves, turmeric, incense, and camphor, become miniature temples on asphalt. Here, prayers are whispered, blessings are sought.

Before the piercing act begins, the piercee might lie down before their parents or spiritual guide, as a sign of respect, humility, and surrender.

Then comes the transformation. Surrounded by a circle of family and friends chanting the encouraging “vel, vel”, and carried by the pounding rhythm of drums, devotees slip into a trance, or at least a meditative state of inner calm.

The piercer, usually someone experienced, applies vibuthi ash to their body as a protective balm and then inserts spears or hooks.

Bodies are adorned with various objects. It could be a long skewer through the cheeks, a thin spear through the tongue or forehead, hooks in the chest, stomach and back used to suspend small pots, shells, bells, or other symbolic objects, or even larger back hooks attached to ropes or chains, used to pull chariots.

Kavadi types at Penang Thaipusam

Pierced and burdened, kavadi bearers cross the street to reach Sri Muthu Mariamman Temple. Here, final prayers are offered, and a designated group member smashes a coconut. Slushing through coconut water mixed with turmeric, devotees begin their barefoot journey towards Arulmigu Balathandayuthapani Temple (the Waterfall Hill Temple).

A myriad of kavadis can be seen in the Thaipusam parade:

1. Paal kudam (milk pot kavadi)

The most common and accessible form of kavadi. Devotees carry a pot of cow’s milk on their head or shoulder, which will later be used for abhisheka – the ritual bathing of the deity’s statue. Paal kudam or paal kavadi is often chosen by first-timers, women, or children, as it doesn’t involve piercing or structural burden. Instead of milk, the pot could also contain sanctified water (theertha kavadi) or rose water (panneer kavadi).

2. Thol kavadi (shoulder kavadi)

Thol kavadi is simple, humble, and easy to carry, so it is a popular choice for young participants (alongside paal kudam). The wooden semi-circular structure adorned with peacock feathers, flowers, and images of Lord Murugan, rests on the devotee’s shoulder. If this kavadi is heavily decorated with flowers, it’s called pushpa kavadi.

3. Mayil kavadi (peacock kavadi)

A carpenter’s dream, mayil kavadi or alangara kavadi is an extravagant portable altar that can tower up to 3 meters high, and weigh up to 40 kilograms. Decorated in vibrant colors, with peacock feathers, ornaments, bells, and Murugan iconography, this kavadi is carried on a frame strapped onto the devotee via waist and shoulder support.

4. Idumban kavadi (pole kavadi)

Idumban kavadi is a shoulder pole named after the original kavadi bearer – Idumban. Legend says he carried two hills from the Himalayas to South India on such a pole, so idumban kavadi is a symbolic recreation of this journey – using a wooden yoke-like pole with offerings hanging from either end.

5. Alavu kavadi (silent kavadi)

This kavadi focuses more on inner discipline than on structure – alavu kavadi is a form of penitence that prevents devotees from speaking during the Sacred Walk. Their cheek or tongue (or both) are pierced with a small vel (spear) as a form of intentional self-muting in honor of Lord Murugan.

6. Alagu kavadi (beautiful kavadi)

Alagu kavadi is a highly decorative kavadi structure that rests on a devotee’s body via skewers or spikes. It attracts the most attention, but to me it seems it’s more prevalent at Batu Caves Thaipusam. Similar types include silavu kavadi, sedil kutthuk kavadi, or vel kavadi – all of which involve piercing and decorative frameworks.

7. Koodam mulle kavadi (hanging-offerings kavadi)

Koodam mulle kavadi involves small pots of milk, shells, bells, flowers, or fruits (like apples, oranges, or limes). They are tied to hooks which then pierce the devotee’s skin. One kavadi bearer might have hundreds of these little objects hanging from his torso.

8. Vette mulle kavadi (hook-and-pull kavadi)

Vette mulle implies piercing a devotee’s back with hooks. These are attached to ropes or chains that either pull a chariot or are held by an assistant walking behind and applying just enough backward tension to challenge the devotee. The pulling of the chariot is also referred to as ratha kavadi.

Temptations and challenges on the way to the Waterfall Temple

On their path to the temple, kavadi bearers pause for well-deserved breaks – collapsing into chairs brought along by their escort crew, or having water sprinkled on their burning feet and poured down their vel-barred mouths.

They may stop to dance too. Along Jalan Kebun Bunga, traditional Indian music in almost techno blast blares from massive speaker setups, urging devotees to take their kavadis for a spin, displaying them in full glory. Some get a little too enthusiastic, and chunks of styrofoam occasionally flutter to the ground. But that doesn’t stop their ardor.

For non-devotees, reasons to take a break from the walk are even more numerous. Thaneer panthal pavilions offer everything from curry rice and pastries to oranges, soy milk, and sweet juices. This whole stretch of Penang Thaipusam has the vibe of a carnival; you can buy various trinkets and helium balloons, queue for cotton candy, or even take photographs with live snakes wrapped around your neck and yellow-colored pigeons balancing on your shoulders.

Sugar might be the perfect power-up for the final ascent. Reaching Penang Waterfall Hill Temple, one of the largest Hindu temples in Southeast Asia, requires climbing up 513 steps. As everyone wants to spend some time at the temple, pedestrian traffic jam is real. My slow advance to the top via the winding staircase takes almost an hour.

If you’re not great with handling tightly packed crowds, fortunately, there’s a halfway rest stop offering water, shade, and even medical help. That’s not to be underestimated. While I was sipping orange juice, one tourist fainted. First aid volunteers were there in no time.

At the top of the hill, a monumental gopuram tower, 21.6 meters in height, marks the entrance to the temple where you can leave your offerings, or watch the deity being washed in milk (abhishekam).

Metal railings separate three queues at the temple gates. The left one is for those bringing kavadi and paal kudam, the middle is reserved for milk offerings of all shapes and sizes (from smaller paal chembu to larger paal kudam and even commercially packed milk bottles), while the queue on the right is for archanai offerings (coconut, bananas, flowers etc.).

No matter which queue you pick, you’ll be able to enter the temple only if you take your shoes off.

Day after Thaipusam

The return of the chariots

After spending the entire Thaipusam Day at the temples, the chariots go on a return journey the day after Thaipusam – the golden one departs at 6 pm, while the silver chariot rolls out at 7 pm.

If you want to follow along and crack another coconut or two (or 108?), among the significantly fewer crowds, it’s good to know that the return journey follows a different route.

The return path of chariots winds through these roads: Jalan Kebun Bunga → Jalan Gottlieb → Jalan Tunku Abdul Rahman → Jalan Cantonment → Jalan Macalister → Jalan Anson → Jalan Burma → Jalan Transfer → Jalan Sri Bahari → Jalan Penang → Lebuh Campbell → Jalan Buckingham → Jalan Masjid Kapitan Keling → Little India loop.

Just like during the forward procession, you can track the chariot’s return journey online too.

Recommended hotel near Penang Thaipusam locations

If you’re looking to stay in the heart of Little India, where most Thaipusam festivities begin, Palm Mansion Boutique Suites is a charming option. With its blend of traditional heritage and modern comfort, it makes an excellent base for exploring the celebrations. For the best deal, compare prices for your dates on Booking, Agoda, Expedia, and Trip.

For budget travelers, Armenian House by IIP offers great value. Their dormitory room comes with comfy bunk beds, each with a privacy curtain, individual light, and a charging point. The beds are spacious – even tall guests will sleep well. Check and compare prices for your dates on Booking, Agoda, and Trip.

If you’d rather stay closer to the Waterfall Temple, G Hotel Kelawai is an excellent 5-star choice. Expect modern, stylish rooms, and luxury amenities like a rooftop infinity pool. Snag the best deals by comparing rates on Booking, Agoda, Expedia, and Trip.

Looking for a more affordable stay in the same area? Consider Gurney Lodge, which offers clean, air-conditioned rooms at reasonable rates without compromising comfort. I always check several booking engines before reserving a room, as rates can significantly differ. Follow my lead and compare this hotel’s prices on Booking, Agoda, and Trip.

FAQ About Thaipusam in Penang

1. When is Thaipusam celebrated in Penang?

Thaipusam is celebrated on the first full moon day in the Tamil month of Thai. This date aligns with the Pusam star reaching its highest point, typically falling in January or February, depending on the lunar calendar.

If you’re planning to visit Penang, here are the upcoming Taipusam dates:

2026 – February 1st
2027 – January 22nd
2028 – February 9th
2029 – January 30th
2030 – January 19th

2. Is Thaipusam a public holiday in Penang?

Yes, Thaipusam is a state public holiday observed in Penang, as well as in Johor, Kedah, Kuala Lumpur, Negeri Sembilan, Perak, Putrajaya, and Selangor.

3. Where is Thaipusam celebrated in Penang?

Thaipusam centers around two key temples:

• Sri Mahamariamman Temple on Queen Street – Penang’s oldest Hindu temple and the starting point of the procession.
• Arulmigu Sri Balathandayuthapani Waterfall Hilltop Temple on Jalan Kebun Bunga – the final destination of the pilgrimage.

4. How to get to Thaipusam in Penang?

Penang Thaipusam brings road closures and traffic restrictions. If you want to skip the stress of driving or hunting for scarce parking, the best is to avoid motorized vehicles altogether.

Instead, try to stay near the festival zones, and walk! This is the best way to experience the festival atmosphere. After all, it’s not like you’ll be carrying a kavadi with you all day long, will you?

5. Is there an entry fee for Penang Thaipusam?

Nope! Thaipusam is a religious event and participation is free.

6. What to wear for Thaipusam in Penang?

Go for light, breathable clothing, but keep it modest – cover shoulders and knees out of respect. Comfortable walking shoes are a must. And if you want to match the mood, wear yellow – it’s Murugan’s color!

7. Can I take photos?

Yes. Photography is welcome, but be respectful. Avoid using flash, especially around kavadi bearers or during rituals. Step back when people are in a trance.

8. Are there food and drinks available at the festival?

Absolutely! Thaneer panthal stalls hand out free vegetarian meals, while others sell Indian snacks, sweets, and drinks to keep you going.

9. Can I participate in the procession?

The sacred rituals are for devotees, but you’re welcome to walk alongside the procession and observe the experience up close.

10. Is Thaipusam safe for solo travelers?

Yes, it’s generally safe. That said, large crowds can attract pickpockets. Avoid flashy jewelry, keep your belongings close, and stay aware of your surroundings.

Thaipusam in Penang – Conclusion

I love Thaipusam. In Penang, this extraordinary festival becomes an even greater sensory overload – a vibrant collision of devotion, culture, and community spirit.

Whether you watch kavadi bearers in awe or manage to correlate with a touching experience of their commitment to a personal vow, Thaipusam is a one-of-a-kind rollercoaster of spiritual transformation and radical physical endurance.

Penang during Thaipusam is not the place to elbow your way through, chasing shots like a paparazzo with a deadline

Penang is a welcoming place year-round, but during Thaipusam, the hospitality of the Hindu community reaches its peak. Free vegetarian meals and drinks are offered with open hearts. There’s no frantic pushing on the way up the hill, only a calm and collective effort, step by step, toward the temple. And when your eyes meet a stranger’s in the crowd, often you’ll be greeted with a smile – warm and genuine.

For photographers, Thaipusam in Penang is unforgettable. But this is not the place to elbow your way through, chasing shots like a paparazzo with a deadline, and acting like a spoiled brat when things don’t go your way. The people you’re photographing have fasted for 48 days. They’ve prepared their minds and bodies to radiate something they find sacred. If they can still offer a smile after all that, the least you can do is approach them and your craft with respect and humility.

Maybe this last message is personal – addressed to a certain Chinese gentleman in a foreign country. But it applies universally. If the Hindu community of Malaysia can welcome Chinese participants into their rituals without gatekeeping, then surely we, too, can extend that same spirit of tolerance and grace to one another. Especially when all we’re trying to do is tell a – Thaipusam story.

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Two decades after the deadliest tsunami in Thailand, Ban Nam Khem is a testament to resilience and remembrance

Southern Thailand, particularly Khao Lak in Phan Nga Province, bore the brunt of the waves. At the heart of this devastation lay Ban Nam Khem, a small fishing village that lost a quarter of its population.

Today, two decades after the deadliest tsunami in Thailand, Ban Nam Khem is not just a place of tragedy but a testament to resilience and remembrance.

In the special episode of Pipeaway Walks, we follow the coastline of Khao Lak, tracing a path from the luxurious Pullman Khao Lak Resort to the solemn Ban Nam Khem Tsunami Memorial Park. It’s a walk that bridges the serene present with a haunting past, offering a chance to reflect and honor the lives lost.

A Journey Along Bang Muang Beach

The walk begins at the Pullman Khao Lak Resort, a luxurious 5-star property that opened its doors in 2021, reintroducing the permission to associate water with the world of fun.

The main 1000-sqm pool, villas that offer 41-sqm private pools, and amenities ranging from a swim-up bar to a twin-looped water slide are complemented by an environmental sustainability program that addresses water conservation and the hotel’s broader ecological impact.

Pullman’s pristine setting along Bang Muang Beach is a stark contrast to the memories etched into the coastline defined by the Andaman Sea.

As we tread further along the beach, the sand gives way to the Ban Nam Khem Tsunami Memorial Park, a space created in 2006 to honor those who perished in the disaster. This poignant location tells a story not just of loss but of recovery and reverence. Every step reveals a deeper layer of connection to the events of that fateful day.

Ban Nam Khem Tsunami Memorial Park – A Place of Remembrance

The central feature of the park is a large curved wall, its design mimicking the shape of a tsunami wave. Engraved on its surface are plaques bearing the names of victims, both locals and international visitors, who lost their lives when the waves struck.

Standing before this wall, you cannot help but feel the weight of what these names represent – lives abruptly and tragically cut short. Some memorialized victims were just 10 years old.

At the edge of the memorial stands a golden statue of a seated Buddha, its back facing the Andaman Sea. Villagers believe this Buddha offers protection for those venturing into the waters, so they worship it before embarking on new journeys.

Spirit shrines in the park further enhance its spiritual atmosphere, with offerings that often include bottles of famous fizzy drinks. It all feeds the spiritual solace, as locals and visitors alike pay their respects in quiet prayers.

One particularly poignant element of the memorial is the small fishing boat that once carried a member of the Thai royal family. The grandson of the Thai king lost his life during the tsunami, a sobering reminder that this disaster spared no one, regardless of status.

