mountain Archives · Pipeaway mapping the extraordinary Sat, 02 Aug 2025 12:07:58 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=7.0 How to Plan a Multi-Generational Trip to the Smokies That Everyone Will Love https://www.pipeaway.com/multi-generational-trip-great-smoky-mountains/ https://www.pipeaway.com/multi-generational-trip-great-smoky-mountains/#respond Wed, 30 Jul 2025 21:17:32 +0000 https://www.pipeaway.com/?p=14764 Planning a multi-generational trip to the Great Smoky Mountains? Discover how to keep the entire family happy with these easy travel tips!

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Planning a vacation with the whole family – kids, parents, grandparents, maybe even an in-law or two – sounds like a great idea… until you sit down to figure it all out. Suddenly, you’re juggling different needs, energy levels, and definitions of “fun”.

The Great Smoky Mountains can be a getaway that works for everyone

But here’s the good news: the Great Smoky Mountains make this kind of trip easier. With the right approach, you can create a getaway that works for everyone and feels like a true vacation rather than a logistical headache.

Here’s how to make it all come together smoothly, with minimal stress and maximum memory-making.

1. Choose the Right Home Base for Your Group

First things first: where should you stay? The goal is to be close to the action without feeling overwhelmed by crowds. That’s why many families end up in Sevierville. It’s right near the heart of the Smokies, but with a more relaxed vibe than some of the bigger tourist towns.

Bonus: There are plenty of things to do in Sevierville TN that appeal to every generation. A great example? SkyLand Ranch. It’s packed with family-friendly charm, from the scenic chairlift ride up to the top, to the Wild Stallion Mountain Coaster – the longest in the Southeast. You get to control the speed, so it’s thrilling for the teens and gentle enough for cautious riders.

Not into coasters? Stroll the Legacy Lookout, a wide walkway 350 feet above the Parkway with mountain views that are hard to beat. There are also miniature animals to visit, live music, and a bakery that smells like heaven. Additionally, if someone in your group prefers not to ride the lift, shuttle or safari truck option is available. Everyone’s covered.

Men observing the landscape of the Great Smoky Mountains; photo by A n v e s h, Unsplash.
The Great Smoky Mountains – a place of unparalleled views

2. Mix High-Energy Fun with Downtime

What gets your teenager excited might wear out Grandpa. That’s why it helps to balance the days. Start your day with something active, such as a light hike, a ride, or an outdoor adventure – then slow it down later with a relaxed lunch or a show.

And don’t overschedule. Build in little breaks: for snacks, photos, or just sitting in the shade together. Those in-between moments are often where the real magic happens.

Want to have some fun? Explore these Pigeon Forge rides!
Bridge over a forest stream in the Great Smoky Mountains; photo by Loren Isaac, Unsplash.
Bridge the generational gap, one step at a time

3. Choose Activities That Offer Variety in One Spot

Multi-generational trips work best when people have the freedom to split up without actually going far. Look for attractions that combine rides, food, shopping, and chill-out spaces all in one place.

That way, Grandma can enjoy a scenic bench while the kids go wild on a ride, and someone else grabs coffee. Everyone’s doing their own thing, but still together. Plus, fewer transitions between locations mean less packing, parking, and planning. Wins all around.

4. Prioritize Kid-Friendly Zones

If there are toddlers or younger kids in the mix, don’t forget to carve out time for their kind of fun. A good playground or open area where they can safely run around is a lifesaver.

These spots allow kids to blow off steam while adults regroup, sip coffee, or just take a breather. Never underestimate the power of a well-placed slide or sandbox to keep the peace.

One is never too young to start exploring national parks. Meet Journey Castillo!

5. Make Meals Easy, Not a Battle

There’s nothing like a hungry, indecisive group to derail the day. When choosing places to visit, check establishments that offer a range of food options – ideally under one roof or nearby.

Think burgers, sandwiches, pizza, sweets – simple, familiar food that appeals to most ages. And if one person wants a full lunch while another’s just in it for a snack or coffee, it’s a huge plus when the spot can cater to both.

Clouds and fog wrapping the forested Great Smoky Mountains; photo by Kevin Long, Unsplash.
Smoky by name, smoky by nature

6. Build In Time to Just… Be There

Not every moment has to be packed with activity. The Smokies are beautiful, so give your group a chance to take it all in.

Whether it’s sitting on a bench with a view, walking along a scenic path, hiking on easy trails, or watching the sunset, these quiet breaks let everyone recharge.

The slower moments often become the most meaningful. They give you space to talk, laugh, and just be together without rushing to the next thing. For older family members, these pauses are especially appreciated. And for younger ones, it’s a chance to rest without a full nap.

7. Think About Access and Comfort for All

Even if most of your family members are mobile, accessibility matters. Look for areas with ramps, smooth paths, shuttle options, and ample places to sit.

It’s those little things (shade, benches, fewer stairs) that make a place feel welcoming to everyone. A bit of planning goes a long way in making the whole day easier and more inclusive.

Multi-Generational Trip to the Smokies – The Goal Is Connection

You don’t need a minute-by-minute itinerary or the “perfect” vacation. You just need thoughtful choices, a flexible mindset, and a place like the Smokies that offers a little something for everyone.

Kids squealing, grandparents chilling – that’s the real win

Before you know it, you’ll be watching the kids squeal on a coaster while the grandparents relax with a view, snapping photos you’ll treasure for years.

And that’s the real win: time together that actually feels good for everyone.

Are you considering a multi-generational trip to the Smokies? 
Pin this article for later!

Planning a multi-generational family trip to the Smoky Mountains? Discover how to keep kids, parents, and grandparents happy with the perfect mix of fun, relaxation, and easy travel tips.

Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links, meaning if you click on them and make a purchase, Pipeaway may make a small commission, at no additional cost to you. Thank you for supporting our work!

The photographs in this article have been sourced through Unsplash.
In the order of appearance, the authors are as follows: 
Great Smoky Mountains (cover image) - Steven Van Elk
Three men - A n v e s h 
Bridge - Loren Isaac
Mountain clouds - Kevin Long  
Forest path (pin image) - Kirk Thornton 

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Hallstätter See, Austria: A Dreamy Detour to a Fairytale Alpine Lake https://www.pipeaway.com/hallstatter-see-austria-lake-hallstatt/ https://www.pipeaway.com/hallstatter-see-austria-lake-hallstatt/#respond Sat, 21 Jun 2025 17:39:18 +0000 https://www.pipeaway.com/?p=14541 Hallstätter See is a dreamy lake in northern Austrian Alps. Explore rich history of its fairytale villages, scenic hiking trails, and crystal-clear waters!

The post Hallstätter See, Austria: A Dreamy Detour to a Fairytale Alpine Lake appeared first on Pipeaway.

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When I recently detoured from the A10 autobahn, the fastest route from Salzburg to the southern Austrian region of Carinthia, it wasn’t because I got lost. It was because I knew what was waiting just a 70-minute scenic ride away from Mozart‘s birthplace. A lake so stunning, it regularly breaks Instagram. Hallstätter See or Lake Hallstatt is so appealing that it often becomes a case study in overtourism.

In the heart of Austria’s Salt Domain, Hallstätter See is supplying the beat

For thousands of years, the local economy here rested on salt. Some 75 kilometers southeast of Salzburg (translates to Salt Castle), Hallstatt or Salt Settlement is home to some of the oldest salt mines in the world.

The prehistoric sea that secured “white gold” as a shaping force of the region’s wealth is not around anymore. But Hallstätter See, a significantly tinier body of water, became a magnet for tourist dollars.

In the heart of Austria’s Salzkammergut region (Salt Domain), Hallstätter See is supplying the beat. Surrounded by towering alpine peaks, this UNESCO World Heritage Site offers a unique blend of natural beauty and cultural heritage.

Its shores shimmer as you take a boat ride across the lake’s crystal-clear waters. The landscape is dramatic, and the villages dotting the area are full of charm.

Indeed, it’s a feast for the eyes, a peaceful escape if you want that. On the other hand, outdoor adventures enable active holidays for restless spirits.

Get ready to explore Hallstätter See, a visual masterpiece in the Upper Austria Alps!

Reflective surface of Hallstätter See, lake by the picturesque Hallstatt town, with snow-peaked mountain in the background; photo by Ljubomir Žarković / Unsplash.
Lake Hallstatt, when the snow powders the surrounding mountains

What to expect

Hallstätter See is a stunning expanse of water that reflects the surrounding mountains and sky like a mirror. On a calm day, its glassy surface is so still that it creates a perfect reflection of the imposing Dachstein range, adding to the surreal beauty of the landscape.

Whether viewed in the soft morning light, the golden hues of sunset, or under a dome of stars, the lake’s ever-changing appearance is a sight to behold.

The framing mountains provide a striking backdrop to the serene waters of Hallstätter See. Rugged peaks of the Dachstein Massif dominate the skyline. Lush, verdant forests blanket the lower slopes.

Small boat on a peaceful surface of Hallstätter See or Lake Hallstatt in Austria, as seen from a flowers-adorned lakeside terrace; photo by Benjamin Kaufmann / Unsplash.
Hallstätter See, the whispering “fjord” of Austria

Each season brings its own unique charm, from the vibrant colors of autumn foliage to the snow cover in winter.

The picturesque villages on the shores of Hallstätter See add to its appeal.

Hallstatt, with its pastel-colored houses clinging to the mountainside, is often described as one of the most beautiful villages in the world. So beautiful, in fact, that China built its own Hallstatt clone on an artificial lake in Guangdong Province in 2012.

Ironically, the Chinese copy-paste boosted fame for the Austrian original, launching an avalanche of tourists to Hallstätter See shores. The situation with overtourism got so out of hand that the town once put up a wooden fence to discourage scenic spot selfies.

Still, Hallstatt remains charming with its cobblestone streets and the iconic lakeside steeple of the Evangelical Church. If you’re after similar postcard-perfect views but fewer crowds, head over to Obertraun, just across the lake. It offers a more laid-back atmosphere.

How deep is Hallstätter See?

Hallstätter See’s deepest point is at 125 meters (410 feet). That makes it one of Austria’s deeper alpine lakes. Hallstätter See underwater is deep enough to intrigue scuba divers, mystery lovers, and anyone who enjoys the idea of ancient secrets resting beneath still waters.

While modest in comparison to the lakes in the neighborhood, Hallstätter See’s size is still impressive. This glacially carved alpine lake covers approximately 8.5 square kilometers (or about 3.3 square miles). Nearly 8 kilometers long and more than 2 kilometers wide, its drama lies in how it’s set: narrow, deep, and hugged tightly by towering cliffs.

Certainly, Lake Hallstatt is big enough to paddle across, dive into, bike around, and still feel like there’s more to explore.

Hallstatt history

Hallstatt isn’t just a pretty place. It lent its name to an entire chunk of European prehistory: the Hallstatt Period, aka the early Iron Age (8th to 6th centuries BC). This little village became significant for adopting ironmaking, replacing cremation with burials, and developing trade networks.

Steeple of lakeside Evangelical Church in Hallstatt, Austria; photo by Antonis Tsatas, Unsplash.
Evangelical Church steeple, one of the most recognizable Hallstatt vistas

Hallstatt became the namesake of the culture because of the rich archeological finds at its cemetery and salt mines, which have been in operation for three millennia. Hallstatt Museum houses a collection of these discoveries.

If your interests lean toward the macabre, behind the Maria Himmelfahrt Church, there’s the Michaelskapelle (St. Michael’s Chapel), where half of the 1,200 displayed skulls are hand-painted. The coloring of bones at Beinhaus Hallstatt (one of the period’s charnel houses) was a direct consequence of the position of the cemetery, hemmed in by mountains and the lake. When space ran out, older graves were exhumed, and the painting ritual became a second farewell to long-past residents.

In 1997, the Hallstatt-Dachstein/Salzkammergut Cultural Landscape was recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its cultural and natural significance.

Lakeside houses of Hallstatt, on Hallstätter See lake, Austria; photo by Free Walking Tour Salzburg / Unsplash.
(Sur)real estate – dreamy lakeside houses of Hallstatt

The same landscape has played the role of an artistic muse, too. The Hallstätter See and its surroundings have stirred the imaginations of countless artists, from writers like Adalbert Stifler and Franz Grillparzer, to notable painters of the Biedermeier and Romantic eras like Franz Steinfeld and Ferdinand Georg Waldmüller.

Top Things to Do at Hallstätter See

Exploring Hallstätter See offers a wealth of activities and attractions. Here are some ideas for your inspiration!

1. Hallstätter See swimming

Yes, you can swim in Hallstätter See! But be warned: Hallstätter See water temperature is on the cooler side, clocking in at refreshing 16–22°C (61–72°F) in summer.

Some of the best beaches around are Badeinsel Hallstatt (a bathing island near Hallstatt center), Strandbad Obertraun (a spacious bathing area with grassy lawns, shady trees, and barbecue facilities), and Strandbad Untersee (a playground-equipped beach on the lake’s northern shore).

A family of swans swimming in Hallstätter See, Lake Hallstatt in Austria; photo by Benjamin Kaufmann, Unsplash.
Hallstätter See is a family-friendly lake

If you’re interested in bathing with a dog at Hallstätter See, a pet-friendly beach is Landbettler, between Hallstatt and Obertraun. Here, your four-legged companion can join in the splashy fun and even use a dog toilet.

There is also a dedicated FKK area at Hallstätter See. Since 1987, Obertraun’s Winkl district has had a lakeside stretch dedicated to nudists (north of the main beach area).

