Pipeaway https://www.pipeaway.com/ mapping the extraordinary Tue, 21 Oct 2025 11:52:38 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.8.3 Kythira, Island of Love: Holiday Retreat at the Mythical Birthplace of Aphrodite https://www.pipeaway.com/kythira-island-of-love-aphrodite/ https://www.pipeaway.com/kythira-island-of-love-aphrodite/#respond Tue, 21 Oct 2025 01:53:51 +0000 https://www.pipeaway.com/?p=14892 On the island where Aphrodite rose from the sea, time slows, light softens, and love lingers. Explore Kythira’s beaches, waterfalls, shipwrecks, and hidden villages - a Greek island that still feels like a secret.

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Between the Peloponnese and Crete lies Kythira, one of Greece‘s lesser-known islands. Still, when summer tourists from the big cities, chasing the promise of an authentic Greek escape, pour into the depopulated Kythira, the heart of the island starts to beat faster. Legends come alive, and the idea that making love here can be a path to passion discovery turns solid. After all, Kythira is said to be the birthplace of Aphrodite, goddess of love, whose myth rolls within the foamy waves splashing against the island’s shores.

From Homer and Herodotus to Jean-Antoine Watteau and Charles Baudelaire, both Kythira and her celestial goddess acted as muses

Even Kythira’s name holds a secret. It comes from the Greek word keutho (κεύθω), meaning “to hide”, referring to the love concealed in one’s stomach, much like butterflies. Also spelled Kithira, Kythera, or Cythera, the island’s name invokes Kythereia, Cytherea, or Cytheria, all versions of literary epithets for Aphrodite, the ancient goddess of pleasure and procreation.

From Homer (who in in “The Iliad”, Book 14, called Aphrodite the Lady of Cythera) and Herodotus (who in Book 1 noted that Phoenicians built her first temple here) to Jean-Antoine Watteau (French Rococo painter who used a soft color palette to depict lovers in “The Embarkation for Cythera” and “Pilgrimage to Cythera”) and Charles Baudelaire (who in “Voyage to Cythera” recast the island of erotic pleasure as one of suffering and death), both Kythira and her celestial goddess acted as muses.

Even in the digital afterlife, an arid Greek island off the coast of Laconia, the Spartan homeland, appears as Kythera in the ‘Assassin’s Creed Odyssey’ video game. Its main settlement is dedicated to Aphrodite, the island has a lair of Cyclopes and Krokottas Hyenas, and one quest lets you flirt and smooch with the cultist Diona.

In today’s overview of Kythira Island, learn what to see, what to do, and where to stay when visiting this special Greek island of hidden love, where beauty meets desire!

Aerial view of Kapsali Bay, twin bay on the island of Kythira, Greece; drone photo by Ivan Kralj.

Kythira Travel Guide

Where is the island of Kythira situated in Greece?

Kythira lies just off the southeastern coast of the Peloponnesian Peninsula, where the Aegean, Ionian, and Cretan seas meet, at the entrance of the Laconian Gulf.

Geographically lonely, Kythira is officially counted among the seven main Ionian islands (alongside Corfu, Zakynthos, Kefalonia, and others), thanks to deep historical and cultural ties.

Far from the rest of the Ionian chain, Kythira Island’s location between mainland Greece and Crete has made it a crossroads of cultures for centuries. Aegean traders, Venetian nobles, and British administrators all left their marks here. Even today, it feels like a bridge between worlds.

Seaside cliffs near Diakofti, on Kythira Island, Greece; photo by Ivan Kralj.

How big is Kythira Island?

Kythira Island’s size is roughly 280 square kilometers (108 square miles). Some 29 kilometers long and 18 kilometers wide, this is a medium-sized Greek island. It is large enough to spend days exploring 90 kilometers of its coastline, forgotten villages, and castles, yet small enough to still feel intimate and unspoiled.

Based on the most recent census data (2021), Kythira Island’s population consists of 3.644 permanent residents living here year-round, scattered across a patchwork of small villages and coastal settlements. In summer, the numbers swell, with visitors and returning Kytherians from abroad, but the island never tips into chaos. It keeps its quiet, unhurried charm, even in the sunniest months.

