I wanted to know what Peony was doing exactly. I wished to learn the secrets of Thai massage

There’s a particular kind of quiet inside a spa that feels different from anywhere else. Not silence exactly – more like everything has agreed to lower its voice. Soft footsteps, the distant water trickling, the faint clink of ceramic cups. That immediate hit of calm put me in the zen zone, yet I had to stay fully awake. I wasn’t here just to enjoy the pleasures of relaxation, but on a research mission: to confirm that my recollection of an extraordinary royal massage five years earlier, when I famously fell asleep mid-treatment, was still grounded in reality.

That late night at Lane 7 of Nimmana Haeminda Road (Oasis Spa closes at midnight, making massage a perfect lulling to sleep), I’d been in the good hands of Peony, a supervisor with a decade of experience. It showed.

After I changed to loose green clothing, I received a massage I could only call dedicated, precisely calibrated, and very strong (just like I requested).

But even more – I wanted to know what Peony was doing exactly. I wished to learn the secrets of Thai massage. And so began my journey to Thai Oasis Spa School. To become, at least briefly, a masseur.

Why even take a massage course in Chiang Mai?

Take an evening stroll through Chiang Mai, Thailand’s second-largest city, tucked in the northern hills, and something becomes clear quickly: you’ve come to a massage town. After a long day of temple hopping, Chiang Mai’s massage parlors fill up with tourists seeking relief for aching legs. Rows of masseuses rubbing their clients’ feet in sync look like a well-oiled massage machine.

But beyond the affordable treatments, Chiang Mai has quietly built a reputation as one of the best places in the world to actually learn Thai massage. Not in a flashy, over-marketed way. More through sheer density and institutional seriousness. Schools are everywhere. From months-long professional certification programs to casual drop-in workshops designed for travelers who just want to try it out.

I’d initially entertained grander ambitions. A long back-and-forth email exchange with Thai Oasis Spa School’s manager revealed that Thai government certificates for longer courses were reserved exclusively for Thai citizens. The full Spa Therapist course (84 days) or one of the 25-day programs in Aromatherapy, Swedish, or Thai Massage were off the table.

It was a mini-disappointment. I didn’t truly need a diploma to frame on my wall. But, for a fleeting moment, the idea of becoming a therapist had genuinely taken root. It just seemed the stars didn’t align around it yet.

It seemed already precious to understand what Thai massage actually feels like from the other side. So when a half-day course aligned with my dates in Chiang Mai, I didn’t hesitate.

Of course, massage isn’t something you can even begin to grasp in a few hours. But as a window into the profession, it felt like a decent place to start.

Why I Chose Thai Oasis Spa School

If you’ve scrolled through travel forums looking for a Thai massage training course in Chiang Mai, you’ve probably noticed the same handful of names come up again and again.

Thai Massage School Shivagakomarpaj (the Old Medicine Hospital), Sunshine Massage School, Ong’s Thai Massage School, International Training Massage School… These institutions will fight for your attention as soon as you start exploring options.

With dozens of schools scattered across the city – from the temples of the Old City to quiet residential neighborhoods – the choice of massage training in Thailand can feel overwhelming. Many of them are more traditional, some more clinical, others more bare-bones.

Thai Oasis Spa School sits somewhere else entirely. It’s polished, but not in a sterile way. It doesn’t feel like a classroom so much as an intentional environment curated to make you slow down, with time that works differently. That’s a great atmosphere for real learning.

Honestly, after I did my best-informed research on options that would offer simple half-day sessions for inexperienced beginners, my decision was an instinctive one. But it was also based on my own massage experiences at Oasis Spa, which were consistently at an exceptional level. I saw this spa as a professional one, an exemplary case of a wellness institution. So, if I wanted to step into this world, these felt like the right doors: something I would respect and feel respected for after completion.

What is Thai Oasis Spa School?

Founded in 2009 with the belief that education is fundamental to Oasis Spa’s high standards, the school is based at 131/44 Moo 1, Chang Puak, in the northern reaches of Chiang Mai, well away from the tourist bustle. Over 2,000 students have passed through its doors.

The curriculum blends traditional Thai massage, rooted in acupressure and Thai Lanna tradition, with western methods, and carries real institutional weight: recognized by Thailand’s Ministry of Education, Ministry of Public Health, and the Department of Skill Development. For recreational students like me, that means a certificate of attendance. For professional course completers, a certified diploma.

The catalogue runs impressively wide. A 6-hour introduction at one end; the 500-hour Qualified Spa Therapist program at the other (120 hours theory, 380 hours practice – enough to launch a career).

The half-day “Head, Back & Shoulder Massage” course I attended is a highlight for time-pressed travelers. It seemed designed as a standalone skill-builder, not just the most basic taster.

This is my first-hand account of completing this Thai massage course.

What the Half-Day Thai Massage Course Actually Includes

The course I took focused on head, back, and shoulder massage – a kind of condensed introduction to Thai techniques adapted for beginners.

Whether you’re a traveler looking to pick up a skill, a wellness enthusiast wanting a taste of authentic Thai massage techniques, or someone considering a longer program down the line, this course seemed a perfect intro.

Here’s what that looked like in practice:

• A short introduction to basic principles
• Demonstration by the instructor
• Guided, step-by-step practice
• Switching roles (giving and receiving)

There’s no heavy theory. No anatomy deep-dives. No memorizing Sanskrit terms or energy line maps.

Instead, it’s very physical. Very immediate. You watch a movement. You try it. You get corrected. You try again.

Where to stay near Thai Oasis Spa School?

I booked the nearest solid hostel I could find and relied on Grab transfer from there on. My Way Hostel was honestly not the best choice, but you can’t be too critical for a nightly rate of 250 baht (6.60 euros or 7.70 dollars).

For a single room closer to the course, the school can recommend a few places that provide special rates to its students, and are all within 550-750 meters. Those are the We Valley Hotel, the B2 Black Hotel, or Maan Fah Place (offering discounted monthly rates for longer stays).

My first impressions

On the day of the course, I woke up early enough to walk to the school, where my arrival was expected at 9 am. It was still an hour-long stroll in tropical morning humidity, so I’d probably rethink that choice next time.

The building itself was a surprise – modern architecture, a dark minimalist facade, and a white-framed entrance. This effective contrast (visible even in the black-and-white roadside curb) is common in Thai spa design, and here it contributed to a clean, organized look, creating a calm, professional aesthetic one would expect from a space of renewal. Of course, we’re in Thailand, so even the most polished geometry gets softer edges with trees and greenery bringing nature to the picture. Something that could feel corporate feels serene instead.

Despite being part of a well-established institution linked to the wider Oasis Spa group – which also has branches in Bangkok, Pattaya, and Phuket – the Chiang Mai school has the atmosphere of a boutique training center rather than a factory churning out certificates.

As I waited in the lobby with a checkered gray‑and‑white tile floor, I filled in a registration form and sipped from an Oasis-branded water bottle. Everything felt unhurried. The first impression was very professional; even the lit candle in a ceramic holder suggested I was at a place where rituals are treated with mindfulness.

I paid 300 baht (7.90 euros or 9.30 dollars) for the obligatory uniform and changed while storing my personal belongings in a locker. My outfit for the day consisted of a white branded t-shirt and black kang-keng sa-dor, simple wrap-style fisherman pants that I still love wearing at home today.

Inside the Head, Back & Shoulder Massage course

My Thai massage course began in a classroom. Among the two dozen empty tablet arm chairs, I was the only student that morning, warmly greeted by my teacher, massage instructor Andaman Wongkajorn.

“Like the sea”, her words splashed me like waves.

“I know, I just stayed on your shores!”, I replied, memories still fresh from visiting The Anda Mani Khaolak Beachfront Villas.

Miss Andaman, recipient of the Outstanding Teacher of the Year 2026 Award from the Chiang Mai Private Education Association, also introduced Khao-ot (khao: rice; oht: oat), a pretend assistant half her size. The muscular doll served as a model for demonstrating which areas of the body to massage and which ones to avoid.

Massage is a delicate profession, after all. As incidents in Udon Thani and Phuket tragically showed in 2024, the wrong technique applied to the neck can cause paralysis, or worse.

The theory section exists for a reason. It took us only ten minutes to explore the overview of the head, back, and shoulder technique, and its benefits. Once your ear adjusts to the specific English pronunciation of your teacher (something I got used to at yoga classes back at the Hilltop Wellness Resort in Phuket), the theory is easy to follow. Whenever I had a question, the teacher readily answered or even demonstrated specific areas on my own body.

Then we moved to the next room, with ten prepared massage beds. Here, assistant trainer Miss Amonrat Paojae took over, while Miss Andaman left for a dressing room to change clothes so she could become a ‘test dummy’ of my very first massage under professional supervision.

Learning by Feeling

Amonrat demonstrated the full sequence slowly, building methodically from the foot-cleaning procedure up toward the back, shoulders, and head – our main massage targets of the day. Fifty minutes of patient, question-welcoming ‘look and learn’.

Then it was my turn to replicate the techniques. The trainer was always on my side, ready to correct my posture and hand placement without the learning feel pressured.

The first few minutes of manipulating another body feel unsure and awkward. Climbing the massage table might not look very graceful. Where do my hands go? Is this the right order? Is it… good?

The instructor doesn’t overwhelm you. Corrections are small, precise: adjust your angle, use your body weight rather than your hands, slow down…

Thai Lanna massage, rooted in the traditions of northern Thailand, differs subtly from the more commonly known central Thai or Bangkok style. It tends to be slightly softer in its pressure application, with more emphasis on rhythmic, flowing sequences. For a beginner, this makes it more accessible.

Here’s the thing, though. My personal preference is a strong massage (remember what I complimented Miss Peony for?). As I surrendered to the massage flow, my pressure started climbing. And I completely forgot that under the towel was Miss Andaman, a real, live, fully sentient human being. My massage instructor was extremely patient while handling my style.

But I guess learning to massage is oddly similar to learning a dance step. Our bodies don’t always listen, we hesitate between transitions, and we bump a few toes in the process.

Only time and practice remove the mechanical and disconnected feel. And one embraces the rhythm that both ‘dancing’ sides approve.

Besides the certificate, I received compliments for my performance. I was left to believe that I could truly start a new career: massaging people.

Can You Really Learn Massage in Half a Day?

Short answer: yes. And also: not even close.

By the end of the session, you can absolutely perform a basic head, back, and shoulder sequence. You remember the general flow. You understand how to apply pressure more effectively, without brute hand force. You’re no longer guessing blindly.

But this isn’t mastery. Nowhere near it.

Think of it like learning a few chords on a guitar. You can play something recognizable. Maybe even enjoyable. But you might miss a few steps, muddle the order of the notes, and occasionally fall completely out of the tune. You’re not ready to perform on stage yet.

What you do gain is confidence to try, awareness of technique, and a structured sequence you can repeat. But there is still so much to learn – from deep technical precision to adaptability for different body types. Professional-level consistency comes with time as well.

One thing that caught me off guard was how physically demanding giving a massage can be. By the end, I was sweating as if I’d spent the morning in road construction – because I still have so much to learn and adopt (for instance, how shifting weight and adjusting body position can replace the tiresome investment of hands).

Something that looks effortless from the outside is, in reality, a quiet choreography of pressure, timing, and awareness. And for a few hours, you get to step into that role. Not as an expert, but not entirely as a beginner anymore, either.

And if time allows at the end of the course, you’ll even receive a free massage from your instructor, as I did. In the Western Hemisphere, that alone would cost what you paid for the whole course. Here, besides the immediate benefits of the treatment, you also get the inside knowledge and an interactive travel experience with a skill that you can actually take away.

Who This Course Is (and Isn’t) For

This kind of half-day experience is a great fit if you are curious about the art of Thai massage but not ready for a full course, if you want a hands-on travel memory instead of another temple visit, or if you’d like to learn to give better massages to your partner.

For anyone who has no prior experience, the half-day Thai massage class with no prerequisite knowledge required is a perfect start.

But if you’re looking for deep technical training or prefer theory-heavy learning on your way to a professional certificate, you should probably look for another class on the Thai Oasis Spa School list (for instance, Thai 10 Meridian Line Massage – 180 hours, or the Qualified Spa Therapist – 500 hours).

The half-day course is not a cheap way to replace serious massage education. It is just an introduction, that white-framed doorway into a much larger house of massage knowledge.

THAI MASSAGE COURSE - PRACTICAL INFO 

Location: 131/44 Moo 1, Chang Puak, Muang, Chiang Mai

Phone: +66 53 920 188

Website: oasisschool.biz

Hours: Monday–Friday, 9 am – 5 pm

Course duration: Normally 6 hours (Head, Back & Shoulder)

Course price: 3,500 baht (approx. €92 / $108)

Uniform: School-provided, 300 baht (€7.90 / $9.30)

Level: Beginner-friendly, no experience needed

Language: English instruction available

Is a half-day Thai massage course in Chiang Mai worth it? – Conclusion

Taking a short massage course in Chiang Mai is one of those activities that sound like a tourist cliché until you actually do them. And then you wonder why you waited so long.

A half-day Thai massage course is an affordable, genuine window into a wellness tradition that stretches back centuries

Thai Oasis Spa School is a legitimate, professionally run institution that takes its reputation seriously.

The Head, Back & Shoulder course won’t make you a therapist. But it will give you a real, transferable skill, one backed by authentic Thai Lanna technique, that you can practice on willing friends and family members long after you’ve left Thailand.

It’s an affordable, genuine window into a wellness tradition that stretches back centuries.

And somewhere in the middle of sweating through your first real massage, correcting your hand placement for the fourth time, and accidentally manhandling your very patient instructor – something shifts. You’re no longer just a recipient of this craft. You’re beginning, however haltingly, to understand it from within.

For anyone considering a massage course in Chiang Mai, Thai Oasis Spa School is a strong, welcoming, and genuinely memorable place to start.

Are you considering taking a Thai massage course in Chiang Mai?
Pin our Thai Oasis Spa School review for later!

Disclosure: My participation in the Thai Oasis Spa School massage course was complimentary, but all opinions are my own.

Also, this post may contain affiliate links, meaning if you click on them and make a purchase, Pipeaway may make a small commission, at no additional cost to you. Thank you for supporting our work!

The post I Took a Thai Massage Course in Chiang Mai: Here’s What It’s Really Like appeared first on Pipeaway.

In the Sam Kong neighbourhood on the quieter north side of Phuket Town, people usually gather around Chillva Market for quirky accessories, a relaxed dinner, or a taste of local nightlife. Show up at dawn during Tesagan Gin Je, however, and the air feels entirely different: charged, almost electrically. When the Phuket Vegetarian Festival takes the Lim Hu Tai Su Shrine into its embrace, streets pulsate with devotees who display faith that conquers pain.

Some draw the blade across their tongues. Blood squirts over their arms

It begins with sound. Already at the first corner of Yaowarat Road – a street named after Thailand‘s first crown prince – a sharp metallic clang cuts through the morning stillness.

Around thirty barefoot men, dressed only in white trousers and ornately embroidered aprons, swing axes against their own exposed backs, skin already lined with cuts. Some draw the blade across their tongues. Blood squirts over their arms.

Check out the atmosphere in this YouTube short!

 

Those who descend deeper into trance don’t stop at surface wounds. Spikes, swords, sabers, sickles, sledgehammers, and secateurs adorn their faces as they walk the streets of Phuket Town. The tool needn’t begin with ‘s’ – it only has to fit through a hole pierced in the devotee’s cheek. A surprising number of things do.

The procession departs from Lim Hu Tai Su Shrine toward Saphan Hin Park at 6:45 am on the fourth day of a nine-day celebration honoring the Nine Emperor Gods. At one of the spiritually most significant Chinese shrines in Phuket, incense smoke and firecracker haze mingle in the early light, setting the rhythm for an act of disciplined devotion.

But Lim Hu Tai Su Shrine is far more than a festival backdrop. It is a living spiritual center, woven deep into the island’s Chinese-Thai heritage. This centuries-old Taoist temple rises magnificently from a thoroughly ordinary neighbourhood of food shops, schools, and flower stalls. That contrast makes the shrine feel otherworldly. Step through the dragon-wrapped columns, and the everyday will stay behind.

Lim Hu Tai Su Shrine History

Over a century before the axes came out at dawn, there was just a patch of land, a cement floor, some zinc walls, and a thatched roof on wooden posts.

Lim Hu Tai Su Shrine – variously spelled Lim Hoo Tai Soo or Loem Hu Thai Su, and also known as Sam Kong Shrine after its neighborhood – has served as a spiritual anchor for Phuket’s Hokkien Chinese community since its construction in 1914.

The temple’s congregation consists of descendants of migrants who left Fujian province in southern China during the 19th century, drawn to Phuket by the promise of work in the island’s booming tin-mining industry. They built businesses, planted roots, and, just as importantly, brought with them the temples, rituals, and religious traditions of home.

In an unfamiliar and often unforgiving environment, shrines weren’t a luxury. They were a lifeline: protective spiritual centers where communities prayed for health, prosperity, and the kind of stability that comes from feeling watched over by familiar gods. A number of these shrines took root across the island.