For those eager to deepen their understanding, the Tsunami Memorial Museum in Nam Khem, just 1.3 kilometers away, offers broader insights into the local impact of the tsunami and the community’s recovery. There is no entrance fee for the museum (open every day except for Mondays and Tuesdays, from 08:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.), the same as for the entire Ban Nam Khem Tsunami Memorial Park (open daily from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m.).

If you’re planning a visit, book your stay at Pullman Khao Lak. Check out the latest offers and reviews on platforms like Booking, Agoda, and Trip.com. 

Khao Lak Tsunami – Keep the Memory Alive

Khao Lak has rebuilt itself as a premier travel destination, yet places like Ban Nam Khem ensure that the past is conserved. They stand as a reminder of nature’s power and the human spirit’s ability to endure.

By walking the path along Khao Lak’s tsunami beach, you’re honoring a story that must never be forgotten

Walking from Pullman Khao Lak to Ban Nam Khem Tsunami Memorial Park is more than a physical journey. It’s a reflective experience that allows you to connect with history in a meditative, deeply personal way. By visiting sites like these, we honor the memories of those who were lost and learn from the resilience of those who survived.

In a world often driven by leisure and escapism, it’s crucial to make space for remembrance. Beaches may be beautiful, but a travel experience that embraces history is both enriching and humbling. By walking the path along Khao Lak’s tsunami beach, you’re not just exploring. You’re honoring a story that must never be forgotten.

Watch the full sixth episode of Pipeaway Walks as we explore Khao Lak, from the luxurious Pullman Resort to the heartfelt tributes of Ban Nam Khem Tsunami Memorial Park.

Don’t forget to subscribe to the Pipeaway channel for more journeys into the meaningful corners of our world.

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Nimman night markets are a feast for your senses and your Instagram feed

Nimman night markets are the stars of our latest Pipeaway Walks YouTube episode. Take a half an hour, and stroll with us to feel the vibrant energy of the place, with a whirlwind of sights, sounds, and flavors.

Before you start itching to book a flight to Chiang Mai, let’s dive into what makes the Nimman night markets a feast for your senses and your Instagram feed.

Nimman’s History and Culture

Nimmanhaemin Road wasn’t always the bustling hub of creativity it is today. It started humbly as a quiet residential street before, in 2010s, blossoming into a hotspot for digital nomads, hipsters, and hungry travelers. Picture a Thai grandma’s spice rack meeting a Silicon Valley co-working space, and you’ve got Nimman’s vibe.

Night markets are some of the most recognizable Chiang Mai attractions. But here, these aren’t just places to shop – they’re stages where tradition and innovation dance together, fueled by street food and artisanal flair.

And okay, at Nimman, everything may seem overpriced, especially if you are used to Chiang Mai treating your wallet gently.

Where to stay in Nimman?

If you want to stay close to the heart of the action, consider booking Zivi Nimman. Their double bedrooms get stellar reviews! Depending on the date of your booking, you can find them already at 3.400 baht per night (approx. 95 euros or 100 dollars).

For a budget accommodation, choose modernly designed Bed Addict Hostel. A bed in dormitory can be found for 500 baht (14 euros or 15 dollars).

Exploring Nimman Night Markets

One Nimman – The Centerpiece of Night Market Culture

At the heart of the neighborhood is the One Nimman lifestyle mall, a photogenic hotspot that blends European piazza charm with Northern Thai Lanna artistry. By night, its courtyards transform into markets where every stall seems to whisper: “You know you want this.”

Nimman Street Food Night Market

Hungry? You’re in luck. Vendors here offer everything from grilled squid (perfectly charred and smoky) to hashimaki and spicy khanom krok (those little coconut milk pancake bombs with a fiery twist). Add to that a parade of meat, fish, and veggie skewers, corndogs, grass jelly desserts, dinosaur dougnuts, and chocolate-dipped strawberries, and you’ll be rolling home instead of walking. Oh, and don’t miss the rich green curry noodles and yaki suki for the ultimate comfort food!

If you are a fan of plant-based street food, you should visit Phuket Vegetarian Festival!

White Market

This weekend-only gem offers handcrafted Japanese-Lanna ceramics, textiles so soft you’ll want to hug them, and jewelry that screams “I’m unique!” You’ll often see artisans at work, like one painting portraits or another spinning clay into masterpieces right before your eyes.

Craft Market

If vintage-style clothes, quirky trinkets, and upcycled masterpieces are your thing, welcome to your personal artisanal treasure hunt. Bonus points if you leave with something that makes your friends go: “Where did you get that?!”

Beyond One Nimman – Other Markets to Explore

Night market magic isn’t confined to just Nimman’s location. Venture a little further, and you’ll stumble upon more gems:

Think Park Night Market

It’s got that chill, laid-back vibe where you can browse, snack, and people-watch all at once. Think less “mad dash” and more “slow stroll.”

Rincome Night Market

Small but mighty, this market offers a cozy selection of street food and locally made goodies. Perfect for when you’re in the mood for discovery without the overwhelm.

Chiang Mai University Night Market

If you’ve ever wanted to eat like a student without actually having to study, this is your spot. Cheap, cheerful, and packed with flavors – from grilled skewers to sweet roti pancakes.

Why Nimman Night Markets Stand Out

These markets aren’t just about shopping; they’re about soaking up an ambiance that’s as eclectic as it is electric. Whether you’re digging through vintage clothing racks or inhaling the aroma of freshly grilled skewers, you’ll find yourself smiling. Why? Because these markets manage to feel both upscale and approachable, like a five-star restaurant serving street food on fine china (well, metaphorically speaking).

But what makes Nimman Night Markets so special? Unlike traditional Chiang Mai markets, the Nimman night markets have an upscale, almost Western vibe, making them ideal for travelers seeking a fresh perspective. The creative energy of the neighborhood is palpable, with its mix of local craftsmanship, global influences, and a vibrant nightlife scene.

Stand-out Prices Too

Food is the star of any night market, and Nimman’s offerings don’t disappoint. Beyond the staples, Michelin-recognized Roti Pha Dae makes an appearance, albeit with a fancier price tag. While their original Tha Phae Road location sells roti from 15 to 45 baht, here you’ll pay 50 to 90 baht for indulgent combos like banana-egg-cheese-Nutella. But hey, it has a Bib Gourmand label – splurge a little!

More Than Just Food

The Nimman night markets are alive with creativity and entertainment. Wander through the maze of stalls and you’ll encounter:

Young live bands and acoustic guitar players (from up-and-comers to seasoned street performers).

A mesmerizing street violinist whose melodies make the night magical.

A walking-frozen silver man with a hat (yes, the human statue game is strong).

The Ganesha Temple at Come On Nimman, where you can tie colorful ribbons while making wishes – a serene moment amid the hustle and bustle.

Tips for Visiting Nimman Night Markets
1. Timing Is Everything
Markets start buzzing after 5 p.m., but weekends are prime time for peak offerings and people-watching.

2. Come Hungry
Trust us, you’ll regret that pre-market dinner when you see the variety here.

3. Cash Is King
Unless you have the option to pay via that Thai QR code, don't count on digital payments with your card. A stack of small bills will make your night smoother.

4. Chat with Vendors
Every item has a story, and every vendor has a tale. Don’t miss the chance to connect.

5. Bring a Bag
You’ll need it for all the cool finds you’ll "accidentally" buy.

Discover More with Pipeaway

At Pipeaway, we’re all about finding the world’s quirkiest, tastiest, and most unforgettable experiences.

Whether you’re a foodie, a culture vulture, or just someone who loves a good market ramble, Nimman’s night markets will steal your heart.

So grab your sense of adventure (and your wallet), and let’s explore Chiang Mai’s most hyped-up marketplace!

Watch our video for a sneak peek and let us know your favorite market moment in the comments! Don’t forget to like, share, and subscribe to stay updated.

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Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links, meaning if you click on them and make a purchase, Pipeaway may make a small commission, at no additional cost to you. Thank you for supporting our work!

The post Nimman Night Markets: The Creative Heartbeat of Chiang Mai appeared first on Pipeaway.

“This is the first time we’ll be feeding them in the enclosure”, explains Wibool Chanyam (76) as we leave behind Phra Prang Sam Yod, the 13th-century Khmer ruin known as Lopburi Monkey Temple. In past decades, the long-tailed macaques have swarmed this iconic three-spired landmark. But since the town decided to remove them from the center, most monkeys are now detained at Lopburi Municipality Animal Shelter, the “monkey prison”.

Lopburi Monkey Festival popularized the Monkey City brand in order to lure tourists to Lopburi. Until there were more monkeys than tourists

Wibool is a retired fine arts professor from Thepsatri Rajabhat University. As I flip through his “Creativity Product from Nature” monograph, I learn that Wibool’s art practice takes what is considered waste and turns it into souvenirs.

More than three decades ago, he teamed up with Yongyuth Kitwatananusont (84), the owner of Lopburi Inn Hotel, and did something similar. The two friends launched an event that would lure tourists and become the city’s most memorable attraction – the Lopburi Monkey Festival.

Known as the Lopburi Monkey Banquet or Monkey Buffet Festival, the event that popularized the branding of Lopburi as Thailand’s Monkey City (Mueang Ling) also led to an explosion in the monkey population. That came with problems. The place that feeds monkeys is now covered in signs screaming: “Don’t feed the monkeys!”

Confused? Read our guide to this extraordinary event! With all the Monkey Buffet Festival information you would possibly need, you’ll be ready to monkey around Lopburi!

If you think that feeding wild monkeys is bonkers, what would you say about the African town that feeds - hyenas? 

Lopburi Monkey Festival Guide

Where is Lopburi in Thailand?

Lopburi is located in central Thailand, about 150 kilometers north of Bangkok. While it has a relatively small population today (58.000 residents), the city has a historical significance. In the 1680s, during the reign of King Narai the Great, Lopburi was the capital of Ayutthaya Kingdom.

What is the Lopburi Monkey Festival?

Lopburi Monkey Festival is an annual event honoring crab-eating macaques, in a town where they live among humans. With its famous Monkey Banquet or Monkey Buffet, this grand feast is an occasion to get up close and personal with the Lopburi’s cheekiest residents and participate in feeding them.

Why is the Monkey Buffet Festival celebrated?

Monkeys are locally seen as symbols of prosperity and good fortune. By throwing them a great party, the residents express their gratitude for the monkeys’ role in boosting the tourism economy while being an essential part of Lopburi’s cultural identity.

The event also has roots in Hindu mythology, where Hanuman is a revered monkey god from the Indian epic of Ramayana. In local mythology, Hanuman played a key role in establishing Lopburi; he was named its king as a reward for loyalty to Lord Rama when freeing his wife Sita from demon-king Ravana. The macaques are considered Hanuman’s direct descendants, the city’s guardian troops.

What is the history of the Lopburi Monkey Banquet?

The Monkey Buffet Festival history began in 1989 as a creative way to attract tourists and celebrate the unique relationship between the city’s human and Hanuman population.

A local hotelier Yongyuth Kitwatananusont conceived the idea to turn the Lopburi’s “monkey problem” into a tourist attraction. His creative initiative was conceptualized as a festival. It was also a clever marketing stunt for his hotel that features a monkey as its mascot.

Lopburi Monkey Festival started as a modest gathering, but it quickly gained attention for its uniqueness, attracting visitors from around the world.

My favorite monkey species in the world are Geladas - the grass-eating bleeding-heart monkeys I discovered in Ethiopia while staying at Limalimo Lodge in Simien Mountains.

When is the Monkey Buffet Festival held?

The Lopburi Monkey Festival date is always in November, on the last Sunday of the month. Phra Prang Sam Yod serves as the main venue for the festivities. However, with the removal of the majority of Lopburi’s monkey population to the newly built enclosures, parts of the programs may shift in the future.

What time is the Monkey Buffet Festival?

Here’s what the current schedule of the Lopburi Monkey Festival program looks like:

09:30 Blessing food at San Phra Karn, with music and dance performances

10:30 Feeding monkeys at the Nursery

12:00 Monkey buffet at Phra Prang Sam Yod

14:00 Monkey buffet at Phra Prang Sam Yod

16:00 Monkey buffet at Phra Prang Sam Yod

Keep in mind that early feedings draw plenty of press photographers who fight for the perfect shot. If you want to have an unobstructed view of the stars of the show, the best time to visit the Lopburi Monkey Festival would be those last two feeding sessions.

Can you feed monkeys on your own?

According to the decision of the Lopburi Municipality Governor, feeding monkeys and other animals in public areas, roads, and footpaths of Lopburi is prohibited.

Anyone who violates this rule shall be fined, with a penalty fine not exceeding 2,000 baht.

The only two places where the rule doesn’t apply are clearly marked as designated feeding areas. One is in the back of the three-spire Prang Sam Yod, next to the railway tracks, and over at the Phra Khan Shrine grounds.

Monkey Buffet Festival facts

How to pronounce Lopburi: Lop boo-ree

How many monkeys live in Lopburi: Approximately 2.000 crab-eating macaques live at the Lopburi enclosure, and 200 of them still claim the heart of the city.

Lopburi Monkey Festival price: Access to feeding areas at the Nursery enclosure, as well as at Phra Prang Sam Yot (from the northern side) is free. However, if you want to enter the temple grounds, the admission is 50 baht for foreigners.

Amount of food delivered by Lopburi Monkey Festival: 2 tons.

Number of plates served at Lopburi Monkey Buffet: 500.

Visit Lopburi Monkey Festival via this 6-minute YouTube video:

The menu of the Monkey Buffet Festival

A day before the Lopburi Monkey Festival, I accidentally stumble upon the festival headquarters. The place would be hard to miss if you were looking for it, though. Ape-themed sculpted chairs show off individuals ranging from a surprisingly lifelike chimp to one resembling the fresco of Jesus after that poor amateur restoration in Spain.

Behind the windows covered in hundreds of colorful plush toys (monkeys, what else?), there is an equally vibrant display of food. Following more naive art principles than Michelin-approved artistry, a dozen of Yongyuth’s hotel employees volunteer to arrange tomorrow’s charming buffet for the town’s most insatiable foodies.

Wibool carefully slices a wheel of watermelon into cake-like portions. With the dedication of a grandfather trying to prepare a nutritious plate for veggie-avoiding kiddos, he garnishes juicy red triangles with some bitter melon and legumes.

A spectrum of colors spills across 500 paper plates stacked over each other on wooden boards, reinforced with bricks for stability. From the yellowness of mango and corn, via the orangeness of carrot sticks and the redness of cherry tomatoes, to pink dragonfruit and purple eggplants, the palette of vitamins awaits our hungry monkey squad. Only the best for the VIPs. That stands for very important primates.