Strandbad Untersee also has a designated nudist zone.

2. Hallstätter See diving

Diving in Hallstätter See is kind of surreal. It’s not just clear water and curious fish in Lake Hallstatt (you’ll spot whitefish, brown trout, and pike, especially in September). This place offers a history-soaked plunge into one of Austria’s most fascinating alpine lakes.

During your underwater archaeology, you can explore sunken trees from the 5th century, preserved by cold, mineral-rich waters. Then there’s the wreck of the excursion ship Kronprinz Rudolf, or the wooden salt-transport ship Salzmützen. If you’re a diving couple, you can even exchange vows in Hallstätter See; there’s an underwater altar where you can gargle your “I do”.

While beginners can enjoy guided shallower areas, the Hallstätter See dive conditions are more suitable for intermediate and advanced divers. Water is cold year-round, so drysuits or thick wetsuits are standard kit. Visibility is often best in cooler months, unless there’s been a long spell of heavy rain.

Unfortunately, there are no diving centers on Hallstätter See. The closest scuba base for info, paperwork, and moral support is Tauchcenter Dachstein-Salzkammergut at nearby Lake Wolfgang.

Apple tree growing on the shore of Hallstätter See, Austrian Alpine lake, with clouds floating in front of the forested mountain slopes in the background; photo by Daniela Holzer, Unsplash.
At Lake Hallstatt, even apple picking can be a water sport

3. Boat Tours on Hallstätter See

A popular way to experience the lake is by taking a boat tour – classic ones depart from Hallstatt and Obertraun.

Whether you’re sipping espresso on a guided cruise or channelling your inner gondolier on a rented rowboat, gliding across the tranquil waters provides unparalleled panoramic views of the Dachstein Alps.

If you prefer a more active adventure, kayaking and stand up paddling (SUP) on Hallstätter See allow you to navigate the lake at your own pace and discover secluded coves.

4. Hiking around Hallstätter See

Hiking in the Hallstätter See region is a favorite pastime and a cultural rite, ranging from easy lakeside paths to heart-pounding mountain hikes with dramatic scenery.

Whatever your skill level, the Dachstein Giant Ice Cave and the Five Fingers viewing platform are must-visit attractions.

Ice palace in the Dachstein Giant Ice Cave at the foot of the Krippenstein; photo by Sandra Grünewald / Unsplash.
Ice palace in the Dachstein Giant Ice Cave, worthy of Hallstatt ice queen

The Ice Cave, accessible via a Dachstein Krippenstein cable car from Obertraun (hop off at the Middle Station and take a 15-minute uphill walk), offers a surreal journey through a frozen wonderland of ice formations and glacial tunnels. A 50-minute tour guides you through surreal ice palaces, cold underground tunnels, and even over a rope bridge suspended above a 30-meter abyss.

For more adventure, continue to the Mammut Cave, one of the largest karst cave systems in the world. Out of 70 km of passageways, only a one-kilometer section is open to visitors, unlike, for instance, at nominally smaller Slovenia‘s Postojna Cave, whose sheer amount of accessible kilometers makes it the largest European show cave.

Hike onward to the Five Fingers, a hand-shaped observation deck hanging over the cliffside, 400 meters above Hallstätter See. The panoramic views will stretch as far as the eye can see.

The view of Hallstätter See or Lake Hallstatt from hand-shaped Five Fingers viewing platform: photo by Ben Michel / Unsplash.
On Five Fingers viewing platform, the middle one is the shyest one

If you’re afraid of heights or enclosed spaces, there’s always a more relaxed hike down below. The circular trail around the lake (known as Hallstätter See Rundweg) lets you experience it from just about every angle. The length of the scenic hiking route is 23 kilometers, and you’d need at least 5 hours for the full loop. Bring a picnic.

If you decide on Hallstätter See Rundweg cycling, it should take 3.5 hours at a relaxed pace. Start in Hallstatt and head counterclockwise around the lake. This route combines the Ostuferradweg (East Shore Cycleway) – a quiet, lakeside trail – with sections on public roads along the west side. Early mornings and late afternoons offer better light and fewer crowds.

5. Klettersteig – Via Ferrata Challenge

Think you’ve got what it takes to conquer the Alps?

The Hallstätter See Klettersteig, better known as the Seewand Klettersteig, is the most challenging via ferrata (climbing route) in the region and one of the toughest in the entire Alpine arc. It clings to the dramatic Seewand cliffs above the southern end of Lake Hallstatt, offering unbeatable views and a serious adrenaline rush for seasoned climbers.

Its difficulty rating is D/E (very difficult), the elevation gain is 750 meters, and it could take you between 5 and 8 hours to finish (depending on pace and panic level). The route is extremely steep and exposed, with no emergency exits, and will test even the experienced climbers. Bring full via ferrata gear and peak physical fitness!

A word to the wise: many underestimate Seewand Klettersteig. Rescue operations are frequent, and you really don’t want to become a helicopter anecdote. So approach it with respect!

Climber climbing Rosina Via Ferrata in Austria, above a waterfall; photo by Maja Kochanowska / Unsplash.
For even more via ferrata challenges in the region, head to Rosina, the most demanding path in Silberkar Canyon

6. Hallstätter See paragliding

A bench on the Krippenstein mountain plateau with a view of the Lake Hallstatt at the foothill, Austria; photo by Victor Malyushev / Unsplash.
The view from the Krippenstein plateau, the launching pad for paragliders

Who needs a drone when you can take to the skies? Paragliding over Hallstätter See is your chance to soar like an eagle, or at least float like a very excited human in a harness.

The adventure begins at Mount Krippenstein (2,100 m) above Obertraun. The launch site is just a 10-minute walk from the cable car’s mountain station. From here, it’s an easy take-off with a certified tandem pilot (exclusively available through Sky Club Austria).

You’ll drift over the Five Fingers viewing platform, taking in a jaw-dropping panorama of the Dachstein Massif and the entire Hallstätter See.

7. Visiting Salzwelten, the Hallstatt Salt Mine

History buffs love visiting the Salzwelten Hallstatt (Hallstatt Salt Mine) on Salzberg (Salt Mountain), one of the oldest in the world. Some of its tunnels may date back over 7,000 years.

The guided tours dig deep into the history of salt mining and its impact on the region, revealing how “white gold” powered the rise of Hallstatt long before it became selfie central.

You’ll visit the subterranean tunnels with Europe’s oldest wooden staircase (2,800 years old), have an insight into miners’ life at the Bronze Age Cinema, and ride a 64-meter-long miners’ slide.

To reach the Hallstatt Salt Mine, ride Salzbergbahn, a funicular that zips you from the valley up the mountain in minutes.

Note: As the funicular is under renovation until summer 2026, the only way up is via 800 stairs.

Once on top, in front of the historic Rudolfsturm Restaurant, you’ll find Hallstatt Skywalk, or World Heritage View, a free-floating observation deck that juts 12 meters out from the cliffside. It’s a spectacular vantage point for possibly the best view of Hallstätter See, the Dachstein Mountains, and Hallstatt’s iconic rooftops.

Nearby, you can also visit Schaugrab, a walk-in burial site that provides a privileged glimpse into ancient Hallstatt Culture death rituals.

See the Hallstätter See from above in my YouTube video made with a drone!

 

Best Time to Visit Hallstätter See

Wondering when to visit Hallstätter See? The best months to go to Hallstatt are typically considered May and June, with all summer months following. But Hallstätter See is a year-round destination, and each season brings its charm.

Spring, from April to June, is a wonderful time to visit as the region awakens from hibernation. The weather is mild, and the landscape bursts with blooming flowers and lush greenery. This is an ideal time for hiking, especially for those who wish to enjoy the trails without crowds.

Summer, from July to August, is the peak tourist season, but for good reason. The weather is warm, and the days are long, ideal for outdoor adventures, from hiking to mountain biking. Water sports are also popular during this time, while vibrant villages come alive with festivals and events. As this is the busiest time of the year, it’s essential to book accommodation in advance.

Hallstatt village on the shores of Hallstätter See in autumn, with clouds wrapping the mountain covered in fall foliage; photo by Alex Foret, Unsplash.
Fall in love with autumn colors of Hallstatt

Autumn, especially September and October, is a magical period to visit Hallstätter See. The changing fall foliage paints the landscape in brilliant hues of red, orange, and gold, creating a stunning contrast against the blue waters of the lake. The weather is cooler, making it comfortable for outdoor activities, and the crowds begin to thin out, offering a more relaxed experience.

Winter, from December to February, transforms Hallstätter See into a snowy wonderland. The Christmas markets, alpine chalets, and twinkling lights add a festive charm, making it a delightful time to visit. For winter sport lovers (from skiing and snowshoeing to ice swimming), this is a magical destination.

Parts of Hallstätter See in winter do freeze (mostly the northern section, away from the river Traun). However, ice skating directly on the lake isn’t officially managed, and thin ice can be deceptive and dangerous. Better stay on shore and reflect on the old Disney rumor: Did Hallstatt inspire “Frozen”?

Tips for exploring Hallstätter See

With the right tips and preparations, exploring Hallstätter See can be an unforgettable experience. Consider this:

  1. Pack according to the season. Each season offers unique opportunities and activities, so consider what you want to experience and pack accordingly. Comfortable walking shoes and layered clothing are always recommended. You’ll also want weather-specific extras, depending on your plans (swimwear, gloves, or a raincoat).
  2. Mix and match transport options. To get the most out of your Hallstätter See visit, taking advantage of various modes of transportation is a smart choice. Walking and hiking are great ways to access quieter corners, renting a bicycle allows you to cover more ground, while boats and ferries provide a different perspective of the lake. Use public transport whenever possible, as Hallstatt can be a parking nightmare.
  3. Stay thoughtful. With Hallstatt’s ever-growing popularity, it’s essential to behave responsibly in order not to jeopardize its charm. Respect local signs and quiet zones, especially near homes. Stick to marked trails while hiking, avoid trampling nature for a selfie, be mindful of wildlife, and dispose of waste properly. Support eco-conscious accommodations and businesses, and avoid single-use plastics.
  4. Don’t overdo it with photography. At one of the most photographed places in Europe, capturing memories with a camera is kind of expected. But it is also important to take moments to simply enjoy the beauty of Hallstätter See without the urge to document every swan. To not contribute to the crowding, get up early, and enjoy the privilege of capturing the sights in the best light.
A person with an umbrella looking at a misty Hallstätter See lake in autumn, Austria; photo by Çağlar Canbay, Unsplash.
An umbrella is an infallible prop for autumn visits

How to Get to Hallstätter See

Located in the northern Austrian Alps, about 1 hour southeast of Salzburg and 2.5 hours west of Vienna, reaching Hallstätter See is quite straightforward and simple.

  • By air: The nearest major Austrian airports are in Salzburg (approx. 75 km) and Vienna (approx. 280 km). Another option is to fly into Munich, Germany (approx. 220 km). From any of these airports, continue by train or car to reach the lake region.
  • By train: The scenic train journey from Salzburg or Vienna leads to Bad Ischl or Attnang-Puchheim, where you can transfer to a local bus to Hallstatt, or a train to Hallstatt Bahnhof (the station on the opposite side of the lake). A short ferry ride across Hallstätter See takes you directly into the village.
  • By car: Drive through the winding roads of the Austrian countryside with rewarding views. Parking is limited and pricey in Hallstatt, so plan accordingly.

Hotels Near Hallstätter See

Where to stay near Hallstätter See? Hallstatt and its surrounding areas offer a variety of accommodation options to suit different preferences and budgets.

    • Luxury: Heritage Hotel Hallstatt in the heart of the old town offers lake views, modern comforts, and historic charm. Available on Booking, Agoda, Trip, or Expedia.
    • Mid-range: Seehotel Grüner Baum combines classic Austrian elegance, hearty breakfasts, and views worth waking up early for. Reserve your room directly on Booking, Agoda, Trip, or Expedia.
    • Budget: This area is hardly a budget backpacker mecca. But guesthouses in less trending towns like Obertraun offer more affordable options with easy access.
      For instance, Camping Park am See is a quirky collection of unique, restored vintage trailers. You might fall in love just by looking at them. Check them out on Booking or Agoda.
      Another Obertraun option is Seehotel am Hallstättersee, a family-oriented place with a pool and kids’ playground. You can see this option on Booking, Agoda, or Trip.
      In Bad Goisern, a well-located and even more wallet-friendly base is the Good-Goisern Hotel. Compare rates for your dates on Booking and Agoda.

    If your budget and booking luck allow, try to stay right on the lake’s edge for the most immersive experience.

    Hallstätter See, Austria – Conclusion

    For me, Hallstätter See was sadly just a quick pause, a roadside attraction on my journey from Central to Southern Europe. Given more time, I can see how easily this mirror-like lake, surrounded by alpine adventures and storybook villages, could charm you into a much longer stay. How refreshing would it feel to immerse oneself in this beautiful stopover for an entire week!

    Hallstätter See feels like an intimate variation of a Nordic fjord

    Days spent in leisurely strolls or exhilarating hikes, uncovering the area’s rich history and cultural surprises, would make your thoughts drift away into the mysteries and intrigues of this enchanting Austrian corner.

    Lake Hallstatt’s sunken forests and silent shipwrecks, salt-rich gateways to the underworld of the mountains, and a chapel filled with painted skulls – it can all fuel your imagination as you observe misty mornings from steep shores.