The land of Lim Hu Tai Su was donated in 1914 by Luang Sunthon Chinpracha, a member of a prominent Chinese-Thai family. Five years later, he formalized the gift, issuing a land title deed in the name of Muen Sam Kong, also known as Tan Boon-seng.

In the 1940s and 1950s, the original structures were expanded, renovated, and improved – first to corrugated zinc, then to tiled roofing – before being completely demolished and rebuilt from scratch in 1994.

Shortly after the renovation, the shrine’s caretaker summoned Hiew How, the sacred fire from China’s Kung Sai province, and with that ritual act, Lim Hu Tai Su Shrine formally became a full participant in the annual Nine Emperor Gods Festival, beginning in 1995.

Today’s complex reflects a blend of traditional southern Chinese temple architecture and local Thai influences: an elaborate ceremonial gate at the Lim Hu Tai Su Shrine entrance, curved tiled roofs, stone lion guardians standing watch on either side, and intricate serpentine golden dragons coiling around vivid red pillars.

Who Is Lim Hu Tai Su?

The shrine takes its name from its principal deity: Lim Hu Tai Su, a divine figure believed to hold power over illness. Its sacred statue occupies the main altar, surrounded by venerated images of other Chinese gods, including Nezha, the child-god of young rebels, and Guan Yin, the goddess of compassion.

According to local lore, Lim Hu Tai Su was once human – a former servant of the Chinese Imperial Palace, which explains an intriguing quirk recorded in the shrine’s history: when devotees first attempted to communicate with the deity through a spirit medium (ma song), nobody could understand a word of the responses. The deity, it turned out, was speaking in the formal regal dialect of the imperial court. It was only when the conversation switched to Hokkien, the mother tongue of Phuket’s Chinese-Thai community, that things began to flow.

Originally, the possessed medium would write medical prescriptions on golden paper, place them in a clay pot, and wait for nine joss sticks to burn completely before adding water. The patient would then drink the infused liquid.

Sacred texts that once documented the deity’s magical techniques in detail are said to have been lost over time, adding a layer of mystery to the shrine.

Nevertheless, many people still come to Lim Hu Tai Su Shrine specifically to pray for good health. A common ritual involves bringing traditional Chinese herbal medicines purchased from local shops and presenting them at the temple altar, asking the deity to bless them with healing properties before use.

Nine Emperor Gods Festival – When Lim Hu Tai Su Shrine Comes Alive

Throughout the year, Lim Hu Tai Su Shrine hosts Taoist ceremonies, merit-making events, and communal prayers. But it is during the ninth lunar month (typically falling in October) that activity intensifies dramatically.

The annual Nine Emperor Gods Festival – known locally as Tesagan Gin Je  – transforms Lim Hu Tai Su Shrine into one of the most compelling ritual spectacles in Southeast Asia. During those nine days, streets fill with white-clad devotees, spirit mediums walk on hot coals and pierce their flesh without apparent pain, and curious visitors from across the world stand on sidewalks with their mouths open, wondering what exactly they stumbled into.

The origins of the festival in Phuket trace back to the early 1800s. The most widely told story involves a troupe of Chinese opera performers who fell gravely ill while on the island. In a desperate bid for recovery, they adopted a strict vegetarian diet and prayed fervently to the Nine Emperor Gods for nine days and nine nights. When they recovered, they kept their vow by establishing a festival in honor of the gods, a tradition that has grown into one of Phuket’s most iconic events.

Lim Hu Tai Su Shrine’s formal integration into this festival is a more recent chapter. Before the shrine’s restoration in the mid-1990s, Lim Hu Tai Su worship during the festival was conducted from Bang Neow Shrine.

The Nine Emperor Gods Festival in Phuket was born in 1825. It all started at Kathu Shrine – learn more about it!

Festival Rituals at Lim Hu Tai Su Shrine

During the Nine Emperor Gods Festival, the atmosphere around the Lim Hu Tai Su Shrine is electric.

The temple grounds and surrounding streets fill with vendors selling vegetarian food, identified by the yellow flags bearing the red เจ symbol that mark every je stall.

The smell of incense, the pop of firecrackers, and the sight of crowds in white cotton are constant companions from dawn until well after midnight.

Each year, the Lim Hu Tai Su Shrine serves as the starting point for a ceremonial street procession that winds through the neighbourhoods of Phuket Town before finishing at Saphan Hin Park. Devotees line the streets to welcome the passing deity palanquins, makeshift altars appear in the doorways of homes along the route, and firecrackers shatter the air to usher in good fortune.

Among the most extraordinary aspects of the festival is the practice of spirit mediumship. Chosen devotees enter trance-like states, acting as vessels for deities, and performing feats of ritual self-mortification. They pierce cheeks and tongues with items ranging from skewers to umbrellas, as an act of faith believed to absorb pain and misfortune from the wider community.

Unlike the opening piercing rituals at the smaller Jor Soo Gong Naka Shrine, where photographers elbow each other to get a better shot, the fourth-day ceremony at Lim Hu Tai Su Shrine seems much calmer, allowing ma songs to breathe.

Besides enduring body piercings with elaborate metal implements, these spirit mediums, believed to be temporary carriers of deities, will not just join the moving corridor of sound and smoke through the town. Before the festival ends, they’ll also participate in a firewalking ceremony, crossing beds of hot coals, and climb a bladed ladder as another sacred act of purification and faith.

Lim Hu Tai Su Shrine – Practical Visitor Information

Getting There

Lim Hu Tai Su Shrine is located on Yaowarat Road in Sam Kong, a neighbourhood of three hills in Phuket.

It is a ten-minute drive from central Phuket Old Town. Chillva Market is just a three-minute walk away, while reaching the shrine from the Lotus’s hypermarket (a convenient place to park a car) will take 13 minutes on foot.

Entrance Fee

The shrine is free to visit, though donations toward renovation and charitable projects are welcomed and warmly appreciated.

When to Visit

The shrine is open daily (6:30 am – 8:45 pm), and can be visited year-round.

Weekday mornings are quiet and contemplative, the kind of visit where you can actually hear the incense burn.

The experience is atmospheric after dark as well. The amber temple lighting and drifting smoke transform the space into something genuinely magical.

For the full spectacle, time your trip to coincide with the Nine Emperor Gods Festival in October. Come prepared for crowds, noise, and the very real possibility that something you witness will be difficult to explain to people back home. Book accommodation well in advance, as this period is one of Phuket’s busiest.

Dress Code

Modest clothing is essential. Shoulders and knees should be covered. During the ceremonial periods, many participants wear white as a symbol of purity, though visitors aren’t strictly required to do so.

Remove your shoes before entering any inner sanctum. Do not point your feet at any deity or sacred object. In Thai and Chinese temple culture, the feet are the lowest, least sacred part of the body, and directing them toward something holy is considered not just impolite but disrespectful.

Photography and Respect

Photography is generally tolerated in public areas, but discretion is critical. Never obstruct a ceremony to get a better angle.

Never touch ritual objects. Maintain a respectful distance from spirit mediums and their assistants unless invited closer.

This is not a performance staged for visitors. Treat the shrine like a living sacred space.

Where to Stay near Lim Hu Tai Su Shrine?

Sam Kong isn’t Phuket’s most tourist-heavy neighborhood, but if you’re looking for a convenient place to stay near Lim Hu Tai Su Shrine, you’re in luck. Formerly known as L’atelier Poshtel Phuket, Shade House – Phuket Downtown is a hostel-style property that offers a range of accommodation options – from a Grand King Room with a bathtub to bunk-bed dormitories.

Compare Shade House rates for your chosen dates on Booking, Agoda, Trip, and Expedia.   

As you walk a wooden boardwalk to the hotel entrance, framed by thick nautical ropes, you might wonder whether you’ve boarded a pirate ship or stumbled into an earthly embassy of the Borg Collective. A dramatic, narrow tower, painted matte black and adorned with a grid of ornate terracotta panels, gives an industrial-gothic feel. What a stark contrast to the Sino-Portuguese buildings being renovated next door!

The edgy aesthetic doesn’t stop at the black façade and the dark gravel front yard. From walls, chandeliers, and medieval-tarot-style illustrations on arched doors, to bedding, towels, and toothbrushes, it all celebrates the color of the coal. In this striking universe, shaded in dark gray and pitch black, the somber feel is counterpointed by the meows of curious house cats and a lush green corner with a backlit 3D moon sculpture.

I stayed in a Double Room with Mountain View (number 404), a simple, cozy 25-square-meter top-floor chamber that offered an unexpectedly lush view I loved watching during the rain. Raw, unfinished plaster walls gave this compact but characterful space a “brutalist-meet-boutique” quality. The bedside lamp, mounted on a globe base, completed the digital nomad fantasy, especially if you’re open to productive work-from-bed sessions.

Get the impression of my room at the Shade House, Phuket’s darkest hostel gem, in this YouTube short! 

From baroque excess to neon lights, Shade House uses eclectic décor to present itself as an urban, stylish environment. It is also a very friendly space, where you’ll want to order that Turkish coffee at midnight.

Looking for something luxurious in the neighborhood? Check out our review of the Hilltop Wellness Resort in Phuket!

Where to Eat near Lim Hu Tai Su Shrine?

During the Phuket Vegetarian Festival, there are plenty of food stalls offering meatless specialties around Lim Hu Tai Su Shrine.

For something more sit-down, here’s a recommendation you won’t see coming: head to the Lotus’s shopping mall. Hidden inside the Tesco hypermarket is a surprisingly soulful food.

Edo Ramen, an authentic Japanese restaurant, combines rich broths, fresh noodles, and carefully considered toppings into ingredient-forward, comfort-inducing bowls.

Tonkotsu and shoyu ramen are reliably excellent, but, during festival season, give Hokkaido-style Miso Ramen a try. The vegetarian version arrives with silken tofu cubes, creamy avocado slices, aburaage, an umami-rich nori crumble, white sesame seeds, and a scatter of spring onion. Priced just 129 baht (3.5 euros or 4 dollars), the vegetarian ramen is an extraordinary value.

Lim Hu Tai Su Shrine During Phuket Vegetarian Festival – Conclusion

In a destination that can feel relentlessly touristic, Lim Hu Tai Su Shrine is refreshingly, genuinely local. The street it sits on, lined with schools, hair salons, flower shops, and food stalls, tells you immediately that you’ve stepped out of the tourist circuit and into the lived reality of Phuket Town.

Chinese spirit mediums wrapped in barbed wire expose the Lim Hu Tai Su Shrine’s mystery like a puzzle worth unlocking

The island has no shortage of beautiful temples, vibrant street festivals, and cultural landmarks. But Lim Hu Tai Su Shrine holds a quiet power that sets it apart from the more popular Phuket spots. It is a place where centuries of Chinese-Thai heritage are not displayed for tourists; they continue, undimmed, in the everyday rhythm of worship and community.

The shrine is a tangible thread connecting modern Phuket to the Hokkien Chinese immigrants whose labor and culture shaped the island’s character. It honors a healing deity who continues to draw worshippers seeking relief, comfort, and blessing.

It also anchors one of the world’s most extraordinary religious festivals – the Nine Emperor Gods Festival or, more famously, Phuket Vegetarian Festival. Chinese spirit mediums wrapped in barbed wire, or with steel mechanic’s wrenches and pruning shears protruding through their entranced faces, expose the Lim Hu Tai Su Shrine’s mystery like a puzzle worth unlocking.

Physically demanding in its rituals, but less commercial than its Old Town counterparts, the Sam Kong temple offers a window into a living spiritual tradition that has endured for over a century.

Come with curiosity. Move with respect. And this quiet neighborhood temple, transformed into a center of ritual intensity, will offer you something most Phuket travel itineraries never do: a glimpse of the island as it really is.

Do you plan to visit the Lim Hu Tai Su Shrine during the Phuket Vegetarian Festival?
Pin this guide for later!

 

Disclosure: My stay at the Shade House was complimentary, but all opinions are my own.

Also, this post may contain affiliate links, meaning if you click on them and make a purchase, Pipeaway may make a small commission, at no additional cost to you. Thank you for supporting our work!

The post Lim Hu Tai Su Shrine in Phuket: Faith Over Swords, Sabers, and Sledgehammers appeared first on Pipeaway.

This boutique collection of high-end villas offers a level of privacy that’s becoming increasingly rare along the Andaman coast

You don’t really notice the silence at first. It sneaks up on you somewhere between the whisper of the palms and the ocean, that deep, deliberate hush Khao Lak seems to keep just for itself. There’s no crazy traffic, no blaring beach bars. Only the rhythmic pull of the Andaman Sea, waves brushing against the sand.

At Anda Mani Khao Lak Villas, that stillness feels intentional. As if making you exhale was part of the hospitality design. With only a handful of rooms (10!), this luxurious oceanfront retreat in southern Thailand offers the kind of seclusion most travelers picture when they say they want to “get away”.

If your idea of a holiday includes dodging tourist crowds, colored wristbands, and massive buffet lines, the Anda Mani hotel in Khao Lak is your sanctuary. This boutique collection of high-end villas offers a level of privacy that’s becoming increasingly rare along the coast.

For couples, honeymooners, and anyone who appreciates understated luxury escapes, Anda Mani is where the world slows down.

If you’ve been hovering over life’s pause button for a while now, this might be where you finally press it. But first, read my honest The Anda Mani Khaolak Beachfront Villas review!

Looking for a nice place to stay in Phuket? Check out The Hilltop Wellness Resort!

Hospitality Without the Performance

Just an hour’s drive north of Phuket International Airport, one gets the complete opposite of Patong: a secluded, intimate, and unhurried ribbon of sand. The road itself feels like a portal to another dimension, where life comes at a different pace. Entire villages appear to have stepped through that time-stopping wormhole.

Of course, the slowness might be deliberate, echoing memories of the 2004 Boxing Day, when a tsunami in Khao Lak claimed 4,000 lives in minutes. The 30-meter-high waves wiped out 230,000 victims across Asia, making it one of the deadliest natural disasters in history.

While houses and hotels can always be rebuilt, the survivors seem to have embraced a rhythm in which ‘rush’ and ‘modernity’ have lost priority. The only way to continue living in a place of such tragedy is by adopting respect for nature and calmness.

If you crave a bit more movement, Nang Thong and Bang Niang are close enough for strolls through local markets and people-watching from casual cafés. But the real wealth of tranquility lives in places like The Anda Mani. A swing swaying in the breeze, your body sinking into a bean bag chair… If the tide is the only schedule, days can drift by.

My arrival at The Anda Mani reflected that mindset. There was no grand lobby or scripted welcome speech. Just a cool towel, a glass of homegrown butterfly pea flower juice, a small skewered treat, and an unforced smile. The doors of my room were open. On the pillow lay a personal note from General Manager Kris Priyajana, promoting a feel-at-home philosophy “in our intimacy, seclusion, and opulent décor”.

Despite ambitious promises, the hospitality here didn’t feel performed. In a way that recalls the cult Boston TV bar “Cheers” (where everybody knows your name), The Anda Mani was more than a peaceful setting or décor. Above all, it was a down-to-earth place where calling the director by his first name or watching him casually pour you a glass of red wine seemed the most natural thing in the world.

Where is Anda Mani, and How to Get There?

The Anda Mani Khaolak Beachfront Villas (formerly known as X2 Khao Lak Anda Mani Resort) sits on Khao Lak’s southern beachfront, in the Lam Kaen area of Phang Nga Province. It’s just south of central Khao Lak, near Khao Lak–Lam Ru National Park.

For those who like sending postcards, the full Anda Mani Khao Lak address is: 7/9 Moo 2, Lam Kaen, Thai Mueang District, Phang Nga 82210, Thailand.

The nearest major gateway is Phuket International Airport (HKT), roughly 70 kilometers south of the Anda Mani Resort Khao Lak. The drive usually takes between 60 and 90 minutes, depending on traffic.

For a seamless, no-thinking-required arrival, arranging a private transfer through the hotel is the easiest option. The service costs 1,750 Thai baht per trip (47 euros, or 55 dollars).

The budget option would be taking a bus from Phuket heading toward Khao Lak or Takua Pa, hopping off at Khao Lak-Lam Ru National Park, and from there, grabbing a taxi for the final three kilometers to the resort. It’s not quite door-to-door luxury, but it gets the job done, with a bit of local flavor along the way.

A Suite Designed to Slow You Down

Surrounded by tall, privacy-providing hedges and character-securing potted plants, a stone-stepping path led me to the entrance of the suite, officially named Suite with Couple Bath. A name like that sets expectations. Naturally, I went straight for the bathroom.

And indeed, a double-ended bathtub dominated the open-plan bathroom layout. This soaking tub, complete with headrests on both sides, promises some great relaxation, especially for honeymoon couples.

I’ll admit initial hesitation about filling such a generous tub for a single occupant. But research is important, and I did treat myself to one marinating evening. In my eco-defense, it was a more foam, less water kind of bath. Of course, for everyone conscious about water consumption, a guilt-free walk-in rain shower stood ready.