Not everything is health-magazine-approved, however. Among tamarind, longan, and pineapples, there are also colorful meringue cookies and fluorescent wafer sticks competing for attention. Even chocolate bars hanging from rainbow umbrellas sweeten up the menu of the Monkey Buffet Festival.

But what do exquisite palates of the most hooting ape critics prefer? It’s not bananas if that was your first guess.

“Their favorite fruit is durian”, Wibool confides, gesturing toward the thorny oval-shaped shells on the floor, hiding the stinky core. They will also fight over the traditional gold-colored Thai sweets, the egg yolk-based thong desserts, he reveals.

Tips for visitors: How to enjoy the Lopburi Monkey Festival safely

Attending the Lopburi Monkey Festival is a one-of-a-kind experience, but not without challenges. Here's how to enjoy the festivities in a safe way:

1. Protect your belongings.
Curious and quick, monkeys are masters of pickpocketing. They will snatch sunglasses, hats, cameras, mobile phones, and even entire bags. Keep your belongings secure (in a zipped bag), especially food and drinks. Avoid loose and dangling objects that might tempt the macaques.

2. Don't look them in the eyes.
Sometimes, monkeys can interpret your physical approach as a challenge, and a selfie stick as a weapon. They can perceive staring as a threat. Especially if you encounter an agitated macaque, avoid direct eye contact, slowly back away, and maintain a respectful distance.

3. Don't tease the monkeys.
Avoid feeding monkeys by hand or teasing them. If they feel you're withholding food or see you as a competitor, they might become aggressive. Completely avoid larger or dominant macaques. If they feel cornered, that can provoke problems. Respect their space and remember they are wild animals.

4. Stay calm.
Keep an eye out for the monkeys. They can appear out of nowhere, and even jump on your back. If they climb on you, stay still and don't panic. Sudden movements may startle them, causing them to scratch or bite. Breathe deeply and let them climb down at their leisure.

5. Maintain hygiene.
After interacting with the monkeys or touching surfaces they frequent, sanitize and wash your hands as soon as possible.

Monkey makes the world go round

Lopburi fully embraced cultural identity based on the co-existence with its playful monkey population. Next to the old Khmer Empire temples appropriated by apes, one can now see urban graffiti and murals depicting furry creatures. Monkey sculptures will be the first thing welcoming you to Lopburi’s train station, and real monkeys will be the last thing you may see before heading to bed.

I stayed at the centrally located Lopburi City Hotel, just a banana’s throw away from Phra Prang Sam Yod. Monkeys were literally hanging around my windows. This hotel, like many other city-center establishments, had to cage itself from the outside world, in order to protect both business and normal life. As I look through the bars outside my room without a view, I start getting an idea of what being in a zoo must feel like.

Check out my first neighbors in this short video!

But those monkeys scaling the city’s human cages are just a tiny fraction of the entire Lopburi monkey population. Compared to a couple of hundred monkeys at Lopburi Monkey Temple, those 2,000 jailbirds at the nursery enclosure resemble a civilization.

Just a weekend before the Lopburi Monkey Festival, 200 monkeys escaped this medium-security prison, causing a riot, and attacking even their first neighbor – the Tha Hin Police Station. Officers were forced to barricade themselves in the station, to prevent monkeys from entering and destroying property or even important evidence.

As we arrive at the enclosure on the festival morning, local firefighters, armed with tranquilizer guns and small cages, are still on the hunt for the mischievous few. The operation is successful. In the long run, Lopburi believes that neutering the monkeys can restore peace in this town.

Where to stay in Lopburi?

Location-wise, there's no better choice than the Lopburi City Hotel I chose to stay at. If you can handle barred windows, spotty wifi, and receptionists relying on Google Translate for live communication, you'll be fine with this convenient solution too. To get to the Lopburi Monkey Temple, you'll practically just need to cross the street! Check out the best prices and read reviews for this hotel here.

If you want to be fully informed about all the action and not miss a thing, then Lopburi Inn Hotel, owned by the festival's godfather, should be a great choice. Check out the best available price for your room on this link.

For more Lopburi hotels and other options of places to stay, check here.

Ape’s appetite at its extreme

After the pandemic lockdowns, monkeys felt the absence of tourists who previously fed them. Even the Lopburi Monkey Festival discontinued its fruit banquets during the Covid era.

So monkeys started robbing the locals, stealing everything from food to phones. They were damaging cars, causing accidents, and even taking over entire buildings. There were even conflicts between different groups which could only be characterized as Lopburi monkey wars.

To protect themselves from the monkey invasion, the people of Lopburi started installing metal grilles around their homes, and even “scary” toy tiger heads in shops. The desperate ones put their properties up for sale.

A stroll through the town in post-pandemic years became unimaginable without carrying a slingshot, a stick, or at least a pellet gun.

A photograph made by Joan de la Malla, depicting a schoolgirl defending her bag of beverages from a little monkey with a toy gun, went viral. It was even handed over to Prime Minister Srettha Thavisin at the opening of the 2024 King Narai Reign Fair in Lopburi, seeking urgent action.

An unprecedented monkey crackdown followed, with a massive sterilization at Lopburi Monkey Hospital. Because, yes, a town with so many monkeys had to establish even a dedicated hospital, adjoined to the Lopburi Zoo.

Lopburi Municipality Animal Shelter is nowadays the new home for most of them, some 2.5 kilometers away from Phra Prang Sam Yod, the monkey temple they once ruled.

Treating monkeys like kings clearly had dangerous consequences. But the tradition of the Lopburi Monkey Festival continues.

As he proudly shows his daughter’s painting depicting the monkey buffet, I ask Wibool if he has support from his family for this monkey business.

“My wife is a mathematics teacher”, the art professor says. “So no, she is not so happy. She is more into logic.”

Feeding wildlife can change their behavior. Check out what happened with deer in Nara Deer Park, Japan!

Meals on Wheels – Grab Food for monkeys

In Lopburi, the love for monkeys is a delicate balancing act – feeding them is a coin with two sides. It echoes what was seen in places like Bali: regular human feeding made macaques in Ubud Monkey Forest far more aggressive than, for instance, their wilder counterparts in West Bali National Park, where such interaction is forbidden. Feeding the macaques is what makes them dependent on us, and even fuels the potential for incidents.

This complexity doesn’t deter Sumalee Srichomphoo from stepping up. The woman who adopted eight cats, and even one goose, found a mission in caring for the wild animals of Lopburi too. For the past twelve years, she’s embraced a peculiar daily routine.

Her day starts at 4 a.m. She hops on her motorbike, and heads to the local fresh market. There, she strolls through the stalls and collects discarded fruit and vegetables from vendors, piling them into large baskets, all before dawn. The kind-hearted monks at Wat Sao Thong Thong allow her to store this treasure trove of produce until the afternoon.

At 3 p.m., Sumalee returns to make the delivery run of her early-morning catch. The destination is Phra Prang Sam Yot, where the Lopburi version of Grab Food starts.

In the backyard of their temple, monkeys experience the all-you-can-eat buffet on a daily basis. They don’t need to wait for the annual Lopburi Monkey Festival to experience the joys of human catering.

Every Sunday, Sumalee joins the monks and brings the weekly supply of food to the monkeys in the Enclosure too.

She might even buy candies in the store and, with a contagious laugh, spread them among the voracious gang.

It might feel like adding fuel to the fire, but on the other hand, this daily sacrifice is what keeps the truce with the monkeys alive.

See Sumalee’s feeding routine featured in our Pipeaway Walks series!

How to reach Lopburi?

Getting to Lopburi is a breeze, with various convenient transport options connecting the city to Bangkok and beyond. Here are the best ways to reach Lopburi:

1. By train
The train is the scenic, affordable way to travel to Lopburi. Trains to Lopburi depart from Bangkok's Krung Thep Aphiwat Central Terminal (stopping at Don Mueang and Ayutthaya among others, too). The journey takes about 2 hours and brings you to Lopburi Railway Station, located near key attractions like Phra Prang Sam Yod.

Personally, I traveled to Lopburi from Ayutthaya, by an ordinary train that had only the 3rd class seats. The ride was 70 minutes long and cost just 13 baht (36 cents). A rapid train that takes just under an hour would cost 20 baht in the same class, or 60 baht in the second class. For those in a hurry, there is also a special express train with 2nd class seats in the morning - it cuts the journey time to 33 minutes but raises the price to 260 baht.

If you want to book your train ticket online (advance booking is strongly recommended when traveling in high season), do it here.

2. By bus or minivan
Buses and minivans are more frequent than trains. Their departure point in Bangkok is the Mochit Bus Terminal (Northern Bus Terminal).

Minivans and buses to Lopburi leave regularly, practically every half an hour. Travel time from Bangkok to Lopburi should be between 2.5 and 3 hours, depending on traffic.

A one-way trip typically costs at least 300 baht.

Explore your options on this site.

3. By car or taxi
Driving to Lopburi offers flexibility and convenience, especially for groups or those with lots of luggage.

The journey via the Highway 1 is up to 200 kilometers and takes approximately 3 hours.

Car rental is available at Bangkok airport and city centers, with rates starting at around 3,500 baht per day. Easily compare prices and options on this link!

A taxi or a private driver will cost about 3.000-4.500 baht for a one-way trip. A well-rated choice is this return trip for 3.800 baht (105 euros).

4. By tour package
For a hassle-free experience, you can book a Lopburi day trip from Bangkok. A package that includes transportation, a licensed English-speaking tour guide, and a visit to the historical temples of Ayutthaya, is available for 53 euros per person. Check it out!

Lopburi Monkey Festival – Conclusion

With the luxury of having personal butlers and the energy provided by endless buffets (complete with desserts and even soda drinks – a perfect fuel for the sugar rush), monkeys in Lopburi had stimulating conditions for a population boom.

But with a soaring population and food stocks staying the same, Pandora’s box opened up during the pandemic, bringing macabre macaque nightmares to Lopburi.

The Monkey Town, a place that tried to celebrate their furrier inhabitants, now had to encage them. Environmentalist organizations are not happy with the controversial solution of the Enclosure. They see it more as a confinement than a coexistence. But at the moment, the alternative is – problems.

Monkeys should definitely not be left to die of hunger. But Lopburi owes its macaques more than just survival 

The Lopburi Monkey Festival remains a celebration of culture, history, and harmony between humans and animals. But it also contributed to the issues monkeys are experiencing today. What began as a gesture of gratitude has grown into a cautionary tale about balance.

Sterilization programs may eventually reduce Lopburi’s monkey population in the following years. But that also means that most of these newcomers to the so-called monkey paradise of Lopburi will have to spend a lifetime – behind bars.

The responsible thing to do is definitely not to let them die of hunger. But Lopburi owes its monkey citizens more than just survival; it owes them dignity. The solution cannot be to choose who should spend their life behind bars, humans or monkeys. Both species call Lopburi home. Monkeys were around when it was still a jungle.

So Lopburi should make the living conditions of the encaged monkeys much better than they currently are. This is how responsibility in hospitality works. The one who prepares the feast often ends up doing the dishes.

What’s your take on celebrating animals in festivals like the Lopburi Monkey Festival?
Leave your comment below and pin the article for later!

Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links, meaning if you click on them and make a purchase, Pipeaway may make a small commission, at no additional cost to you. Thank you for supporting our work!

The post Lopburi Monkey Festival: Lavish Banquet for 2,000 Gluttonous Macaques appeared first on Pipeaway.

An October dawn spills over the Jor Soo Gong Naka Shrine in Phuket, bathing the gathered crowds in soft light. A barely teenage boy stands still while a father-figure man attaches a flower garland around his wrist. He’s not going to school today but for a barefoot walk down the streets of his hometown. It’s Jia Chai, Tesagan Gin Je, or simply Jay – Phuket’s annual self-mutilation festival.

Self-mutilation is a spectacle. Because there are – spectators. A forest of selfie sticks grows around the garden of piercing rods

The man’s gloved hands fumble with a stubborn piece of string poking delicate petals. The boy’s face was much less resistant than that of a flower. Two metal skewers pierced his cheeks easily, like a marshmallow. No blood in sight.

Over six dozen ma song spirit mediums show up for the first of more than 30 street processions scheduled during the nine-day Phuket Vegetarian Festival. These men, women, and children are believed to embody the Nine Emperor Gods, celestial Star Lords who, according to Taoism, preside over planetary movements, and matters of life and death.

In a trance-like state, the possessed hosts feel no pain. Numbed down, many undergo an extreme piercing ritual that would make holes in their cheeks, tongues, or body, to provide space for needles, spikes, swords, and even quirky objects.

Self-mutilation is a spectacle. Because there are – spectators. Besides the closest relatives and friends supporting their ma song in this intense ritual, tourists fill up the tiny shrine yard. A forest of selfie sticks grows around the garden of piercing rods, fighting for the same space.

One usually has to be a medicine student to come so close to open wounds. But here, the anatomy lesson is free. Human meat attracts observers like exposed skin does with mosquitos. Once a year, the Jor Soo Gong Naka Shrine becomes a natural habitat for exhibition and voyeurism.

Blades of devotion

As the first procession on the festival roster, the Jor Soo Gong Naka Shrine doesn’t just draw amateurs with smartphones – it’s a magnet for professional photographers. The perfect shot could capture global headlines, but it comes at the cost of many clicks and jostling elbows.

This year’s star turns out to be Sirinnicha Thampradit, a 29-year-old woman calmly sitting on a yellow plastic chair, using her hands to support three swords slicing through her right cheek. She started collecting scars also as a teenager, experiencing her first possession when she was 17.

“My god has chosen me and I sacrifice my body to him once a year. I am so proud”, Sirinicha tells an AFP reporter later.

“I didn’t feel any pain during the piercing”, she reveals, surrounded with paper tissues soaked in blood. “Even if it did hurt, I could tolerate it without medication or going to the doctor.”

Just in case, an ambulance is parked at the entrance of Jor Soo Gong Naka Shrine. But the staff mainly reminds visitors like me that wearing a cap prevents heatstroke. One paramedic discretely slips a yellow-and-red plastic cap, graciously provided by the Wai Wai noodle soup brand, into my hands.

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Influencers stealing the spotlight

As for Sirinicha, her wounds should heal within a week. She credits her unwavering faith for protecting her and other ma songs in her family. Maybe from pain. But not from pain in the ass, also known as travel influencers. Here, the divine shield seems powerless.

Adam from The Country Collectors crouches to steal a selfie with her, without even the courtesy of saying ‘hello’.