    No, Hallstatt probably wasn’t the blueprint for Elsa‘s royal home of Arendelle. The official design inspiration credits Akershus Fortress in Oslo, Norway. But Hallstätter See does feel like an intimate variation of a Nordic fjord.

    Despite just being a whispering version of a natural amphitheater, Lake Hallstatt still comes with a similar sense of otherworldliness and timelessness, its grand Scandinavian cousins are known for.

    Yes, it’s beautiful. Yes, it’s busy. And yes, Hallstätter See is absolutely worth it.

    Do you like Hallstätter See?
    Pin this article for later!

    Hallstätter See or Lake Hallstatt is a dreamy Alpine lake in Austria, with hiking trails, boat tours, and charming fairytale villages. Find the tips on visiting and the best places to stay near Hallstatt!

    Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links, meaning if you click on them and make a purchase, Pipeaway may make a small commission, at no additional cost to you. Thank you for supporting our work!
    
    The photographs in this article have been sourced through Unsplash.
    In the order of appearance, the authors are as follows: 
    Hallstatt panorama - Ljubomir Žarković 
    Boat and swans - Benjamin Kaufmann
    Church steeple - Antonis Tsatas 
    Houses - Free Walking Tour Salzburg 
    Apple tree - Daniela Holzer
    Ice cave - Sandra Grünewald
    Five Fingers - Ben Michel
    Via ferrata Rosina - Maja Kochanowska
    Bench view - Victor Malyushev
    Hallstatt in autumn - Alex Foret 
    Umbrella - Çağlar Canbay
    Mountain view of the lake (pin image) - Tatiana Rudneva 

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Bisse du Torrent Neuf Hike: Cliffside Waterways and Suspension Bridges of Savièse https://www.pipeaway.com/bisse-du-torrent-neuf-hike-saviese/ https://www.pipeaway.com/bisse-du-torrent-neuf-hike-saviese/#respond Mon, 05 May 2025 15:14:59 +0000 https://www.pipeaway.com/?p=14034 Hike the dramatic Bisse du Torrent Neuf in the Swiss Alps - a stunning blend of vertigo-inducing bridges, historic water canals, and unforgettable mountain scenery above Sion.

The post Bisse du Torrent Neuf Hike: Cliffside Waterways and Suspension Bridges of Savièse appeared first on Pipeaway.

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With a backpack strapped like a seasoned trekker, he stops in front of the first suspension bridge, not to enjoy the view. Hiking along exposed cliffs is one thing, but stepping onto a swaying metal structure dangling over the abyss brings hesitation. There’s no loop on the Bisse du Torrent Neuf hike, no shortcut out. He knows: if he conquers the discomfort of crossing now, he’ll have to do it again on the way back. Four footbridges, times two. Eight knee-buckling moments where every hint of a wind gust slices at his legs, and squawking eagles overhead sound like ominous ambassadors of the Leuk Charnel House. Bisse de Savièse is not an ordinary stream-side stroll through the picturesque Swiss Alps. It is a daring challenge that tests the man’s vertigo.

In the cliffs of Prabé Mountain, the daredevil carpenters of the Middle Ages created an impressive irrigation canal known as the Bisse du Torrent Neuf or Bisse de Savièse

While filming another uninterrupted Pipeaway Walk, the suspension bridges of Bisse du Torrent Neuf became stops where I would take a breather, too. As soon as someone stepped onto one, it would rock side to side, messing with my balance as I tried to achieve stable footage. These imposing modern structures, as fascinating as the wooden creations of medieval water tamers they accompany, acted as a hike bottleneck. As I’d wait for them to clear, I would also come face-to-face with him, a young local psyching himself up for his “small step for a man”.

I won’t pretend I’m immune to the creeps of the heights. Walking across a metal grid that lets you peer straight through to the unsettling drop below, putting all your trust in the expertise of the engineers, requires switching off the instinctive fight-or-flight response. Maybe I’m just masking my phobias in the filming-requirement excuse, while I just want a solo moment when those Hitchcockian screeching eagles grab a ride on the air stream.

High above the Rhône Valley, nestled in the cliffs of Prabé Mountain, the daredevil carpenters of the Middle Ages created an impressive irrigation canal known as the Bisse du Torrent Neuf or Bisse de Savièse.

Today, with its restored glory, this meeting point of natural beauty, historical significance, and a hearty dose of adrenaline acts as a hiking trail that takes one’s breath away both metaphorically and literally. Yet somehow, this uniquely Swiss adventure experience still flies under the radar of most tourists.

So, shall we take on the Bisse du Torrent Neuf together? Don’t look down.

People walking on the edge of the exposed cliff during the Bisse du Torrent Neuf hike in Saviese, Switzerland; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Put on your Spider-Man suit, and let’s go!

What is the Bisse du Torrent Neuf?

The Bisse du Torrent Neuf is part of a unique network of historic irrigation canals, called bisses, found only in Switzerland’s canton of Valais. The cultural significance of these iconic open-air waterway systems was so high that a bisse image even made it onto the Swiss 100-franc banknote.

Wooden construction of Bisse du Torrent Neuf, attached to the rock face of the mountain in Swiss Alps, Saviese, with a view of the forested Morge Valley; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Like a gutter on the edges of the roof on houses, bisse is carrying water from the roof of the mountains

Built in the 15th century, Bisse du Torrent Neuf originally carried water from the Nétage River, and later from the Morge, to the sun-drenched slopes of Savièse, where it was used to irrigate vineyards, orchards, fields, and pastures.

Today, the most daring irrigation project has been reimagined as a hiking trail, with spectacular views of the surrounding cliffs and valleys.

The round-trip hike is just over 8 kilometers long, traversing an altitude between 1.100 and 1.300 meters, and is generally open from May to October, weather permitting.

The Bisse du Torrent Neuf hike is considered easy but dizzy. The trail is safe and accessible even to beginners, but it is not recommended for those with vertigo due to its dramatic cliffside paths.

If you like living on the edge, consider hiking to these famous rocks in Norway!

Bisse du Torrent Neuf history

The history of Bisse du Torrent Neuf begins in the 15th century, when the farmers of Savièse needed a reliable way to transport water to their dry, sunbaked lands. Their solution would become one of the boldest feats of medieval Swiss engineering.

As its name (‘new torrent’) implies, there was an even earlier canal bringing water from the Morge Valley to the Saviésan hillside – Croué Torin (‘bad torrent’, or ‘old torrent’). This one was filling into Étang de Mouchy, a lake sitting at around 1,000 meters in altitude. Gravity has its limits; this bisse couldn’t irrigate the higher areas of Savièse. Other bisses like Tsampé and Déjore, fed by the Sionne River, were already overburdened.

So between 1430 and 1448, the community rolled up its sleeves for a large-scale project – building Bisse du Torrent Neuf, a vital artery for their agriculture.

Vintage photograph of Swiss farmers, workers, and a priest, standing on the wooden planks on the cliffs of the Prabé Mountain where they built Bisse du Torrent Neuf; photograph from the 1930s, copyright Bisse de Saviese.
The photograph from the 1930s, after half a millennium of bisse maintenance (© Bisse de Savièse)

Unlike the gently sloping hillside bisses, this new canal boldly clung to sheer cliffs, supported by wooden structures hundreds of meters above the valley floor. It was a technical marvel of its time. And a dangerous one. Local lore claims that some people even made their confessions before walking certain segments.

The bisse went through several upgrades. In 1550, its route was modified to increase water flow by constructing the famous Wall of the Branlires, where wooden canals were mounted directly onto the rock face. In 1880, the Bisse du Torrent Neuf was extended even further to pull water directly from the Morge River.

To secure a water supply for the entire municipality once and for all, Savièse started digging a tunnel through Prabé Mountain in 1933. The 4.5-kilometer-long water system linking Mayens-de-la-Zour to Tsandra would open in 1935, essentially obliterating Bisse du Torrent Neuf’s importance.

Abandoned and left to decay, much of the wooden scaffolding clinging to the walls of the Prabé crumbled, and the once-essential aqueduct quietly faded into oblivion.

Information board at Bisse du Torrent Neuf, displaying three different construction techniques: canals dug in the soil, canals cut into the rock, and canals suspended on wooden scaffolding attached to the mountain; copyright Association for the Preservation of the Torrent-Neuf.
Information board explaining bisse construction techniques: the canal can be dug in the soil, cut into the rock, or hang from it on wooden scaffolding

It wasn’t until the early 2000s that local authorities, in cooperation with the Association for the Preservation of the Torrent-Neuf, decided to restore and refill parts of the bisse – not for farmers, but for hikers.

In 2009, after years of careful work, the Bisse du Torrent Neuf was reborn, now featuring four dramatic suspension bridges that made the scenic trail safer and more accessible.

The Swiss mountains are the leitmotif of the Eurovision 2025 in Basel, too. Check it out!

Hiking the Bisse du Torrent Neuf Trail

The hike along the Bisse du Torrent Neuf is a rewarding mix of gentle paths, heart-thumping passages, and dramatic landscapes.

Bisse du Torrent Neuf cliff walk pathway in Saviese, Switzerland; photo by Ivan Kralj.
No need for directions; just go straight ahead!

The walk that locals call the Balade du Bisse du Torrent Neuf (not to be confused with the ballad) is an out-and-back trail, typically starting from the Prafirmin area.

The full hike, covering roughly 8 kilometers in total, takes about 3 hours round-trip. Unless you’re stopping every five minutes to mutter “Wow”.

The trail is considered easy to moderate and is mostly flat, following the original route of the bisse. It’s suitable for children, as long as they are sure-footed. A head for heights is essential, as parts of the path hug steep cliff faces. The good news? All exposed sections are protected by sturdy railings, including the spectacular suspension bridges.

Whether you do the full hike or just walk partway to snap a few selfies, the Bisse du Torrent Neuf promises panoramic views, thrilling footbridges, and a tangible connection to centuries of mountain life in Valais.

Bisse du Torrent Neuf Trail Essentials

🥾 Difficulty level: Easy to moderate 📏 Distance: 8.8 km (round trip) 🏔 Altitude: Min 1,125 m / Max 1,265 m 📈 Elevation gain: 140 m ⏱ Duration: ~3 hours 🧭 Trail type: Out-and-back 🚸 Family friendly: Yes (with supervision on cliffside sections) 💰 Entrance fee: Free 👣 Annual visitors: Approx. 100,000 📅 Best time to visit: May 1st - November 1st (closed outside these dates) 🌐 More info: Visit the Bisse du Torrent Neuf official website for current updates

Highlights along the Torrent Neuf trail

What makes the Bisse du Torrent Neuf hike truly unforgettable are the experiences along the way. Sure, the views will drain your camera batteries, but it’s the little surprises, clever engineering, and occasional goat-antelope cameo that elevate this trail from scenic stroll to adventure story.

Suspension bridges

The four suspension bridges along the trail offer a thrilling yet secure way to cross ravines and follow the bisse where the terrain drops away dramatically. Each bridge is about 90 meters long, it tests both your nerves and your ankle strength, and delivers stunning views of the valley and surrounding peaks.

Cliff-carved pathways & tunnel

Sections of the trail are literally chiseled into the rock walls, giving you a firsthand look at the ingenuity of the original stream tamers. There’s also a short tunnel, cut through the mountain to replace a collapsed wooden stretch.

Cliffside pathway following the Bisse du Torrent Neuf in Saviese, Switzerland; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Living on the Alps’ edge

Panoramic viewpoints & wildlife

Several benches and lookouts along the trail make it easy to stop, breathe, and gawk at the majestic scenery. If you’re lucky (and quiet), you might spot a chamois (small but agile goat-antelope), a royal eagle (with a 2.5-meter wingspan), oak jays, marmots, hares, and other alpine wildlife.

Educational signage

Throughout the walk, you’ll find interpretive panels that explain Bisse du Torrent Neuf construction techniques, the distribution of water through the tunnels, and local fauna, existing and extinct. It’s like hiking through a living museum, with a view.

Information board with a map of Bisse du Torrent Neuf at P2 Parking in Saviese, a starting point of the hike; copyright geo.admin.ch.
Bisse du Torrent Neuf map (© geo.admin.ch)

Bisse du Torrent Neuf itinerary – a step-by-step guide

Now that you have an overview of what to expect, let’s dive deeper into the actual trail. Here’s how to hike Bisse du Torrent Neuf!

Bisse du Torrent Neuf access

The Bisse du Torrent Neuf is located above Savièse in Central Valais, on the right bank of the Rhône, just above Sion.

The Bisse du Torrent Neuf trail is clearly marked and maintained, starting from Ste-Marguerite Chapel all the way to Brac.

But hikers’ walk normally begins at the Bisse du Torrent Neuf parking lot, and there are two main ones.

P1 parking, located at the junction of Rte de Binii and Rte des Etangs, is a larger one. More spots, more steps. To reach the official start of the trail from here, you’ll have to walk 40 minutes.

P2 parking, found at the crossroads of Rte Forestière and Chem. Sainte-Marguerite is smaller but closer to the trail. If you come early, and it’s not a busy weekend, you shouldn’t have a problem finding a parking spot here, cutting your walk to the trail entrance to just 20 minutes. For a visual preview, watch Pipeaway Walk – the video begins from this Torrent Neuf parking.

There is an even closer, unofficial place to park a car. Rte Forestière continues westward, and some people leave their vehicles by the road, at the first hairpin turn. Starting the trek from here shaves off ten more minutes, but parking space is limited.