Especially thanks to the 20th-century emigration, the Kytherian diaspora is strong in Germany, the United States, and Australia, where organizations such as the Kytherian Brotherhood in Sydney, founded in 1922 (today known as the Kytherian Association of Australia), became a vital thread of connection among Greek expats.

Kythira Mythology

Kythira’s story begins in the sea. Ancient poets believed this was the island where Aphrodite, goddess of love and beauty, first rose from the foam of the waves. Some say it happened on the sands of Paleopolis, others swear it was in the sheltered bay of Avlemonas. Wherever the truth lies, the myth gave Kythira an aura of sacredness.

A view of Kapsali Bay with a boat, through a window of a beachfront house; photo by Ivan Kralj.Hesiod, a poet active in the 7th century BC, was the first to record the tale of Aphrodite’s appearance. In “Theogony”, a poem tracing the origins of the gods, Hesiod wrote how Kronos seized and castrated his father Uranus. The Sky God’s severed genitals fell into the sea near Kythira, and from the churning foam (aphros, in Greek) emerged Aphrodite herself. The currents then carried her to Paphos, Cyprus, where her cult would later flourish.

However, the very first temple dedicated to Heavenly Aphrodite (Sanctuary of Aphrodite Ourania) was said to have been built on Kythira, near Palicastro, in the 6th century BC. Inside stood a wooden statue of the goddess, armed and resolute. Pilgrims came from across the seas, bearing gifts and prayers for passion, fertility, and safe journeys.

Over time, Kythira became a symbol of love itself, a liminal place where sea and land, myth and reality, touched.

From that meeting point grew something extraordinary – an endemic flower that “never dies”. On the island’s wind-battered cliffs thrives the Sempreviva (Helichrysum italicum), a Kythira flower that remains bright yellow for years after being picked, without requiring water. This amaranth flower is mentioned even in the myth of Paris and Helen. When they stopped on Kythira (naturally, to make love), Helen, who was jealous of Aphrodite’s beauty, sought reassurance, so Paris compared her to the vivid flower, saying that her beauty would also live forever.

Kythira Island’s history

Beyond myth, Kythira’s strategic position at the crossroads of three seas made it a prize island coveted, conquered, and continually reshaped by many civilizations.

Ancient Times

Archaeological finds reveal traces of Minoan traders, Mycenaean settlers, and later Greek city-states like Sparta and Athens. Temples dedicated to Aphrodite drew worshippers from far and wide.

Byzantine Era

As Christianity spread, the island of Kythira transformed into a religious stronghold, dotted with chapels and monasteries, some of which still stand.

Venetian Rule (1207–1797)

Perhaps the most influential period, shaping Kythira’s fortresses, churches, and even cuisine. The Venetian castle of Chora, perched dramatically above the sea, still dominates the skyline.

Ottoman and British Periods

The island changed hands between the French and the Ottomans before falling under British administration in the early 19th century, leaving behind bridges, schools, and a peculiar fondness for orderly stonework.

Modern Greece

In 1864, Kythira was formally united with the modern Greek state, along with the other Ionian Islands.

Swimwear drying on the rope at Kapsali Lighthouse, with Greek flag fluttering in the wind, on Kythira Island, Greece; photo by Ivan Kralj.
The Brits left behind this lighthouse in Kapsali in 1853

Today, the traces of this layered past are everywhere: Venetian fortresses rising from cliffs, Byzantine chapels painted with fading frescoes, abandoned watermills in green valleys, and quiet villages where Italian and Greek influences coexist.

Kythira Island – things to do

From remnants of ancient Greece to contemporary attractions, Kythira is a place that rewards curious travelers. Suitable for both sightseeing day trips as well as for longer, slow-paced holidays, plentiful mini destinations and activities are worth pinning on the map of Kythira Island.

Here are some of the best things to do in Kythira Island, Greece!

1. Rent a car at Kythira

If you’re asking yourself, “Do I really need a car in Kythira?” – the answer is short and definitive: YES.