His mouth and eyes go cartoonishly wide, his eyebrows arched in performative disbelief – a demonstration of manufactured shock.

Dissatisfied with the outcome of the shot, he waves to a random bystander.

“Can you take a photo of me?”, he asks.

Of me. Not – of us. Sirinicha is here reduced to a decorative backdrop. Her consent is presumed, much like that of the chair she is sitting on. She can’t speak with her mouth full, though.

After Adam, who would later publish a YouTube video, with a thumbnail title screaming “I WAS SHOCKED”, another instamodel swoops in to borrow his minutes of fame too.

The Origins of Jor Soo Gong Naka Shrine
Jor Soo Gong Naka Shrine is known through a variation of spellings. Google Maps prefers Jor Soo Kong Naka Shrine. Other online sources may sometimes call it Choor Su Gong, Jchoor Su Gong, Jor Soo Gong, or Jo Su Gong.

If that's not enough variety, the temple dedicated to the Taoist deity Chor Soo Kong has more aliases: Naka Tao Bo Geng, or Hun Jong Aaam / Hun Jong Arm Shrine, translated as Cloudy Sky Monastery.



The shrine in the Wichit Sub-district of Mueang, back then just a modest thatched-roof structure, was built in 2499 of the Buddhist Era (1956 in the Gregorian calendar). Its original purpose was to enshrine the sacred objects brought to Phuket by Hokkien Chinese settlers, who arrived to work in the island's thriving tin mines.

Thanks to the donations of the devotees, the shrine went through several expansions. The most recent major renovation was completed in 2566 (2013 in Common Era). Today, it's a bright yellow building with a traditional roof and four pillars hugged by green dragons.

By positioning its yew keng procession as the grand opening act of the Phuket Vegetarian Festival, even if relatively small, Jor Soo Gong Naka Shrine managed to become a central point of Taoist spiritual practices in Phuket, attracting significant interest from not only local crowds.

The divine descent in focus

To hunt the “best” shots of the Jay piercing ritual, one must arrive early at the Jor Soo Gong Naka Shrine. The march through the town officially starts at 7:30 a.m., but devotees gather as early as 6 a.m.

The crowd sits quietly, dressed in all-white or light purple, with imprints of Chinese gods on their shirts. Teenage boys puff on e-cigarettes as they decorate deity sedan chairs they would be carrying – with long red firecracker rolls. Cars are numbered in the back, prepped to carry god icons on their roofs.

Photographers, some with tattoos and body modifications, have the heaviest load – with backpacks, telephoto lenses, and action cameras strapped to various parts of their bodies. With one pair of hands, only multitasking secures both pro photos as well as videos for socials. The most prepared ones wield long rods crowned with 360 cameras, so they can fish for footage over each other.

In this atmosphere of anticipation, a commotion unfolds at the shrine’s altar adorned with small statues. When a drumbeat breaks the murmur of the crowd, the ritual begins. Between green dragons wrapping around the shrine pillars, a man shows up kneeling, then raising incense sticks toward the sky.

Soon, more men exit the shrine. Now in their bright yellow and black aprons, with whips around their necks and black flags in their hands, they stand out from the all-white crowd.

These are ma songs, regular shrine followers in a changed state of mind. The gods had entered them, and now their heads shake left and right. With cramped jaws, they descend among the mortals.

One of them gesticulates his discontent with a messy pile of shoes left near the golden lion statues. “Clean it up!”, as if he demands. Someone readily obliges.

Holy holes

There is a pop-up “waiting room” in Jor Soo Gong Naka Shrine’s yard. As in some religious version of musical chairs, these plastic seats move around according to the available space. And new ma songs, possessed by divine entities, get to sit in them, willingly submitting themselves to mutilation.

For piercings larger than standard needles, a prop circulating around the most is a shiny cone-shaped tool. While a helper steadies the ma song’s head, the piercer inserts fingers into the mouth, to “feel” the spot. With a determined push, the stainless-steel cone drives into the cheek, expanding the hole to the right size. The cone is then removed, and replaced with rods, swords, sickles, hooks, roses, sun umbrellas, or basically any creative find from a local hardware store.

One devotee has a particularly heavy load to carry. His leg jerks rhythmically as the cone pokes holes, under the watchful eyes of phone cameras. After puncturing one cheek, the piercer continues pushing the sharp tip through the mouth, forcing itself through the other cheek too. The ma song vocalizes the discomfort, saving his face from resembling the Swiss cheese even more.

The mutilation process appears excruciating, but those involved claim to feel no pain when gods take over. Yet, as we peer through the lens of the camera, the sweat beading on their foreheads is hard to ignore. When a female ma song finally gets her piercings in place, her face glistens in a peculiar shine of smeared lipstick and tears.

Self-mutilation is difficult to watch, but perhaps even harder to look away from. Smartphones and cameras make sure our uncomfortable gazes stay glued to the scene.

To witness the dramatic piercing rituals and street procession from Jor Soo Gong Naka Shrine, see this short YouTube video (viewer discretion is advised)!

When did self-harm first start?
Self-mutilation rituals are far from a modern phenomenon.

In Phuket, these traditions have developed over the centuries. While they are seen as acts of resilience and devotion, they also serve a larger purpose: helping devotees channel their gods to protect the community.

However, self-sacrifice for the community has a complex history that spans many cultures and beliefs, and has roots in ancient rituals.

In early tribal societies, self-inflicted wounds were often symbolic rites of passage, marking the transition into adulthood or preparing individuals for spiritual roles.

In some Native American tribes, young men took part in a multi-day Sun Dance, an enduring ritual that involved piercing the skin. Similarly, the Aztecs practiced piercing as a form of self-sacrifice, offering the gift of precious blood to their gods.

Self-mutilation appears in the Bible as well. In the Old Testament, the prophet Elijah encounters prophets of Baal who cut themselves with swords to invoke their god (1 Kings 18:28). But Christianity also connects martyrdom with faith, from medieval art showing Saint Sebastian riddled with arrows to modern reenactments of Easter crucifixion at Maleldo Festival in the Philippines.

Certain branches of Shia Islam practice self-flagellation (tatbir) during Ashura, a collective mourning over the martyrdom of Hussein, the grandson of the Prophet Muhammad.

In Malaysia, Hindus participate in the Thaipusam Festival at places like Batu Caves or Penang Island, where believers pierce themselves as an act of devotion to Lord Murugan, the god of war.

Beyond acts of religious zeal, self-mutilation has also found a place in contemporary performance. Many artists, from Marina Abramović to sideshow performers such as Zamora the Torture King and Norwegian Pain Solution, used self-harm to provoke intense reactions of discomfort and explore the boundaries of pain.

Trick or treat

For ma songs, cheek piercing is not mandatory. At Jor Soo Gong Naka Shrine, some of the possessed devotees have needles with tassels or figurine heads perforating their arms’ skin. One has a spiked morning star mace holing his tongue.

Then there’s a man with the axe, blood dripping from his mouth. Occasionally, he slides the razor-sharp edge across his tongue.

There are definitely elements of shock performance. One ma song removes a grape from the tip of his cheek-piercing skewer and hands it to a kiddo who bursts into tears. Everyone else laughs.

Even when they are offered just candies, children are not sure how to react in this bizarre version of “trick or treat”. Seeing a self-mutilation festival up close definitely shocks many of them.

Technically mind-absent, some ma songs are still very aware of the nature of the attention they are getting. They stop to take photographs with fans. When they just see a lone lens, they may slow down their walking pace, suddenly roll their eyes back, or completely freeze in a hero pose with a lifted leg, and a connected thumb and middle finger.

Ma songs’ escort enjoys the cameras’ attention too. Proud of their procession representative, the members of the entourage also strike a pose, if they are not already reporting live via their own phones.

Even the traffic police, who temporarily divert cars from the procession’s path, make their own documentation. One officer multitasks with two recording devices – a 360 camera, and a smartphone.

From blessings to burns

At makeshift altars, set up by local families and businesses, the ma songs may pause, taking fruit from the offerings, giving it a ritualistic twirl around an incense stick, and then presenting it to someone (that’s how I scored a dragonfruit for breakfast myself!). But besides giving the goods, they also take away the bad. That could be in the form of a fruit too, or some pyrotechnics.

Being a ma song is not easy. Sugar-high children wait for their candy. Kneeling adults crave their blessings. Young adults want to throw firecrackers under their feet, testing the miraculous painproofness in Doubting-Thomas style.

As they walk barefoot through the tropical heat, ma song’s naked soles rub the burning asphalt, as well as bravely face those mini explosions.

Only occasionally, the supportive followers sprinkle their feet with water. Sometimes, an airflow bounces off of the waved flag, barely brushing over ma song’s skin.

Their companions may wipe away sweat from their faces, or blood from their open wounds. Red-stained paper towels are casually discarded right there, on the floor. The cleanup squads wait at the sidelines, ready to return the firecracker-polluted streets of Phuket to their original state, as soon as the parade is over.

Just like roads, during the nine days of the Phuket Vegetarian Festival, people undergo a temporary transformation too. Devoted meat-eaters might try a vegetarian diet. But as soon as the festival shuts down, they’ll probably return to the old eating habits. Ma songs will also be just regular Phuket citizens again, with only scars to mark their close encounter with the Nine Emperor Gods.

Self-Mutilation Festival at Jor Soo Gong Naka Shrine – Conclusion

During the Phuket Vegetarian Festival, Jor Soo Gong Naka Shrine hosts one of the most intense and mesmerizing displays of faith in the world. Encountering ma songs, seemingly immune to pain, may be overwhelming for first-time visitors. But it’s about more than shock value.

With hundreds of tourists snapping photos and filming from inches away, these rituals become entangled with a sense of voyeurism

While the thought of piercing skin and enduring physical pain may make many shudder, for devotees, these self-mortification acts are about purification. During the event, devotees become vessels for divine energy, in a process they consider sacred.

For ma song, self-mutilation may be a deeply personal trial. Yet, with hundreds of tourists crowded around, snapping photos and filming from inches away, these rituals become entangled with a sense of voyeurism. The line between private devotion and public spectacle blurs.

Visitors often stand transfixed, both drawn in and repelled by the extreme sights. In one way, they are seeking a visceral connection to an experience that feels raw and unfiltered, yet they’re also consuming it as a performance – moving from one dramatic ritual to the next.

The theatrical display is magnetic, almost impossible for onlookers to ignore, no matter how far removed they are from its cultural or religious significance.

With crowds pressing closer, eager to capture each moment on camera, the outsiders become, in some sense, participants, creating a cultural artifact of the event. With respect toward Phuket’s acts of faith, this sometimes intrusive documentation might feed global curiosity, as well as preserve the tradition.

Where to stay near Jor Soo Gong Naka Shrine?

If you are planning to visit the Phuket Vegetarian Festival and attend the procession from Jor Soo Gong Naka Shrine, I highly recommend making your base in the Old Town. It is much more vibrant and interesting than the shrine’s immediate neighborhood.

The Elements Boutique House

A great accommodation choice right in the heart of the Old Town, on Soi Soon Utis Street, is The Elements Boutique House, a property inspired by Phuket’s Chino-European shophouse architecture. From wooden double doors and arched windows to chim jae-style inner court (typical part of long and narrow houses, where an area opens from floor to ceiling to let air and light in), it’s an impressively functional and pleasant 2023 renovation of a former garage house.

Out of four rooms, I stayed in Aqua (others naturally named Earth, Air, and Fire). All rooms have different styles, ranging from Japanese minimalism to modern decor. My quite large sanctuary (40 square meters!) came in classic style with wooden furniture and blue walls.

Besides a comfortable king-size bed, there was also a bay window seat looking out at a quiet, dead-end alley (with all the pyrotechnics the Phuket Vegetarian Festival is known for, you will appreciate the fact that this area is mainly used by neighbors). Another skylight roof brings more light to a freestanding bathtub, while the toilet and shower room come separately.

With quite cool four showerheads and a glass wall that echoes the sounds of Japanese onsen, picking between soaking in a tub and using a standing shower with plant-based formula toiletries, is a hard choice.

Check out The Elements Boutique House in this short YouTube video!

 

Double basin and double working desks make the Aqua room a fantastic choice for couples. But I had no complaints about enjoying the place all by myself. Plus, I got an extra si tao sor, a welcome cookie connecting the guesthouse with Chinese-Thai heritage!

Depending on the dates, rooms at The Elements Boutique House start at around 2,300 baht (around 60 euros) per night. Check out the current rates for your chosen dates on Booking or Agoda!

Aekkeko Hostel

If you are looking into budget options in Phuket Town, I can recommend Aekkeko Hostel on Krabi Road.

Hidden behind a bookstore, the hostel starts with a lounge area that has a few cool resting places, such as a hanging chair, or a net stretched on the first floor.

The mixed dormitory fits eight people, with curtained-off beds, and always-on AC, unlike the common areas where you will have to handle fans.

Still, with free access to water and a shared kitchen, this reasonably priced hostel is a great choice for backpackers visiting the Phuket Vegetarian Festival.

If you’re prepared to walk like me, Jor Soo Gong Naka Shrine is 50 minutes away. Otherwise, there is always Grab!

A bed in the Aekkeko Hostel dormitory costs 340 baht (9 euros), while private rooms start at 980 baht (27 euros) per night. Find the exact prices for your dates on Booking, Agoda, or Hostelworld. 

More accommodation options

If you insist on staying in the vicinity of Jor Soo Gong Naka Shrine, which would be more gentle for your morning wake-up, there are several options within a 500-meter radius. Check out the 4-star hotels with outdoor swimming pools, such as Recenta Phuket Suanluang and Little Nyonja Hotel, or pick a decent 3-star Leelawadee Naka!

Where to eat nearby?

After following the Jor Soo Gong Naka Shrine procession, you’ll likely need to fuel up. Luckily, there are plenty of delicious meals near the proposed accommodations that are worth trying.

During the Jae Festival, plant-based meals are readily available on nearly every corner. Learn everything you should know about vegetarian food in Phuket! 

Kopitiam by Wilai

If you want to try Phuket-style Baba-Nyonya (Peranakan Chinese) food, an authentic place to do so is an old-school restaurant on popular Talang Road – Kopitiam by Wilai.

They offer a variety of local dishes, but one standout is their Panang curry, a thick red Thai curry with a mixture of red chili paste, fresh Thai herbs, and dry spices in coconut cream. Popular versions of this dish include chicken or beef, but during the Phuket Vegetarian Festival, that won’t be on the menu. The vegetarian Panang curry is still quite flavorful.