Reaching Chapelle Sainte-Marguerite

From P2 parking, just after an info board, a trail climbs uphill from the Rte Forestière (on the right-hand side). Follow it until you reach the bisse, then turn left (west) and continue upstream.

The forest path through the first part of the Bisse du Torrent Neuf hike following an irrigation canal in Saviese, Switzerland; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Welcome to the bisse, the lifeblood of the mountains!

Roughly 200 meters in, you’ll briefly cross the serpentine Rte Forestière again, leaving the “unofficial parking place” on your left, and continue into a shady, peaceful forest.

The walk is pleasant, sprinkled with occasional sluice doors used to divert the bisse flow toward thirsty fields during allocated time slots. These water rights normally corresponded to the size of one’s land.

The first part of the forest path also features the Stations of the Cross. Via Crucis will bring you to Saint Marguerite Chapel, a humble Catholic sanctuary built in the early 15th century, at the same time as the bisse itself.

Exterior of forest-surrounded Chapel of Saint Marguerite in Saviese, Switzerland, at the Bisse du Torrent Neuf; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Saint Marguerite Chapel above the bisse

Back then, workers who constructed the irrigation canal would pray here before setting off, asking Saint Marguerite, the dragon-slaying martyr and patron saint of peasants, for a safe return. You can ask for the blessing too, while you ring the chapel’s bell.

In case the chapel’s annex room is open, you can find a moment of contemplation there – on the wall, there’s a drawing of another Saint Marguerite – Marguerite Bays, the 19th-century Swiss mystic who lived with stigmata wounds.

Garden gnome house on the Bisse du Torrent Neuf trail in Saviese, Switzerland; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Gnome’s territory – a mini house for a mini rest

Buvette des Vouasseurs

The first-door neighbor to the chapel (if you don’t count a garden-gnome inhabited miniature chalet near the wooden waterwheel) is a refreshment stop called Buvette des Vouasseurs.

The cozy mountainside café is a scenic spot to rest and enjoy local delicacies like planchettes (traditional Swiss platters stacked with cheese, cured meats, and sausages) or gâteau Saviésan (potato-leek pie flavored with lardons and Raclette cheese). Expect to spend CHF 27-35 per dish.

In May, Buvette des Vouasseurs works only on weekends, while from June to late October it operates every day, as long as the weather conditions are good (the same applies to Bisse du Torrent Neuf).

Buvette des Vouasseurs on Bisse du Torrent Neuf hiking trail, as seen from the helicopter.
Buvette des Vouasseurs, from oak jay’s perspective

Waterfall

“Tant que l’eau coulera, l’homme vivra!” (“As long as the water flows, man will live!”), Léon Courtine famously said at the Bisse du Torrent Neuf inauguration ceremony on 22 August, 2009.

Born in 1910, this centenarian commemorated on a plaque at the start of this trail section was among the last caretakers of the original bisse system before it fell silent in 1934.

This part of the path starts with several artificial cascades. A concrete cross submerged in the streambed reveals an engraved year, 1430, acting as a cornerstone of this historic waterway that shaped the lives of local communities.

Underwater cross marked with a year 1430 when the Bisse du Torrent Neuf was constructed in Saviese, Switzerland; photo by Ivan Kralj.
The cross that survived under the bisse’s flow for over five centuries

But as you walk further, the burble grows stronger, until you reach a small forest waterfall crashing down into the bisse.

Bisse du Torrent Neuf entrance gate

Soon, you’ll reach the official entrance gate of the Bisse du Torrent Neuf promenade.

Entrance gate of the Bisse du Torrent Neuf hike in Saviese, Switzerland; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Exiting the forest, entering the cliffs zone

The gate is closed in winter and during rainy and windy weather. In these conditions, walking the high paths would be extremely dangerous.

As you stroll along the wooden, rocky, or soil pathway, you can explore different techniques of bisse construction, explained on a didactic panel.

Of course, if you’re not too distracted by the beautiful views of the Morge River gorge, carving its way toward the Rhône. In medieval times, this valley was the borderland between the House of Savoy and the Bishopric of Sion. These days, the river separates Savièse from Conthey.

First suspension bridge

Marked as La Chómóréta, the first suspended footbridge of the Bisse du Torrent Neuf (or Passerelle du Torrent-Neuf 1) is 87 meters long.

Constructed from metal grating for the walkway and wire mesh fencing for the railings, the bridge exposes views of the ground, 35 meters below. The steep slope, however, makes it feel even higher.

Get an impression of vibrations as you walk over the first suspension bridge in this YouTube short video!

 

Remember, back in the days, people didn’t have such bridges to cross the yawning void; they had to navigate the cliffs via precarious wooden planks bolted into sheer rock. With no guardrails or helmets. Don’t you feel better swaying a bit instead?

The suspension bridge is the first real test of your vertigo and faith, also a psychological turning point. If you can manage this thrilling experience surrounded by breathtaking cliffs and valleys, you’re good to commit to the rest of the route, and new pedestrian bridges coming up.

Bronze bear

The next information display will teach you about the local wildlife. But the real surprise comes around the corner, on the section named Le Mont de Chómóréta. A life-sized bronze statue of a bear (ours en bronze)!

Bronze sculpture of a brown bear by the artist Véronique Olivier, on the Bisse du Torrent Neuf hiking trail in Saviese, Switzerland; photo by Ivan Kralj.
If it’s brown, lie down. Well, not with this one.

The bear stands calmly, facing out toward the vast Rhône Valley, as if contemplating the view, just like the hikers passing by.

Bears once roamed the Swiss Alps, though today they are extinct in the region. The last bear in Valais was shot in 1865, in Itravers.

Véronique Olivier’s sculpture nods to that lost wilderness and invites you to pause and reflect. Of course, taking a quirky selfie with “the guardian of the gorge” is more than welcome.

Second suspension bridge

After following the trail along the cliff edges, you’ll first arrive at a rock bridge decorated with a gigantic vintage poster. The black-and-white image from the 1930s shows workers, a priest, a woman with a headscarf, and a man with a walking stick, all balancing on narrow planks above a terrifying abyss.

Wooden path leading to the stone bridge, followed by a metal suspended bridge, along the Bisse du Torrent Neuf, a hiking trail in Saviese, Switzerland, there is a large vintage poster showing an image of the locals in the 1930s balancing on the wooden planks above the abyss; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Wooden path leading to stone bridge leading to metal suspension bridge

If that makes your stomach flip, you can always rest in a cozy stone-and-wood refuge (Le Mont de Barme noire) and wait here for the return of your braver hiking companions.

But if you’re ready to level up, another steel-cabled pedestrian bridge awaits, this time with side netting that should protect you from pieces of rock falling from the mountain.

The second suspension bridge (or Passerelle du Torrent-Neuf 2) is slightly longer than the first one, reaching 95 meters in length.

Second suspension bridge at Bisse de Saviese hike, with side netting protecting from the rockfall, there's a shadow of a photographer visible on the floor of the gorge; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Shadow selfie at the second suspension bridge

Le Couloir des Primevères panorama

As you continue your hike, the trail morphs into Le Couloir des Primevères (the Primrose Corridor), a rocky section where water spills directly over the path, cascading from the slopes above.

Soon, the path opens to a panoramic viewpoint, complete with an information board identifying the mountain peaks to the southwest – from Dent de Nendaz to Aiguille de Bérard in French Chamonix. With its 4,122 meters, Aiguille Verte, the green needle of the Mont Blanc massif, dominates the center of the image.

A bench at the viewpoint of Bisse du Torrrent Neuf, opening panoramic views of the Morge and Rhone Valleys, and Alps peaks in the background; photo by Ivan Kralj.
The Torrent Neuf trail is dotted with viewpoints: sit on a bench and take it all in!

Not on the map, but right across the Morge Valley, the peaks of the Vaud Alps are visible with the naked eye. Mont Gond (2,710 m) and La Fava (2,612 m) conceal the Tsanfleuron Plateau, whose glacier meltwater feeds the Morge River.

As you continue hiking Bisse de Savièse, your northern gaze will follow the sights of Le Sublage (2,735 m) and Le Sérac (2,817 m).

Couvert du Marmouet

After crossing Le Revers du Darbelly and Couloir des Glaçons, you’ll come upon Couvert du Marmouet, a pair of wooden shelters, offering protection from the elements.

Covered shelters of Couvert du Marmouet, protecting from a rockfall at Bisse du Torrent Neuf hike in Saviese, Switzerland; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Couvert du Marmouet shelters – the next best thing to a helmet

While they certainly secure no rock falls on your head, water still seeps through, its flow rinsing the rock even under these cover structures.

At the second shelter, you’ll see a plaque honoring Norbert Héritier, a 24-year-old bisse maintenance worker who tragically died in an accident here, in February 1932. Another reminder that navigating the Torrent Neuf path in winter should always be out of the question.

Third suspension bridge

The third suspended bridge on the Bisse du Torrent Neuf hike in Saviese, Switzerland, the longest of four, stretching 97 meters through alpine landscape; photo by Ivan Kralj.
If you like suspense when hiking, suspended bridges got you!

At the historic bisse section marked as Laona, the third suspension bridge (or Passerelle du Torrent-Neuf 3) stretches 97 meters, the longest of the four.

This one might be the quiet star of the trail. While the first bridge delivers the drama and the second the immersion, the third offers a blend of serenity and cinematic views.

As wind whispers into your ear, don’t zone out entirely. Glance right, and you’ll see something… odd.

Human-sized, weather-worn dolls, dressed in medieval garb, cling to the cliff. Planted at the site of the original bisse, stuck between the rock escarpments, these figures balance on wooden beams, like workers who once risked their lives, and eerily stare at the void.

Human-sized dolls standing on the edge of the cliff at a reconstruction of the Bisse du Torrent Neuf traditional irrigational canal hanging directly on the mountain wall, in Saviese, Switzerland; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Don’t call 144 for these guys; they are stuck here on purpose

Bear’s Flume

Behind the corner, Le Mont de Laona throws a yellow warning sign with a silhouette of a bear, shouting “Danger!”.

Taxidermied baby bear standing behind the protective glass in a cave-like recess at Bisse du Torrent Neuf in Saviese, Switzerland; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Guard up! No barrier will protect you from the attack of a vicious bear cub!

As suggested earlier, brown bears went extinct in Switzerland at the beginning of the 20th century. So, the glass and the bars, protecting a cave-like hideout of a stuffed baby bear, are here more for the bear’s safety than for ours.

Chéneau de l’Ours (Tsena dé l’O, or Bear’s Flume) is a taxidermy tableau that aimed to raise the appeal of the Torrent Neuf trail when it reopened in 2009. The original large adult bear turned out to be too appealing for some visitors. Even the protective grille couldn’t save him.

On the night of August 20, 2011, unknown vandals, or “poachers”, stole the bear. Despite a criminal complaint, the animal was never recovered.

Faced with Swiss taxidermy prices north of CHF 20,000, the Torrent-Neuf Association turned to Canada, where they sourced two replacement bears for just $500.

So if there were two substitutes, why is now only a forlorn-looking bear cub staring at you, with the saddest glass eyes in the history of taxidermy? It seems mama bear went missing again.

Chapelle Notre-Dame du Torrent-Neuf

After a smaller footbridge and a few more rockfall shelters, the cliff-hugging path brings you to the chapel of Notre-Dame du Torrent Neuf.

The interior of the Notre Dame du Torrent Neuf Chapel, carved directly into a rock of the Prabé Mountain in Saviese, Switzerland; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Torrent Neuf’s Notre-Dame – a chapel wedged between the rocks

Carved directly into a rock, this small mountain chapel, adorned with stained glass, statues of the Virgin Mary, and a small bell, was built in 2011.

Light a candle, pull the wire, ring the bell, and maybe Our Lady of Torrent Neuf can provide her blessings as you continue to the final part of the dramatic bisse paysage.

Tunnel du Mougerin

Continue along the Couloir de la Chèvre (Goat Corridor), with another rustic shelter, and your next exciting bisse section will be Couloir du Mougerin.

Tunnel du Mougerin, a man-made tunnel through Prabé Mountain, high enough for a person to pass through over the metal grid, following the Bisse du Torrent Neuf stream; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Tunnel du Mougerin, today

This passage running along dramatic rock faces brings you to Tunnel du Mougerin, a short man-made tunnel that enables a direct walk through the mountain.

Originally, water was following a construction on the outer side of the rounded cliff, but water forces at a sharp bend were often damaging the wooden beams (boutsets) or causing total collapse, requiring constant repairs.

A no-curve tunnel solved the issue in 1880. In its early days, one had to crawl through it, as the tunnel height was much lower than today.

A vintage photograph of a person inside the Tunnel du Mougerin, dug through the mountain on the Bisse du Torrent Neuf trail; one had to crawl over wooden planks to get through; copyright Bisse de Saviese.
Tunnel du Mougerin, a century ago (© Bisse de Savièse)

As you step out of the far end of the Tunnel du Mougerin, you’ll walk on one of the most exposed stretches of the entire Bisse du Torrent Neuf (Revers du Mougerin). Suspended high above the void, this final section feels like walking on the edge of a forgotten world, my personal favorite.

Check out this passage!

 

Fourth suspension bridge

After Couvert des Blancs, the final bridge crossing at the section called Travaux des Blancs is Passerelle du Torrent-Neuf 4.

At around 90 meters long, the fourth wobbly suspension bridge comes with protective side nets shielding you from wandering rocks.

Two streams of water cascade down the rocky cliffs under your footsteps: the first one is Fontana Dzéma waterfall, the other is La Fille, fed by the bisse in Revers de la Dzéma.