Beneath a large mirror, a double vanity featured two square sinks, each neatly prepared with folded towels, including makeup-removal ones, a small but thoughtful touch that both guests and pristine white bed linen would appreciate.

The bedroom, naturally, took up most of the suite’s 45 square meters. The lack of extra décor, rugs, artworks, or other non-functional distractions emphasized the luxury of the open-floor space.

Well, parts of the furniture took on the aesthetic function in this contemporary design; black bedside lamps with sculptural, swirling bases and decorative pillows with a similar navy-blue twirl pattern felt like minimalist art in an intentionally clean and uncluttered setting.

A four-poster king-size bed with a simple cushioned bench at its foot, positioned on a light-toned floor against a caramel-colored wooden-paneled wall, gave the room a grounded, natural feel.

In addition to the shade lamps, subtle vertical light strips integrated into the headboard wall cast a soft, romantic glow.

The remaining walls were occupied by a low TV console, a counter with a stylish electric kettle, a bowl of fresh fruit, and a minibar, as well as multiple full-height windows flooding the room with natural daylight.

At turndown service, the most discreet housekeepers (I never saw them in person!) would thoughtfully roll down the blinds, gently tuck the bed cover, and leave a jar of colorful sweets behind. Even if it was a routine, it felt personal. A quiet way to say ‘good night’.

Anda Mani Khao Lak price

A night at The Anda Mani Khaolak Beachfront Villas can range from 150 euros in low season to 880 euros in high season.

To get the best rates for your chosen dates, check out their offer on these links: Booking, Agoda, Trip, or Expedia. You’ll also be able to see more Anda Mani Khao Lak real-life reviews and photos on these partner websites.

Architecture Steps Back

While the interiors of The Anda Mani Khaolak Beachfront Villas leaned into modern, design-forward hospitality, the exterior communicated heritage-style resort architecture.

Pavilion-like villas, with semi-classical pillars and decorative latticework framing their entrance, lent The Anda Mani a colonial-resort feel. Sections of the pitched, tiled roofs were fitted with solar panels, providing for half of the resort’s energy needs. Even if upmarket, the design here seemed more subtle than flashy, visually restraining the architecture in the landscape.

Arranged as a cluster of low-rise, detached buildings of varying sizes and layouts, rather than rising as a single, dominant structure, the set-up left clear breathing room. Lower density here equals higher privacy, an approach that makes particular sense for an adults-only resort.

More than architecture, The Anda Mani’s footprint was dominated by greenery, using vegetation as natural space dividers. The open green area was defined by tall palms, smaller ornamental trees, and neatly manicured lawns. Pathways cut through grass in gentle, organic lines, avoiding rigid grids.

Even the centrally located swimming pool followed this organic intention. Instead of a strict rectangle, its shape was softened with rounded and even hidden corners. Integrated into the greenery, this was more a relaxing garden pool than some beach club extravaganza.

Although the compound sits directly on the beach, it gives priority to the ocean view, framed by tall coastal trees. Rather than visually intruding with its own development at the shoreline, which would make the beachfront reveal quite dramatic, the choice of creating a layered, gradual transition from villas to pool to lawn to sea reinforced calmness as the most natural building block of The Anda Mani’s concept.

Breakfast Without an Alarm Clock, Dining With No Rush

Because of its intimate scale, dining at The Anda Mani Khaolak Beachfront Villas feels less like hotel service and more like access to a private club. The small number of guests allows food and beverage to flow naturally as an extension of the villa’s slow, sensory rhythm rather than a scheduled resort routine.

There are no warming trays here. All-day meals are cooked to order, which means that even a leisurely, near-noon start to the day still comes with breakfast served fresh to the table. Unhurried mornings are not just tolerated, they’re fully supported.

The breakfast spread covers familiar ground: a basket of pastries with butter and jams, tropical fruits, juices, and hot beverages, alongside the expected lineup of egg preparations, pancakes, and French toast. However, if you want to swap Western classics with Asian comfort dishes such as prawn congee, pork noodle soup, or fried curry rice with chicken, just say a word. I started one of my days with a delicious tofu pad Thai, so yes, even vegans can enjoy local flavors.

Sitting in a row of cushioned sofas, all deliberately facing the beach, I felt my meals were served with a special side dish – the sea view. Replacing formal dining chairs with softer bedsitters kept the atmosphere casual. It reminded me of those truly informal meals at home, where you just grab a handful of your favorite snacks and eat them glued in front of some exciting TV content. Except here, there was no screen. Just wide-open doors, directing your gaze to the asset that gave the resort its name – the Andaman Sea.

In the evening, when sunsets would paint the sky as a romantic backdrop, The Anda Mani’s on-site restaurant, The Kitchen (‘c’ in the logo replaced by the identical hypnotic blue whirl applied on bedroom cushions), mesmerized with Southern Thai menu.

Seafood harvested in those same waves absorbing the fading daylight, was turning into Khao Lak fine dining specialties: spicy salads, creamy stews, and crisp fried dishes featuring everything from clams and mussels to fish and crabs.

My mango salad with prawns, tomatoes, cashew nuts, and herbs was nicely refreshing, while Chef Nat’s signature white fish fillet in turmeric curry, finished with kaffir lime leaf chiffonade, Thai basil, and orchid garnish, paired beautifully with a glass of house wine.

Living at Andaman Speed

Days at The Anda Mani Khaolak Beachfront Villas have a gentle, unforced cadence. With a soft breeze, the low murmur of the sea, and palm fronds swaying overhead, you might start your morning with a quiet dip in the pool or a barefoot walk along the nearly empty beach, setting the tone for a slow, deliberate indulgence.

Afternoons follow suit. You might settle into a lounge chair with a book, sip a fresh smoothie at the poolside, or borrow a bicycle to explore other parts of the coastline.

For those who want a touch of adventure, The Anda Mani Khao Lak can arrange excursions. In the immediate neighborhood, I cooled off at Ton Pling Waterfall, discovered a natural fish spa while trekking toward the five-tiered Ton Chong Fa Waterfall, and continued exploring the Khao Lak-Lam Ru National Park on foot, hiking the coastal Hat Lek Nature Trail to the (not quite) Small Sandy Beach.

With more time to spare, the wider province opens up easily. Private boat trips lead to snorkeling in the Similan Islands or diving around the Surin Islands, while a visit to the Ban Nam Khem Tsunami Memorial Park offers a reflective counterpoint. Even in movement, maintain the same rhythm; take your time to absorb everything slowly, and resist the urge to tick boxes.

As the sun tilts toward the horizon, our Khao Lak oceanfront retreat continues in the same signature “speed”. The subtle shift into evening mode colors the pool area in reddish hues, while you can enjoy a candlelit dinner on the terrace.

For those craving an additional culinary adventure beyond the resort, a short journey leads to Krua Luang Ten. Even though the first beach is two kilometers away, this Michelin-recognized restaurant brings you closer to the Andaman Sea by placing your chair in the sand. Here, Southern Thai specialties such as hoi chak teen or boiled sea snails arrive simply prepared, served on lettuce and kaffir lime leaves with a spicy nam jim dip on the side. If snails are not available, the day’s fresh catch is written on a whiteboard (in Thai, though!). Whatever you choose, it will come with a complimentary platter of raw vegetables (cucumber, eggplant, bamboo shoots, herbs), served with a very intense fermented fish viscera curry – gaeng tai pla. Good luck exploring!

Anda Mani - Practical Details

Location: Khao Lak, Phang Nga, Thailand

Nearest Airport: Phuket International Airport, ~75 minutes by car

Distances: 10-min drive to Khao Lak center, as well as to Thap Lamu Pier, servicing boats to Similan and Surin Islands

Accommodation Type: Adults-only beachfront villas with a central outdoor pool

Best For: Couples, honeymooners, & peace-seekers

Check-In: From 3 pm

Check-Out: By 11 am

Price Range: Approximately EUR 150-880 per night (USD 180-1,040), depending on season and villa category

Reserve Your Room: Booking, Agoda, Trip, Expedia

Best Time to Visit: November to April for sunny, dry weather, and calm seas; the "Green Season" (May to October) offers lower rates, but rougher seas may limit swimming and boat trips

Activities Nearby: Snorkeling and diving in the Similan and Surin Islands, visiting local beaches (Nang Thong, Bang Niang), jungle walk at the Khao Lak Elephant Sanctuary, cultural excursions and memorial sites, wellness experiences and nature-based activities

The Anda Mani Khaolak Beachfront Villas Review – The Verdict

The Anda Mani Khaolak Beachfront Villas isn’t just a place to stay. It’s more like that hypnotic blue vortex that swallows you in, but, unlike the pillow, the lamp, or the menu application, it doesn’t remain decorative.

Probably the best vacation experiences are those that leave you wondering – how did so much time pass so quickly? The paradox of hospitality that encourages you to pause, breathe, and slow down is that you can hardly have enough of it.

At The Anda Mani, you get a tastefully designed, serene sanctuary, where hospitality feels instinctive rather than rehearsed

For couples, honeymooners, or anyone seeking luxury beachfront villas in Khao Lak, this property offers a rare combination of privacy, elegance, and attentive service.

Well, it must be said, even if I can say ‘Cheers’ to the fact that The Anda Mani is where everybody knows Kris’s name (the GM’s personal concierge guidance practically felt like a friend sharing insider knowledge), the resort staff could benefit from additional foreign languages training. The non-intrusive care is there, but the connection would be even stronger if front-of-house employees could effortlessly communicate with guests, less like servants, and more like interested equals.

Still, having the Andaman Sea as your front yard, with a view that’s perfect for catching those famous Khao Lak sunsets, makes it remarkably easy to forgive minor shortcomings. Framed by jungle and ocean, this is a place of generous beauty. If you want to hear the waves, not the neighbors, this is the correct address.

Adult-only properties can sometimes lean into pretension, especially in the way they communicate their added value. At The Anda Mani Khao Lak private residences, you do get a tastefully designed, serene sanctuary, where hospitality feels instinctive rather than rehearsed.

If you’re after quick thrills, busy beaches, and nightlife you won’t remember the next morning, look elsewhere. But for those who value calm, privacy, and a deeply romantic atmosphere, this is Khao Lak’s proud ambassador.

The Anda Mani Khaolak Beachfront Villas can turn your stay in southern Thailand from a trip into an experience. It will be a slow one, where time stretches like warm toffee in the sun, but it will also linger in your memory long after you’ve left its hypnotic shore. That’s a rare kind of luxury.

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Disclosure: My stay at The Anda Mani Khaolak Beachfront Villas was complimentary, but all opinions are my own.

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The post The Anda Mani Khaolak Beachfront Villas Review: Phang Nga’s Quiet Hideaway appeared first on Pipeaway.

This is where it all began. Exactly two centuries ago, when a traveling Chinese opera troupe fell ill in this small Phuket village, they followed Taoist purification rituals to recover. The locals imitated their vegetarian practice, and the epidemic stopped. Gratitude turned into an annual devotion. Kathu Shrine became the birthplace of what is now one of Thailand’s most extraordinary celebrations – the Nine Emperor Gods Festival, also known as Thetsakan Kin Che, or Phuket Vegetarian Festival.

Entranced spirit mediums, called ma song, walk the neighborhoods, their faces punctured with anything from swords to bicycle parts

During the nine festival days, dozens of shrines across the island summon divine energy through rituals that test both body and spirit. There’s koi hoi (fire-walking), followed by koi han (bridge-crossing), purifying ceremonies that cleanse believers of misfortune.

But the most astonishing rite that made the festival known worldwide unfolds not inside temples, but right on Phuket streets. As a moving exhibition of Thai cheek piercing, entranced spirit mediums, called ma songs or mah songs, walk the neighborhoods, their faces punctured with anything from swords to bicycle parts, while blessing local households and businesses.

The first of these street processions (known as iu keng or yew keng) typically sets off on the festival’s second day. Jo Su Gong Naka Shrine leads the self-mutilation parade.

On the eighth (or second-to-last) day of the Nine Emperor Gods Festival, Kathu Shrine’s mediums take the walk, on one of the island’s longest marching routes.

Today, we return to where the miracle began. Learn more about Kathu Shrine and its wild procession that, during its two centuries, couldn’t be stopped by monsoon downpours, global pandemics, or even wars. Welcome to the fascinating cradle of the Nine Emperor Gods Festival!

Where is Kathu?

Kathu is a district covering the green middle of Phuket Island, Thailand, halfway between Phuket Town (to the east) and Patong Beach (to the west).

Kathu sits in a lush valley framed by hills once rich with tin. Historically, it was the heart of the island’s mining industry.

In the 19th century, Chinese immigrants, mostly Hokkien from Fujian Province, arrived here to work the mines and build new lives. They brought with them their gods, rituals, and food. Over generations, their culture took deep root. Even today, a significant part of the Kathu population is Chinese.

Where to stay in Kathu?

Kathu isn't the most touristy area of Phuket. But if you insist on staying closer to the birthplace of the Phuket Vegetarian Festival (especially to catch the early-morning rituals at Kathu Shrine), there are consideration-worthy Kathu accommodation options.

Tinidee Golf Resort Phuket is one of Kathu's better-known mid-range hotels, combining good value with comfort. It can serve as a solid restful spot between festival processions. Compare prices for your dates on these direct links: Booking, Trip, Agoda, Expedia.

Botan Boutique Hotel is another possible quiet place to stay in Kathu. Well-reviewed, comfortable, and affordable, with rooms featuring shared kitchen access. Check rates for the property here: Booking, Trip, Agoda.

Of course, you can also choose to stay more centrally in Phuket Town, and catch the Kathu Shrine procession from there - like I did. Explore the most convenient accommodation options here.

Kathu Shrine History – 200 years of devotion

Kathu Shrine, also known as San Chao Kathu (內杼斗母宮), Aam Kathu, Lai Thu Tao Bo Keng, or Chai Tueng, was established in the early 1800s (probably 1817), during Phuket’s tin-mining boom.

The miners brought with them their ancestral Taoist practices, including devotion to the Nine Emperor Gods (Kiu Ong Tai Te), believed to control the elements and bring health, peace, and prosperity.

The shrine’s story is inseparable from the legend of a Chinese opera troupe. According to oral tradition, the troupe had been performing for the miners in a local Chinese theater. A large storm delayed their return home, and then a mysterious illness (likely malaria) struck. Following Taoist purification rites, the performers began a strict vegetarian fast and prayed to the Nine Emperor Gods for deliverance. When they recovered, the locals were impressed by the divine intervention.

In gratitude, the community invited the gods to reside permanently in Kathu and built a modest shrine to house the images of gods left by the opera troupe: Hiew Oi and Hiew Yian.

In 1825, the troupe brought additional statues, including Dianhu Nguan Soi or Kiew Ong Tai Te (the main Emperor God and, today, the principal deity of Kathu Shrine), Lee Lochia (the warrior deity), and Sam-Hu-Ong-Iah (Three Royal Lords, worshipped for healing and guidance). Arriving at what is today Saphan Hin, the gods were carried to Kathu Shrine, establishing the procession route and giving birth to the Phuket Vegetarian Festival.

Kathu Shrine’s first structure was simple, a wooden pavilion with a tin roof. Yet over time, it became a spiritual nucleus for the growing Chinese-Thai community.

Over the decades, the shrine expanded. It was rebuilt several times in brick, concrete, and gray marble, but it kept its modest, communal feel.

Unlike the larger, more ornate temples in Phuket Town, Kathu’s charm lies in its authentic connection to the island’s earliest waves of Chinese migration and devotion.

The shrine still houses early imports from China, including the original incense urn and a secret book of Taoist scriptures detailing how to organize the festival of abstinence and prayer, now known as the Phuket Vegetarian Festival (Tesagan Gin Jay).

Even as new shrines have emerged across Phuket, Kathu Shrine remains the spiritual axis of the event.

Check out how the spirit mediums celebrate the festival at the Lim Hu Tai Su Shrine!

Nine Emperor Gods Festival Returning to the Roots

Two hundred years after that miraculous opera troupe healing, Kathu Shrine is still the heart of Phuket’s Vegetarian Festival, always listed first in the program, among the 39 participating shrines. The annual Kathu Shrine procession, therefore, comes under special scrutiny.

If you watch my footage of the 2024 Kathu Shrine walk through Phuket Town, you’ll see a usual array of spikes penetrating mediums’ faces, but also a collection of more exotic props – rulers, tree branches, fire extinguishers, heavy construction tools, and even a cluster of children’s helium balloons.

Watch the full uncut Kathu Shrine procession here!

“The festival began as gratitude, not entertainment”, insisted Mr. Prasert Khaokitpaisan, President of Kathu Shrine, speaking to Phuket News. “People saw their prayers answered. They made a vow to continue the tradition, and that vow has lasted 200 years. However, in the past 20 or 30 years, the elements used by the spirit mediums have become more and more extreme. Tourists expect something extreme, so some mediums push beyond what our ancestors intended. But this is not the true spirit of the Vegetarian Festival.”