Pair it with a refreshing drink as, even in the mild version for Westerner palates, the dish still packs a punch in terms of spices.

A portion of Panang curry with rice at Kopitiam by Wilai cost me 150 baht (4 euros), and a Coke adds another 35 baht (1 euro) to the bill. 

A Pong Mae Sunee

Just at the entrance to Soi Soon Utis, the street leading to The Elements Boutique House, A Pong Mae Sunee is a food stall that often has a long queue of customers. They make khanom a pong – simple, but quite special coconut crepes in six miniature woks simultaneously heated over charcoal.

Observing the couple at work is pleasurable, but their lightly sweetened crispy pancakes with a soft center are an even more delicious reward. It didn’t come as a surprise that this food stall’s snacks earned a Michelin Bib Gourmand recognition.

See the A Pong Mae Sunee couple making these famous pancakes in this YouTube short! 

One rolled crepe at A Pong Mae Sunee costs 5 baht, but a pack of six is 25 baht (barely 70 cents). I haven't seen anyone taking only one. 

What are your thoughts on the self-mutilation festival at Jor Soo Gong Naka Shrine in Phuket?
Leave your comment below and pin the article for later!

 

Disclosure: My stay at The Elements Boutique House was complimentary, but all opinions are my own.

Also, this post may contain affiliate links, meaning if you click on them and make a purchase, Pipeaway may make a small commission, at no additional cost to you. Thank you for supporting our work!

The post Self Mutilation Festival: Exhibition Meets Voyeurism at Phuket’s Jor Soo Gong Naka Shrine appeared first on Pipeaway.

Meatarians insisting on finding a steak during the Phuket Vegetarian Festival exercise a much stricter diet than local vegetarians

As I was munching on quite a delicious vegetarian Pad Thai, I had no objections against the Jae / Jay Festival‘s effects on Phuket’s food offer. I was more surprised by the disappointment seen in the perplexed eyes of the tourists who couldn’t consume their desired meat protein. Rather than taking a dive into something new, they preferred roaming the streets and hoping to get luckier at the next eatery.

Yes, a strict vegetarian diet is a cornerstone of the Phuket Vegetarian Festival. Still, nothing is stricter than the conviction of those meatarians insisting on finding a steak in what clearly becomes a veggie town in those October days.

Nobody should stay hungry during the Jay Festival, however. Phuket roads, especially those leading to temples, are lined with stalls offering delicious food. This rich Phuket Vegetarian Festival buffet almost makes you wonder whether abstinence (manifested in avoiding sex and alcohol too) is truly the main prerequisite for purification. All those colors, scents, and flavors invite you to – indulge!

While many meat-centric restaurants and shops close their doors or turn vegan for a week, Jae is not a festival of starvation. Temples actually feed anyone who is hungry free of charge, while eating out in Phuket, often for just a dollar or two, becomes an exciting culinary adventure.

Learn everything you need to know about Phuket Vegetarian Festival food!

Going vegan is one of the great ways to reduce your carbon footprint when traveling. 

Phuket Vegetarian Festival origin – from malaria to miracles

Today better known for its jaw-dropping rituals – think cheek-piercing processions and fire-walking ceremonies – Phuket Vegetarian Festival is an annual period for purification. In Taoist belief, those nine days in the ninth lunar month of the Chinese calendar (usually between September and October) are also known as the Nine Emperor Gods Festival, remembering a divine intervention from the early 19th century.

Phuket Vegetarian Festival originated when a traveling troupe of opera performers visiting Phuket from China‘s Fujian province fell ill with malaria (or cholera?) in 1825. Traditional medicine failed to help, so in a desperate attempt to regain their health, they adopted a vegetarian diet and performed various rituals and cleansing ceremonies to honor the pantheon of Nine Emperor Gods. Miraculously, they recovered and, since then, the locals have celebrated this “vegetarian miracle”, expanding it into a significant annual festival.

An alternative theory links the Phuket Vegetarian Festival’s origins to the Taiping Rebellion (1850-1864). The leaders of the Chinese who united to resist the Manchu-led Qing dynasty were killed, together with millions of others. Vegetarianism was supposedly introduced out of mourning for those who lost their lives.

Whenever Phuket Vegetarian Festival history really started, these customs have been passed down through generations of Chinese descendants in Southeast Asia, blending with local beliefs.

Today’s devotees, both Thai and Chinese, follow a strict set of rules for nine days, saying no to meat, alcohol, cigarettes, drugs, sex, profanities, lies, and other impurities. Besides dairy, eggs, and fish sauce, even certain types of pungent veggies, such as onion, garlic, leek, scallions, and chives, are on the banned list. Consuming chocolate and fizzy drinks is discouraged. Participants also adhere to wearing all-white clothing as a symbol of purity. These acts are believed to bring good health, prosperity, and spiritual peace to the community.

Thaipusam in Malaysia has a similar set of rules where devotees eat vegetarian food once a day for 48 days. Learn more about the Hindu piercing festival. 

Vegetarian food stalls in Phuket

For visitors, the abundant plant-based meals are the highlight of the Phuket Vegetarian Festival. Hundreds of vegetarian food stalls spring up near the Chinese temples.

Probably the best street food in Phuket is served on Ranong Road, a section between Ranong Main Market and Jui Tui Shrine. Here, between 3 p.m. and midnight, the cars passing through are replaced with foot traffic, a hungry swarm of festival-goers navigating two lengthy rows of food stalls, each competing to win their taste buds.

Feel the atmosphere of the Phuket Vegetarian Festival street food market in our new YouTube series of uninterrupted Pipeaway Walks:

Phuket Vegetarian Festival street food market is occasionally interrupted by vendors offering flashy dragon toys and helium-filled balloons, leather purses, pyrotechnics, and cheap clothes (all white and light purple: temple-ready shirts and skirts for 100 baht, shorts for 50, trousers for 150). But the majority of goods traded are various meatless bites.

Food is normally eaten on the go. For my first try, I stop at a stall with plastic tables and chairs, a little al fresco pop-up restaurant. My plastic bowl is packed with noodles, veggies, mushrooms, crackers, and non-animal proteins. All quite delicious, and Thai-level spicy. Am I not glad I always carry my water bottle with me?

As I eat, it’s interesting to observe the well-oiled routine of this family operation. Everyone plays a role, from welcoming guests to a table, via flipping noodles and loading the garnishes, to washing the dishes (even here, in the street, someone has to do it).

My “lost in translation” lesson arrives when it’s time to pay. That big red “เจ” written on the yellow banner (not only on this stall) is not the price. I assume the lettering reads 17 baht. It does not. The 2-character sign is not even a number; it actually stands for – Jay (vegan). My noodles set me back 60 baht, still less than 2 dollars.

Do you want to learn how to cook vegetarian food Phuket-way? Join this well-rated vegetarian Thai cooking class!

Phuket Vegetarian Festival food menu

It’s hard to define the staple food of the Phuket Vegetarian Festival, as there are so many options to choose from. My eyes went wide at tom yum-flavored scones, taro-filled steamed buns, deep-fried corn, crispy vegetarian pork or squid, wonton dumplings stuffed with water chestnut, and a myriad of fried noodles and fake sushi rolls.

All sorts of skewers wait for you to pick them and throw on the barbecue, while a long line of patient customers seems to be a standard in front of the stall specialized in grilling king oyster mushrooms.

One vendor juggles a basket of French fries in one hand, a mic in the other, enthusiastically promoting them over the loudspeaker. The competition for your appetite is fierce.

From Korean gimmari rolls and Indian panipuri to Vietnamese savory crepes, from Chinese zongzi to Thai donuts, Phuket Vegetarian Festival is a whirlwind journey through the tastes of Asia.

Corn dogs and pastries shaped like dogs are here literally steps away. Well, as long as you don’t get diverted by a collection of socks or sunglasses for your puppy.

The sweet side of the Phuket Vegetarian Festival buffet

Croissants will range from puffy to flat. Ice creams from soft to hard.

But to sweeten up my first-night experience at Phuket Vegetarian Festival, I try to avoid desserts with a Western world aura. Instead, I buy khao lam, sticky rice cooked in bamboo tubes, with coconut milk and black beans. Price? Just 30 baht.

Most prices here are a comfortable two digits, with the exception of grapes: a bunch is priced at 170 baht. You can save if you opt for a skewer, with exactly five grapes on it – that will be 35 baht!

Your skewer can also pierce strawberries, or mixed fruit jelly balls. If you like it Japanese-style, you can get your berries (or kiwi) combined with creme-fraiche in those triangle sandwiches, or wrapped in pillowy daifuku. For more kawaii creations, stuff your bag with luk chup, cute bite-sized fruits made of mung beans.

If you just like it raw, opt for sliced fruit. This is a great opportunity to even try durian, a smelly fruit that will typically invoke a heavy fine if you bring it to your hotel or hostel.

Beyond classics such as mango sticky rice or coconut pancakes (“Yummy, yummy”, endorses them their energetic baker), you can get your fruit-sourced vitamins in fresh juices covering all sweet bases – longan, guava, watermelon, sugarcane, and, of course, coconut water.

You can also cool off with an iced milk tea, a virgin mojito (remember, no alcohol!), a Coke slushy, or a healthier – bean smoothie. If you want to go eccentric, try craft cocoa with a hint of mint, or a butterfly pea juice – with glitter.

When in Chiang Mai, make sure to visit the upscale street food offerings at Nimman night markets!

Dining beyond the festival stalls – Vegetarian restaurants in Phuket

Beyond ubiquitous street food during the Phuket Vegetarian Festival, the town also has a surprising lineup of plant-based restaurants that operate year-round.

If you’re looking for a sit-down experience of vegetarian food in Phuket, you’ll find plenty of options that are, in fact, almost entirely vegan.

The highest density of vegetarian restaurants in Phuket is again on Ranong Road, close to Jui Tui Shrine. You might not see them easily during the festival, as they get overshadowed by food stalls placed in front of them, but they are certainly there!

Right at the corner with Soi Phutorn, I treat myself to a lovely meal at Luk To Vegetarian, for only 70 baht. I take rice with two vegetable add-ons (30), add a faux fish (10), and then three more sides from the fried section (tofu, veggies, and spring roll, 10 baht each). There is a language barrier here, but we managed to compose two plates that fill up my stomach. Water is free.

Phuket vegan restaurants offering a similar buffet of mock meats and veggies continue eastwards (Jia Chai Vegetarian Restaurant, Vegan Station, Ruamjai Vegan Restaurant, Hesan Vegetarian). As I pass by, they seem to be under renovation, with a humble food display, or finished for the day. Picking Luk To Vegetarian was a no-brainer.

Another solid, budget-friendly choice is Nong ‘J Vegetarian Restaurant on Patiphat Road. Here, for under 100 baht, you get an all-star cast of curries and mock meats: chicken, duck, pork, and even catfish. The setup might be simple (metal tables and fans), but with hundreds of five-star reviews, it’s clear this family-run gem knows how to wow a crowd.

If you’re looking into fancier vegetarian restaurants in Phuket, venture farther east. After the Suriyadey Circle roundabout, Ranong Road becomes Ratsada Road, and at the end, there is The Vegan Table. Here, you’ll find Beyond burgers, falafel wraps, vegan pizza and pasta, and even the vegan English breakfast. There are also drool-worthy cheesecakes and chocolate tarts, but prepare to pay more.

Even further east, via Phangnga Road, Ubuntu EAT awaits. This Indian vegan cafe opened just this year, but it already attracts raving fans. Beyond just a selection of masala (from chycken to fysh and sawsage), they also offer Thai and Lebanese options, kebab, biryani, salad and smoothie bowls. Expect to pay between 200 and 300 baht per person.

Food apps in Phuket

If you’d rather enjoy your veggie feast in your cozy accommodation (or any address in Phuket of your choice), you’re in luck. Phuket’s food delivery game is strong – there are simple, fast, and reliable services that can bring food to your doorstep. The delivery is often free, plus you can score a discount or a promotion.

The most popular food apps in Phuket are Foodpanda, GrabFood, Weserve, Lineman, and Aroi Dee. Most often, they present their menus in both Thai and English, so you won’t accidentally order spicy squid on a no-meat day. You can pay with cash or credit cards.

Conclusion: Celebrating Phuket Vegetarian Festival through food

As you meander through the bustling Phuket street food market, the squeaky chicken in the hands of a lady selling a variety of fun gimmicks is the only animal you’ll hear crying. In The Land of Smiles, walking through this vegetarian food paradise testifies that, for truly gastronomic hospitality, no animal has to hurt.

Phuket Vegetarian Festival transcends the boundaries of food and dives deep into the spiritual traditions of the local Chinese community

If you want to taste what Phuket is all about, visiting the town during the Phuket Vegetarian Festival will give you a solid overview. More than just a family event with culinary delights, this celebration carries the weight of Thailand’s rich cultural heritage.

Sure, any food lover would enjoy indulging in everything from savory street snacks to hearty vegan meals and delicate desserts. These will all captivate and delight the senses.

But Phuket Vegetarian Festival transcends the boundaries of food and dives deep into the spiritual traditions of the local Chinese community. These authentic and complex traditions remind us that our outputs relate to our inputs. We are what we consume.

Whether you’re a committed vegetarian or just a curious foodie, the Phuket Vegetarian Festival will take you on a truly immersive and unforgettable culinary journey. If you’re open to different interpretations, maybe cleansing your habits once in a while can even bring a blessing.

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Overstaying your visa in Thailand can lead to fines, detention, deportation, and even bans from reentering the country

Everyone knows, 60 days and two months are not the same (especially when one of those months is not February in a leap year). October has 31 days, so my privilege of staying in Thailand visa-free was actually expiring two days before my purchased flight.

Knowing that I bought this ticket mainly so I could show my intentions for exiting the country if asked by Thai immigration, makes the thing even more silly. Now, I was actually lucky that the officer in training who welcomed me at Phuket Airport didn’t ask for proof of exit. As, if they did, I wouldn’t be able to present one – my flight ticket to the Philippines was only proof that I didn’t plan to leave on time.

As I gazed dully at my passport, learning that my 60-day visa exemption runs out on November 30^th brought sinking feelings. Facing this eye-opener stamp, I was hitting my head and questioning my intelligence. Now, I’m stuck in the “what do I do?” zone regarding my Thailand visa overstay.

Overstaying your visa in Thailand can lead to fines, detention, deportation, and even bans from reentering the country. To avoid entering panic mode, I immediately started considering – and possibly overthinking – my options.