Passerelle du Torrent Neuf, or the fourth suspension bridge on the Bisse of Saviese hike; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Walking over the swaying bridge is better than joining nature’s rock’n’roll

The next, final part of the Bisse du Torrent Neuf hike will lead you through the Jeur du Frène forest, with some rather calming sections (Le Débonloir, Revers du Déboyard, Les Argillets, Couloir des Argillets, Crible des Argillets, Chéneau du Frêne).

Buvette de Brac

At the end of the Bisse du Torrent Neuf hike, the Couloir de Brac finishes with a refreshment chalet, Buvette de Brac, a place to take a break.

Buvette de Brac, a refreshment chalet at the end of the Bisse du Torrent Neuf hike in Saviese, Switzerland; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Buvette de Brac, surrounded by alpine scenery

Open from late June, this traditional mountain hut is famous for its tome d’alpage alpine cheese and Valais sausages.

If you want to extend your adventure, for 5 francs, you can book a guided tour of the Branlires Wall (Paroi des Branlires), a thrilling last section of the restored hiking trail, including a stop at a water-powered sawmill (scierie).

If you’re happy to return to the trail start/finish line (which means, traversing the entire itinerary in reverse), consider sitting down at the bisse near the parking, and dipping your feet into the icy mountain water. No fish spa required, the meltwater will handle the tingling.

Feeling bougie? Groups of 10 or more can end the Bisse du Torrent Neuf experience with a helicopter ride. Call Myriam (+41 79 436 74 01) at least three days in advance, and for CHF 70 per person (about 75 euros), you’ll enjoy the royal eagle’s eye view of the trail you just conquered.

Troisime passerelle or suspension bridge of Bisse du Torrent Neuf hiking trail, as seen from the helicopter.
Bye-bye, hiking trail!

Red helicopter landing at Binii, the drop-off point for hikers who prefer to return from the Bisse du Torrent Neuf trail by air.
If you decide to return from the Torrent Neuf hike by air, the helicopter will drop you off at Binii

Practical tips for visiting Bisse du Torrent Neuf

If you’re planning a hike along the Bisse du Torrent Neuf, a little prep work can make a pretty big difference. Here’s what to know before you go:

What to bring to the Bisse du Torrent Neuf hike

  • Sturdy hiking shoes with good grip (sections of the trail can be slippery when wet)
  • Water and snacks (buvettes are not cheap)
  • Sun protection (sunscreen, sunglasses, and a hat can protect you even on cloudy days)
  • Phone (for photos, flashlight use, or, hopefully never needed, calling Swiss rescue at 144)
  • Optional: light jacket (the weather can turn in a blink)
  • Don’t bring: wheelchairs, strollers, scooters, rollerblades, skateboards, bicycles, unicycles, or anything that has wheels.
A found pacifier placed on a branch in the forest at the Bisse du Torrent Neuf hike in Saviese, Switzerland; photo by Ivan Kralj.
It seems not all babies need pacifiers for the Bisse du Torrent Neuf hike

How to stay safe while hiking Bisse du Torrent Neuf

  • The trail is well-maintained and fenced, but parents should keep a close eye on kids, especially near the cliffside sections. The minimum recommended age is 6.
  • If you suffer from severe vertigo, Bisse du Torrent Neuf may not be your trail.
  • Avoid the hike during rain or strong winds.
  • Be vigilant on uphill slopes, as wildlife activity or heavy rainfall can trigger falling rocks.
  • To reduce the wobble factor on suspension bridges, wait for a quiet moment. Don’t cross when large groups are on – their footfall and the wind can amplify vibrations. When your turn comes, walk steadily and hold the handrails.
  • Dogs are allowed, but keep them leashed, especially on the bridges (judging by the dogs I’ve seen, they’re not fans of walking on the metal grates).

How to get to Bisse du Torrent Neuf easily

The Bisse du Torrent Neuf trailhead is located in Savièse, a scenic mountainside commune perched above Sion, the capital of Valais.

By car

From Sion, it’s a quick 15-minute drive uphill to the Prafirmin trailhead. Parking P1 in Binii (Rte de Binii-Rte des Etangs) and Parking P2 (Rte Forestière-Chem. Sainte-Marguerite) are marked on Google Maps.

Don’t have a car? Find the best rental deals in Sion via comparison platforms like DiscoverCars or Rentalcars.

By public transport

From Sion train station, hop on bus 341 or 342 to Savièse/St-Germain center (about 16 minutes). Then transfer to bus 343 heading toward Mayens-de-la-Zour. Get off at Prafirmin Torrent Neuf stop (about 13 minutes later). From here, walk 1.6 km down Chem. Sainte-Marguerite road – an easy 25-minute walk will bring you to the trailhead at P2 parking.

Things to do near Bisse du Torrent Neuf

Once you’ve crossed cliffs, tunnels, and wobbly bridges, don’t rush off just yet. The region around Savièse and Sion is full of things to see, sip, and savor.

Explore Sion

  • Climb to Valère and Tourbillon castles for panoramic views. You can even do it in a company of a local.
  • Wander Sion’s charming old town and sample local cuisine and wines.
  • Visit the Musée d’Histoire du Valais (Valais History Museum) to dive deeper into the region’s heritage.

Wine tasting in Valais

  • The area is famous for its terroir-driven wines. Don’t leave without trying Fendant, Petite Arvine, or the less-exported but highly drinkable Cornalin.
  • Stop by a local cave (wine cellar) in Savièse or nearby villages for tastings.

Alternatives to Bisse du Torrent Neuf

If you’ve caught the bisse bug, here are three more scenic water canals worth a hike:

  • Bisse de Clavau: Built around 1450, this bisse cuts through terraced vineyards between Sion and St-Léonard, where you can also visit Europe’s largest underground lake.
  • Bisse de Mont d’Orge: Constructed in 1885, it serves Mont d’Orge Lake and the famous Mont d’Or vineyard on the southern slopes of the hill. Don’t miss the 12th-century castle ruins at the hilltop, built by the Duke of Savoy.
  • Grand Bisse de Vex: Dating back to the early 15th century, this forest-shaded trail stretches 12 km from Planchouet (Nendaz) to Les Mayens-de-Sion, offering lush woodland, vineyard views, and postcard-worthy Alpine scenery.

Where to stay near Bisse du Torrent Neuf

The most convenient places to stay near the Bisse du Torrent Neuf are cozy chalets in Savièse, perfect for hikers seeking comfort after a cliffside adventure.

Le Chalet Pouchignon is the closest accommodation to the trail. This warm retreat with modern amenities offers three bedrooms, a fireplace, and a sun terrace with a Jacuzzi, ideal for soaking tired feet with a view. Check out rates for your dates on Booking or Agoda.

Chalet Mon Rêve is a little higher up the mountain, in Mayens-de-la-Zour, and it can also fit 6 guests in three rooms. Perks include an outdoor fireplace, barbecue facilities, and a pet-friendly policy. Check out rates for your dates on Booking or Agoda.

Chalet Le Raccard by Interhome is a smaller, but charming and romantic chalet for up to four people, with all the modern comforts, in a peaceful location, just next to the New Bisse Savièse restaurant. Check out rates for your dates on Booking or Agoda.

Wooden pathway zigzagging along the cliff of Prabé Mountain, following the Bisse du Torrent Neuf hike route, Saviese, Switzerland, with Alps in the background; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Zig-zag your way through the Bisse du Torrent Neuf hiking route

Bisse du Torrent Neuf hike – Conclusion

Before I lay down on the green grass of Brac for a well-earned rest at the final stop of my Bisse du Torrent Neuf hike, I spotted a familiar face at the buvette. There he was, that local Swiss guy I kept bumping into along the trail, sipping on a mountain tea, grinning widely. He had done it! The same man who was hesitating at the bridges had conquered them all.

I was glad to see that this picturesque trail in the Swiss Alps was more than just a physical trial. It’s a test of grit and personal boundaries, a chance to confront our fears and embrace the discomfort that often accompanies adventure.

Just like it carried life-sustaining water to medieval Savièse, Bisse du Torrent Neuf also quenches our modern thirst, as a hiking experience

I can’t help but think how stepping out of our comfort zones can lead to fulfilling discoveries. Sure, the abyss is scary. But what waits for us on the other side?

Fueled by curiosity, both my fellow hiker and I overcame far more than just anxiety-causing cliff views and not really lullabying suspension bridges.

Beyond its vertiginous stretches and dramatic rock passages, the Bisse du Torrent Neuf is a walk through history, a monument to human ingenuity, and a feast for the senses all at once.

Just like it carried life-sustaining water to medieval Savièse, this unique and exhilarating hiking experience quenches our modern thirst for connection, challenge, and awe. Every step we make over that dried bisse bed, following the half-vanished stream, makes us feel alive.

If you are after an adventurous detour from Sion, or a day immersed in alpine heritage, walking where water once flowed may just be a cultural-natural reset you didn’t know you needed.

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Discover the breathtaking Bisse du Torrent Neuf hike in Savièse, Switzerland – a cliffside trail with suspension bridges, alpine views, and a story of water, grit, and engineering wonder.

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Fathin Naufal & 329 Saturdays: Fading Out Like a Reverse Polaroid https://www.pipeaway.com/fathin-naufal-in-memoriam/ https://www.pipeaway.com/fathin-naufal-in-memoriam/#comments Mon, 11 Sep 2023 16:18:47 +0000 https://www.pipeaway.com/?p=10571 You meet many people when traveling. But a very few linger in your mind long after you're gone. Long after they're gone. This is Fathin Naufal as I remember him!

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Mountains are restorative in more than one way. For instance, I love how they can connect us with strangers. Each encounter on a mountain path becomes significant enough to be at least blessed with a ritual of a greeting.

Mountains of steel and concrete (read: human-made apartment blocks) almost train us to be on our own. The closer we live to one another, the bigger strangers we become.

When I lived in a skyscraper in Zagreb, my fellow residents wouldn’t greet back in an elevator. Even in my current abode, a four-floor building, tenants often prefer to live unbothered by courtesy. I know my first neighbor’s name is Milka because I optimistically introduced myself when moving in. Since then, I never heard a ‘hello’ back.

The magic of the mountain is in making us connect

But in the mountains, where population density drops, every passer-by becomes the friendliest person one could hope to meet.

This past Saturday, I went hiking Zagreb’s Medvednica mountain, loosely translated as the mountain of bears. I was pleasantly taken aback. Despite the arduous climbing on a warm day, hikers managed to summon smiles between puffs and pants. Such is the magic of the mountain – we relate to each other.

Much like other transformative experiences, the hike up the Croatian capital’s mountain begins with a tunnel. You step into the darkness of the tube, but soon a glimmer of light at the end of the tunnel assures you that more life awaits beyond. On one side, the towering human-made mountains, and on the other, the grand architecture of nature. Who wouldn’t want to pass through?

Tunnel Sljeme - the first stage of hiking to Medvednica mountain in Zagreb, Croatia; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Tunnel Sljeme, like many others, is an epitome of connections; it is the end of one, and the beginning of another world

The dance of the fern

Many Saturdays ago (exactly 329, I counted), I was hiking in the Southern Hemisphere, a world away from Zagreb. Separated by an entire alphabet of mountains and seas, there was the city of Bandung, the capital of West Java, Indonesia. Overlooking the town, the highest peak was called Bukit Moko.

On that particular Saturday, I wasn’t hiking alone through the enchanting pine forest. There was me, equipped with my Canon, and Fathin Naufal, armed with his Polaroid camera. I had met him just a day before, through Couchsurfing, another platform that quickly connects mountains of strangers.

Fathin Naufal and Ivan Kralj on a scooter, Indonesian and Croat connected by Couchsurfing; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Fathin Naufal broke up with his girlfriend a week before this photograph, and had a loss in his family a day before; nothing could stop him from being a welcoming Couchsurfing host

He had this dense hair and a thin mustache, wore glasses with a chain, and his wide smile, framed by braces, exuded boyish charm. Although he had circled the Sun just 23 times, he seemed mature, with well-defined visions and beliefs. On the other hand, Fathin was still playful like a child. It didn’t need much to pull me into playing fools for his Polaroid camera, as he liked to document life with instant photographs that adorned his tiny room.

Travel blogger Ivan Kralj kneeling on the forest floor in Bukit Moko, Indonesia, while trying to photograph a fern dancing in the wind; photo by Fathin Naufal.
Me kneeling in front of the fleeting beauty of a fern
Travel blogger Ivan Kralj kneeling on the forest floor in Bukit Moko, Indonesia, and laughing while trying to photograph a fern dancing in the wind; photo by Fathin Naufal.
Me appreciating Fathin’s laughing support

At the same time, there was me, serious and ambitious, with a travel blogging agenda, lugging around a heavy camera bag to the top of Bandung’s highest hill I would never even report about. Until now.

I noticed a delicate fern swaying in the wind, between sunlight and shade, just calling for a photograph. It was challenging to capture that tiny fragile thing with its dancy groove, evading my intention to freeze the moment of beauty for… Well, for forever.

Fathin couldn’t contain his laughter as he watched my futile attempts to trap nature in my memory card. Kneeling on the forest floor, in front of that vivid, attention-eluding fern, I had to laugh as well.

A young fern growing on the forest floor of Bukit Moko above Bandung, Indonesia; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Gotcha!
The canopies of the pine trees in Bukit Moko forest above Bandung, Indonesia; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Thanks to the big guys too!