To return the Nine Emperor Gods Festival back on track and to its original healing purpose, especially during the mourning period for Thailand’s late Queen Sirikit, the Queen Mother, Kathu Shrine asked participants to tone it down. In this period of grief, noise levels were lowered, and ritual tools were limited to swords, knives, and needles no longer than an arm.

“When the spirits descend, the mediums lose awareness of their surroundings”, explained Kathu Shrine’s leader. “Using dangerous objects is not only disrespectful – it tortures the human body that carries the spirit. (…) Our ancestors built this festival to unite the community. We must now protect that unity, not divide it with competition or spectacle.”

For a piercing tradition on one Malaysian island, check out Thaipusam in Penang!

Kathu Shrine Procession Up Close

Walking since 6:45 am, when dawn just stretches its pale arms across the sky, a river of white-clad devotees flows towards smoky Saphan Hin, the open coastal park in southern Phuket. The route is approximately 10 kilometers one way, making the full round-trip journey a spiritual half-marathon.

A chain reaction of firecrackers tears open the morning, clashing with the cacophony of drums and bells. Among them, the ma songs, their bodies adorned, cheeks pierced with objects that defy belief – a purification ritual that looks like a spectacle of pain.

They were all chosen through a divination ritual called poi. In the Thai version of The Hunger Games, tributes’ names are written on slips of paper. Overseen by shrine elders, the process that may include tossing sacred wooden blocks or interpreting other divine signs, ensures that the most worthy candidates are chosen. If the selected person cannot commit, a member of their family has to take their place as ma song, the horse of the gods.

There is no payment for carrying the deity through flesh and spirit, only the privilege of channeling the gods and blessing the community aching for that divine encounter.

Residents and business owners line Phuket roads with altars of fruit and flowers, believing that interacting with ma songs will ward off misfortune, illness, or even a bit of romantic disappointment.

The climax of the Kathu Shrine procession comes with the passing of the Tu Lian, a large palanquin, the vehicle of the deity itself. Firecrackers explode at believers’ feet in a hypnotic rhythm, turning streets into a trembling chaos.

Kathu Shrine is known for blessings that deter illnesses and attract love. Though the spectacle can look terrifying, everyone wants to be caught in the sparks of this raw, living storm.

Nine Emperor Gods Festival – From Kathu to Catharsis

Whether subdued during a period of royal grief or guided by a renewed commitment to its early spiritual intentions, a deradicalized version of the Phuket Vegetarian Festival follows Kathu Shrine’s vision that pain can be relieved without insisting on shock.

“Eating vegetarian is about cleansing the mind and body, about compassion and peace. That’s the real purity we must protect”, explained Mr. Prasert.

Nine Emperor Gods Festival is a ritual that began in gratitude and endures in faith

Those nine days in the ninth month of the Chinese lunar calendar (depending on the year, falling in September or October) mean more than just abstaining from meat. Devotees also honor the Five Precepts: refraining from killing, stealing, lying, sexual misconduct, and intoxication.

Though temporary, this discipline offers moral lessons for the rest of the year too, strengthening the belief that renunciation can be an investment, bringing fortune not just to ourselves, but also to the community around us.

The white clothing, the vegetarian diet, the relentless devotion – all these elements contribute to a collective catharsis. It is a ritual that began in gratitude and endures in faith.

As the ma songs emerge from trance, leaving behind Phuket streets littered with red firecracker husks and over 22 million baht in tourism revenue, their eyes look past the crowd, focused on something beyond sight. Through the chaos, perhaps the idea of peace becomes more tangible.

What’s your take on Kathu Shrine’s procession during the Nine Emperor Gods Festival?
Comment below, and pin this article for later!

Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links, meaning if you click on them and make a purchase, Pipeaway may make a small commission, at no additional cost to you. Thank you for supporting our work!

The majority of photographs in this article are screenshots from Ivan Kralj's Pipeaway Walk video during the 2024 edition of the Phuket Vegetarian Festival.
The exceptions are:
Machine gun ma song - Joseph Ferris III, licensed under CC BY 2.0
Kathu Shrine deity figures and shrine exterior - copyright Tourism Authority of Thailand

The post Kathu Shrine, Phuket: The Birthplace of Thailand’s Nine Emperor Gods Festival appeared first on Pipeaway.

Nestled above the hustle and bustle of the largest Thai island, this is not a hotel you accidentally wander into. Hilltop Wellness Resort is a destination you discover with an intention, when you decide to nourish your body and mind.

Worth 40 billion dollars, the wellness economy is one of Thailand’s key soft powers

In 2025 (data until August 17th), Thailand saw a 7.04 % drop in foreign arrivals year-over-year. Now, the country is betting big on the wellness industry to reverse the trend. At Osaka Expo, Thailand is presenting itself as Phoumi Vimana (Land of Immunity), showcasing everything from medicinal herbs to Thai massage and cuisine. Worth 40 billion dollars, the wellness economy is one of Thailand’s key soft powers, and almost half of the wellness-focused properties are located in the country’s southern provinces – Phang Nga, Krabi, and Phuket.

On the serene hills of Ratsada, the northeastern fringe of Phuket Town, better known for Rassada Pier, the jumping-off point for southern island-hopping adventures, Hilltop Wellness Resort isn’t just gazing down on the growing wellness tourism sector. It is spearheading and shaping it.

If you’re looking for a Thai retreat that binds together yoga, wellness, and cultural immersion, this hotel is a great spot to put balance back in check.

Is this the rejuvenation sanctuary you’ve been looking for? Dive into our in-depth Hilltop Wellness Resort review, unpacking everything from facilities and programs to dining and service, and decide for yourself!

If you want to see what regular guests think of Hilltop Wellness Resort, read their reviews on Tripadvisor.

First impressions – A modern escape in the Phuket hills

“My name is Boy“, said the driver as he pulled up to collect me in the center of Phuket Town.

Fifteen minutes later, we were entering the quieter subdistrict of Ratsada. While one could technically reach Hilltop Wellness Resort via public transport, this private transfer is the first step in peeling layers of stress off your vacation.

If you’d have to go from Phuket Airport to Hilltop Wellness Resort, the airport bus 8411 stops at the By Pass Highway (right by the BMW Showroom). From there, it’s just a matter of crossing the street (a leap-of-faith challenge) and hiking uphill. This ride takes 1.5 hours and costs 100 baht (3 USD).

But if you opt for the resort’s transfer (1,000 baht per car, 1,200-1,500 baht for a van), you can slice the travel time in half and, due to door-to-door service, immediately start trading jetlag for relaxation time.

Elevated above the frenetic pace of the urban jungle, the modern, minimalist architecture of the Hilltop Wellness Resort seemed like a safe nest in a real one. In a cascading layout seamlessly integrated with the slope of the hill, and surrounded by lush greenery, the hotel’s sleek, glass-heavy design, maximizing natural light, was promising more than mere panoramic views and a tranquil neighborhood.

Wellness-forward ethos was hinted by the lemongrass scent lingering in the lobby, one of my favorite Asian fragrances I can hardly say ‘no’ to when offered at the massage table.

A chilled coconut adorned with a delicate frangipani flower, an efficient check-in with friendly staff, as well as a clean and modern vibe of the peaceful reception area, all instilled a sense of calmness, making the arrival experience at Hilltop Wellness Resort a smooth start to recharging.

This secluded luxury resort in Phuket was making it easy to disconnect from the outside world and reconnect with oneself.

See Hilltop Wellness Resort from a bird’s-eye view on YouTube!

Ready to unwind above the treetops? Check availability and prices at Hilltop Wellness Resort.

Room experience – zen with a pool view

The 4-star Hilltop Wellness Resort offers a mix of rooms, suites, and studios. I had the pleasure of settling into a bright suite with a pool view, a spacious 54-square-meter cocoon on the fourth floor.

Split into two distinct areas (living and sleeping), with a kitchenette and bathroom tucked in, it struck that sweet spot between cozy apartment and boutique retreat.

The walls’ color scheme combined turquoise and white, softened by ribbed textures, giving a fresh vibe with a hint of retro chic.

Living room

The living room, in a Scandinavian-inspired design and clean layout, had an open plan, flowing from the hallway to a wide, sunlit window wall. The natural light flooding from the floor-to-ceiling glass made the space feel open and airy.

The compact kitchenette had a black Hitachi fridge, a single-bowl sink, and a little granite countertop with a microwave and a kettle. If you were not committed to full cooking (which you shouldn’t be when the resort’s restaurant exists), the kitchenette was a functional add-on to the room, in my case, used mainly to have a cold bottle of water or a quick cup of tea at hand.

Beside it, a petite dining corner stood ready with two blue-terracotta chairs and an in-room food menu displayed on the table, next to a vase of artificial flowers bravely pretending to be real.

The seating area leaned into soft tones of teal and orange, with two armchairs and a three-seater sofa gathered around twin round coffee tables. Beneath it all, a geometric rug cut the chill of the white tiled floor and tied the lounge together.

One design detail stood out: instead of leaving the flat-screen TV to glare awkwardly as a black rectangle on the wall, it had been framed with a minimalist mirror into a clever double-purpose panel with curved corners. It was a softened design choice, consistent with the resort’s tendency to replace hard edges with calm curves.

Besides the TV, a rolled yoga mat and yoga blocks on a floating shelf were mounted on the wall. A thoughtful touch for wellness-focused guests.

Bedroom

The bedroom carried the same calming DNA as the living area; soft pastel tones, geometric throw pillows, and another stylish rug that gave the space both personality and poise.

At its heart was a king-size bed that practically begged you to sprawl out after a day of poolside lounging (or maybe a jungle hike?). Facing the bed, another wide-screen TV.

A lounge chair sat invitingly in the corner, ideal for leafing through the provided Vipassana Meditation book.

Massive windows opened up to views of the pool deck, but also of an elevated walkway. Privacy-minded guests might want to keep the sheer curtains drawn. At dawn, the heavier blackout drapes will block out the light of the rising sun.

Soft-glow lamps on the bedside tables kept the mood gentle, while another artificial plant by the window was softening the modern design, bringing the illusion of nature indoors.

Bathroom

The bathroom continued the resort’s theme of clean, streamlined design. A glass-enclosed walk-in shower dominated the space, fitted with both a rain showerhead and a handheld option. Water pressure? Solid enough to make you linger longer than you should.

A built-in ledge kept things practical, stocked with shampoo, conditioner, and body soap in refillable dispensers, a small nod to sustainability. A towel rack, installed inside the shower area, was convenient for drying off right after usage.

The toilet was a standard Western-style fixture, elevated by a folded towel at its base shaped into a seashell fan, signaling hospitality care.

Balancing the light walls and tiles, a dark brown vessel sink morphed into the countertop, giving the space just enough contrast to feel modern without trying too hard.

It wasn’t an over-the-top, marble-and-gold kind of bathroom, but it didn’t need to be. Its calm, spa-like atmosphere made the daily rituals of showering and freshening up feel like small acts of self-care.

Experience Hilltop Wellness Resort’s room in this hotel walk-through video!

Expedia visitors especially value Hilltop Wellness Resort's amenities, rating it 9.4 out of 10. Check out what else they have to say!

Wellness facilities & programs

As inviting as the suites are, the Hilltop Wellness Resort is far more than a stylish place to sleep. It’s a destination designed to help you reconnect with yourself. The core of this Thai wellness retreat is its commitment to a holistic journey, where wellness programs can cater and customize to various needs. The resort’s wellness focus centers on movement, breath, and mindful eating.

Hill Club – yoga, meditation & fitness

For those who crave an active recharge, the Hill Club offers a state-of-the-art fitness center featuring a full range of cardio and weight-training equipment, lined in front of the panoramic views of Phuket City.

Next to the gym, a cozy studio hosts classes of Vinyasa / Yin / Hatha yoga every morning and afternoon. The room was of a perfect size for typically three or four participants at a time. The mirrored wall reflected the outdoor greenery, but also allowed even beginners to follow along with ease. The instructors – Heini, Yine, and Bamboo – guided us with patience, making practice approachable whether you were a seasoned yogi or a stiff first-timer.

Though I regularly found myself the only man in the room, the atmosphere during the yoga sessions was welcoming and inclusive. Hilltop Wellness Resort tends to attract solo female travelers on wellness journeys from across the globe. I had the privilege of meeting inspiring women like Marjie from the USA and Julia from Germany. Between shared stretches and shared breakfasts, conversations flowed naturally – stories of life, growth, and adventure adding depth to the retreat experience.

Besides daily yoga trainings in the studio (equally pleasurable when the sun shines over a yellow-flowered tree dominating the view, as well as when raindrops glide down the window wall), we powered up our experience with a sunrise yoga session. Staged on the resort’s rooftop every Tuesday and Friday, this early wellness ritual would start during the dark hours and culminate as the first sun rays break over the horizon. What a way to start a day! Yoga was truly the cornerstone of the Hilltop Wellness Resort’s ethos.

Thermal Zone – heat, detox & city views

A separate flight of stairs led to a small Thermal Zone. Open daily from 1:00 to 7:00 pm (the door was a sliding one, in case it would confuse you into believing it’s locked when it isn’t, like in my brain-switched-off case), this tucked-away corner of the hotel, with sweeping views of Phuket cityscape through a curved glass wall, offered an elevated wellness experience.

Besides small boxes for valuables, there are no lockers here, so I recommend arriving at the Thermal Zone already dressed in quite nice kimono robes or spa sarongs provided in each room.

Once inside, you can switch between cool rinses in the shower cubicle and 15-minute sessions in the herbal steam room, where old healing techniques meet modern technology, and the full-spectrum infrared sauna, the first of its kind in Phuket. Unlike a standard sauna, this one penetrates deeper into muscles, aiding recovery but also promoting skin rejuvenation.

The experience doesn’t have to end there. Finish your detox ritual with one of the signature wellness smoothies at the bar, or serve yourself a cup of antioxidant matcha, locally sourced pandan tea, and even some popcorn at the nearby Plearn Lounge, a blend between a boutique hotel library and a modern co-working space.

A motivational poster on the wall read, “Think positive, feel positive, live positive”, adding a friendly, if a bit Instagram-influencer-esque, energy to the space. This chill lounge was an ideal common zone for reading a book, pretending to write a novel, playing a board game, or investing in other forms of casual socializing under a wrought-iron chandelier.

Cave Spa – ancient comfort in modern form

The spa is the star of any wellness retreat. Hilltop Wellness Resort operates the Cave Spa. While not located in an actual cave, it somehow does drag you into the original home of humanity: warm, embracing, and deeply secure. Rather than a flashy pampering session, the experience felt more intimate.

I already exposed myself as weak in front of the notes of lemongrass. Among the three signature aromatherapy rituals offered, my pick was an easy one: the one entitled Sense of Belonging, described as a grounding and sleep-inducing remedy.

An experienced Thai masseuse started the treatment with a traditional foot washing ceremony, cleansing of feet, yes, but also of daily stress, travel dust, and to-do lists.

In the massage room, a calm touch was replaced with a tea-leaf body scrub, after which I was offered a cup of tea and a soak in a freestanding tub where white, yellow, and orange petals floated in a milky bath.

The massage itself lasted about two hours; lemongrass and lavender showcased their ability to replace anxiety with comfort. It was a professional experience of a skill tested and improved through centuries of Thai healing tradition, now offered to everyone seeking an authentic path to vitality.

If you want to learn the therapeutic secrets of Thai massage, join the course at Thai Oasis Spa School.

Infinity pool – the liquid heart

At the heart of the Hilltop wellness offerings was a showstopper – an infinity pool. With an eye-catching resort logo embedded in the center (stylized as a yin-yang leaf), this rectangular pool on an elevated deck was a standout feature, spilling straight into the horizon and offering panoramic views of the area.

Surrounded by the sets of sun loungers and umbrellas, mirroring the same two colors dominating the hotel rooms (the blue of the pool, and the orange of the parasols), hotel’s centerpiece was an extension of the overall brand identity, but also a functional focal point, whether you were looking for a kiddy pool with a waterfall spout fountain (rain curtain for a quick neck massage), or a deeper main section, perfect for morning laps or tranquil floating at sunset.

Whenever I visited it during my three-day stay, the pool never felt crowded. In fact, I often had the entire space to myself – a luxury in itself.

Sadly, even the swim-up Sabai Bar, which was adding a tropical vacation vibe, had no server in sight during those visits. While it seemed to be a cool place to order a poolside smoothie or a cocktail from, I always had to fetch mine from the restaurant instead.

📌 Quick Booking Tip

➡️ Check Hilltop Wellness Resort on Booking.com

➡️ Compare deals on Agoda

➡️ See more reviews on Trip.com

➡️ Book with Expedia

💡 Pro tip: Prices can vary depending on season and platform, so it’s worth checking at least two sites before reserving.

Thai Heritage Activities

Hilltop Wellness Resort had a strong offer of local trips (both active and relaxed) and Thai heritage activities available to guests throughout the week.