Public transport on Kythira doesn’t exist. To explore this large and scattered island effectively, renting a vehicle is a must. For anyone planning to reach all those secluded beaches, remote scenic viewpoints, and charming villages off the beaten path, car hire is a crucial first step to do upon arrival at Kythira.

That’s exactly what I did. My ferry from Piraeus to Kythira docked at Diakofti Port, where a friendly staff member from Drakakis Rent a Car was already waiting. After a quick and efficient paperwork exchange, the keys to the Seat Ibiza were in my hand, and my Kythira adventure could begin.

Seat Ibiza parked in Aroniadika, Kythira, Greece, a part of the Drakakis Rent-a-Car fleet; photo by Ivan Kralj.
My Seat Ibiza parked in Aroniadika

If you’re looking for a reliable car rental in Kythira, I can honestly recommend Drakakis. They have the largest range of car categories, competitive prices, as well as one of the newest and best-maintained fleets on the island.

My medium-sized car was perfect for navigating the island’s narrow, occasionally dramatic roads. But if your needs differ, you can go for something economical like a Citroën C1, or something bolder, like an SUV, 4WD, or even a 9-seat minivan for group trips.

Unless you plan to spend your entire stay in one village, renting a car or at least a scooter is absolutely essential on Kythira (well, as long as you haven’t brought your own vehicle, of course). Kythira Island has no buses, exploring it on foot would test even the greatest walkers, so trust me when I say that a voyage to Kythira is not the same without the luxury of a car.

Conveniently, Drakakis delivers its cars to the exit of Kythira Airport (Alexander Aristotelous Onassis Airport), too, so even flyers to the island can start driving just meters away from baggage claim.

If you plan to explore the rest of Greece, it is good to know that this is the only Kythira car rental company that allows you to return the car on the mainland.

Check out Drakakis’ car rental options here.

2. Visit Kythira Island beaches

Kythira’s coastline is as diverse as its myths: rocky coves with turquoise waters, long sandy arcs framed by cliffs, and quiet bays where time forgets to move. Each beach has its own personality, and if you listen closely, some still whisper Aphrodite’s name.

Now that your car keys are in hand, it’s time to chase the shoreline. Here are some of my favorite Kythira Island beaches!

Textile beaches of Kythira
Avlemonas Beach

Avlemonas isn’t a beach in the classic sense – it’s more of a natural swimming stage built right into the village. The sea forms small turquoise coves at the feet of whitewashed houses, with stone steps and ladders leading straight into the water. It feels like swimming inside a giant saltwater pool.

Local stories link Avlemonas to the myth of Aphrodite’s birth, with some saying the goddess first stepped ashore here, fresh from the foam. When the sun sets, and the sea glows in shades of gold and pink, it’s easy to believe the divine history of the beach.

Aerial view of Avlemonas Beach in Kythira Island, Greece; drone photo by Ivan Kralj.

Baths of Aphrodite in the Avlemonas Bay on Kythira Island, Greece; photo by Ivan Kralj.

Swimmers resting in the caves of the Avlemonas beach in Kythira Island, Greece; photo by Ivan Kralj.

Castello, the Castle of Avlemonas, on the coast of Kythira Island, Greece; aerial drone photo by Ivan Kralj.

Since 1565, the back-then main port of Kythira was protected from pirate raids by a Castello. The Castle of Avlemonas is a small octagonal Venetian fortress you can still explore today – just enter through a “back door”, a hole in the wall next to a rusted cannon.

With local tavernas and cafés just steps away, it’s easy to spend a whole afternoon swimming, eating, and soaking in the atmosphere of this postcard-perfect village. Photographs truly don’t do justice to Avlemonas’ beauty.

💡 Tip: Avlemonas is ideal for families, thanks to its shallow, calm waters and safe swimming spots. If you want more peace and space to spread out, head to Paleopolis Beach nearby (one of Kythira’s longest), where, also according to the myth, Aphrodite first set foot on land.

Kaladi Beach

On Kythira’s eastern coast, perhaps the island’s most photographed stretch, Kaladi is a trio of coves linked by dramatic rocks. Two larger pebble beaches sit beneath steep cliffs, separated by a massive split rock (natural rock arch), while the path to a third, smaller beach leads through a small cave.