A silent storm within me

While I was, 329 Saturdays later, following the winding trail toward Puntijarka, one of Zagreb’s mountain huts, my thoughts swirled around the fragility of life.

Unlike the dancing fern in the Bandung breeze, much sturdier Medvednica trees couldn’t withstand the ferocity of the July storm. It didn’t matter how rooted they were, or how strong they were; many just snapped in an instant. It was a powerful lesson about the unpredictable nature of existence; we cannot know when we will break.

Broken tree on Medvednica mountain after a heavy storm in July 2023; photo by Ivan Kralj.
One of the thousands of Zagreb’s broken trees after a July storm

Now, I may not have been the most prepared for this hike. While I was less broken than those toppled trees, there was still a storm of anger and confusion raging in my head, while I tried to put my best face forward when greeting fellow hikers, those nameless ambassadors of people who care. I was hiking up with that dancing Bandung fern etched in my mind, my tired eyes hidden behind sunglasses.

My smartwatch monitor usually scolds me for not getting enough sleep, urging me to improve my bedtime habits. Yet, this Saturday, after a restless night, the smartwatch had no objections. In fact, it commended my mere 4 hours and 58 minutes of sleep, calling it “not bad”.

“Napping boosts your energy and performance”, it said. That’s right, with such numerous awakenings that night, the smartwatch concluded my fractured dreams were a series of strategic power naps.

“Hello? You alive?”

The last Facebook profile picture of Fathin Naufal, showing him in a sleek all-black outfit, and in high heels.
The last profile pic of Fathin Naufal, just being himself

Fathin wasn’t posting much on social media recently. Ever since he had updated his profile picture in November 2022, featuring him confidently dressed in a sleek all-black outfit, complete with high heels and a stylish purse that resembled a vintage camera, he seemed to have retreated from the online spotlight.

Nonetheless, we chatted in January. He shared his enthusiasm for “cool and huge” interior design projects he was about to do – exciting ventures ranging from new bars to an entire treehouse village. By March, he was reporting back as being super busy with work, with massive projects going on. “Super exciting, yet super exhausting”, he told me.

Fathin also spoke about the “fucked-up weather” in Bali, where he had been building his career in recent years. “Mostly super hot and humid, then crazy rain out of nowhere”, he said. “Hahahaha, all about the balance, hey.”

I was reaching out to him in July and August, when crazy rains were long forgotten, but received no response. It was not typical for him to ghost me. I figured he must’ve changed his phone number again, something he had done a couple of times before.

Facebook’s Messenger still displayed him as “connected”, yet my messages refused to go through.

My last WhatsApp message said “Hello? You alive?”

The wall of silence

On Friday, I attempted once again to fathom Fathin’s reasons for ignoring me. And then, on his Facebook wall, my gaze fell upon someone’s post – a photograph capturing his recognizable silhouette, flashing the victorious V sign. The message said: “Fly high and dance forever.”

Screenshot from Fathin Naufal's Facebook wall showing his shadow while holding a V victory sign with farewell message by his friend Louise Ballantyne, saying: "Fly high and dance forever".
Despite Fathin’s nearly 3,000 Facebook friends, this post with only 6 likes didn’t have a chance to come to my feed earlier

The earlier post was even clearer for a sinking heart: “I will miss you so much, my darling. Rest in peace, Fathin. You’ve always space in my heart and will always complete my soul. Lots of love always.”

Fathin and I didn’t really have common friends. Our friendship was intensely one-on-one. Springboarded from just two in-person encounters, one in Java and the other in Bali, we felt strangely connected. I was looking forward to staying with him upon my return to the Island of Gods.

But Fathin has not been around since April 15, and it took me five months to find out. As I heard, he had just suddenly fallen ill, gasping for breath. His heart had stopped beating before he could reach hospital.

Saying goodbyes never comes easy, but this one was particularly brutal. He was just 29, always generous and listening, a wellspring of talent and ambition, brimming with realized and future potential. He had that youthful energy of a fern dancing in the wind, always smiling with his braces, showing off his radical haircuts, piercings, tattoos, and a personal style that boldly challenged the conventions of traditional Indonesian society.

I broke down in tears this Friday, learning that my dear friend was gone. It was a loss that defied comprehension.

Fathin Naufal's portrait; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Fathin Naufal (1993-2023)
It was on Facebook I learned about another tragic loss - the departure of Angela Laurier, the artist who understood the stress of performing "someone else".

From strangers to family

Back in Bandung, 329 Fridays earlier, I stepped off a train from Jakarta. He was there, waiting as promised. I was doubtful if a stranger, who had offered me a place to stay for free, would actually show up. I was new to the Couchsurfing platform. Fathin was my second host, I was his second couch surfer.

He loaded me and my bag on his scooter, and off we went to meet his family. It was a traditional Muslim household, and I was warmly welcomed by a chorus of women and children. Nobody spoke English except for Fathin. They extended offerings of food purchased outside, all the while apologizing for not being better hosts.

None of it made sense to me. Only later, I learned that, on the very day I arrived, the grandmother’s sister had passed away. Devastated by sorrow, these kind-hearted people wore the warmest of smiles, like some mountain hikers, prioritizing my comfort while their internal world was falling apart.

I completely understand where Fathin got his warm and positive spirit from. He was so obviously a black sheep of the family, and yet, instead of being a complete rebel, he had absorbed kindness and empathy.

Encounters with local families are what makes global traveling truly valuable. I met another modest, yet incredibly empowering family at Bete Giyorgis, one of the most impressive world churches.
Martabak close-up, thick pancakes with chocolate and peanuts, the desert specialty of Indonesia; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Martabak – an unforgettable experience

That same evening, Fathin took me to a local street market and introduced me to pandan rice balls and martabak, thick, buttery pancakes, with peanuts and chocolate. I was bought.

Our original plan had been to ascend the Tangkuban Perahu volcano the following morning. But discouraged by the steep price for foreigners, we decided to visit a more affordable local attraction instead – Bukit Moko. After all, unlike people, volcanoes would always be there.

The road to Bandung’s hills was quite steep. I had to dismount from the motorbike at certain sections, so Fathin could drive through. Taking those asses uphill required effort.

Bukit Moko hill above Bandung, Indonesia, with Puncak Bintang star installation; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Bukit Moko – the perfect place to witness foggy mornings and starry nights

The woodpecker’s tap-tap

Some sport bikes whizzed downhill, as I ascended the slopes of Zagreb’s mountain, with a lost friend in my mind. No friendly ‘hellos’ this time. Life’s too quick for that.

I’d stop only briefly, to take a sip of water, so my back could continue sweating, leaving a giant wet mark on my shirt.

“Super exciting, yet super exhausting”, rang in my ears. “Super hot and humid”, it all mixed up.

Mountains are restorative in more than one way. Even amid all those broken, seemingly strong trees, the rhythmic sound of a persistent woodpecker echoed through the forest. There was life beyond what you could see.

You pass the tunnel and disconnect from the civilization’s frantic rush.

Electricity sockets and street lamp installed in trees at Bukit Moko, forest hill above Bandung, Indonesia; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Electricity plugs and street lamps installed directly at Bukit Moko’s pine trees

Reflection in the stars

Bukit Moko forest was different. It was a hill where civilization and nature grew into each other. Streetlights emerged directly from the trees, and even charging stations were installed. After all, those selfies drain mobile phone batteries.

Fathin Naufal and Ivan Kralj posing in front of the Puncak Bintang mirror-star at Bukit Moko, above Bandung, Indonesia; photo by Ivan Kralj.
The closest we got to stardom

Among the most sought-after selfie spots were the colossal reflective stars of Puncak Bintang. Fathin and I, naturally, posed for some reflection.

In my travel journal, I would note that we paused for some juice refreshments before heading to the Babakan Siliwangi forest walk. The youngsters of Bandung were shooting urban fashion editorials there.

After savoring a cup of tea at a cozy coffee shop where Fathin’s friend worked, he took me for lunch to a place called The Volcano. Since I had missed out on visiting Tangkuban Perahu, Fathin thought we could at least eat some chicken at this eatery that promoted itself with “The Ultimate Experience” banner.

Fathin ordered an entire chicken, but it arrived at our table half-raw. We sent it back, and after an additional 15 minutes of baking, it returned equally undercooked. We requested a take-out, and later that evening my host would over-bake the hell out of that roast chicken.

Back to the chicken

Fathin’s Couchsurfing profile today says he was a vegetarian. I assume this dietary choice evolved after 2017. We shape our identities gradually.

I haven’t eaten much chicken in the last six years either. Yet, this Saturday, at Puntijarka mountain hut, in the absence of martabak, I ordered chicken for lunch. I wasn’t at the top of the volcano again. But this one was baked well.

Fathin Naufal – from ‘om’ to freedom

Those 329 Saturdays ago, I caught just a brief glimpse into the extraordinary life this unique artsy soul led in his hometown.

Fathin Naufal was the one who introduced me to NuArt Sculpture Park, where his friend smuggled us in, and I managed to snap a pic of the biggest Vishnu statue in the world while it was still a work in progress.

Fathin Naufal and his friend Nana standing next to a whale sculpture at NuArt Sculpture Park in Bandung, Indonesia; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Fathin and his friend Nana standing next to Nyoman Nuarta’s whale sculpture

My friend was well-connected, especially within art circles. His talents knew no bounds: he was a performer, a storyteller, a dancer, a singer, a guitar and a piano player.

When I first met him, he proudly displayed his henna tattoo, an ohm symbol on his wrist. “I can’t have real tattoos”, he texted me earlier. “I’m a Muslim, lol. My parents would be angry.”

That changed when he moved away. Bali liberated him, and Fathin expressed himself through a handpoke tattoo. His fashion style also blossomed. He never seemed afraid of being judged as different, or eccentric.

Late interior designer Fathin Naufal standing in front of the Villa Isola, serving as a headmastership office of Indonesia University of Education; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Fathin in front of Villa Isola, once a media tycoon’s house, nowadays the headmaster’s office of the University of Education

When it comes to imagining new interiors, he was designing everything from toy stores and apartments to teenage gyms and contemporary dance centers.

This clearly perspective young man could hold deep conversations but also liked to laugh. I loved making him laugh.

During a quick tour of Bandung, he even took me on a journey back in time, to his student years. Villa Isola, an art-deco building on the campus of the University of Education, has an aura of mystery, with tales of apparition sightings.

Fathin recalled a peculiar experience there himself. He told me that he was with his friends when they heard the distinct sound of horse bells. That night, all three of them were haunted by the same chilling nightmare – a horse-drawn carriage running over them.

Bearing with the pain

When that May Sunday in 2017 arrived, and it was time for me to depart, Fathin accompanied me to the bus station. He was standing there long, refusing to leave before the bus’s tires began to roll.

“It’s a bit teary but I can handle it lol”, he texted me, just meters away, separated by the bus’s glass windows.

Fathin Naufal standing at the bus station in Bandung, Indonesia; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Fathin at the bus station; the bag says “My designer bag is at home”

“Don’t forget about us”, he added. “My mom has bought chicken and everything to cook something for you. She feels guilty because she hasn’t even cooked anything for you.”

In that moment of familial grief, that generous woman had room for the feelings of guilt, toward a perfect stranger.

Fathin Naufal and Ivan Kralj looking at their reflection in one of the arms of the Puncak Bintang stars at Bukit Moko, above Bandung, Indonesia; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Like children in a mirror maze: Mirror mirror on the wall, who’s the brightest of them all?

Perhaps I’m not naming things right. True, I had only met Fathin twice. Those 48 hours in Bandung in 2017, and then one evening in Bali in 2019. But our long-distance connection that kept on going was quite strong. I couldn’t just call him an acquaintance. There were too many tears in my eyes when I learned what happened. That vibrant 29-year-old, overflowing with love, was gone? It made no sense.

Our moment in time was like a casual passing-by on some mountain trail. But our “Hello” was far from an empty ritual

Before I left his hometown, Fathin gifted me a necklace adorned with a ceramic polar bear, bearing the word “chill” on its side. It was a profound reminder message, and I wonder if I should have worn it more often, as I undoubtedly will now.

Without anything of equal significance to offer in return, I presented him with a simple bracelet I had received in Kuala Lumpur on Vesak Day. He accepted it with gratitude and called it a lucky bracelet. Now I know bracelets aren’t miraculous.

It’s remarkable how brief encounters with strangers can connect us so deeply. Our moment in time may not have appeared different from a casual passing-by on some mountain trail. But our mutual greeting, though insignificant in the grand scheme of history, was far from an empty ritual.

It was an honor to be able to say “Hello” to you, my dear friend. Your presence has left an indelible imprint on my Polaroid heart.

Have you ever met anyone as briefly as I met Fathin Naufal? Did that person leave a mark on you? Reach out to them today!
And pin this in memoriam piece for later!

In memoriam for Fathin Naufal, a couchsurfing friend that passed away at the age of 29; written by Ivan Kralj.

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Best Hikes in Norway: Why Cliff Hiking in Lysefjord Rocks? https://www.pipeaway.com/best-hikes-norway-lysefjord/ https://www.pipeaway.com/best-hikes-norway-lysefjord/#respond Fri, 01 Mar 2019 04:42:48 +0000 https://www.pipeaway.com/?p=3587 Travelers to Norway should not miss its amazing fjords. These masterpieces of nature contain some of the best hiking opportunities. Check out the best hikes in Lysefjord!

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If I had to put my finger on the map, I’d say that Lysefjord provides some of the best hikes in Norway.