With dedicated resort guides, you could go temple hopping, browse vibrant night markets, stand-up paddle through mangrove forests, hike to Black Rock Viewpoint, or explore the rainforest at Khao Phra Thaeo Wildlife Sanctuary.

For a deeper cultural immersion, the resort designed a rotating schedule of hands-on Thai heritage workshops. You could try your hand at preparing local specialty dishes, desserts, and cocktails, handcrafting herbal soaps, playing traditional instruments, dyeing fabrics in a Thai Batik Painting class, or even stepping into the ring for an introduction to Muay Thai martial arts.

During my stay, I joined a one-on-one flower garland workshop (Phuang Malai). My teacher was Nam, the Hilltop Wellness Resort’s housekeeper, doubling as a floral decoration artisan. She showed me how to thread, weave, and layer jasmine, rose, and dahlia blossoms on a string, in intricate patterns.

Thanks to my teacher’s patience and her openness to taking things less seriously, the 2-hour fun workshop went by in a flash. It resulted in not one, but two lovely flower garlands. It also brought a special memory of connecting with a hotel employee whose discreet room-prepping job usually stays behind the scenes, taken for granted.

In keeping with the tradition of Thai flower garlands as religious offerings or gifts, Nam and I went down to the hotel entrance and, after a short prayer, left one garland at a small shrine. I gifted the other one to a local friend.

Dining at Plearn Restaurant – Wellness on a Plate

Hilltop Wellness Resort excels at the Plearn Restaurant, an all-day dining restaurant on its fifth floor, delivering elegant design, attentive service, and a wow-factor view.

Panoramic glass walls stretched the full length of the restaurant, making the most of Phuket’s cityscape, rolling hills, and lush surroundings.

The interior decor looked chic, with plush leather seating, and tables spaced with intention, enabling both privacy and view appreciation. The attention to detail, visible in golden cutlery, glass straws, and lotus-folded napkins, hinted a refined gastronomy.

At breakfast, a boutique buffet experience mixed Western staples with Thai flair. More resembling a curated café than a traditional hotel sprawl, marble-top tables offered a mix of fruit, cereals, pastries, and make-your-own-smoothie-bowl ingredients. For more local flavor, hot dishes such as pad Thai or massaman curry were available to order. The highlight was a Thai dessert section on a rustic bamboo stand, presenting trays with khanom (traditional Thai sweets) such as rainbow-layered jelly-like sweets (khanom chan), coconut-coated bites (khanom tom), and miniatures shaped like fruits and veggies (look choop).

The award-winning Plearn Restaurant, however, defended its title of one of the top Thai restaurants in Phuket during lunch and dinner hours.

Chef’s set menus took guests on a culinary tour across four distinctive regions (Northern, North-Eastern, Central, and Southern Thailand), and could be paired with terroir-inspired cocktails, or even signature mixtures that, for instance, reflected tom yum soup flavors. Good to know: happy hour is from 4 to 7 pm, when you can get 2-for-1 cocktails and beers.

In a true “travel global, drink local” philosophy, even classic cocktails at Plearn were based on Phuket-produced rum. In the drink menu, specialty coffees were also worth exploring (fruit espressos introduced coconut, orange, or passionfruit into your favorite hot/cold drink), while simpler herbal juices such as matoom provided an easy post-work recovery.

Pick your favorite wellness cocktail here!

The extensive food menu, accessible on restaurant tablets (a modern and practical solution that lets you visualise a dish), was filled with traditional meat and plant-based specialties, elevated with modern presentation. The most famous Thai soups, such as kaeng som or tom yum goong, were finished at the table in a siphon, delivering the kitchen’s lab-like experimentation as a theater in front of your hungry eyes.

See how tom yum goong is served at Plearn Restaurant!

Chef’s set menu number 3, an umami-forward journey, was among my favorites. Fishcake with cucumber salsa, apple and mango sauce, followed by pork melting in the mouth with hung lae curry and crisp tortillas, and rounded up with khao kati (coconut-milk rice) with grilled chicken and sweet-and-sour papaya salad, was a combination that didn’t leave much room for a dessert.

But do make some! Plearn’s interpretation of Thailand’s classic mango sticky rice, accompanied by a fried sticky rice spring roll and a refreshing ice cream, was a delight for both eyes and palate.

Whether you chose the upscale interior of Hilltop Wellness Resort’s restaurant, or the breezy terrace, with a soundtrack of modern pop ballads (from Lewis Capaldi‘s “Someone You Loved” and Maroon 5‘s “Girls Like You” to Sia‘s “Chandelier” or “Unstoppable”), dining/drinking experience here felt like a modern extension of the resort’s wellness focus, aiming to restore you from within.

The guests who booked Hilltop Wellness Resort through Agoda especially value its service, rating it 8,9 out of 10. Read what they think here.

Who Hilltop Wellness Resort is (and isn’t) for

Hilltop Wellness Resort knows its audience, and it isn’t trying to be everything to everyone.

It’s a natural fit for:

• Couples seeking a romantic spa escape or honeymoon
• Solo travelers on a wellness journey (female yogis, meditation enthusiasts, and even yoga teachers will feel instantly at home)
• Remote workers needing peace in nature

Hilltop Wellness Resort is sadly not suitable for:

• Guests with mobility issues (accessibility may be challenging due to the number of stairs between facilities)
• Families with young children
• Travelers craving nightlife or beach access (if you are a partygoer, you’ll be better off staying in Patong)

Do you want to extend your journey in Thailand by heading north from Phuket? When in Khao Lak, consider staying at The Anda Mani Beachfront Villas!

Hilltop Wellness Resort Review – Final Verdict

Overall, my 3-day stay at Hilltop Wellness Resort was a pleasant experience, and I would gladly return.

As Thailand’s leading wellness resort, Hilltop strikes an elegant balance between calm and contemporary.

If you’re searching for a stylish hideaway with wellness at its core, it’s one of the best value-for-money choices in Phuket.

Pros:

✔️ A generous yoga program (2-3 sessions per day should satisfy even the most obsessed)

✔️ Thai heritage activities (securing genuine, memorable interactions with the staff)

✔️ Chic and spacious rooms

✔️ Friendly, intuitive, and graceful restaurant service

✔️ Panoramic views (while the resort cannot influence the state of infrastructure surrounding it, it still provides an opportunity to see Phuket from above)

Cons:

❌  No direct beach access (but that’s part of the charm)

❌  Limited nightlife or bar scene

❌   Attentiveness for the poolside bar service could be improved

❌  A reliance on plastic plants in décor (with flower garland workshop and lush natural surroundings, the fake flower choice feels out of place)

Hilltop Wellness Resort won’t be only a destination for those looking to flee urban jungles. They plan to embrace wellness leaders who embody a lifestyle many of us aspire to

With sunrise-to-sunset yoga, exceptional spa offerings, and upcoming mindfulness and meditation retreats in the jungle, Hilltop Wellness Resort and its care for their guests’ bodies, souls, and minds have a bright future ahead.

It won’t be only a destination for us, westerners, looking to flee our urban jungles. Hilltop Wellness Resort plans to embrace yoga teachers, monks, and wellness leaders who embody a lifestyle many of us aspire to.

Because in truth, even when our lives may look like Zen from the outside, we all need intentional breaks. Perched above Phuket’s sweeping vistas, Hilltop Wellness Resort is perfectly positioned to become a unique hideaway to design and execute our recovery.

How to book Hilltop Wellness Resort

While you can use Hilltop Wellness Resort with a day pass (a drop-in visit includes a yoga session, access to the pool, gym, and sauna for 600 baht, 16 euros, or 18.50 dollars), for the most fulfilling experience, aim at staying for at least several nights.

To read other guests’ reviews, see more photos of Hilltop Wellness Resort, and compare prices for your dates, check Hilltop Wellness Resort on Booking, Agoda, Trip, or Expedia.

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Disclosure: My stay at the Hilltop Wellness Resort was complimentary, but all opinions are my own.

Also, this post may contain affiliate links, meaning if you click on them and make a purchase, Pipeaway may make a small commission, at no additional cost to you. Thank you for supporting our work!

The post Hilltop Wellness Resort Review: Phuket Retreat Where Even Yoga Teachers Go for Detox appeared first on Pipeaway.

Two decades after the deadliest tsunami in Thailand, Ban Nam Khem is a testament to resilience and remembrance

Southern Thailand, particularly Khao Lak in Phan Nga Province, bore the brunt of the waves. At the heart of this devastation lay Ban Nam Khem, a small fishing village that lost a quarter of its population.

Today, two decades after the deadliest tsunami in Thailand, Ban Nam Khem is not just a place of tragedy but a testament to resilience and remembrance.

In the special episode of Pipeaway Walks, we follow the coastline of Khao Lak, tracing a path from the luxurious Pullman Khao Lak Resort to the solemn Ban Nam Khem Tsunami Memorial Park. It’s a walk that bridges the serene present with a haunting past, offering a chance to reflect and honor the lives lost.

Looking for a quiet hideaway in Khao Lak? You'll fall in love with The Anda Mani Beachfront Villas! Check them out. 

A Journey Along Bang Muang Beach

The walk begins at the Pullman Khao Lak Resort, a luxurious 5-star property that opened its doors in 2021, reintroducing the permission to associate water with the world of fun.

The main 1000-sqm pool, villas that offer 41-sqm private pools, and amenities ranging from a swim-up bar to a twin-looped water slide are complemented by an environmental sustainability program that addresses water conservation and the hotel’s broader ecological impact.

Pullman’s pristine setting along Bang Muang Beach is a stark contrast to the memories etched into the coastline defined by the Andaman Sea.

As we tread further along the beach, the sand gives way to the Ban Nam Khem Tsunami Memorial Park, a space created in 2006 to honor those who perished in the disaster. This poignant location tells a story not just of loss but of recovery and reverence. Every step reveals a deeper layer of connection to the events of that fateful day.

Ban Nam Khem Tsunami Memorial Park – A Place of Remembrance

The central feature of the park is a large curved wall, its design mimicking the shape of a tsunami wave. Engraved on its surface are plaques bearing the names of victims, both locals and international visitors, who lost their lives when the waves struck.

Standing before this wall, you cannot help but feel the weight of what these names represent – lives abruptly and tragically cut short. Some memorialized victims were just 10 years old.

At the edge of the memorial stands a golden statue of a seated Buddha, its back facing the Andaman Sea. Villagers believe this Buddha offers protection for those venturing into the waters, so they worship it before embarking on new journeys.

Spirit shrines in the park further enhance its spiritual atmosphere, with offerings that often include bottles of famous fizzy drinks. It all feeds the spiritual solace, as locals and visitors alike pay their respects in quiet prayers.

One particularly poignant element of the memorial is the small fishing boat that once carried a member of the Thai royal family. The grandson of the Thai king lost his life during the tsunami, a sobering reminder that this disaster spared no one, regardless of status.

For those eager to deepen their understanding, the Tsunami Memorial Museum in Nam Khem, just 1.3 kilometers away, offers broader insights into the local impact of the tsunami and the community’s recovery. There is no entrance fee for the museum (open every day except for Mondays and Tuesdays, from 08:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.), the same as for the entire Ban Nam Khem Tsunami Memorial Park (open daily from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m.).

If you’re planning a visit, book your stay at Pullman Khao Lak. Check out the latest offers and reviews on platforms like Booking, Agoda, and Trip.com. 

Khao Lak Tsunami – Keep the Memory Alive

Khao Lak has rebuilt itself as a premier travel destination, yet places like Ban Nam Khem ensure that the past is conserved. They stand as a reminder of nature’s power and the human spirit’s ability to endure.

By walking the path along Khao Lak’s tsunami beach, you’re honoring a story that must never be forgotten

Walking from Pullman Khao Lak to Ban Nam Khem Tsunami Memorial Park is more than a physical journey. It’s a reflective experience that allows you to connect with history in a meditative, deeply personal way. By visiting sites like these, we honor the memories of those who were lost and learn from the resilience of those who survived.

In a world often driven by leisure and escapism, it’s crucial to make space for remembrance. Beaches may be beautiful, but a travel experience that embraces history is both enriching and humbling. By walking the path along Khao Lak’s tsunami beach, you’re not just exploring. You’re honoring a story that must never be forgotten.

Watch the full sixth episode of Pipeaway Walks as we explore Khao Lak, from the luxurious Pullman Resort to the heartfelt tributes of Ban Nam Khem Tsunami Memorial Park.

Don’t forget to subscribe to the Pipeaway channel for more journeys into the meaningful corners of our world.

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Nimman night markets are a feast for your senses and your Instagram feed

Nimman night markets are the stars of our latest Pipeaway Walks YouTube episode. Take half an hour, and stroll with us to feel the vibrant energy of the place, with a whirlwind of sights, sounds, and flavors.

Before you start itching to book a flight to Chiang Mai, let’s dive into what makes the Nimman night markets a feast for your senses and your Instagram feed.

Nimman’s History and Culture

Nimmanhaemin Road wasn’t always the bustling hub of creativity it is today. It started humbly as a quiet residential street before, in the 2010s, blossoming into a hotspot for digital nomads, hipsters, and hungry travelers. Picture a Thai grandma’s spice rack meeting a Silicon Valley co-working space, and you’ve got Nimman’s vibe.

Night markets are some of the most recognizable Chiang Mai attractions. But here, these aren’t just places to shop – they’re stages where tradition and innovation dance together, fueled by street food and artisanal flair.

And okay, at Nimman, everything may seem overpriced, especially if you are used to Chiang Mai being gentle on your wallet.

Where to stay in Nimman?

If you want to stay close to the heart of the action, consider booking Zivi Nimman. Their double bedrooms get stellar reviews! Depending on the date of your booking, you can find them already at 3.400 baht per night (approx. 95 euros or 100 dollars). For a budget accommodation, choose the modernly designed Bed Addict Hostel. A bed in a dormitory can be found for 500 baht (14 euros or 15 dollars).

Exploring Nimman Night Markets

One Nimman – The Centerpiece of Night Market Culture

At the heart of the neighborhood is the One Nimman lifestyle mall, a photogenic hotspot that blends European piazza charm with Northern Thai Lanna artistry. By night, its courtyards transform into markets where every stall seems to whisper: “You know you want this.”

Nimman Street Food Night Market

Hungry? You’re in luck. Vendors here offer everything from grilled squid (perfectly charred and smoky) to hashimaki and spicy khanom krok (those little coconut milk pancake bombs with a fiery twist). Add to that a parade of meat, fish, and veggie skewers, corndogs, grass jelly desserts, dinosaur doughnuts, and chocolate-dipped strawberries, and you’ll be rolling home instead of walking. Oh, and don’t miss the rich green curry noodles and yaki suki for the ultimate comfort food!

If you are a fan of plant-based street food, you should visit Phuket Vegetarian Festival!

White Market

This weekend-only gem offers handcrafted Japanese-Lanna ceramics, textiles so soft you’ll want to hug them, and jewelry that screams “I’m unique!” You’ll often see artisans at work, like one painting portraits or another spinning clay into masterpieces right before your eyes.

Craft Market

If vintage-style clothes, quirky trinkets, and upcycled masterpieces are your thing, welcome to your personal artisanal treasure hunt. Bonus points if you leave with something that makes your friends go: “Where did you get that?!”

Beyond One Nimman – Other Markets to Explore

Night market magic isn’t confined to Nimman alone. Venture a little further, and you’ll stumble upon more gems:

Think Park Night Market

It’s got that chill, laid-back vibe where you can browse, snack, and people-watch all at once. Think less “mad dash” and more “slow stroll.”

Rincome Night Market

Small but mighty, this market offers a cozy selection of street food and locally made goodies. Perfect for when you’re in the mood for discovery without the overwhelm.

Chiang Mai University Night Market

If you’ve ever wanted to eat like a student without actually having to study, this is your spot. Cheap, cheerful, and packed with flavors – from grilled skewers to sweet roti pancakes.

Why Nimman Night Markets Stand Out

These markets aren’t just about shopping; they’re about soaking up an ambiance that’s as eclectic as it is electric. Whether you’re digging through vintage clothing racks or inhaling the aroma of freshly grilled skewers, you’ll find yourself smiling. Why? Because these markets manage to feel both upscale and approachable, like a five-star restaurant serving street food on fine china (well, metaphorically speaking).

But what makes Nimman Night Markets so special? Unlike traditional Chiang Mai markets, the Nimman night markets have an upscale, almost Western vibe, making them ideal for travelers seeking a fresh perspective. The creative energy of the neighborhood is palpable, with its mix of local craftsmanship, global influences, and a vibrant nightlife scene.

Stand-out Prices Too

Food is the star of any night market, and Nimman’s offerings don’t disappoint. Beyond the staples, Michelin-recognized Roti Pha Dae makes an appearance, albeit with a fancier price tag. While their original Tha Phae Road location sells roti from 15 to 45 baht, here you’ll pay 50 to 90 baht for indulgent combos like banana-egg-cheese-Nutella. But hey, it has a Bib Gourmand label – splurge a little!