The turquoise water here is so clear it feels like liquid glass. Paired with colorful marine life, it provides excellent conditions for snorkeling.

Kaladi Beach, first cove, on Kythira Island, Greece; photo by Ivan Kralj.

Kaladi Beach, second cove and rock arch in the background, on Kythira Island, Greece; photo by Ivan Kralj.

People standing in the shallows of the cave-like entrance into the sea at Kaladi Beach, Kythira Island, Greece; photo by Ivan Kralj.

Staircase of 162 stairs leading to Kaladi Beach, Kythira Island, Greece; photo by Ivan Kralj.

Access to this raw and rugged setting requires a bit of effort. You’ll park at the clifftop and walk down 162 stone steps. The isolation is part of Kaladi’s charm, keeping it from ever being crowded. It mainly attracts young travelers and adventurous swimmers.

💡 Tip: Bring solid shoes (even water shoes), drinking water, snacks, and shade – there are no facilities here. Visit early or late for soft light and solitude.

Diakofti Beach

If Kaladi is wild and dramatic, Diakofti is its sun-soaked opposite – a slice of the Caribbean dropped into Europe. It’s a broad stretch of fine white sand lapped by shallow, turquoise waters so clear they almost look unreal. Indeed, you don’t get to see this kind of beach near an island’s main port every day!

Aerial view of Diakofti, port settlement on Kythira Island, Greece; drone photo by Ivan Kralj.

Aerial view of sandy beaches with parasols and turquoise water wrapping the road bridge in Diakofti, Kythira Island, Greece; photo by Ivan Kralj.

Manolis Tavern at the beachfront of Diakofti, Kythira Island, Greece; photo by Ivan Kralj.

Female swimmers in hats resting in the turquoise waters of Diakofti Beach, Kythira Island, Greece; photo by Ivan Kralj.

Families love it because the sea stays shallow for a long distance, making it safe for children and perfect for long, lazy swims.

Unlike Kythira’s more remote beaches, taverns and cafés line Diakofti Beach, serving cold beer and fresh calamari right where your towel ends. No need to pack supplies!

💡 Tip: Diakofti is particularly stunning on windless days, when the sea turns glassy and the intense colors look almost photoshopped.

Kapsali Bay

Just below Chora, the island’s capital, Kapsali Bay is where Kythira comes out to play. It is the island’s social heart – two lively crescent-shaped bays perfect for swimming, water sports, or simply lounging with a coffee in hand.

The views are spectacular. You can swim with the Venetian castle of Chora watching from above, or with a glimpse of Crete on the horizon, on a clear day.

Kapsali twin bay on Kythira Island, Greece; photo by Ivan Kralj.

Aerial view of parasols on Kapsali Bay beach in Kythira, Greece; drone photo by Ivan Kralj.

Kayaks resting on Kapsali Beach in Kythira, with Kythira Castle in the background during sunset; photo by Nikos Samartzis.

The first of the twin bays is more developed, lined with beach bars, cafés, and tavernas, where you can go straight from a swim to a plate of grilled octopus or a sunset cocktail. The second bay keeps a quieter tone. Both are great for swimming, thanks to their calm waters.

💡 Tip: If you’re staying in Chora, you can easily walk down to Kapsali in 15–20 minutes (though the uphill return is a bit of a climb). It’s the most convenient spot on the island if you want both swimming and nightlife without getting behind the wheel.

Agia Pelagia Beach

On the northern coast of Kythira, Agia Pelagia Beach is one of the island’s most organized and accessible stretches of shoreline.

The village of Agia Pelagia sits right along the waterfront, giving it a lively, holiday feel with laid-back tavernas, cafés, and small hotels just steps from the sea.

Colorful changing cabins, parasols, and sunbeds on Agia Pelagia Beach in Kythira, Greece; photo by Ivan Kralj.

A lone man resting on the sandy beach in Agia Pelagia, on Kythira Island, Greece; photo by Ivan Kralj.

The beach itself is a mix of pebbles and sand, keeping the water crystal clear, ideal for those who prefer comfort over adventure.

Families love it for its convenience, while couples enjoy evening strolls along the promenade.