Traveling to Norway and not seeing its amazing fjords would be a top-level sin in the “Visit Norway” Bible. There are almost 1.200 fjords in this Scandinavian country, so you practically need to be blind or very determined to miss these natural wonders.

Where there are fjords, there are also steep cliffs created by the glacier. Cliffs mean mountains, and mountains mean hiking! It’s simple: if you want to experience true Norwegian nature, you need to put your hiking boots on! Hiking in Norway rocks.

In this article, I’ll take you to the best places to hike in Norway – three locales in the charming yet seductive cliff-hiking paradise, the Lysefjord!

If you want to do some daring cliffside hiking in Switzerland, consider bisses of Valais, for instance - Bisse du Torrent Neuf in Savièse.

Lysefjord – home to the best hikes in Norway

Lysefjord is a 42-kilometer-long fjord in Rogaland County, in southwestern Norway.

Its name might mean a light fjord, but it still offers plenty of hiking options of varying difficulty. Lysefjord is home to some extraordinary rock formations. Some are more famous than others, but each of them provides memorable hiking trips, spectacular views, and a feeling of achievement.

Preikestolen, Kjeragbolten, and Kalleliklumpen should make it to your Norway trekking bucket list!

For the best hikes in Norway, head to Lysefjord, the home of extraordinary rock formations

With the advent of social media, which promoted some of the Norwegian rocks into Instagrammable must-do photo shoot sites, hiking in Norway became trendier than ever. Some of the Norwegian hiking trails became a magnet for an abundance of loud and disrespectful tourists who might affect the experience of your hiking holidays.

If you are mainly aiming for some Facebook likes, follow this list from top to bottom as it, more or less, rates the hiking sites from the most accessible ones to the least popular ones.

If you still believe that the best hiking vacations are the ones where you can indeed meet nature, without the intrusion of uncontrollable laughter, screaming, and portable music players, head to the bottom of this “best hikes in Norway” list – you might have the rock just for yourself!

You can do some great hikes in Norway at Aurlandsfjord too - check it out!

Best places for a Lysefjord hike

1. Preikestolen hike

Preikestolen, also known as Pulpit Rock, is one of the most famous hikes in Norway. The flat mountain plateau protruding 30 meters from the mountainside attracts close to 300 thousand visitors every year! This makes it one of the top tourist attractions in Norway.

Preikestolen or Pulpit Rock, square-shaped mountain plateau and the famous hiking destination at Lysefjord, Norway, photographed from above, with people observing the surrounding from its edge, and clouds forming above the fjord, photo by Ivan Kralj
Preiketolen, mission possible

It’s a hike of medium difficulty, which makes it suitable for even a family visit.

But this doesn’t mean Preikestolen doesn’t have any hiking risk. It is the major site of mountain aid interventions as, with such a high number of hikers, someone does need to get injured.

Besides several suicides that happened on this spot, serious accidents or death cases are not registered.

Out of the three hikes in this selection, this one has the best trail signposting. If you follow the trek, you can hardly get lost!

But what you will undoubtedly get is some breathtaking scenery to enjoy. Pine forests, waterfalls, and lakes add another dimension to the beauty of the climb. It is hard not to fall in love with Norwegian nature.

As a filming site for “Mission Impossible” and various stunts that raise the daredevil bar, this masterpiece of Mother Nature’s work has been doomed to become as popular as it is, one of the best hikes in Norway.

Read the complete guide to Preikestolen if you want to prepare for the hike adequately. This blog post includes suggestions on how to get there, where to stay, and where to eat.

2. Kjerag hike

Hiking to Kjeragbolten, or Kjerag boulder, a rock wedged in the mountain crevice, is definitely number two of all possible hikes you can do in the Lysefjord area.

Girl photographing her friend standing on Kjeragbolten, a famous boulder on Kjerag Mountain, Norway, photo by Ivan Kralj
On Mount Kjerag, you can take your hiking to a new level of excitement

The abyss below is staggering – almost one kilometer to sea level.

But this is Mount Kjerag’s lucky rock – nobody has fallen yet! And the truth is, it looks much more daring from the front. The access around the small ledge in the back is challenging, but one can assist oneself with a rope.

Some courage is still demanded. It’s not rare that hikers chicken out at the last moment.

The hike to the iconic Kjeragbolten demands some 3 hours each way. Steeper sections of the climb require the use of guide chains, but I’ve seen people of all generations doing the hike. As long as you are reasonably fit, you shouldn’t worry much about making it.

This area has no trees, so don’t expect any shade from the sun, except if you strategically hide behind some freestanding grand boulder on the way.

However, there are two green valleys on the hiking trail, which provide a great picnic spot. They are also the favorite grazing ground for the sheep, so your Kjerag postcard will have all the essential elements.

With the beauty of the trail and the excitement of the final rock selfie, the Kjerag hike qualifies as one of the best day hikes in Norway. Well, some start climbing it just before twilight, but that is definitely not recommended.

Read the complete guide to Kjeragbolten if you want to prepare for Kjerag hike adequately. This blog post includes suggestions on how to get there, where to stay, and where to eat.

3. Kalleliklumpen hike

At the moment of writing, hashtag #kalleliklumpen has been used on Instagram precisely 19 times (four of which were mine).

In comparison to #preikestolen (161.000) and #kjerag (36.500), Kalleliklumpen rock is at the start of its instafame. Hidden behind the path covered with spider webs, this is a fantastic secret spot of Lysefjord.

Kalleliklumpen boulder rock hovering over the abyss at Lysefjord in Norway, photo by Ivan Kralj.
Wanna step above the clouds?

For the benefit of the site, I hope its popularity will not skyrocket soon.

Luckily, the start of the hike is not as easily accessible as the first two – no roads lead to Flørli.

Staying at Flørli 4444 is the prerequisite to hike to Kalleliklumpen, and ferries will take you there between April and September. Now is the perfect time to book your bed in this limited-space facility!

Flørli Cliff Hike leading to Kalleliklumpen is a 2-hour round trek.

Well, unless you divert to additional astonishing rock sites, such as Kalleligjelet and Kallelifjellet. Beware, these paths are not beaten, so they pass some exposed sections and walk you over the cloudlike soft floor sodden with water.

Count on your sense of orientation if you want to return to the village safely! I relaxed too much, so I confess I did have some short periods of panic when trying to identify the right path to go back.

The views are magnificent along the path, but the final stepping on Kalleliklumpen rock is not for the faint of heart. You do it at your own risk, and they suggest that one person at a time stands on this table-sized boulder.

The drop from it is stomach-churning, and scientists do not monitor the rock as in Preikestolen’s case. Kalleliklumpen looks like a mini Trolltunga that might fall at any moment. It doesn’t mean it will, but it doesn’t mean it won’t. I certainly nominate it as one of the best hikes in Norway.

Additional hike in the Flørli area: Flørlitrappene is famous for being the world’s longest wooden staircase – there are 4444 of them!

Read the complete guide to Flørli, if you want to prepare for the hikes in this area adequately. This blog post includes suggestions on how to get there, where to stay, and where to eat.
Pipeaway blogger Ivan Kralj standing in front of the waterfall in Lysebotn at the end of Lysefjord, the place of the best hikes in Norway, photo by Ivan Kralj
The windproof and waterproof jacket is always a good choice for hiking in Norway

Packing list for hiking in Lysefjord

  1. solid hiking boots (not flip-flops, and I say that because I saw someone wearing them!) – when mountains are wet, parts of the route can get quite slippery
  2. warm clothes in more layers (you might want to take something off, add something on, or even change it entirely on the top when the sudden stop makes your sweat cold) – wool is good for undergarments, and windproof and waterproof materials for the outerwear
  3. food and drinks for the day
  4. basic first aid equipment (sticking plaster)
  5. headlamp
  6. sunglasses and sunscreen
  7. fully charged mobile phone, with an extra battery if you take a lot of pictures and check the Internet on the go
  8. bag for collecting your garbage
Pipeaway blogger Ivan Kralj standing in front of the cairn structure on Mount Kjerag, Lysefjord, one of the best hikes in Norway, photo by Ivan Kralj
Cairns are the sign that someone once went through this path. Beware, sometimes they are not a landmark, but just decorations!

A final word of advice for hiking in Norway

  1. Be in good physical form!
  2. Do not start hiking too late in the day!
  3. Do not rush yourself! Take it slowly, the least you need is to twist an ankle on these somewhat tricky, but doable day hikes.
  4. Respect nature as well as others on the way! Nature is best consumed in silence, and with open eyes, not through the loud exchange of screams.
  5. Do not overestimate yourself! After a long hike, take a breath, eat a snack, drink some water, and only then approach the edge of the rock! The view will not run away, while your sense of balance may get easily challenged if tired.

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Kalleliklumpen is one of the less famous rocks in Lysefjord, Norwegian region abundant with great hiking opportunities! Visit Preikestolen, Kjerag and Florli to discover some of the best hikes in Norway!

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Kjeragbolten Rock: Death Defying Challenge at Norway’s Stone of Love https://www.pipeaway.com/kjeragbolten-kjerag-boulder/ https://www.pipeaway.com/kjeragbolten-kjerag-boulder/#comments Fri, 05 Oct 2018 10:55:12 +0000 https://www.pipeaway.com/?p=2968 It might demand some nerves and a giant leap of faith while you try to hold yourself together and refrain from looking at the gaping mouth of the abyss!

The post Kjeragbolten Rock: Death Defying Challenge at Norway’s Stone of Love appeared first on Pipeaway.

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Kjeragbolten rock. The Stone of Love. A round block wedged solidly in the crevice of the Kjerag Mountain, almost one kilometer above sea level. The rock between two cliffs is rapidly becoming one of Norway’s most popular hiking destinations for testing one’s bravery.

It may demand some nerves and a giant leap of faith while you try to hold yourself together and refrain from looking down, at the gaping mouth of the abyss. One slippage and your Kjeragbolten accident could only be fatal.

The egg-shaped rock you are about to step on will become your crowning platform while, maybe like Saint-Exupéry’s Little Prince, you discover a whole new world of courage and survival. Your planet is Kjeragbolten boulder, and you are smiling for the camera, maybe even laughing in death’s face.

Kjeragbolten, the Stone Bridge of Norway for some, and the Stone of Love for others, is possibly the most famous rock in the country, competing for the title with the likes of Preikestolen and Trolltunga (Norwegian alternative to the Potato Chip Rock).

Are you up for the Kjerag trek challenge? Do you have what it takes to step on the hanging Kjerag rock? Are you willing to testify your devotion while standing on Norway’s Stone of Love?

Kjeragbolten Rock between two cliffs in Norway – the chicken or the egg dilemma

If mountains were laying eggs, this would probably be the most unusual nest of all. The rock wedged between two cliffs is on the southern side of Lysefjord, Norway. It balances above a daunting drop.

Sheep standing on Kjeragbolten, a famous boulder on Kjerag Mountain, Norway, photo by 7Ty9 - Flickr
When Flickr user 7Ty9 published this photograph, many debated that it was photoshopped. As if Saint-Exupéry was the only one allowed to draw a sheep

‘So, how was Kjeragbolten formed?’, you ask a perfectly valid question. Kjerag boulder is an unusual result of a usual geological process. The five-cubic-meter rock was deposited during the last glacial period, estimated at 50,000 BC. In the continuous alternating game of melting of the Norwegian Glacier and flooding of the valleys, this rock got jammed in the rock formation that many millenniums later promoted it into a prime tourist attraction.

Suspended above the kilometer-deep chasm, Kjeragbolten rock is a seductive spot for taking daredevil pictures. It is a stone bridge of Norway that tests the courage of its visitors.

In an adapted version of the old dilemma about the chicken and the egg, people are queuing in long lines to step on Kjerag. After waiting, which could last anywhere between a few minutes and an hour, just before their moment to step on the stone egg arrives, some of the hikers simply – chicken out.

If you prefer more conventional challenges, in Lysefjord you can also climb the longest stairway in the world, in Flørli!

Why is Kjeragbolten nicknamed Norway’s Stone of Love?

Marta Sibielak and Keow Wee Loong in their ceremony clothes posing for the wedding photo on Kjeragbolten boulder in Norway; private album.
Marta Sibielak and Keow Wee Loong decided to take their wedding photo on one of the world’s most special rocks. The wedding gown is not the most appropriate clothing for the stunt, so if you’d like to snag a kiss, I’d advise wearing something more practical!

In recent years, new urban legends formed around the most famous Kjerag boulder. One of these says that a couple that manages to stand together on Kjeragbolten can count on eternal love.

This is the reason why the rock became known as the Stone of Love of Norway, where many daring duos try to share a kiss, a hug, or at least constricted space, in the hope of getting the blessing by the Cupid of cliffs.

Of course, there is something rather obvious about this legend. Couples that do not manage to conquer the challenge of the romantic rock cannot count on a lifetime of love and happiness, simply because, well… They are not around to tell us that, are they?

 

Lonely boulders in the shaggy mountain

Kjerag got its name probably by combining the words kje (kid) and rag (goat’s hair). It might be that the shaggy-looking surface of the rough mountainside reminded Norwegians of goat babies’ hair.

Stream and meadows at Little Stordalen on the way to Kjeragbolten, a famous boulder on Kjerag Mountain, Norway, photo by Ivan Kralj
Little Stordalen is one of the two valleys offering incredible views in between more strenuous steep hikes to Kjeragbolten rock

I haven’t seen any goats, but quite a few sheep were using the gorgeous valleys as the grazing ground. They were bravely jumping from one rock to another, not caring at all about the fact that humans marked this hiking route – as advanced. Sheep’s bells were added to the idyllic atmosphere, heightened by the wooden pathways and streams cutting through the green carpet-looking meadows. The scene did look like a painting, but trust me: Saint-Exupéry did not draw the sheep, they were real!