More Than Just Food

The Nimman night markets are alive with creativity and entertainment. Wander through the maze of stalls, and you’ll encounter:

Young live bands and acoustic guitar players (from up-and-comers to seasoned street performers).

A mesmerizing street violinist whose melodies make the night magical.

A walking-frozen silver man with a hat (yes, the human statue game is strong).

The Ganesha Temple at Come On Nimman, where you can tie colorful ribbons while making wishes – a serene moment amid the hustle and bustle.

The Nimman area is a great place to experience a late-night massage. Check out my experience at the Oasis Spa!

Tips for Visiting Nimman Night Markets

1. Timing Is Everything

Markets start buzzing after 5 p.m., but weekends are prime time for peak offerings and people-watching.

2. Come Hungry

Trust us, you’ll regret that pre-market dinner when you see the variety here.

3. Cash Is King

Unless you have the option to pay via that Thai QR code, don’t count on digital payments with your card. A stack of small bills will make your night smoother.

4. Chat with Vendors

Every item has a story, and every vendor has a tale. Don’t miss the chance to connect.

5. Bring a Bag

You’ll need it for all the cool finds you’ll “accidentally” buy.

Discover More with Pipeaway

At Pipeaway, we’re all about finding the world’s quirkiest, tastiest, and most unforgettable experiences.

Whether you’re a foodie, a culture vulture, or just someone who loves a good market ramble, Nimman’s night markets will steal your heart.

So grab your sense of adventure (and your wallet), and let’s explore Chiang Mai’s most hyped-up marketplace!

Watch our video for a sneak peek and let us know your favorite market moment in the comments! Don’t forget to like, share, and subscribe to stay updated.

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Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links, meaning if you click on them and make a purchase, Pipeaway may make a small commission, at no additional cost to you. Thank you for supporting our work!

The post Nimman Night Markets: The Creative Heartbeat of Chiang Mai appeared first on Pipeaway.

“This is the first time we’ll be feeding them in the enclosure”, explains Wibool Chanyam (76) as we leave behind Phra Prang Sam Yod, the 13th-century Khmer ruin known as Lopburi Monkey Temple. In past decades, the long-tailed macaques have swarmed this iconic three-spired landmark. But since the town decided to remove them from the center, most monkeys are now detained at Lopburi Municipality Animal Shelter, the “monkey prison”.

Lopburi Monkey Festival popularized the Monkey City brand in order to lure tourists to Lopburi. Until there were more monkeys than tourists

Wibool is a retired fine arts professor from Thepsatri Rajabhat University. As I flip through his “Creativity Product from Nature” monograph, I learn that Wibool’s art practice takes what is considered waste and turns it into souvenirs.

More than three decades ago, he teamed up with Yongyuth Kitwatananusont (84), the owner of Lopburi Inn Hotel, and did something similar. The two friends launched an event that would lure tourists and become the city’s most memorable attraction – the Lopburi Monkey Festival.

Known as the Lopburi Monkey Banquet or Monkey Buffet Festival, the event that popularized the branding of Lopburi as Thailand’s Monkey City (Mueang Ling) also led to an explosion in the monkey population. That came with problems. The place that feeds monkeys is now covered in signs screaming: “Don’t feed the monkeys!”

Confused? Read our guide to this extraordinary event! With all the Monkey Buffet Festival information you would possibly need, you’ll be ready to monkey around Lopburi!

If you think that feeding wild monkeys is bonkers, what would you say about the African town that feeds - hyenas? 

Lopburi Monkey Festival Guide

Where is Lopburi in Thailand?

Lopburi is located in central Thailand, about 150 kilometers north of Bangkok. While it has a relatively small population today (58.000 residents), the city has a historical significance. In the 1680s, during the reign of King Narai the Great, Lopburi was the capital of the Ayutthaya Kingdom.

What is the Lopburi Monkey Festival?

Lopburi Monkey Festival is an annual event honoring crab-eating macaques, in a town where they live among humans. With its famous Monkey Banquet or Monkey Buffet, this grand feast is an occasion to get up close and personal with Lopburi’s cheekiest residents and participate in feeding them.

Why is the Monkey Buffet Festival celebrated?

Monkeys are locally seen as symbols of prosperity and good fortune. By throwing them a great party, the residents express their gratitude for the monkeys’ role in boosting the tourism economy while being an essential part of Lopburi’s cultural identity.

The event also has roots in Hindu mythology, where Hanuman is a revered monkey god from the Indian epic of Ramayana. In local mythology, Hanuman played a key role in establishing Lopburi; he was named its king as a reward for loyalty to Lord Rama when freeing his wife Sita from demon-king Ravana. The macaques are considered Hanuman’s direct descendants, the city’s guardian troops.

What is the history of the Lopburi Monkey Banquet?

The Monkey Buffet Festival history began in 1989 as a creative way to attract tourists and celebrate the unique relationship between the city’s human and Hanuman populations.

A local hotelier Yongyuth Kitwatananusont conceived the idea to turn Lopburi’s “monkey problem” into a tourist attraction. His creative initiative was conceptualized as a festival. It was also a clever marketing stunt for his hotel that features a monkey as its mascot.

Lopburi Monkey Festival started as a modest gathering, but it quickly gained attention for its uniqueness, attracting visitors from around the world.

My favorite monkey species in the world are Geladas - the grass-eating bleeding-heart monkeys I discovered in Ethiopia while staying at Limalimo Lodge in Simien Mountains.

When is the Monkey Buffet Festival held?

The Lopburi Monkey Festival date is always in November, on the last Sunday of the month. Phra Prang Sam Yod serves as the main venue for the festivities. However, with the removal of the majority of Lopburi’s monkey population to the newly built enclosures, parts of the programs may shift in the future.

What time is the Monkey Buffet Festival?

Here’s what the current schedule of the Lopburi Monkey Festival program looks like:

09:30 Blessing food at San Phra Karn, with music and dance performances

10:30 Feeding monkeys at the Nursery

12:00 Monkey buffet at Phra Prang Sam Yod

14:00 Monkey buffet at Phra Prang Sam Yod

16:00 Monkey buffet at Phra Prang Sam Yod

Keep in mind that early feedings draw plenty of press photographers who fight for the perfect shot. If you want to have an unobstructed view of the stars of the show, the best time to visit the Lopburi Monkey Festival would be those last two feeding sessions.

Can you feed monkeys on your own?

According to the decision of the Lopburi Municipality Governor, feeding monkeys and other animals in public areas, roads, and footpaths of Lopburi is prohibited.

Anyone who violates this rule shall be fined, with a penalty fine not exceeding 2,000 baht.

The only two places where the rule doesn’t apply are clearly marked as designated feeding areas. One is in the back of the three-spire Prang Sam Yod, next to the railway tracks, and over at the Phra Khan Shrine grounds.

MONKEY BUFFET FESTIVAL FACTS

How to pronounce Lopburi: Lop boo-ree

How many monkeys live in Lopburi: Approximately 2.000 crab-eating macaques live at the Lopburi enclosure, and 200 of them still claim the heart of the city.

Lopburi Monkey Festival price: Access to feeding areas at the Nursery enclosure, as well as at Phra Prang Sam Yot (from the northern side) is free. However, if you want to enter the temple grounds, the admission is 50 baht for foreigners.

Amount of food delivered by Lopburi Monkey Festival: 2 tons.

Number of plates served at Lopburi Monkey Buffet: 500.

Visit Lopburi Monkey Festival via this 6-minute YouTube video:

The menu of the Monkey Buffet Festival

A day before the Lopburi Monkey Festival, I accidentally stumble upon the festival headquarters. The place would be hard to miss if you were looking for it, though. Ape-themed sculpted chairs show off individuals ranging from a surprisingly lifelike chimp to one resembling the fresco of Jesus after that poor amateur restoration in Spain.

Behind the windows covered in hundreds of colorful plush toys (monkeys, what else?), there is an equally vibrant display of food. Following more naive art principles than Michelin-approved artistry, a dozen of Yongyuth’s hotel employees volunteer to arrange tomorrow’s charming buffet for the town’s most insatiable foodies.

Wibool carefully slices a wheel of watermelon into cake-like portions. With the dedication of a grandfather trying to prepare a nutritious plate for veggie-avoiding kiddos, he garnishes juicy red triangles with some bitter melon and legumes.

A spectrum of colors spills across 500 paper plates stacked over each other on wooden boards, reinforced with bricks for stability. From the yellowness of mango and corn, via the orangeness of carrot sticks and the redness of cherry tomatoes, to pink dragonfruit and purple eggplants, the palette of vitamins awaits our hungry monkey squad. Only the best for the VIPs. That stands for very important primates.

Not everything is health-magazine-approved, however. Among tamarind, longan, and pineapples, there are also colorful meringue cookies and fluorescent wafer sticks competing for attention. Even chocolate bars hanging from rainbow umbrellas sweeten up the menu of the Monkey Buffet Festival.

But what do exquisite palates of the most hooting ape critics prefer? It’s not bananas if that was your first guess.

“Their favorite fruit is durian”, Wibool confides, gesturing toward the thorny oval-shaped shells on the floor, hiding the stinky core. They will also fight over the traditional gold-colored Thai sweets, the egg yolk-based thong desserts, he reveals.

More often than not, feeding wildlife is not the smartest idea. Check out what happened in Oslob, where the world's greatest provisioned whale shark tourism site is in operation.

Tips for visitors: How to enjoy the Lopburi Monkey Festival safely

Attending the Lopburi Monkey Festival is a one-of-a-kind experience, but not without challenges. Here’s how to enjoy the festivities safely:

1. Protect your belongings.

Curious and quick, monkeys are masters of pickpocketing. They will snatch sunglasses, hats, cameras, mobile phones, and even entire bags. Keep your belongings secure (in a zipped bag), especially food and drinks. Avoid loose and dangling objects that might tempt the macaques.

2. Don’t look them in the eyes.

Sometimes, monkeys can interpret your physical approach as a challenge, and a selfie stick as a weapon. They can perceive staring as a threat. Especially if you encounter an agitated macaque, avoid direct eye contact, slowly back away, and maintain a respectful distance.

3. Don’t tease the monkeys.

Avoid feeding monkeys by hand or teasing them. If they feel you’re withholding food or see you as a competitor, they might become aggressive. Completely avoid larger or dominant macaques. If they feel cornered, that can provoke problems. Respect their space and remember they are wild animals.

4. Stay calm.

Keep an eye out for the monkeys. They can appear out of nowhere and even jump on your back. If they climb on you, stay still and don’t panic. Sudden movements may startle them, causing them to scratch or bite. Breathe deeply and let them climb down at their leisure.

5. Maintain hygiene.

After interacting with the monkeys or touching surfaces they frequent, sanitize and wash your hands as soon as possible.

Monkey makes the world go round

Lopburi fully embraced cultural identity based on the co-existence with its playful monkey population. Next to the old Khmer Empire temples appropriated by apes, one can now see urban graffiti and murals depicting furry creatures. Monkey sculptures will be the first thing welcoming you to Lopburi’s train station, and real monkeys will be the last thing you may see before heading to bed.

I stayed at the centrally located Lopburi City Hotel, just a banana’s throw away from Phra Prang Sam Yod. Monkeys were literally hanging around my windows. This hotel, like many other city-center establishments, had to cage itself from the outside world in order to protect both business and normal life. As I look through the bars outside my room without a view, I start getting an idea of what being in a zoo must feel like.

Check out my first neighbors in this short video!

But those monkeys scaling the city’s human cages are just a tiny fraction of the entire Lopburi monkey population. Compared to a couple of hundred monkeys at Lopburi Monkey Temple, those 2,000 jailbirds at the nursery enclosure resemble a civilization.

Just a weekend before the Lopburi Monkey Festival, 200 monkeys escaped this medium-security prison, causing a riot, and attacking even their first neighbor – the Tha Hin Police Station. Officers were forced to barricade themselves in the station to prevent monkeys from entering and destroying property or even important evidence.

As we arrive at the enclosure on the festival morning, local firefighters, armed with tranquilizer guns and small cages, are still on the hunt for the mischievous few. The operation is successful. In the long run, Lopburi believes that neutering the monkeys can restore peace in this town.

WHERE TO STAY IN LOPBURI?
Location-wise, there's no better choice than the Lopburi City Hotel, where I chose to stay. If you can handle barred windows, spotty wifi, and receptionists relying on Google Translate for live communication, you'll be fine with this convenient solution, too. To get to the Lopburi Monkey Temple, you'll practically just need to cross the street! Check out the best prices and read reviews for this hotel here.

If you want to be fully informed about all the action and not miss a thing, then Lopburi Inn Hotel, owned by the festival's godfather, should be a great choice. Check out the best available price for your room on this link.

For more Lopburi hotels and other options of places to stay, check here.

Ape’s appetite at its extreme

After the pandemic lockdowns, monkeys felt the absence of tourists who previously fed them. Even the Lopburi Monkey Festival discontinued its fruit banquets during the COVID era.

So monkeys started robbing the locals, stealing everything from food to phones. They were damaging cars, causing accidents, and even taking over entire buildings. There were even conflicts between different groups, which could only be characterized as Lopburi monkey wars.

To protect themselves from the monkey invasion, the people of Lopburi started installing metal grilles around their homes, and even “scary” toy tiger heads in shops. The desperate ones put their properties up for sale.

A stroll through the town in post-pandemic years became unimaginable without carrying a slingshot, a stick, or at least a pellet gun.

A photograph made by Joan de la Malla, depicting a schoolgirl defending her bag of beverages from a little monkey with a toy gun, went viral. It was even handed over to Prime Minister Srettha Thavisin at the opening of the 2024 King Narai Reign Fair in Lopburi, seeking urgent action.

An unprecedented monkey crackdown followed, with a massive sterilization at Lopburi Monkey Hospital. Because, yes, a town with so many monkeys had to establish even a dedicated hospital, adjoined to the Lopburi Zoo.

Lopburi Municipality Animal Shelter is nowadays the new home for most of them, some 2.5 kilometers away from Phra Prang Sam Yod, the monkey temple they once ruled.

Treating monkeys like kings clearly had dangerous consequences. But the tradition of the Lopburi Monkey Festival continues.

As he proudly shows his daughter’s painting depicting the monkey buffet, I ask Wibool if he has support from his family for this monkey business.

“My wife is a mathematics teacher”, the art professor says. “So no, she is not so happy. She is more into logic.”

Feeding wildlife can change their behavior. Check out what happened with deer in Nara Deer Park, Japan!

Meals on Wheels – Grab Food for monkeys

In Lopburi, the love for monkeys is a delicate balancing act – feeding them is a coin with two sides. It echoes what was seen in places like Bali: regular human feeding made macaques in Ubud Monkey Forest far more aggressive than, for instance, their wilder counterparts in West Bali National Park, where such interaction is forbidden. Feeding the macaques is what makes them dependent on us, and even fuels the potential for incidents.

This complexity doesn’t deter Sumalee Srichomphoo from stepping up. The woman who adopted eight cats, and even one goose, found a mission in caring for the wild animals of Lopburi, too. For the past twelve years, she’s embraced a peculiar daily routine.

Her day starts at 4 a.m. She hops on her motorbike and heads to the local fresh market. There, she strolls through the stalls and collects discarded fruit and vegetables from vendors, piling them into large baskets, all before dawn. The kind-hearted monks at Wat Sao Thong Thong allow her to store this treasure trove of produce until the afternoon.

At 3 p.m., Sumalee returns to make the delivery run of her early-morning catch. The destination is Phra Prang Sam Yot, where the Lopburi version of Grab Food starts.

In the backyard of their temple, monkeys experience the all-you-can-eat buffet on a daily basis. They don’t need to wait for the annual Lopburi Monkey Festival to experience the joys of human catering.

Every Sunday, Sumalee joins the monks and brings the weekly supply of food to the monkeys in the Enclosure too.

She might even buy candies in the store and, with a contagious laugh, spread them among the voracious gang.

It might feel like adding fuel to the fire, but on the other hand, this daily sacrifice is what keeps the truce with the monkeys alive.

See Sumalee’s feeding routine featured in our Pipeaway Walks series!

HOW TO REACH LOPBURI?

Getting to Lopburi is a breeze, with various convenient transport options connecting the city to Bangkok and beyond. Here are the best ways to reach Lopburi:

1. By train

The train is a scenic, affordable way to travel to Lopburi. Trains to Lopburi depart from Bangkok's Krung Thep Aphiwat Central Terminal (stopping at Don Mueang and Ayutthaya, among others, too). The journey takes about 2 hours and brings you to Lopburi Railway Station, located near key attractions like Phra Prang Sam Yod.

Personally, I traveled to Lopburi from Ayutthaya by an ordinary train that had only the 3rd class seats. The ride was 70 minutes long and cost just 13 baht (36 cents). A rapid train that takes just under an hour would cost 20 baht in the same class, or 60 baht in the second class. 

For those in a hurry, there is also a special express train with 2nd class seats in the morning - it cuts the journey time to 33 minutes but raises the price to 260 baht.

If you want to book your train ticket online (advance booking is strongly recommended when traveling in high season), do it here.