Comfort yourself: there are worse things than miscounting your travel days. Like some less fortunate travelers, you could have made an entire destination mix-up!

Visa Overstay in Thailand – What to do?

Option 1: The 30-Day Visa Extension (a.k.a. Extending My Stay Just for Two Extra Days)

Cost: 1,900 THB (~€53)

Process: Easy-peasy. Just head to the nearest immigration office, fill out a TM.7 form, a passport-sized photo, and pay the fee. You’ll get 30 more days in Thailand.

Where: Immigration offices can be found in Phuket, Krabi, Pattaya, Chiang Mai, Bangkok, and other tourist-heavy spots.

This is the most straightforward, safest, and drama-free option for avoiding a Thailand visa overstay. No hassle at the airport, no awkward conversations with immigration officers.

It does, however, come at a cost of 1,900 THB. That’s a lot of mango sticky rice! And technically, it covers only that 48-hour gap, just to make sure I don’t get fined or cause problems for future visits. But spending so much on two days is not the most thrilling way to burn through my baht.

Option 2: The Border Run (a.k.a. The Not-So-Wet-Dream of Malaysia)

Cost: Flights, accommodation, and food – basically the cost of a mini-vacation you didn’t plan.

Process: Fly to Malaysia (Kuala Lumpur is the easiest and cheapest from most Thai cities), stay some days (or not), fly back, and boom – a new passport stamp on re-entry.

Where: Flights from Phuket to KL run frequently, and a visa to Malaysia is not needed for Croatians.

At first, this sounded like a mini-adventure. Get a stamp, maybe grab some delicious Malaysian street food, and return with extra days. But after factoring in flights, accommodation, and poor weather in October, it’s starting to look more like an over-complicated solution for my 2-day visa overstay in Thailand. And let’s be real: I’m not going to sightsee in a downpour.

As for other Thailand’s neighbors – Cambodia, Laos, Myanmar? They’re off the table as they all require a visa. Paying for that just to pop in and out doesn’t feel worth it. In that case, I might be better off just purchasing a visa extension in Thailand.

Option 3: Change The Flight (a.k.a. The Miles and (Nothing) More)

Cost: Supposedly, 50 euros for the change fee, plus any fare differences.

Process: You’d think this would be simple, but you’d be wrong. I booked my flight using miles, and changing it has become a headache. I’ve spent weeks trying to get a response from customer support.

The flight operator, Thai Airways told me to contact Lufthansa, as I purchased the ticket through them. Lufthansa told me to reach out to Miles & More, as that’s how I paid for it. And Miles&More told me… Nothing. Zero replies to my support tickets. I’ve been literally ghosted, as this seems to be a “take the miles and run” business.

Where: I wonder too.

Here’s a tip: if you ever book with miles and need to make changes, try tagging the airline on social media. It’s not promised, but sometimes a public shoutout can work wonders. Or, if you can, head to the airline’s help desk at the airport – yes, in person – and see if they can resolve it right there.

For now, this option feels like a long shot, but it’s still in play. If I get lucky and someone at Miles&More finally responds, changing my flight could be my golden ticket to avoiding a visa overstay in Thailand.

Option 4: Buy a New Ticket (a.k.a. Throwing Money at the Problem)

Cost: The most affordable option I found is a Cebu Pacific flight from Chiang Mai to Manila for 146 euros on November 29.

Process: Book a new ticket to the Philippines or anywhere else that suits my fancy before November 30th.

Where: A quick online search shows plenty of options – if you’re willing to forfeit your original flight.

This option means I’d lose the Chiang Mai-Manila ticket I already bought for December 2^nd, which cost me 17,000 miles plus 83 euros in taxes. If I’m willing to throw cash to the wind, I could find a ticket that gets me out before overstaying becomes an issue.

It’s definitely the most costly option, but it does allow me to sidestep the headache of fines, extensions, or border runs. Plus, I could still make it to my original destination, provided I can swallow the loss of my current ticket.

Option 5: Just Pay the Overstay Fine (a.k.a. The Low-Key Rebel Choice)

Cost: 500 THB per day of overstay (1,000 THB total for two days or ~€28)

Process: Show up at the airport on December 2^nd, look sheepishly innocent, and when they notice I overstayed, smile apologetically, pay the fine, and board the flight. Simple enough?

Where: Thai immigration will handle the fine payment right at the airport.

This is by far the cheapest solution to a potential Thailand visa overstay, and while it feels a little rogue and premeditated (especially if you write an article about it first), it’s definitely legal. If I overstay by two days, the fine is 1,000 THB – far less than the visa extension or a border run.

But here’s what everyone really wants to know: Will this affect my future trips to Thailand?

From what I’ve learned, short overstays usually don’t land you in hot water – just a polite lecture and a lighter wallet. Your honest mistake might be even completely forgiven. There’s no ban, no scary “overstay” stamp in your passport. However, do it repeatedly, and immigration might not be so lenient toward your overstaying habit in the future.

It’s tempting to take this option – minimal cost, minimal hassle, and I’m not too worried about a two-day blip on my record. But if you’re the type who likes to play it completely by the rules and prefer not having last-minute airport dramas, this option might leave you feeling a bit uneasy.

Solve your problems ahead of time - learn how to get a digital nomad visa!

Thailand Visa Overstay Options – What Would You Do?

With all these options on the table, I’m still torn. The visa extension seems like the easiest route, but is it worth 1,900 THB for just two extra days?

The overstay fine is tempting – affordable and straightforward – but do I really want to risk even a minor immigration hiccup?

A Malaysia border run could be fun…

And changing my flight? Well, I might as well keep dreaming about an actual response from Miles&More customer service.

Did you experience visa overstay in Thailand on your skin? Drop the helpful advice in the comments, please!

If you’ve ever found yourself in a similarly sticky (and slightly embarrassing) situation, I’d love to hear your advice. What did you do?

Do you have any tips for playing the system (legally, of course)? Do you have a suggestion for a clever loophole I haven’t thought of yet?

Or should I just cut my losses and prepare to fork over the cash? Drop your comments below and help a fellow traveler out.

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In January, I typically analyze the data of Pipeaway’s recommendations you’ve been following in the previous year. Basing its choices on the bestselling bookings of 2019, this article suggests ten countries you should discover in 2020! Follow the steps of Pipeaway’s readers and find the best place to sleep at in Asia, Northern and Southern Europe!

For more travel inspiration, check the bestselling bookings of 2017 and 2018!

Top accommodation choices in 2019

1. Indonesia

While Bali is definitely affected by the coronavirus outbreak in China and declining numbers of tourists from the world’s most populous country, it is still the star of Indonesia’s tourism. The turbulence in the market should lower the prices. Places such as Indonesia, Thailand, or Cambodia, could become even more affordable, once the epidemic concerns calm down.

These are the accommodation recommendations on the island of gods!

Kashantee Village – One of the bestsellers in Seminyak, this three-star property comes with a swimming pool.
Booking.com guests review – 9,0/10

Munduk Moding Plantation – This 4-star nature resort is set on a coffee plantation in Munduk and is known for its extraordinary Instagram-worthy swimming pool.
Booking.com guests review – 9,6/10

The Balé – Set in Nusa Dua, five-star private pool villas are an ideal choice for couples’ holidays or even honeymoons.
Booking.com guests review – 9,3/10

For more accommodation options in Seminyak and Canggu, check out these luxury escapes. If you are heading to Ubud, Sanur, or Banyuwedang, these are the resorts that will recharge your batteries.

2. Japan

Japan has always been at the top of my travel lists. A country with a great balance of tradition and modernity, amazing food, extraordinary festivals, polite people, and an extremely high feeling of safety, is the one I’d move to. Just waiting for someone to propose, lol!

While I didn’t have a chance to visit Japan in 2019, I’m happy some of you did!

OYO Hotel MUSUBI KYOTO Higashiyama Gojo – This hotel is set in central Kyoto, a city of numerous temples, gardens, and palaces.
Booking.com guests review – 8,9/10

If you want to explore Tokyo, check out these artsy places in Japan’s capital!

3. Malta

I discovered Malta only in December and, even in winter, the country had a lot to offer! If you love architecture and raw coastline nature, historical treasures, and movie sites, this Mediterranean island should get on your bucket list!

Meditropical B&B – This small bed and breakfast in Sliema is a solid base. One can cook in the well-equipped kitchen!
Booking.com guests review – 9,2/10

Maritim Antonine Hotel & Spa – This hotel in Mellieha might not be the best 4-star hotel on the island, but comes with a tempting price.
Booking.com guests review – 8,5/10

1926 Hotel & Spa – The recommended hotel from my article on things to do in Malta is an eco-responsible enterprise. While it has space to grow and develop, if you want to support environment-friendly operations, this is the one to book!
Booking.com guests review – 8,5/10

4. Italy

While I’ve written only about Rome, there are places in northern Italy that are solid destinations but are also close to the airports serving low-cost flights. In 2019, Pipeaway readers were booking places in Treviso and Trieste, check them out!

5. Philippines

Due to its location, volcanic activity might affect travel to the Philippines, but once you’re there, the country’s beauty will certainly enchant you. Palawan is at the top of the list of places you should visit!

According to Pipeaway’s readers, Coron and Puerto Princesa are favorite bases from which you can explore the islands. If you wonder what that could look like, check my article about the boat trip to Coron Island!

6. Thailand

The Thai Baht is one of those Asian currencies that experienced a fall after the coronavirus outbreak in China. Every third tourist in Thailand was Chinese, and now that they stay at home, the market is thirsty for any visitor it can get.

According to Pipeaway readers’ bookings, the northern towns of Udon Thani, Phitsanulok, and Chiang Mai are especially attractive destinations! This is my list of things to do in Chiang Mai.

If you prefer visiting Thai islands such as Koh Samet, consider Mooban Talay Resort! Check their prices on Booking.com.
Booking.com guest review – 8,6/10

7. Laos

Laos is one of the poorest countries in Southeast Asia, yet extremely rich in its natural and cultural heritage! Luang Prabang and Vientiane have been at the top of your choices in 2019!

The country’s best 5-star property is Crowne Plaza Vientiane! Check their prices for your dates on Booking.com.
Booking.com guest review – 9,3/10

8. Norway

Norway is one of the most beautiful countries I’ve ever visited. Many Pipeaway readers agree. Its incredible fjords, mountains, waterfalls, and lakes provide great opportunities for hiking.

I can especially recommend Aurlandsfjord and Lysefjord, with various attractive content that will fill out the whole length of your stay.

For those of you who prefer a mini-universe spared from big crowds, but with amazing hiking paths and even the longest staircase in the world, choose Flørli! For the best accommodation price, book your Flørli stay through this link!
Booking.com guest review – 9,0/10

9. Cambodia

Cambodia is a country I like to go back to. Whether you are into unusual traditions such as Songkran, the alternative insect meals, the ancient Angkor temples of the Khmer Empire, or even if you just want to travel safely as an LGBT visitor, Cambodia will be welcoming!

Treeline Urban Resort (the featured image of the article), which I wrote about in the article on plastic pollution fight pioneers, was my favorite hotel of 2019!
Booking.com guest review – 9,7/10

If you want to stay in the 2017 top hotel, check out Jaya House RiverPark!
Booking.com guest review – 9,9/10

Gay travelers should definitely check Rambutan in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap! Use the codes mentioned in the article and get your room with a 15 % discount!
Booking.com guest review – 9,4/10

10. Malaysia

The last country on this recommended list for 2020 is Malaysia. Due to its famous events such as Chap Goh Mei (Chinese Valentine’s) and Thaipusam (Hindu festival in Batu Caves), Kuala Lumpur and Penang Island were on the top of your booking requests!

My friends lived in the capital, and Malaysian stamps were often on my passport in recent years. They did move out, but I will definitely be coming back. There is a lot to discover!

I’d love to hear back from you if you stayed in any of the properties mentioned above! How did you like them? Please comment below!

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Popularized by the same-named Oscar-winning movie, this bridge laid foundations for the war tourism of Kanchanaburi, long before the invention of selfie sticks and the concept of bucket lists invaded the habits of today’s travelers.

In World War 2, Kanchanaburi was an important station of the Siam-Burma Railway. The Japanese aimed to connect the territories of today’s Thailand and Myanmar with a train track laid in the blood of the Allied prisoners of war and enslaved Asian laborers. The most famous outpost of this cruel project turned out to be the Bridge on the River Kwai.

Why are we even interested in sightseeing, if it will expose how blind we are?

The bridge, and in extreme cases even Kanchanaburi War Cemetery, turned out to be Kanchanaburi attractions in a completely inappropriate way! Taking silly poses and making duck faces in places where more than a hundred thousand people lost their lives, resembles dancing on someone’s grave.

Did social media destroy our brain cells? How in the hell did we become so insensitive? Can’t we understand contexts? If indeed we show that we are blind, why are we even interested in – Kanchanaburi sightseeing?

Whenever visiting places demanding respect, we should control our urge for constant camera-clicking. As I have both learned and taught in Lalibela, disrespectful photography could even bring you problems with the police!  

Kanchanaburi trip as an ego trip

From afar, she looks like a statue. While the sun is setting down, she extends her arm and searches for the best angle. She probably already knows the one. But a slight change in degree and the light hits the front camera of her smartphone in a way that gives her profile that magical glare.

With some local flower tucked behind her ear, she stands there for minutes, and minutes, milking the golden hour benefits as much as possible. She stands there even after I finish the tour of the whole bridge. Still in a similar pose, still sending love to the camera, still looking like a statue.

At least nobody can object that these selfie-taking tourists only rush and go. Some of them clearly invest hours and hours in creating that perfect shot. It will become the social proof of their Kanchanaburi travel and an important monument on their always-hungry scale of self-esteem.

The worth of a trip stops being measured through the quality of experiences. It starts being replaced by numbers of hearts or thumbs up stamping some snapshots claiming to be an authentic document of our happiness or joy.

In reality, that fake smile was merely perfected. When tourists are taking selfies, one will notice how quickly that mask of happiness disappears after the camera makes its click.

At the Bridge on the River Kwai, I start reflecting on the fact that selfies additionally alienate us from others. When was the last time you asked a stranger to take a photo of you in front of some famous attraction? With the help of wide-angle lenses, long selfie sticks, and convenient tripods, modern travelers are all-in-one. A director, an actor, a cameraman, even a costume designer, if the shot requests a change of #ootd attire.

The Bridge on the River Kwai – the truth

In the Second World War (1939-1945), the Japanese captured tens of thousands of Commonwealth, Dutch and American service personnel. In 1942, they ordered the building of the 415-kilometer railway through the mountains of Thailand and Burma.