Kjerag looked like a perfect free camping setting. There were indeed some hikers setting up their tents along the way. Spending a day and a night in this fascinating mountain must be a special experience.

However, there were no trees on the path, so one shouldn’t expect to find shade on the Mount Kjerag hike. Some more massive boulders offered the only shadow one could find on the way.

These did not end up wedging in some dramatic setting, but that doesn’t mean they didn’t present great photo ops! I stopped by many of them. These boulders were almost praying for a snapshot, while the majority of the hikers would just be rushing to the Kjerag star. It is not easy to compete with the reputation of the famous ones.

For more Norwegian natural beauty, consider visiting Aurlandsfjord!

Don’t get lost at the Kjerag trek!

Steeper parts of Kjerag trek are equipped with guide chains, photo by Ivan Kralj
For steeper parts of the Kjerag trek, use the guide chains for assistance!

The hiking path to Kjerag starts at the Øygardstølen parking lot. There are three steep ascends in total (the first one being the hardest part), but more challenging sections come with guide chains that provide significant assistance. Do use them! They will help you not to fall on Kjerag! Also, consider wearing gloves when grabbing the chains, as this might reduce the pain in your fingers afterward.

In between these ascends, the Kjerag hiking path goes over two green broad valleys: Little Stordalen and Stordalen. It ends with a walk over the polished granite of the Kjerag Massive to Nesatind, the place with the most spectacular views.

One of the cairns (stone pile) on Kjerag Mountain trek, Norway, photo by Ivan Kralj
Some of the cairns on Kjerag Mountain are little masterpieces

While the largest part of the route is clearly marked with cairns (stone pile markers) and red T’s painted on them, many people lose orientation in the final part of the Kjeragbolten hike. Possibly distracted by the views, maybe confused by too many decorative cairns, perhaps by just following other lost hikers in front of them… They stop following the ‘T’, and end up going too much to the right (the side looking at the fjord).

Be careful, look at (hopefully) where people are returning from – this is the correct (and ONLY) entrance to the notch-approach to Kjerag boulder. So: instead of heading to the cliffs directly, you need to go a bit further up on the left side, before descending through the shallow streambed.

I stayed near the Kjerag stone for four hours, and every several minutes there would be hikers coming from the wrong and utterly inaccessible direction.

With me waving to them and hand-sign-instructing on how to reach the boulder, some thought I was even a mountain guide!

The signs could definitely be improved at the end of the path. That’s the mountain guide in me speaking.

If you prefer not to explore the Kjerag mountain on your own, you can avoid getting lost by joining this 5-star guided hike!

Kjeragbolten Rock is not a place for solitude

While I was directing the lost hikers from a distance, someone might have thought that I engaged in the most altruistic behaviors of all. The truth is it was quite the opposite. With a constant flow of incoming hikers, I knew that the longer they hiked, the longer it would take them to leave the place. So in a fantasized scenario of mine, if I’d help them reach the boulder sooner, they would also leave sooner. And I would have it all for myself.

Back side view of the Kjeragbolten - people queuing up to take photos on the famous Kjerag boulder in Norway, photo by Ivan Kralj
This is how Kjeragbolten rock looks from behind: most of the people waiting for their turn to pose on the floating rock of Norway will not show how crowded the place gets

Frankly, I hate queuing and making the selfie fool of myself in front of everyone. Over the years, I witnessed selfie madness all over the world, in Indonesia, Cambodia, Thailand, Greece… And being a part of that is not a pleasant experience.

I also dislike hiking in the crowds, especially if they consist of loud-music-playing Chinese and overtly enthusiastic Ukrainians flagging Kjeragbolten up with their real national flag as if they were conquering the Moon.

But my efforts were futile. With all my “helpful” guiding through the mountain, the flow of visitors wouldn’t slow down. In four hours of my guard, there was no moment of rest for the poor Kjerag boulder.

“Don’t be sad!”, a fox whispered in my ear. It suddenly appeared out of nowhere and, by looking at my weeping prince-face, it told me a secret: “It is the time you have wasted for your rose that makes your rose so important.“

Then Saint-Exupéry whispered my line: “Well, I must endure the presence of a few caterpillars if I wish to become acquainted with the butterflies.“

I’ve published a short video of my Kjeragbolten visit on Pipeaway’s Youtube channel, check it out:

Kjeragbolten deaths, falls, and accidents: Is Kjerag rock dangerous?

Hundreds of people enter the queue in front of this extraordinary spherical rock. Some step on it, others crawl out on it, depending on how severe their fear of heights is.

Old photograph of people posing on Kjeragbolten, a famous boulder on Kjerag Mountain, Norway, photo by Ivan Kralj
People have been climbing to Kjeragbolten for ages. The boulder supposedly has a lucky charm, and Kjeragbolten death and fall accident statistic is still at zero

The access to Kjerag boulder is around the small ledge, and this part probably demands more courage than standing on the rock itself.

Has anyone fallen from Kjeragbolten? No, there is no record of any fall-down Kjeragbolten accident.

Kjerag and danger are still words worth considering together – approach THE boulder of Norway with caution! Do not rush yourself, take a moment to breathe in after the strenuous hike, drink, and eat something.

To access the Kjerag boulder, you can use the rope for assistance. I’ve seen a girl not even paying attention to the string attached to the rock, and almost entangling her foot just before stepping on the Kjerag stone.

A rock pile ceases to be a rock pile the moment a single man contemplates it, bearing within him the image of a cathedral.Antoine de Saint-Exupery, 'The Little Prince'

I’ve also seen another one jumping for the photo and having quite an ungraceful landing on the rock. If you don’t have the ballerina sense of balance, do not engage in boulder jumping! Just because you’ve seen other people doing something risky, it doesn’t mean you are capable of repeating it. Know your limits, and act accordingly.

If you have an underlying sense of balance, stepping on the Kjerag boulder is relatively safe. Kjeragbolten deaths or serious accidents are not known in the statistics. Some claim that the hanging rock of Norway has a lucky charm.

However, a cliff nearby is one of the world’s most active and spectacular BASE-jumping sites. Since the first registered Kjeragbolten BASE jump in 1994, more than 50.000 jumps happened here. Sadly, it is still a dangerous sport; twelve people jumped from Kjerag to – death.

If you are looking for other extreme ways to explore Kjerag, you could try walking on the slackline, rope jumping, or balancing on chairs while in the handstand on the Kjerag boulder itself. Always explore your limits wisely, so that the Kjeragbolten death statistic remains empty.

Do you want to do more amazing hikes at Lysefjord? Check Preikestolen, the Pulpit Rock in Norway, one of the country's most famous cliffs!

When to climb Kjerag, Norway?

A season for Kjerag lasts from June to September. In the winter months, Kjerag road is not open due to snow.

Choose weekdays to avoid long waits at the boulder site.

Check the sunset time, so you don’t start your hike too late in the day.

If you like wet weather, Bergen, the rainiest city in Europe could be your thing!

How to get to Kjeragbolten?

During June, July, and August, getting to Kjerag is quite simple; there is a daily direct Tide bus connection from Stavanger (the nearest airport) to Kjerag (Øygardstølen parking lot). The return ticket costs 66 Euros. Beware that you will have exactly 6 hours and 15 minutes to do the Kjeragbolten hike if you don’t want the bus to leave without you. That is why for the less stressful hiking experience, I recommend staying in the closest town of Lysebotn for one night at least. Two nights, if you take into account the unpredictable weather in the area.

A girl using someone's assisting hand to step on Kjeragbolten, a famous boulder on Kjerag Mountain, Norway, photo by Ivan Kralj
Don’t be afraid to ask someone’s assistance when stepping on Kjeragbolten rock, Norway’s stone of love

From Stavanger, Lysebotn is also reachable by ferry, and the ticket price is 140 Norwegian Krones (15 Euros). Boats might not operate every day; check the timetable on the Kolumbus website.

As I was traveling on the weekend, a bus to Kjerag was the only option to reach the area. But as I posted a message on the Kjerag Tourist Information Facebook page, I managed to join the car ride with Timo and Viral, two other hikers heading the same way. Carpooling is not only the cheapest way to get to Kjerag, but also an ecological choice. Share the costs, and reduce congestion as well as air pollution!

To reach Kjeragbolten from Øygardstølen, just follow the crowds and the T-marked trail. If you come by car, the parking fee is 200 NOK (21 Euro).

If you head from Øygardstølen to Lysebotn, there is an exciting road with hairpin turns, one of them in the middle of the narrow tunnel. So slow down when inside; you might get surprised by an unexpected 180-degree turn!

The owner of the Hauane Bed & Breakfast, the guesthouse where I stayed, gladly picked me up both ways, while on another occasion I hitchhiked for this 15-minute ride with some Spanish hiking couple and Norwegian blokes who used the winding road for the adrenaline ride on skateboards.

As always, mind the sheep on the way! They are not Saint-Exupéry’s drawing.

Besides hiking to Kjeragbolten, there are many more things to do in the area. Check out other attractions in the vicinity!

Staying near Kjeragbolten Rock – Hauane Bed & Breakfast

As mentioned, Lysebotn in the Lysefjord’s valley is the closest town to Kjerag Mountain. That is if you consider a place with a dozen permanent residents – a town. There is no real shop here and, only at some places, one can buy simple snacks.

Still, if you are looking for accommodation near Kjeragbolten, Lysebotn is the place to anchor yourself! This means you could start climbing Kjerag before the crowds from Stavanger arrive (which gives you some 2,5 hour advantage time).

Hauane Bed & Breakfast in Lysebotn, the best guesthouse to stay near Kjeragbolten in Norway, photo by Ivan Kralj
Hauane Bed & Breakfast is located in Lysebotn, the little village in Lysefjord valley

While Lysebotn does provide hostel and campground options, the most comfortable place to stay close to Kjerag is Hauane Bed & Breakfast. It is an old farm transformed into a mini-hotel of just five charming rooms.

Decorated with antique cabinets, smoking pipes, oil paintings, old wooden clocks, and faded photographs, it speaks tradition in every little detail. That includes the tradition of hunting, so do not get too surprised when you see a bearskin rug on the dining room floor.

Where to eat in Lysebotn?

At Hauane B&B you will be able to fill yourself with energy for the hike, as traditional Norwegian breakfast here comes in the form of a hearty buffet. Local cheese, pickled fish, homemade crackers, and pancakes are just some of the items on the table.

Mashed potato, green beans and pork cheek as dinner at Hauane Bed & Breakfast in Lysebotn, Norway, photo by Ivan Kralj
These pork cheeks have been cooking in beer for hours. And then they became a delicious dinner at Hauane B&B

If you want to eat dinner as well, you will need to order it a day in advance. For 250 NOK (26 Euros), you will get a three-course menu, and mine was quite delicious (mackerel salad as a starter, pork cheeks cooked for hours in beer for the main course, and homemade pie with plums from the garden for dessert).

For an alternative, you could also head to Olavs Pub, the favorite meeting place of the BASE jumpers; eat your 185-NOK-worth cheeseburger (19 Euros) under a giant parachute stretched over the pub ceiling.

If you are starving after hiking Kjerag, the restaurant at Øygardstølen parking lot might be your quickest solution. But I haven’t eaten there, so cannot share any impression.

How to deal with muscle pain?

Hauane Bed & Breakfast has another surprise for its guests. After a long hike, resting in the private sauna will be a balm for your tired body!

You can also choose to relax in the well-kept garden, with a mountain backdrop for your afternoon tea.

Single room in Hauane Bed & Breakfast costs 72 Euros per night.

Kjeragbolten facts

  • Kjeragbolten height: 984 meters
  • Hike elevation: 460 meters
  • Kjeragbolten hike distance (one way): 6 kilometers
  • Kjerag hike time (one way): 3 hours
  • Difficulty: demanding
  • Number of Kjerag deaths: 12 (BASE jumpers)
  • Kjerag weather: Before you decide to visit Kjeragbolten, check Yr.no, the highly reliable Norwegian weather forecasting site. Another useful resource is the Kjerag Tourist Information Facebook page – every morning around 7 am Kjerag Mountain forecast is published.
  • Fun fact: I have no idea where this mystical place is exactly, but supposedly just before reaching the top of the Kjerag Mountain, hikers can experience an unusual sensation: a sound similar to a gunshot and smoke coming out of the mountain. The first record of the phenomenon dates to 1855.

Would you step on this rock stuck between two cliffs like some stone bridge?
Please comment below!
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Kjeragbolten is a famous rock wedged in the crevice of Kjerag Mountain, and one of the most famous hiking destinations in Lysefjord, Norway Kjeragbolten is a rock wedged in the crevice of Kjerag Mountain. It is often called Norway's Stone of Love, as the urban legend says that a couple that manages to stand together on Kjeragbolten can count on eternal love. Marta Sibielak and Keow Wee Loong decided to take their wedding photo on the famous Kjerag boulder.

 

This post was originally published on October 5th, 2018, and was updated on November 14th, 2023.
Disclosure: My stay at Hauane Bed & Breakfast was complimentary, but all opinions are my own.

Also, this post contains affiliate links, which means if you click on them and make a purchase, Pipeaway might make a small commission, at no additional cost to you. Thank you for supporting our work!

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