💡 Tip: Stay until evening – the bay glows beautifully as the sun dips behind the horizon. If you crave quiet and wilderness in northern Kythira, check out Platia Ammos Beach, just a short drive away in a northern direction. For an even more relaxed and easygoing atmosphere, drive southward, toward Lorenzo Beach, a true off-grid gem.

Nude beaches of Kythira

As Sandro Botticelli suggests with his iconic Renaissance painting “The Birth of Venus”, Aphrodite appeared on the land naked, only partially covered by her long hair. It feels appropriate that Kythira, the mythic birthplace of the goddess, has beaches where you can follow her lead – naturally.

While one can sometimes dodge the clothes even in Kaladi, Lorenzo, or remote stretches of Paleopolis, the safest FKK havens are these!

Sparagario

Tucked away just behind Kapsali Bay, Sparagario Beach is one of Kythira’s unofficial naturist-friendly spots. Its seclusion and lack of facilities make it attractive to those looking for freedom and privacy.

Surrounded by rugged cliffs and accessible only on foot or by kayak, the small cove feels far removed from Kythira Island’s busier beaches. The path from Kapsali is not the easiest one, but the effort of hiking pays off with a beach that feels wild and secluded.

Sparagario Beach on Kythira Island, Greece; photo by Ivan Kralj.

Sparagario, naturist beach near Kapsali, on Kythira Island, Greece; photo by Ivan Kralj.

Sparagario’s setting is dramatic, but the vibe is relaxed and respectful. The beach is especially loved by those staying in Kapsali. After a morning coffee by the lively bay, you can paddle or walk over and escape into solitude within minutes.

💡 Tip: Bring water, shade, and sturdy shoes if hiking. The path is rocky, but the swim at the end feels heavenly.

Limni Beach

Quite large and spacious, Limni Beach on the eastern coast of Kythira provides plentiful shelter for naturists and those who prefer untouched beaches.

Its sand-and-pebble mix provides a perfect nesting ground for local turtles, so mind the marked egg-laying zones.

Limni Beach, a clothing-optional beach on Kythira Island, Greece; photo by Ivan Kralj.

Limni is easily accessible by car. When coming from the direction of Avlemonas, turn left just after Hotel Skandeia, onto a dirt road that follows a dry riverbed. Park at the end, and step into a peaceful, clothing-optional world.

💡 Tip: Bring everything you’ll need for the day – there are no tavernas or much shade, just raw nature and the sound of the sea.

Fyri Ammos Beach (Southeast)

On Kythira’s southeastern shore lies Fyri Ammos (not to be confused with Firi Ammos near Agia Pelagia). This wild beach is a long sweep of reddish sand and pebbles, bordered by steep cliffs and open sea.

Due to its size and location, it rarely feels crowded, even in summer, and visitors can always find a quiet stretch to themselves.

The sea here is crystal-clear and deep, making it ideal for strong swimmers.

💡 Tip: Stay until late afternoon. When the sun sets the reddish sand aglow, it gives the whole beach a warm, otherworldly blush.

If you want to get naked in Santorini, Mykonos, Syros, Amorgos, Naxos, and the rest of the Cyclades, check out these nudist beaches in Greece!

3. Look for the Heart-Shaped Green Lake

On Kythira’s wild west coast, not far from Limnionas Beach, hides one of the island’s most magical secrets: the Green Lake or Prasíni Límni. This natural seawater lagoon, carved right into the cliffs above the Aegean, can only be reached by a rocky trail.

Nothing is accidental in the mythic birthplace of Aphrodite. From above, this emerald pond takes on the shape of a heart (don’t get overexcited, as you’ll need a drone, or a very tall friend, to truly see it).

The rock pool itself is fed by the sea, yet sheltered from its waves, creating a calm, glassy surface perfect for a cooling dip after the trek (unless stagnant water gives you trust issues).

Blue arrow marking the right path through bushy landscape towards the Green Lake or Prasini Limni on Kythira Island, Greece; photo by Ivan Kralj.

Blue arrow sprayed on coastal rocks on Kythira Island, Greece, to mark the direction toward the Green Lake, a heart-shaped lake on Aphrodite's island; photo by Ivan Kralj.