2. By bus or minivan

Buses and minivans are more frequent than trains. Their departure point in Bangkok is the Mochit Bus Terminal (Northern Bus Terminal).

Minivans and buses to Lopburi leave regularly, practically every half an hour. Travel time from Bangkok to Lopburi should be between 2.5 and 3 hours, depending on traffic.

A one-way trip typically costs at least 300 baht.

Explore your options on this site.

3. By car or taxi

Driving to Lopburi offers flexibility and convenience, especially for groups or those with lots of luggage.

The journey via Highway 1 is up to 200 kilometers and takes approximately 3 hours.

Car rental is available at Bangkok airport and city centers, with rates starting at around 3,500 baht per day. Easily compare prices and options on this link!

A taxi or a private driver will cost about 3.000-4.500 baht for a one-way trip. A well-rated choice is this return trip for 3.800 baht (105 euros).

4. By tour package

For a hassle-free experience, you can book a Lopburi day trip from Bangkok. A package that includes transportation, a licensed English-speaking tour guide, and a visit to the historical temples of Ayutthaya is available for 53 euros per person. Check it out!

Lopburi Monkey Festival – Conclusion

With the luxury of having personal butlers and the energy provided by endless buffets (complete with desserts and even soda drinks – a perfect fuel for the sugar rush), monkeys in Lopburi had stimulating conditions for a population boom.

But with a soaring population and food stocks staying the same, Pandora’s box opened up during the pandemic, bringing macabre macaque nightmares to Lopburi.

The Monkey Town, a place that tried to celebrate their furrier inhabitants, now had to encage them. Environmentalist organizations are not happy with the controversial solution of the Enclosure. They see it more as a confinement than a coexistence. But at the moment, the alternative is – problems.

Monkeys should definitely not be left to die of hunger. But Lopburi owes its macaques more than just survival 

The Lopburi Monkey Festival remains a celebration of culture, history, and harmony between humans and animals. But it also contributed to the issues monkeys are experiencing today. What began as a gesture of gratitude has grown into a cautionary tale about balance.

Sterilization programs may eventually reduce Lopburi’s monkey population in the following years. But that also means that most of these newcomers to the so-called monkey paradise of Lopburi will have to spend a lifetime – behind bars.

The responsible thing to do is definitely not to let them die of hunger. But Lopburi owes its monkey citizens more than just survival; it owes them dignity. The solution cannot be to choose who should spend their life behind bars, humans or monkeys. Both species call Lopburi home. Monkeys were around when it was still a jungle.

So Lopburi should make the living conditions of the encaged monkeys much better than they currently are. This is how responsibility in hospitality works. The one who prepares the feast often ends up doing the dishes.

What’s your take on celebrating animals in festivals like the Lopburi Monkey Festival?
Leave your comment below and pin the article for later!

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The post Lopburi Monkey Festival: Lavish Banquet for 2,000 Gluttonous Macaques appeared first on Pipeaway.

An October dawn spills over the Jor Soo Gong Naka Shrine in Phuket, bathing the gathered crowds in soft light. A barely teenage boy stands still while a father-figure man attaches a flower garland around his wrist. He’s not going to school today but for a barefoot walk down the streets of his hometown. It’s Jia Chai, Tesagan Gin Je, or simply Jay – Phuket’s annual self-mutilation festival.

Self-mutilation is a spectacle. Because there are – spectators. A forest of selfie sticks grows around the garden of piercing rods

The man’s gloved hands fumble with a stubborn piece of string poking delicate petals. The boy’s face was much less resistant than that of a flower. Two metal skewers pierced his cheeks easily, like a marshmallow. No blood in sight.

Over six dozen ma song spirit mediums show up for the first of more than 30 street processions scheduled during the nine-day Phuket Vegetarian Festival. These men, women, and children are believed to embody the Nine Emperor Gods, celestial Star Lords who, according to Taoism, preside over planetary movements, and matters of life and death.

In a trance-like state, the possessed hosts feel no pain. Numbed down, many undergo an extreme piercing ritual that would make holes in their cheeks, tongues, or body, to provide space for needles, spikes, swords, and even quirky objects.

Self-mutilation is a spectacle. Because there are – spectators. Besides the closest relatives and friends supporting their ma song in this intense ritual, tourists fill up the tiny shrine yard. A forest of selfie sticks grows around the garden of piercing rods, fighting for the same space.

One usually has to be a medical student to come so close to open wounds. But here, the anatomy lesson is free. Human meat attracts observers like exposed skin does with mosquitoes. Once a year, the Jor Soo Gong Naka Shrine becomes a natural habitat for exhibition and voyeurism.

Blades of devotion

As the first procession on the festival roster, the Jor Soo Gong Naka Shrine doesn’t just draw amateurs with smartphones – it’s a magnet for professional photographers. The perfect shot could capture global headlines, but it comes at the cost of many clicks and jostling elbows.

This year’s star turns out to be Sirinnicha Thampradit, a 29-year-old woman calmly sitting on a yellow plastic chair, using her hands to support three swords slicing through her right cheek. She started collecting scars also as a teenager, experiencing her first possession when she was 17.

“My god has chosen me and I sacrifice my body to him once a year. I am so proud”, Sirinicha tells an AFP reporter later.

“I didn’t feel any pain during the piercing”, she reveals, surrounded with paper tissues soaked in blood. “Even if it did hurt, I could tolerate it without medication or going to the doctor.”

Just in case, an ambulance is parked at the entrance of Jor Soo Gong Naka Shrine. But the staff mainly reminds visitors like me that wearing a cap prevents heatstroke. One paramedic discretely slips a yellow-and-red plastic cap, graciously provided by the Wai Wai noodle soup brand, into my hands.

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Influencers stealing the spotlight

As for Sirinicha, her wounds should heal within a week. She credits her unwavering faith for protecting her and other ma songs of her family. Maybe from pain. But not from pain in the ass, also known as travel influencers. Here, the divine shield seems powerless.

Adam from The Country Collectors crouches to steal a selfie with her, without even the courtesy of saying ‘hello’.

His mouth and eyes go cartoonishly wide, his eyebrows arched in performative disbelief – a demonstration of manufactured shock.

Dissatisfied with the outcome of the shot, he waves to a random bystander.

“Can you take a photo of me?”, he asks.

Of me. Not – of us. Sirinicha is here reduced to a decorative backdrop. Her consent is presumed, much like that of the chair she is sitting on. She can’t speak with her mouth full, though.

After Adam, who would later publish a YouTube video, with a thumbnail title screaming “I WAS SHOCKED”, another instamodel swoops in to borrow his minutes of fame too.

The Origins of Jor Soo Gong Naka Shrine

Jor Soo Gong Naka Shrine is known through a variation of spellings. Google Maps prefers Jor Soo Kong Naka Shrine. Other online sources may sometimes call it Choor Su Gong, Jchoor Su Gong, Jor Soo Gong, or Jo Su Gong.

If that's not enough variety, the temple dedicated to the Taoist deity Chor Soo Kong has more aliases: Naka Tao Bo Geng, or Hun Jong Aaam / Hun Jong Arm Shrine, translated as Cloudy Sky Monastery.



The shrine in the Wichit Sub-district of Mueang, back then just a modest thatched-roof structure, was built in 2499 of the Buddhist Era (1956 in the Gregorian calendar). Its original purpose was to enshrine the sacred objects brought to Phuket by Hokkien Chinese settlers, who arrived to work in the island's thriving tin mines.

Thanks to the donations of the devotees, the shrine went through several expansions. The most recent major renovation was completed in 2566 (2013 in Common Era). Today, it's a bright yellow building with a traditional roof and four pillars hugged by green dragons.

By positioning its yew keng procession as the grand opening act of the Phuket Vegetarian Festival, even if relatively small, Jor Soo Gong Naka Shrine managed to become a central point of Taoist spiritual practices in Phuket, attracting significant interest from not only local crowds.

The divine descent in focus

To hunt the “best” shots of the Jay piercing ritual, one must arrive early at the Jor Soo Gong Naka Shrine. The march through the town officially starts at 7:30 a.m., but devotees gather as early as 6 a.m.

The crowd sits quietly, dressed in all-white or light purple, with imprints of Chinese gods on their shirts. Teenage boys puff on e-cigarettes as they decorate deity sedan chairs they would be carrying – with long red firecracker rolls. Cars are numbered in the back, prepped to carry god icons on their roofs.

Photographers, some with tattoos and body modifications, have the heaviest load – with backpacks, telephoto lenses, and action cameras strapped to various parts of their bodies. With one pair of hands, only multitasking secures both pro photos as well as videos for socials. The most prepared ones wield long rods crowned with 360 cameras, so they can fish for footage over each other.

In this atmosphere of anticipation, a commotion unfolds at the shrine’s altar, adorned with small statues. When a drumbeat breaks the murmur of the crowd, the ritual begins. Between green dragons wrapping around the shrine pillars, a man shows up kneeling, then raising incense sticks toward the sky.

Soon, more men exit the shrine. Now in their bright yellow and black aprons, with whips around their necks and black flags in their hands, they stand out from the all-white crowd.

These are ma songs, regular shrine followers in a changed state of mind. The gods had entered them, and now their heads shake left and right. With cramped jaws, they descend among the mortals.

One of them gesticulates his discontent with a messy pile of shoes left near the golden lion statues. “Clean it up!”, as if he demands. Someone readily obliges.

If you want to learn more about the origins of these celebrations, read the article on Kathu Shrine, the birthplace of the Nine Emperor Gods Festival.

Holy holes

There is a pop-up “waiting room” in Jor Soo Gong Naka Shrine’s yard. As in some religious version of musical chairs, these plastic seats move around according to the available space. And new ma songs, possessed by divine entities, get to sit in them, willingly submitting themselves to mutilation.

For piercings larger than standard needles, a prop circulating around the most is a shiny cone-shaped tool. While a helper steadies the ma song’s head, the piercer inserts fingers into the mouth, to “feel” the spot. With a determined push, the stainless-steel cone drives into the cheek, expanding the hole to the right size. The cone is then removed, and replaced with rods, swords, sickles, hooks, roses, sun umbrellas, or basically any creative find from a local hardware store.

One devotee has a particularly heavy load to carry. His leg jerks rhythmically as the cone pokes holes, under the watchful eyes of phone cameras. After puncturing one cheek, the piercer continues pushing the sharp tip through the mouth, forcing it through the other cheek too. The ma song vocalizes the discomfort, saving his face from resembling the Swiss cheese even more.

The mutilation process appears excruciating, but those involved claim to feel no pain when gods take over. Yet, as we peer through the lens of the camera, the sweat beading on their foreheads is hard to ignore. When a female ma song finally gets her piercings in place, her face glistens in a peculiar shine of smeared lipstick and tears.

Self-mutilation is difficult to watch, but perhaps even harder to look away from. Smartphones and cameras make sure our uncomfortable gazes stay glued to the scene.

To witness the dramatic piercing rituals and street procession from Jor Soo Gong Naka Shrine, see this short YouTube video (viewer discretion is advised)!

When did self-harm first start?

Self-mutilation rituals are far from a modern phenomenon.

In Phuket, these traditions have developed over the centuries. While they are seen as acts of resilience and devotion, they also serve a larger purpose: helping devotees channel their gods to protect the community.

However, self-sacrifice for the community has a complex history that spans many cultures and beliefs and has roots in ancient rituals.

In early tribal societies, self-inflicted wounds were often symbolic rites of passage, marking the transition into adulthood or preparing individuals for spiritual roles.
In some Native American tribes, young men took part in a multi-day Sun Dance, an enduring ritual that involved piercing the skin. Similarly, the Aztecs practiced piercing as a form of self-sacrifice, offering the gift of precious blood to their gods.

Self-mutilation appears in the Bible as well. In the Old Testament, the prophet Elijah encounters prophets of Baal who cut themselves with swords to invoke their god (1 Kings 18:28). But Christianity also connects martyrdom with faith, from medieval art showing Saint Sebastian riddled with arrows to modern reenactments of Easter crucifixion at Maleldo Festival in the Philippines.

Certain branches of Shia Islam practice self-flagellation (tatbir) during Ashura, a collective mourning over the martyrdom of Hussein, the grandson of the Prophet Muhammad.

In Malaysia, Hindus participate in the Thaipusam Festival at places like Batu Caves or Penang Island, where believers pierce themselves as an act of devotion to Lord Murugan, the god of war.

Beyond acts of religious zeal, self-mutilation has also found a place in contemporary performance. Many artists, from Marina Abramović to sideshow performers such as Zamora the Torture King and Norwegian Pain Solution, used self-harm to provoke intense reactions of discomfort and explore the boundaries of pain.

Trick or treat

For ma songs, cheek piercing is not mandatory. At Jor Soo Gong Naka Shrine, some of the possessed devotees have needles with tassels or figurine heads perforating their arms’ skin. One has a spiked morning star mace holing his tongue.

Then there’s a man with the axe, blood dripping from his mouth. Occasionally, he slides the razor-sharp edge across his tongue.

There are definitely elements of shock performance. One ma song removes a grape from the tip of his cheek-piercing skewer and hands it to a kiddo who bursts into tears. Everyone else laughs.

Even when they are offered just candies, children are not sure how to react in this bizarre version of “trick or treat”. Seeing a self-mutilation festival up close definitely shocks many of them.

Technically mind-absent, some ma songs are still very aware of the nature of the attention they are getting. They stop to take photographs with fans. When they just see a lone lens, they may slow down their walking pace, suddenly roll their eyes back, or completely freeze in a hero pose with a lifted leg, and a connected thumb and middle finger.

Ma songs’ escort enjoys the cameras’ attention too. Proud of their procession representative, the members of the entourage also strike a pose, if they are not already reporting live via their own phones.

Even the traffic police, who temporarily divert cars from the procession’s path, make their own documentation. One officer multitasks with two recording devices – a 360 camera and a smartphone.

Piercing rituals differ from temple to temple. Check out the repertoire of industrial tools used to pierce the ma songs' cheeks at the Lim Hu Tai Su Shrine!

From blessings to burns

At makeshift altars, set up by local families and businesses, the ma songs may pause, taking fruit from the offerings, giving it a ritualistic twirl around an incense stick, and then presenting it to someone (that’s how I scored a dragonfruit for breakfast myself!). But besides giving the goods, they also take away the bad. That could be in the form of a fruit too, or some pyrotechnics.

Being a ma song is not easy. Sugar-high children wait for their candy. Kneeling adults crave their blessings. Young adults want to throw firecrackers under their feet, testing the miraculous painproofness in Doubting-Thomas style.

As they walk barefoot through the tropical heat, ma song’s naked soles rub the burning asphalt, as well as bravely face those mini explosions.

Only occasionally, the supportive followers sprinkle their feet with water. Sometimes, an airflow bounces off of the waved flag, barely brushing over ma song’s skin.

Their companions may wipe away sweat from their faces, or blood from their open wounds. Red-stained paper towels are casually discarded right there, on the floor. The cleanup squads wait at the sidelines, ready to return the firecracker-polluted streets of Phuket to their original state, as soon as the parade is over.

Just like roads, during the nine days of the Phuket Vegetarian Festival, people undergo a temporary transformation too. Devoted meat-eaters might try a vegetarian diet. But as soon as the festival shuts down, they’ll probably return to their old eating habits. Ma songs will also be just regular Phuket citizens again, with only scars to mark their close encounter with the Nine Emperor Gods.

Self-Mutilation Festival at Jor Soo Gong Naka Shrine – Conclusion

During the Phuket Vegetarian Festival, Jor Soo Gong Naka Shrine hosts one of the most intense and mesmerizing displays of faith in the world. Encountering ma songs, seemingly immune to pain, may be overwhelming for first-time visitors. But it’s about more than shock value.

With hundreds of tourists snapping photos and filming from inches away, these rituals become entangled with a sense of voyeurism

While the thought of piercing skin and enduring physical pain may make many shudder, for devotees, these self-mortification acts are about purification. During the event, devotees become vessels for divine energy, in a process they consider sacred.

For ma song, self-mutilation may be a deeply personal trial. Yet, with hundreds of tourists crowded around, snapping photos and filming from inches away, these rituals become entangled with a sense of voyeurism. The line between private devotion and public spectacle blurs.

Visitors often stand transfixed, both drawn in and repelled by the extreme sights. In one way, they are seeking a visceral connection to an experience that feels raw and unfiltered, yet they’re also consuming it as a performance – moving from one dramatic ritual to the next.

The theatrical display is magnetic, almost impossible for onlookers to ignore, no matter how far removed they are from its cultural or religious significance.

With crowds pressing closer, eager to capture each moment on camera, the outsiders become, in some sense, participants, creating a cultural artifact of the event. With respect toward Phuket’s acts of faith, this sometimes intrusive documentation might feed global curiosity, as well as preserve the tradition.

Where to stay near Jor Soo Gong Naka Shrine?

If you are planning to visit the Phuket Vegetarian Festival and attend the procession from Jor Soo Gong Naka Shrine, I highly recommend making your base in the Old Town. It is much more vibrant and interesting than the shrine’s immediate neighborhood.