More than 60 thousand prisoners of war and 200 thousand forced laborers from the region constructed the railway in merely 16 months. The conditions were horrible. Malnutrition, jungle diseases, and brutal physical abuse were lethal for many.

Some 12 thousand POWs and half of the Southeast Asian civilian laborers (romusha) died here. The train project with a toll of 100 thousand lives became known as the Death Railway.

The Bridge 277, which inspired Pierre Boulle to write his novel “The Bridge over the River Kwai”, as well as the 1957 movie “The Bridge on the River Kwai” by David Lean, was never on – River Kwai!

The river that was running under this crucial railway bridge was the Mae Klong River! Even if Boulle was a prisoner of war, he had never been on the bridge and based his fiction on an incorrect assumption that it crossed the Khwae Noi River.

Due to the success of the book and the movie, and the pressure of post-war tourists, the Thai government was forced to adopt the mistake. They changed the name of the northern portion of Mae Klong to – Khwae Yai.

The conditions of working on the Death Railway were much worse than what Lean’s Academy Award-winning movie suggested. We could indeed try to forgive the smiling selfie-taking tourists the possible ignorant conviction that they are visiting a movie set and not the spot of the historical tragedy.

However, the movie bridge was never built on this river either! David Lean shot his blockbuster near Kitulgala, a small town in western – Sri Lanka!

Check the trailer of the “Bridge on the River Kwai” movie!

Kanchanaburi sightseeing gone wild

It is quite hard to decode the selfie-making spectacle on the Bridge on the River Kwai. All those pouting lips, balancing on the railway tracks, jumping and lying down, forming victory signs while standing on the most famous monument of the DEATH Railway… What is behind all those cheerful group photos?

Is the lack of knowledge behind the inappropriate celebration of achievement in Kanchanaburi? Did the visitors at least watch the movie as the beautified version of what happened here? Or is it possible that the Bridge on the River Kwai merely sounds like a reference worth including in that bucket list of places to visit before we die?

Is taking a smiling bridge selfie just one of the “best things to do in Kanchanaburi” before we even ask ourselves why?

With invisible bones and forgotten streams of blood, the Bridge on the River Kwai is stripped down to an amusement park! Is it the social pressure contagiously transferring from one visitor to another? Do we take inappropriate photographs because we are mimicking other people in our surroundings doing the same?

1:100.000, or how to shock Bridge on the River Kwai visitors

The first time the visitors of the Bridge on the River Kwai were described as shocked by the media, was in 2016 when an approaching train killed a Japanese man who tried to take a selfie. The reports said that people were screaming in panic!

You see, ONE lost life under the wheels of the train is more than enough to disturb people. They are clearly not desensitized!

Maybe Kanchanaburi needs to remind its visitors more clearly of the historical facts that did not reach them as shocking.

Degrees of “me, myself and I” narcissism

It would be unfair to say that Kanchanaburi sightseeing represents a unique example of how distorted modern traveling has become.

Throughout my world journey, I’ve witnessed travelers queuing in long lines to get some mediocre shot of touching an ancient carving in Rome. I’ve seen them fighting for the best spot while waiting for the Angkor Wat sunrise in Cambodia.

The bragging rights that come with a spectacular selfie are worth even risking one’s life in Norway. And then, many definitely cross the line of respect, such as those Indonesian gallery visitors who got famous for completely wrong reasons, or those that grab Juliet‘s breast in Verona for some cringy social media laugh.

“Me, myself and I” narcissism controls modern tourists in a way that they stop controlling themselves. They damage the artworks, destroy the archeological sites, and endanger flora and fauna. All for the sake of some limited social media stardom.

At the moment, there are more than 400 million posts on Instagram with #selfie hashtag! The movement seems unstoppable. As soon as you publish your own selfie, thousands of others push it down the newsfeed, into oblivion. For most, it is not a discouraging event.

It seems it needs to be “almost too late” for society to take action when selfie-stimulated overtourism becomes dangerous. “The Beach”, a movie with Leonardo DiCaprio, made Phi Phi Islands unbearably famous. The Thai authorities had to close the beach to tourists.

Is the Bridge on the River Kwai unlucky because it doesn’t cross any coral reef that overambitious tourists may damage? Who needs to scream for the protection of the memories of war victims?

Death Railway Museum and Kanchanaburi War Cemetery

Kanchanaburi does provide background information for anyone interested in the context of its ‘attractions’.

Thailand-Burma Railway Centre (also known as Death Railway Museum) is a great place to learn about the history of the railway passing through Kanchanaburi.

It informs in detail about the timeline and the techniques of the construction, as well as about the living and dying conditions of the prisoners – the builders.

The entrance fee is 150 Baht (4,5 Euros). The museum ticket includes a complimentary coffee or tea refreshment. You can consume it in the bar on the upper floor, with a view of the Kanchanaburi War Cemetery.

The entrance to the cemetery, just across the road, is free.

Selfie in the graveyard

Nearly 7.000 prisoners of war buried at Kanchanaburi War Cemetery are enough to make most of the visitors think and reflect and feel respect.

I thought that silly selfies on the Bridge on the River Kwai were possible because of the lack of understanding of history. Hidden in the hordes of other tourists who also ignored the context, people were more prone to engaging in inappropriate behavior, I believed.

Then again, a graveyard is an internationally recognizable last resting place of people. We do not need to believe in life after death, but we should understand others could. Acting inappropriately in such places is truly desecrating.

A busty girl is lying down in the grass, like in some sexy music video. Her boyfriend is taking pictures from above. She twists her body, making love with the camera, utterly unaware of the thousands of other bodies lying around.

When I start to take photos of their photo session, they notice me but have no special reaction. She continues her posing and then absently checks how the photos turned out.

The grass is grass. The background is a background.

Pictures, pictures, more pictures

Another couple, both dressed in colorful Hawaiian shorts and shirts, approaches me. They want me to take a picture of them with graves as the background.

I accept reluctantly, naively thinking that the woman with a floral pattern on her hat and shirt, possibly lost a relative here.

My naivety becomes confirmed when they thank me for their smiling graveyard photo with “Merci beaucoup”. It is a graveyard with Australian, British, and Dutch graves!

Passing through the exit, I hear a local driver annoying the tourists he just brought to the cemetery. He offers to take pictures of them at the graveyard, several times! They just look at him in disbelief.

It seems that even locals here dehumanize Kanchanaburi tourist attractions. Perhaps, this is because Thai people did not share the destiny of other enslaved laborers. Consequently, they are not the first association with the tragic outcomes of the Death Railway.

Is it possible that the selfie invasion of Kanchanaburi is just not perceived as a serious problem?

Auschwitz against “selfie macht frei”

In March 2019, the Auschwitz Museum in Poland asked disrespectful visitors to stop posting selfies on the railway tracks leading into the building that marked the darkest moments of the Second World War.

“Remember you are at the site where over 1 million people were killed. Respect their memory. There are better places to learn how to walk on a balance beam than the site which symbolizes deportation of hundreds of thousands to their deaths”, the Polish museum tweeted.

The Bridge on the River Kwai and the Death Railway did not reach the gruesomeness of Auschwitz.

But we have already seen that the accidental death of one Japanese tourist is enough for people to feel compassion and take a step back from their irrational behavior.

There are places in the world where taking selfies has actually become illegal. Learn more about them at 52PerfectDays!

Kanchanaburi attractions as Disneyland

Without a clear and constant reminder that they are at the place of tragic memory, tourists will not stop training their balance on the tracks of the Death Railway. They will not stop experiencing Kanchanaburi good times in the worst way possible.

When we reduce the historic site to a mere construction of steel and concrete, it becomes an iconic Anything. It becomes a background for social media eccentricity.

Even if their train is not a rollercoaster, Kanchanaburi attractions become Disneyland. As if her parents understood that completely, one of the little visitors walked over the bridge in a Snow White costume. Maybe it was the most appropriate tribute paid to Kanchanaburi tourism of today!

Theme parks can become attractions even after they stop operating. Read about Nara Dreamland, the abandoned Japanese amusement park!

Fifteen minutes of shame

Standing on this World War bridge that led numberless victims to their death, I made an experiment. I raised my smartphone and tried to take a selfie. After that, I noticed my eyes checking left and right first, to see if anyone was looking, before taking a shot. My instinctive behavior was based on a feeling of shame.

In the world of social media likes, do we lack corrective mechanisms of shame? Do we need more “thumbs down” to get back to the initial human instinctive behavior?

In 2017, the Israeli artist Shahak Shapira shamed tourists who were taking inappropriate selfies at the Holocaust Museum in Berlin, Germany.

He launched the Yolocaust website where he republished these insensitive social media posts combined with the real footage from the Nazi concentration camps. The result was eye-opening, even for the selfie-takers!

After the world media shone an additional light on their “fifteen minutes of fame” (or shame?), the protagonists mostly apologized and removed controversial selfies from their Facebook and Instagram profiles.

I wonder if that’s exactly what the Bridge on the River Kwai needs. What can we do to eradicate the dehumanizing selfie pollution? Do we need to install the blood showers on the safety platforms on the bridge? Imagine turning them on at every golden hour! A red drizzle over the micro-influencers no Instagram filter could ever beautify!

Hear the history of the Death Railway from the mouth of the survivors and their Japanese captors!

Kanchanaburi info

Getting to Kanchanaburi

If you already have an interest in visiting Kanchanaburi, it makes sense to go there by train. It uses the same track line that was laid for the Death Railway.

Trains to Kanchanaburi leave from Thonburi Station in Bangkok, at 07:50 and 13:55. Depending on where you decide to stay, you can exit either at the central Kanchanaburi station or at the Kwai Yai Bridge Station. The train ticket from Bangkok to Kanchanaburi costs 100 Bahts (3 Euros).

I went back to Bangkok by bus. The buses and minibuses depart every hour. They will bring you to Mo Chit Bus Terminal (also known as the Northern Terminal) for 120 Bahts (3,60 Euros).

If you want to avoid backtracking to the capital, you can also continue exploring Thailand by taking a train to Hua Hin.

The best time to visit Kanchanaburi

The best time to visit Kanchanaburi is between December and February. This period just after the monsoon rains and before the humidity starts to rise again is when traveling is more bearable.

I visited Kanchanaburi town in March. The rising degrees already affected my walking from one side of the city to another. If you like exploring new towns on foot like me, remember to keep hydrated! Especially if you end up visiting it in April when the high temperatures can reach up to 38 degrees Celsius!

How to choose your Kanchanaburi hotel?

Kanchanaburi hotels with 5-star and 4-star labels are a lonely minority. They are located quite far from Kanchanaburi city center, as well as from the areas you will probably focus on.

More central, and dominating the 3-star level accommodation are Kanchanaburi hostels! Their quality often exceeds what one would expect at such type of a guesthouse.

Latima Boutique Hostel
Price per night: 32-41 Euro (King Room)

If you are looking for Kanchanaburi accommodation that would not break the bank, but still provide a decent place to stay in the vicinity of major Kanchanaburi attractions, Latima Boutique Hostel is your answer!

Hidden behind the light turquoise shutters that give it a countryside effect, Latima Boutique Hostel comes with a spacious reception area. Extravagant furniture and a model of a train made in mahogany wood dominate the pleasant space. It naturally continues into the outside where a swimming pool comes as a nice surprise!

Latima Boutique Hostel offers a range of peaceful sleeping corners, both for solo or group travelers. Their king rooms and dormitories which can fit between 4 and 10 guests, provide that feeling of cleanliness, no matter if we are talking housekeeping or interior design. It’s a pleasant space to retreat to after a long day of Kanchanaburi sightseeing.

Mornings here bring a thrill as well. Unlike at a typical hostel, one can expect a proper breakfast with changing menus, giving you an insight into Thai cuisine.

Just 900 meters away from the Bridge on the River Kwai, Latima Boutique Hostel is perfectly located for anyone who wants to explore Kanchanaburi’s most famous attraction, as well as various restaurant options in Maenamkwai Road.

If you want to visit Erawan National Park with its famous and probably most picturesque Thai waterfalls, the hostel staff will hail the bus when it passes by, so you don’t have to wait outside! Beyond the convenient location, this also makes an amazing – hospitality!

If you are considering booking this extraordinary Kanchanaburi hostel, check Latima’s best available prices on this link!

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Disclosure: My stay at Latima Boutique Hostel was complimentary, but all opinions are my own.

Also, this post contains affiliate links, which means if you click on them and make a purchase, Pipeaway might make a small commission, at no additional cost to you. Thank you for supporting our work!

The post Kanchanaburi Selfie Attractions: Bridge on the River Me, Myself and Kwai appeared first on Pipeaway.

Chiang Mai elbowed its way to the list of top places for digital nomads

While these are undoubtedly entertaining activities and places to visit in Chiang Mai (well, some are on the edge of controversy!), I spent a week in the town without any of these. And it was still a great stay! I actually got hooked on the opportunity to move to northern Thailand for a more extended period!

At the doorstep of the country’s highest mountains, Chiang Mai is a pleasant place. Due to its favorable climate, rich history, cultural and natural attractions, as well as great food and entertainment, Chiang Mai easily elbowed its way to the list of the world’s top places for digital nomads and expats.

The town is equally worth visiting for a few days’ vacation, as well as staying for months! However, if the timeframe for your travel to Chiang Mai is limited, you will need to prepare.

This blog post suggests Chiang Mai attractions you simply must see, and things you have to do in the former Lanna Kingdom capital, and UNESCO’s Creative City of today.

Before you get lost in Chiang Mai sightseeing yourself, here are my personal Chiang Mai top 10 things to do!

10 best things to do in Chiang Mai

1. Feed pigeons at Tha Phae Gate

This historic Chiang Mai gate is located on the eastern side of the Old City. They built it in the 13^th century, together with the rest of the wall defending the town from the Mongols and Burmans. The most substantial part of the wall crumbled during the centuries, but Tha Phae Gate persevered.

Chiang Mai wall’s red bricks are a popular background attraction for Instagrammers, especially if accompanied by pigeons. Local vendors sell not only human, but bird food as well, so these well-fed feathered grabbers shamelessly enjoy the feast.

The square in front of the Tha Phae Gate is a popular site for various community events, from Loi Krathong to Magha Puja, from Flower Festival to Gay Pride. It is a great place to start your Chiang Mai sightseeing!

While Tha Phae Gate might be the selfie spotlight of Chiang Mai, there are places in Thailand where things slipped out of control. Read this article on Kanchanaburi sightseeing before visiting that province!