Shadow of the travel blogger Ivan Kralj on green surface of the Prasini Limni lake/lagoon shaped like a heart on Kythira Island, Greece; photo by Ivan Kralj.

Aerial view of Prasini Limni, a heart-shaped Green Lake on Aphrodite's Kythira Island in Greece; drone photo by Ivan Kralj.

Hiking from the tiny fishing village of Limnionas (where you can park your car) to the Green Lake (sometimes also called Blue Lagoon, or Loutra AfroditisBaths of Aphrodite) takes about 45 minutes. Assuming you don’t get lost (a bold assumption).

There are some markings on the trail, such as cairns and blue arrows sprayed on the rocks, but you’ll still have to rely on instinct when navigating this geography dominated by short prickly bushes.

Once you pass a larger, also heart-shaped, cove (is Kythira just showing off?), keep descending over the rocks. You’ll need all four limbs for the last stretch, scrambling past cave-like openings in the cliffs before the hidden lagoon finally appears: a gleaming green heart tucked into the stone.

💡 Tip: Wear sturdy shoes for the hike, and bring plenty of water. For the most romantic scene, time your visit for late afternoon, when the sun slants low and the heart-shaped lagoon glows golden-green.

There are plenty of islands of hearts all around the world, but you can find the most heart-shaped islands in the Adriatic Sea. Check them out!

4. Hike the Kakia Lagada Gorge

Another Kythira coastal attraction is a body of water just meters away from the sea. Limni (the lake) is a pond formed by the mouth of Kakia Lagada or Paleochora Gorge, and marks the spot where the infamous pirate Hayreddin Barbarossa began his brutal invasion.

You’ll have to be in a great physical condition when deciding on a challenging Kakia Lagada hike. The trail can start either from Trifillianika village or directly from the ruins of the medieval castle city of Paleochora, and then follows the bed of the gorge, nested between the large vertical walls, requiring the use of rope (abseiling) at a few sections.

At the northern coast of Kythira, just east of Agia Pelagia, the trail finishes at the Kakia Lagada Beach, a stretch of pebbles and rocks separating fresh water from the salt.

Kagia Lagada Beach, the meeting point of the gorge and the sea on Kythira Island, Greece; photo by Ivan Kralj.

Roughly translated as Ravine of the Wicked Woman, Kakia Lagada Gorge is Kythira Island’s most dramatic canyon, recommended only to advanced mountaineers in excellent physical condition and accompanied by a local guide.

💡 Tip: Wear proper hiking gear, bring water, and check the weather – the gorge can be dangerous after rain.

5. Explore the Ghostly Kythira ruins of Kato Chora

Between Limnionas and Mylopotamos lies Kato Chora (Lower Town), Kythira’s abandoned village built by Venetians in the 15th century. Hidden among olive groves and quiet valleys, these Kythira ruins are remnants of a defensive outpost against pirate raids, a ghost town deserted in the 1950s.

Behind the weathered winged Lion of St. Mark, the emblem of the once-mighty Republic of Venice, the fortified outpost of Kato Hora Mylopotamou once thrived with two-story stone houses, narrow lanes, tiny chapels, and a small fortress clinging stubbornly to the hillside, in poetic but haunting silence.

Winged Lion of St. Mark, the emblem of the Republic of Venice, displayed above the stone-arch entrance to Kato Chora, in Kythira Island, Greece; photo by Ivan Kralj.

An old stone church at Kato Chora, the abandoned village on Kythira Island, Greece; photo by Ivan Kralj.

The intricate stone wall inside the house at Kato Chora, the abandoned village on Kythira Island, Greece; photo by Ivan Kralj.

The abandoned village of Kato Chora on the top of the cliffs, Kythira Island, Greece; photo by Ivan Kralj.

Wandering through the crumbling arches and weathered walls of the medieval Castle of Mylopotamos, fragile traces of a defense system gone by, you might realize how, unlike the timelessness of Aphrodite, human ambition is not permanent. Empires rise and fall.

💡 Tip: Visit in the late afternoon when the light softens over the olive trees. Bring a camera, but more importantly, time – Kato Chora rewards slow exploration and quiet reflection.