The Elements Boutique House

A great accommodation choice right in the heart of the Old Town, on Soi Soon Utis Street, is The Elements Boutique House, a property inspired by Phuket’s Chino-European shophouse architecture. From wooden double doors and arched windows to chim jae-style inner court (typical part of long and narrow houses, where an area opens from floor to ceiling to let air and light in), it’s an impressively functional and pleasant 2023 renovation of a former garage house.

Out of four rooms, I stayed in Aqua (others naturally named Earth, Air, and Fire). All rooms have different styles, ranging from Japanese minimalism to modern decor. My quite large sanctuary (40 square meters!) came in classic style with wooden furniture and blue walls.

Besides a comfortable king-size bed, there was also a bay window seat looking out at a quiet, dead-end alley (with all the pyrotechnics the Phuket Vegetarian Festival is known for, you will appreciate the fact that this area is mainly used by neighbors). Another skylight roof brings more light to a freestanding bathtub, while the toilet and shower room come separately.

With quite cool four showerheads and a glass wall that echoes the sounds of Japanese onsen, picking between soaking in a tub and using a standing shower with plant-based formula toiletries, is a hard choice.

Check out The Elements Boutique House in this short YouTube video!

 

Double basin and double working desks make the Aqua room a fantastic choice for couples. But I had no complaints about enjoying the place all by myself. Plus, I got an extra si tao sor, a welcome cookie connecting the guesthouse with Chinese-Thai heritage!

Depending on the dates, rooms at The Elements Boutique House start at around 2,300 baht (around 60 euros) per night. Check out the current rates for your chosen dates on Booking or Agoda!

Aekkeko Hostel

If you are looking into budget options in Phuket Town, I can recommend Aekkeko Hostel on Krabi Road.

Hidden behind a bookstore, the hostel starts with a lounge area that has a few cool resting places, such as a hanging chair, or a net stretched on the first floor.

The mixed dormitory fits eight people, with curtained-off beds, and always-on AC, unlike the common areas where you will have to handle fans.

Still, with free access to water and a shared kitchen, this reasonably priced hostel is a great choice for backpackers visiting the Phuket Vegetarian Festival.

If you’re prepared to walk like me, Jor Soo Gong Naka Shrine is 50 minutes away. Otherwise, there is always Grab!

A bed in the Aekkeko Hostel dormitory costs 340 baht (9 euros), while private rooms start at 980 baht (27 euros) per night. Find the exact prices for your dates on Booking, Agoda, or Hostelworld. 

More accommodation options

If you insist on staying in the vicinity of Jor Soo Gong Naka Shrine, which would be more gentle for your morning wake-up, there are several options within a 500-meter radius. Check out the 4-star hotels with outdoor swimming pools, such as Recenta Phuket Suanluang and Little Nyonja Hotel, or pick a decent 3-star Leelawadee Naka!

Where to eat nearby?

After following the Jor Soo Gong Naka Shrine procession, you’ll likely need to fuel up. Luckily, there are plenty of delicious meals near the proposed accommodations that are worth trying.

During the Jae Festival, plant-based meals are readily available on nearly every corner. Learn everything you should know about vegetarian food in Phuket! 

Kopitiam by Wilai

If you want to try Phuket-style Baba-Nyonya (Peranakan Chinese) food, an authentic place to do so is an old-school restaurant on popular Talang Road – Kopitiam by Wilai.

They offer a variety of local dishes, but one standout is their Panang curry, a thick red Thai curry with a mixture of red chili paste, fresh Thai herbs, and dry spices in coconut cream. Popular versions of this dish include chicken or beef, but during the Phuket Vegetarian Festival, that won’t be on the menu. The vegetarian Panang curry is still quite flavorful.

Pair it with a refreshing drink as, even in the mild version for Westerner palates, the dish still packs a punch in terms of spices.

A portion of Panang curry with rice at Kopitiam by Wilai cost me 150 baht (4 euros), and a Coke adds another 35 baht (1 euro) to the bill. 

A Pong Mae Sunee

Just at the entrance to Soi Soon Utis, the street leading to The Elements Boutique House, A Pong Mae Sunee is a food stall that often has a long queue of customers. They make khanom a pong – simple, but quite special coconut crepes in six miniature woks simultaneously heated over charcoal.

Observing the couple at work is pleasurable, but their lightly sweetened crispy pancakes with a soft center are an even more delicious reward. It didn’t come as a surprise that this food stall’s snacks earned a Michelin Bib Gourmand recognition.

See the A Pong Mae Sunee couple making these famous pancakes in this YouTube short! 

One rolled crepe at A Pong Mae Sunee costs 5 baht, but a pack of six is 25 baht (barely 70 cents). I haven't seen anyone taking only one. 

What are your thoughts on the self-mutilation festival at Jor Soo Gong Naka Shrine in Phuket?
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Disclosure: My stay at The Elements Boutique House was complimentary, but all opinions are my own.

Also, this post may contain affiliate links, meaning if you click on them and make a purchase, Pipeaway may make a small commission, at no additional cost to you. Thank you for supporting our work!

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Meatarians insisting on finding a steak during the Phuket Vegetarian Festival exercise a much stricter diet than local vegetarians

As I was munching on quite a delicious vegetarian Pad Thai, I had no objections against the Jae / Jay Festival‘s effects on Phuket’s food offer. I was more surprised by the disappointment seen in the perplexed eyes of the tourists who couldn’t consume their desired meat protein. Rather than taking a dive into something new, they preferred roaming the streets and hoping to get luckier at the next eatery.

Yes, a strict vegetarian diet is a cornerstone of the Phuket Vegetarian Festival. Still, nothing is stricter than the conviction of those meatarians insisting on finding a steak in what clearly becomes a veggie town in those October days.

Nobody should stay hungry during the Jay Festival, however. Phuket roads, especially those leading to temples, are lined with stalls offering delicious food. This rich Phuket Vegetarian Festival buffet almost makes you wonder whether abstinence (manifested in avoiding sex and alcohol too) is truly the main prerequisite for purification. All those colors, scents, and flavors invite you to – indulge!

While many meat-centric restaurants and shops close their doors or turn vegan for a week, Jae is not a festival of starvation. Temples actually feed anyone who is hungry free of charge, while eating out in Phuket, often for just a dollar or two, becomes an exciting culinary adventure.

Learn everything you need to know about Phuket Vegetarian Festival food!

Going vegan is one of the great ways to reduce your carbon footprint when traveling. 

Phuket Vegetarian Festival origin – from malaria to miracles

Today better known for its jaw-dropping rituals – think cheek-piercing processions and fire-walking ceremonies – Phuket Vegetarian Festival is an annual period for purification. In Taoist belief, those nine days in the ninth lunar month of the Chinese calendar (usually between September and October) are also known as the Nine Emperor Gods Festival, remembering a divine intervention from the early 19th century.

The Phuket Vegetarian Festival originated when a traveling troupe of opera performers visiting Phuket from China‘s Fujian province fell ill with malaria (or cholera?) in 1825. Traditional medicine failed to help, so in a desperate attempt to regain their health, they adopted a vegetarian diet and performed various rituals and cleansing ceremonies to honor the pantheon of Nine Emperor Gods. Miraculously, they recovered and, since then, the locals have celebrated this “vegetarian miracle”, expanding it into a significant annual festival.

An alternative theory links the Phuket Vegetarian Festival’s origins to the Taiping Rebellion (1850-1864). The leaders of the Chinese who united to resist the Manchu-led Qing dynasty were killed, together with millions of others. Vegetarianism was supposedly introduced out of mourning for those who lost their lives.

Whenever the Phuket Vegetarian Festival history really started, these customs have been passed down through generations of Chinese descendants in Southeast Asia, blending with local beliefs.

Today’s devotees, both Thai and Chinese, follow a strict set of rules for nine days, saying no to meat, alcohol, cigarettes, drugs, sex, profanities, lies, and other impurities. Besides dairy, eggs, and fish sauce, even certain types of pungent veggies, such as onion, garlic, leek, scallions, and chives, are on the banned list. Consuming chocolate and fizzy drinks is discouraged. Participants also adhere to wearing all-white clothing as a symbol of purity. These acts are believed to bring good health, prosperity, and spiritual peace to the community.

Thaipusam in Malaysia has a similar set of rules where devotees eat vegetarian food once a day for 48 days. Learn more about the Hindu piercing festival. 

Vegetarian food stalls in Phuket

For visitors, the abundant plant-based meals are the highlight of the Phuket Vegetarian Festival. Hundreds of vegetarian food stalls spring up near the Chinese temples.

Probably the best street food in Phuket is served on Ranong Road, a section between Ranong Main Market and Jui Tui Shrine. Here, between 3 p.m. and midnight, the cars passing through are replaced with foot traffic, a hungry swarm of festival-goers navigating two lengthy rows of food stalls, each competing to win their taste buds.

Feel the atmosphere of the Phuket Vegetarian Festival street food market in our new YouTube series of uninterrupted Pipeaway Walks:

Phuket Vegetarian Festival street food market is occasionally interrupted by vendors offering flashy dragon toys and helium-filled balloons, leather purses, pyrotechnics, and cheap clothes (all white and light purple: temple-ready shirts and skirts for 100 baht, shorts for 50, trousers for 150). But the majority of goods traded are various meatless bites.

Food is normally eaten on the go. For my first try, I stop at a stall with plastic tables and chairs, a little al fresco pop-up restaurant. My plastic bowl is packed with noodles, veggies, mushrooms, crackers, and non-animal proteins. All quite delicious, and Thai-level spicy. Am I not glad I always carry my water bottle with me?

As I eat, it’s interesting to observe the well-oiled routine of this family operation. Everyone plays a role, from welcoming guests to a table, via flipping noodles and loading the garnishes, to washing the dishes (even here, in the street, someone has to do it).

My “lost in translation” lesson arrives when it’s time to pay. That big red “เจ” written on the yellow banner (not only on this stall) is not the price. I assume the lettering reads 17 baht. It does not. The 2-character sign is not even a number; it actually stands for – Jay (vegan). My noodles set me back 60 baht, still less than 2 dollars.

Do you want to learn how to cook vegetarian food Phuket-way? Join this well-rated vegetarian Thai cooking class!

Phuket Vegetarian Festival food menu

It’s hard to define the staple food of the Phuket Vegetarian Festival, as there are so many options to choose from. My eyes went wide at tom yum-flavored scones, taro-filled steamed buns, deep-fried corn, crispy vegetarian pork or squid, wonton dumplings stuffed with water chestnut, and a myriad of fried noodles and fake sushi rolls.

All sorts of skewers wait for you to pick them and throw on the barbecue, while a long line of patient customers seems to be a standard in front of the stall specialized in grilling king oyster mushrooms.

One vendor juggles a basket of French fries in one hand, a mic in the other, enthusiastically promoting them over the loudspeaker. The competition for your appetite is fierce.

From Korean gimmari rolls and Indian panipuri to Vietnamese savory crepes, from Chinese zongzi to Thai donuts, Phuket Vegetarian Festival is a whirlwind journey through the tastes of Asia.

Corn dogs and pastries shaped like dogs are here literally steps away. Well, as long as you don’t get diverted by a collection of socks or sunglasses for your puppy.

Check out how the Phuket Vegetarian Festival is celebrated at the Lim Hu Tai Su Shrine. Viewers' discretion is advised.

The sweet side of the Phuket Vegetarian Festival buffet

Croissants will range from puffy to flat. Ice creams from soft to hard.

But to sweeten up my first-night experience at Phuket Vegetarian Festival, I try to avoid desserts with a Western world aura. Instead, I buy khao lam, sticky rice cooked in bamboo tubes, with coconut milk and black beans. Price? Just 30 baht.

Most prices here are a comfortable two digits, with the exception of grapes: a bunch is priced at 170 baht. You can save if you opt for a skewer, with exactly five grapes on it – that will be 35 baht!

Your skewer can also pierce strawberries, or mixed fruit jelly balls. If you like it Japanese-style, you can get your berries (or kiwi) combined with creme-fraiche in those triangle sandwiches, or wrapped in pillowy daifuku. For more kawaii creations, stuff your bag with luk chup, cute bite-sized fruits made of mung beans.

If you just like it raw, opt for sliced fruit. This is a great opportunity to even try durian, a smelly fruit that will typically invoke a heavy fine if you bring it to your hotel or hostel.

Beyond classics such as mango sticky rice or coconut pancakes (“Yummy, yummy”, endorses them their energetic baker), you can get your fruit-sourced vitamins in fresh juices covering all sweet bases – longan, guava, watermelon, sugarcane, and, of course, coconut water.

You can also cool off with an iced milk tea, a virgin mojito (remember, no alcohol!), a Coke slushy, or a healthier – bean smoothie. If you want to go eccentric, try craft cocoa with a hint of mint, or a butterfly pea juice – with glitter.

When in Chiang Mai, make sure to visit the upscale street food offerings at Nimman night markets!

Dining beyond the festival stalls – Vegetarian restaurants in Phuket

Beyond ubiquitous street food during the Phuket Vegetarian Festival, the town also has a surprising lineup of plant-based restaurants that operate year-round.

If you’re looking for a sit-down experience of vegetarian food in Phuket, you’ll find plenty of options that are, in fact, almost entirely vegan.

The highest density of vegetarian restaurants in Phuket is again on Ranong Road, close to Jui Tui Shrine. You might not see them easily during the festival, as they get overshadowed by food stalls placed in front of them, but they are certainly there!

Right at the corner with Soi Phutorn, I treat myself to a lovely meal at Luk To Vegetarian, for only 70 baht. I take rice with two vegetable add-ons (30), add a faux fish (10), and then three more sides from the fried section (tofu, veggies, and spring roll, 10 baht each). There is a language barrier here, but we managed to compose two plates that fill up my stomach. Water is free.

Phuket vegan restaurants offering a similar buffet of mock meats and veggies continue eastwards (Jia Chai Vegetarian Restaurant, Vegan Station, Ruamjai Vegan Restaurant, Hesan Vegetarian). As I pass by, they seem to be under renovation, with a humble food display, or finished for the day. Picking Luk To Vegetarian was a no-brainer.

Another solid, budget-friendly choice is Nong ‘J Vegetarian Restaurant on Patiphat Road. Here, for under 100 baht, you get an all-star cast of curries and mock meats: chicken, duck, pork, and even catfish. The setup might be simple (metal tables and fans), but with hundreds of five-star reviews, it’s clear this family-run gem knows how to wow a crowd.

If you’re looking into fancier vegetarian restaurants in Phuket, venture farther east. After the Suriyadey Circle roundabout, Ranong Road becomes Ratsada Road, and at the end, there is The Vegan Table. Here, you’ll find Beyond burgers, falafel wraps, vegan pizza and pasta, and even the vegan English breakfast. There are also drool-worthy cheesecakes and chocolate tarts, but prepare to pay more.

Even further east, via Phangnga Road, Ubuntu EAT awaits. This Indian vegan cafe opened just this year, but it already attracts raving fans. Beyond just a selection of masala (from chycken to fysh and sawsage), they also offer Thai and Lebanese options, kebab, biryani, salad and smoothie bowls. Expect to pay between 200 and 300 baht per person.

Food apps in Phuket

If you’d rather enjoy your veggie feast in your cozy accommodation (or any address in Phuket of your choice), you’re in luck. Phuket’s food delivery game is strong – there are simple, fast, and reliable services that can bring food to your doorstep. The delivery is often free, plus you can score a discount or a promotion.

The most popular food apps in Phuket are Foodpanda, GrabFood, Weserve, Lineman, and Aroi Dee. Most often, they present their menus in both Thai and English, so you won’t accidentally order spicy squid on a no-meat day. You can pay with cash or credit cards.

Conclusion: Celebrating Phuket Vegetarian Festival through food

As you meander through the bustling Phuket street food market, the squeaky chicken in the hands of a lady selling a variety of fun gimmicks is the only animal you’ll hear crying. In The Land of Smiles, walking through this vegetarian food paradise testifies that, for truly gastronomic hospitality, no animal has to hurt.

Phuket Vegetarian Festival transcends the boundaries of food and dives deep into the spiritual traditions of the local Chinese community

If you want to taste what Phuket is all about, visiting the town during the Phuket Vegetarian Festival will give you a solid overview. More than just a family event with culinary delights, this celebration carries the weight of Thailand’s rich cultural heritage.

Sure, any food lover would enjoy indulging in everything from savory street snacks to hearty vegan meals and delicate desserts. These will all captivate and delight the senses.

But Phuket Vegetarian Festival transcends the boundaries of food and dives deep into the spiritual traditions of the local Chinese community. These authentic and complex traditions remind us that our outputs relate to our inputs. We are what we consume.

Whether you’re a committed vegetarian or just a curious foodie, the Phuket Vegetarian Festival will take you on a truly immersive and unforgettable culinary journey. If you’re open to different interpretations, maybe cleansing your habits once in a while can even bring a blessing.

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