2. Go temple hunting

Chiang Mai is famous for having 300 temples scattered around the town! This makes it the temple capital of Thailand. You will certainly not be lacking options if you like temple hopping!

To enter the main temple buildings, typically, you will need to pay between 20 and 40 Bahts (60 cents and 1,20 Euros).

You may have already heard of Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, the most visited temple in Chiang Mai. Up in the mountain, the national park surrounds it, but beware if you head there by scooter. Local police are known for stopping tourists and finding an excuse to fine them. In the case of a guy I met in the hostel, a policeman took his driving license, and then charged him for – not having a driving license!

Besides the mountain temple of Doi Suthep, what are unmissable Chiang Mai wat attractions?

Best temples in Chiang Mai

Wat Chiang Man is the oldest temple in Chiang Mai, dating back to the beginning of the 14^th century. This peaceful and never-crowded place served as the residence of King Mengrai, who founded the city. Today, it is home to Chiang Mai’s oldest Buddha image, as well as the famous crystal Buddha, believed to have healing powers.

Wat Chedi Luang is Chiang Mai’s most famous temple. Initially, the central chedi (pagoda) was 80 meters tall, making it the highest point of the old town. There was an earthquake in 1545 that damaged the construction, but it still doesn’t fail to impress. For me, this was one of the best places to visit in Chiang Mai!

Wat Phantao is an underrated temple, the first neighbor of Wat Chedi Luang. The main prayer hall is made of dark teak wood and a gold statue of Buddha dominates it. Make sure to visit the backside of the temple where you will find a small pond, Buddha under a Bodhi tree, and decorative prayer flags.

Wat Phra Singh is a popular temple, in the western part of the Old City. Its main hall is impressive both in size and decoration, while the golden stupas and pagodas dotting the temple grounds glitter in the sunlight.

Wat Umong Suan Phutthatham is outside of the city walls, at the foothill of Doi Suthep Mountain. Chiang Mai’s only forest temple offers ancient underground tunnels and caves, as well as somewhat crumbling structures with a large unpainted stupa.

In the neighboring country of Laos, you can also find amazing temples. Check out the top things to do in Luang Prabang, the temple town of Laos!

3. Learn history at the Chiang Mai museum

Chiang Mai City Arts and Cultural Center is a great place to learn about the history of the town. This heritage museum behind the famous Three Kings Monument houses artifacts, photographs, maps, and a village replica, all illustrating the town’s life through history.

You can learn about the traditions and beliefs of the Lanna people and even find out the exact moment when they founded Chiang Mai – it was 8.6.1296, at 4 am!

The entrance ticket for Chiang Mai’s best museum attraction costs 90 Bahts (2,70 Euros). Beware, it closes on Mondays!

4. Visit the “old Chiang Mai”

Wait; what? There is an older version of Chiang Mai, which is NOT the Old City of Chiang Mai? Yes, on the southern outskirts of today’s Chiang Mai, you can see and explore a historic settlement Wiang Kum Kam.

King Mangrai lived here building his capital, until repeated flooding ended his efforts, and moved the focus to Chiang Mai.

This site was forgotten for several centuries until the archeologists started excavating and restoring the remains in 1984.

I visited Wat Chang Kham (formerly Wat Kan Thom Kumkam Phirom), one of the first discovered temples. But there are many more ruins worth exploring! Wat Chedi Liam (formerly Wat Ku Kham) is the only working temple here with resident monks.

5. Make your own bracelet

Wat Sri Suphan is better known as Chiang Mai’s Silver Temple. Its main ordination hall is dressed in silver, with beautiful carvings and statues.

While you can indeed see the temple as a visitor, there is a much more fun way to do it! All you need to do is join the Silversmith Workshop at the temple’s learning center for silverware art! Infiltrate among the monks, and learn how to tame the hard material into objects of beauty!

At the workshop, you will be handling the aluminum. Nobody could afford your training in silver! They will provide all the materials and tools.

The silversmith master Kru Tu was born in this neighborhood, the village of silversmiths, and has been perfecting her skills for 14 years. You are in great hands, and even if making a bracelet can sound terrifying, you will succeed! Your teacher will fix your mistakes in a way that you will want to wear your bracelet at the end with pride.

Kru Tu was one of the artists who contributed to how the Silver Temple looks today. But Buddhist rules forbid her to enter the temple as she is a woman. Therefore, all the work had to be done elsewhere and then handed out to men who installed the pieces together.

Today, Mme. Tu is transferring her knowledge to all the monks coming from far away and thus preserving this traditional art form.

Update 2023: As Backstreet Academy, the platform for meaningful travel experiences that enabled my participation in the silversmith workshop, ceased to exist, I cannot confirm that this activity, as one of the most fun and unique things to do in Chiang Mai, is still available through other operators. 

6. Take a dip in the Chiang Mai waterfall

Huay Kaew Waterfall is just 5 kilometers out of the old town. Chiang Mai’s closest waterfall is located next to Chiang Mai Zoo, inside Doi Suthep-Pui National Park.

Having water throughout the year, it is an easily accessible refreshment, adequate for the whole family. There are small pools of water one can take a swim in, while the surrounding is perfect for a picnic!

The entrance to the waterfall is free of charge. That’s Chiang Mai sightseeing with an award!

If you continue further north, you'll find more one-of-a-kind waterfalls and other unique sights in Pai, a small town close to the border with Myanmar.  

7. Relax in Oasis Spa

Exploring Chiang Mai eventually leads to fatigue. The best way to fight it at the end of a tiring day is to enjoy some massage.

There are plenty of cheap options throughout the town. Masseurs and masseuses will be pulling at your sleeve, hoping that you will enter their “parlor”! Usually, they are of dubious quality.

For outstanding experience in clean facilities with tradition in business, visit one of Oasis Spa‘s establishments! There are six in the Chiang Mai area!

I visited the Lanna branch, set in the heart of the Old City, just a stone’s throw away from Wat Phra Singh. Typically, a driver would pick you up at your hotel, but as I stayed nearby, I walked directly to the spa.

After being welcomed with a refreshing lavender towel and pandan tea, I was escorted to one of the separate huts. It had two massage tables and a large bathroom.

My booking was for King of Oasis, the two-hour treatment that combined Thai massage techniques with aromatherapy. It started with a Thai herbal hot compress along the muscle lines, then followed by a hot oil massage, designed to stretch the muscles and “reopen the body’s energy pathways”.

In the final stretching moments, even Nadia left loud moans out, sympathizing with my pain!

Wording aside, my masseuse Nadia brought me to such a level of relaxation that I – fell asleep. My two-hour massage felt like an 8-hour dream!

Someone called this treatment a stress-management Thai-style, and indeed: she squeezed the physical part of the stress out of my muscles. In the final stretching moments, even Nadia left loud moans out, sympathizing with my pain. She fixed a lot of it!

On the way out of this fabulous Chiang Mai spa, they offered me some watermelon, melon, and tea.

King of Oasis (available in the female version as Queen of Oasis) costs 3.900 Bahts (118 Euros).

8. Shop at Chiang Mai’s must-see night markets (or avoid them)

No matter which day of the week you visit Chiang Mai, it will be hard to miss its night markets. They are an essential part of Chiang Mai city life.

While markets are an excellent opportunity to eat, drink, shop, and mingle around with locals, they can also get crowded. This may deter you if you don’t like stumbling upon slow strollers.

If you need to cross the town during the night markets, think about alternative routes to avoid the shoppers. So this part of Chiang Mai’s must-see top 10 is essential to know about even if you hate night markets!

Three night markets lead in popularity. Chiang Mai Night Bazaar on Changklan Road is open every day of the week, and will offer you tons of souvenir choices! Saturday Night Street Market on Wua Lai Road (also known as Wualai Market) is another excellent place to find gifts. Sunday Night Market (Sunday Walking Street) centers around Rachadamnoen Road, with many street foods and endless shopping options. For a more western-style experience, visit these Nimman night markets.

Whether you are looking for a late-night meal or some street entertainment, whether you need to buy the special carved soap or those must-have elephant pants, visiting the night markets is one of the unskippable Chiang Mai’s attractions at night!

9. Eat Thai Japanese

Tasteatlas, the global resource for authentic food, suggests the best local food to eat in Chiang Mai are indeed soups such as Khao Soi, Tom Kha Gai and Tom Saep. But here I propose options for something less expected!

Its name is Tengoku! There are dozens of Japanese restaurants in Chiang Mai, but this one tops the charts. Tengoku is a modern establishment serving authentic Japanese food that could be described only with superlatives.

Located in Nimman, Chiang Mai’s trendiest neighborhood, Tengoku is a pleasant eatery. Their chef might be Thai, but two decades of working experience with the Japanese leave no doubt about the high-quality standards. This Japanese invasion of Thailand (even if only in terms of gastronomy) no one would complain about.

What do you need to try? Don’t miss Beef Tataki, thin raw slices of New Zealand beef served with ponzu sauce, or Nasu Dengaku, the delicious grilled eggplant glazed with miso, a favorite among vegetarians. Ume Sashimi, with otoro, yellowtail, tuna, and salmon, served with handmade wasabi, Hakata Wagyu Steak with three sauces, or grilled Fois Gras Sushi are also worth trying.

At Tengoku, they serve their homegrown organic salad and invest a lot into providing fresh food only. Even the buffet option is served a la carte here!

For Thai food in a simple setting, I can recommend visiting the Little Kitchen, and if you want to try some Burmese, The Swan is a good option. At night markets try the array of street foods! Do not forget to grab your portion of sticky rice with mango, it is the sweet-salty local favorite, and Chiang Mai’s must-eat!

10. Sleep well at Pakping Hostel

The best area to stay in Chiang Mai is the Old City. The accommodation here ranges from cheap hostels via boutique hotels to luxury resorts with pools. If looking for Airbnb apartments, you will find them north and east of the Chiang Mai walls.

Pakping Hostel is located in the heart of the city; just a short walk away from all the Chiang Mai attractions you want to visit. That makes it a very convenient place to stay when visiting the town. As it is on a dead-end street, no traffic or other noise will affect your well-deserved rest.

This Chiang Mai hostel has two air-conditioned dorm rooms (one reserved for female guests only), which provide curtained bed compartments for comfort and privacy. While dormitories (and related bathrooms) do have somewhat limited space, the good news is that you can also rent a double room with a private bathroom. This option costs 1.130 baht or less (about 30 euros), which is just a portion of the price you would pay elsewhere!

There are also two common places at Pakping Hostel. On the ground floor, behind the reception, you can make your meal in the kitchen or enjoy your free breakfast in the dining space (from muesli to dumplings, from yogurt to cookie jars). On the first floor, there is an area with cushions to rest, read, hang with other guests, or surf the free wifi.

All in all, if you are looking for pleasantly designed and reasonably priced accommodation in Chiang Mai, Pakping Hostel is a great choice.

For the best available price for this accommodation, click here!

If you want to check out more options of places to stay, consider this Chiang Mai accommodation offer!

Top 10 Chiang Mai sightseeing attractions – conclusion

If you are into the exciting history and even more exciting gastronomy, great massages, or day trips to beautiful nature, northern Thailand has so many stories to tell!

I hope my suggestions of what to see in Chiang Mai, the list of its best attractions and sightseeing sites, can help you plan your trip to the Rose of the North.

Chiang Mai must-see temples will satisfy any Buddhist or religious architecture fan.

The town’s famous night markets will make you fill your shopping bag with many trinkets!

If you want to make a gift of your own, even that is possible with projects such as the silversmith workshop.

Chiang Mai’s heritage and traditions are impressive, and once you are there, your list of top 10 things to do in Chiang Mai will only grow and grow!

One week of holiday in Chiang Mai does not satisfy and asks for a return visit. My own best conclusion is: See you soon, Chiang Mai!

Chiang Mai facts

Elevation: 310 m

Population: 131.091 (2017), metropolitan area – close to a million people

Chiang Mai – the best time to visit

The peak tourist season in Chiang Mai is between November and March. The weather is dry, and the temperatures are pleasant in this period. In April, Chiang Mai’s temperature rises, up to 40 degrees Celsius! From June on, the temperature will go down, but the humidity will increase. There will be more rain, but fewer tourists. So the answer to “when to visit Chiang Mai” really relates to what you are looking for!

If you want to avoid the infamous Chiang Mai burning season, expect that the farmers will be burning their forests and fields in March and April. Chiang Mai’s air quality, as well as the visibility of the landscape, will be poorer in these months of higher pollution.

How long to spend in Chiang Mai?

The choice of how many days to spend in Chiang Mai depends on the available time you have.

Several days should be enough to visit Chiang Mai’s top attractions and highlights. For me, it took me a few days to grasp the essence of this city. And once I figured it out, I honestly thought this could be an excellent place to stay longer, maybe for months.

Besides for digital nomads, I guess more extended stays would be advisable for all massage enthusiasts. There are plenty of massage schools, so if you want to level up your game, Chiang Mai is a great place to learn.

How to get to Chiang Mai?

The quickest way to get from Bangkok to Chiang Mai is by flying. Chiang Mai Airport is a busy airport with both domestic and international flights. Besides Bangkok, flying is also an easy solution to get from Chiang Mai to Phuket, Koh Samui, or Udon Thani.

If you want to get from Chiang Mai to Singapore or Luang Prabang in Laos, you will be able to find direct flights. If you go to Chiang Mai from Manila, the Philippines, you will need to transfer in Bangkok or Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia.

Getting from Chiang Mai airport to the city is easy and possible by taxi, minibus, songthaew, or tuk-tuk. Top hotels in Chiang Mai may be able to provide a complimentary airport pick-up, so check in advance!

Another popular option for getting to Chiang Mai from Bangkok is by train. I took an overnight train in a fan-cooled sleeper and paid 531 Baht for it (approx. 16 Euros). The ride can last between 11 and 15 hours, but sleeping compartments provide an easy way to save on one-night accommodation. The lower bunk bed has a bit more space and a window, in case you prefer looking at the scenery. The best is to buy the ticket directly at the train station.

If you want to get from Chiang Mai to Pai or Chiang Rai, you will need to take the bus (Arcade bus station).

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Disclosure: My stay at the Pakping Hostel, as well as a meal at Tengoku and massage treatment in Oasis Spa, were complimentary, but all opinions are my own.

Also, this post contains affiliate links, which means if you click on them and make a purchase, Pipeaway might make a small commission, at no additional cost to you. Thank you for supporting our work!

The post Chiang Mai Sightseeing: Top 10 Attractions appeared first on Pipeaway.