6. Hike the Valley of the Watermills to Kythira’s waterfalls in Mylopotamos

If there’s a single walk that captures the soul of inland Kythira, it’s the hike through the Valley of the Watermills near Mylopotamos (trail M41). This lush ravine feels worlds away from the island’s sunburnt hills and rocky coasts: shaded by plane trees, laced with streams, and echoing with birdsong.

After a fulfilling lunch in the natural shade of Platanos Restaurant in the heart of the village (I enjoyed a hearty portion of pasticcio, and was sent off with an ice-cream as a farewell gift), continue on the footpath winding gently downhill along the stream, passing by the watermills that gave Mylopotamos its name (translatable as the river of mills).

Pasticcio, a traditional Greek dish, as served at Platanos Restaurant in Mylopotamos, on the island of Kythira, Greece; photo by Ivan Kralj.

The rock-stairs M41 hiking trail through the Valley of the Watermills on Kythira Island, Greece; photo by Ivan Kralj.

The bridge in the lush green Valley of the Watermills on Kythira Island, Greece; photo by Ivan Kralj.

 

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The route passes the remains of over a dozen Venetian-era watermills, once the beating heart of local life. Moss-covered stone walls and ivy-wrapped mill houses whisper of a time when flowing water powered Kythira Island’s bread and trade.

At the heart of the valley lies Fonissa or Neraida Waterfall, tumbling into a natural pool, at least in spring and early summer. By late summer or autumn (July-October), Kythira’s waterfall may dry up, especially during drought years. Even if the waterfall wasn’t active during my September visit, this path through the cool, shaded glen was one of the most enchanting Kythira walking trails.

7. Wander Through Kapsali Bay’s Trail of Wonders

The M12 circular trail will take you through some of the greatest wonders written in stone of the twin Kapsali Bay. To follow the entire route of 4.2 kilometers, set aside at least two hours.

Start on the hills that separate the double bay, one dominated by the solitary Kapsali Lighthouse (built by the British in 1853), the other marked by the Church of Agios Georgios (the whitewashed chapel honoring the dragon-slaying patron saint of courage and defense).

Aerial view of Kapsali Lighthouse peninsula on Kythira Island, Greece; drone photo by Ivan Kralj.

Stairs heading from Church of Agios Georgios toward Kapsali Bay, with the Monastery of Saint John on the Cliff in the background, a part of M12 hiking trail on Kythira Island, Greece; photo by Ivan Kralj.

The trail dips down to Kapsali Beach and winds northwards through a pine forest. Follow the stone steps leading to Agios Ioannis En Krimno (Saint John on the Cliff), a church built into the rock face, around the cave claimed to be a place where Saint John the Theologian, fleeing Roman persecution, began writing the Apocalypse.

Agios Ioannis En Krimno, the church and monastery of Saint John on the Cliff, build above Kapsali, on Kythira Island, Greece; photo by Ivan Kralj.

The church is technically open July-September (Mon–Fri 8 am – 2:30 pm, Sun 5:30 pm – 8:30 pm). While I did arrive in those advertised hours, I still only managed to kiss the locked door. Your best chance to see the church from the inside is on June 24 (the Nativity of St. John the Baptist) or August 29 (his beheading day).

After passing the pine forest, Agios Nikolaos Chapel, olive groves, and fields, you reach the cliffs of Sgouritsi cove.

The rocky peninsula east of Kapsali hides a few of its own surprises. In the landscape known as Apokleistra (literally the place of seclusion), you’ll first come across – a cross. Some unknown hand, long ago, perhaps, laid stones into a giant plus sign visible from above, a reminder of human presence. No local map or official guide explains its origin – whether a navigational mark, private memorial, artistic gesture, pirate’s treasure trove, or ancient symbol remains unknown.

Aerial photo of a cross constructed of rocks on Apokleistra peninsula near Kapsali, on Kythira Island, Greece; drone photo by Ivan Kralj.

Aerial view of an abandoned windmill on Apokleistra peninsula during sunset, near Kapsali, on Kythira Island, Greece; drone photo by Ivan Kralj.

Some 500 meters further south, the ruins of an abandoned windmill still crown the headland, a hollowed-out circle on the bare ground. Seen from above, the circular form of the windmill and the cross made of stone may be just abandoned monuments to the past, a Tic-Tac-Toe combination of forgotten markers. But one could also, coincidentally, see a broken symbol of Venus (♀), the planet of love and beauty, and the celestial sign of Aphrodite herself, the goddess who famously rose from Kythira’s sea foam.

Aerial view of Lazareto quarantine station built by the Brits in 1815 in Kapsali, on Kythira Island, Greece; drone photo by Ivan Kralj.

End your M12 exploration at Lazareto, the British-built quarantine station at Piso Gialo Bay, once used for seamen visiting the island of Kythira.

💡 Tip: Start early or late in the day to avoid the heat. Bring a hat, water, and curiosity.

8. Fall in Love With the Cats of Chora Kythira

Another walk worth your sweat in Kythira is the M1 trail from Kapsali to Chora and back.

Start from Kapsali Bay, following the narrow coastal path marked by blue-and-white markers toward Sparagario Beach. From there, the trail climbs steeply uphill, merging with a cliffside macadam road. At the Bridge of Kapsali, another relic of British engineering (1825), join the road that twists its way toward Kythira Town.

You can cut the hairpin turns by following meses, the shortcuts maintained by constant local footwork. The resting pavilions along the route offer a welcome excuse to pause.

A view of Chora Kythira, Kythira Castle, and Kapsali Bay in the background, on Kythira Island, Greece; photo by Ivan Kralj.

Mesa Vourgo, a neighborhood of 14 Byzantine churches in Chora Kythira, Greece; photo by Ivan Kralj. A Byzantine church in Mesa Vourgo neighborhood in Chora Kythira, surrounded by flowers, on Kythira Island, Greece; photo by Ivan Kralj. Blue door in a whitewashed tunnel of the house in Chora Kythira; photo by Ivan Kralj. A friendly dog licking himself, requesting pets, on the hike from Kapsali Bay to Chora Kythira; photo by Ivan Kralj.

 

Before reaching the Secondary School, enter Mesa Vourgo, a historic neighborhood where 14 Byzantine churches nestle among old mansions and courtyards. In one of these, a friendly dog will insist on a head rub before allowing you to pass.

Pet lovers will also love exploring the alleys of Chora, where local cats take over the story. Sleek, collared, and perfectly at home, these feline citizens, as is the case in many Greek islands, rule the town. They stretch across marble doorsteps, nap on café chairs, and watch humans hurry about their business with an air of amused superiority.

A collared black cat sitting on a doorstep in Chora Kythira old town; photo by Ivan Kralj.

Two orange cats in a courtyard of Chora Kythira in Greece; photo by Ivan Kralj. Black-and-white cat standing among plants in a stair-like street of Chora Kythira, Greece; photo by Ivan Kralj.

Two curious black-and-white cats looking onto a street from behind the window, in Chora Kythira, Greece; photo by Ivan Kralj.

Orange cat sleeping on the bench of a local cafe in Chora Kythira, Greece; photo by Ivan Kralj.

Black cat peeking behind the wall, among the planted pots, in Chora Kythira, Greece.

At the entrance to the settlement, you’ll find Kythira Archeological Museum, home to the famous archaic marble lion of Kythera, as well as Renaissance-era statues of Aphrodite and Eros – a reminder that love has always been the island’s best export.

A great place for a break is a café called Fossa. I visited it many times and tried every single cake, hoping to recommend the favorite, but I gloriously failed. Loved them all! If you have a sweet tooth, you’ll make a pilgrimage to Chora your daily Kythira routine just because of Fossa.

Cakes and coffee served at Fossa Cafe in Chora Kythira, Greece; photo by Ivan Kralj.

End your Chora visit at Kythira Castle, the Venetian fortress on Byzantine foundations, dominating the skyline and commanding sweeping views over the Aegean Sea (on a clear day – reaching all the way to Crete). Since it guarded vital sea routes, the strategically-located Kastro, the seat of the Venetian Governor of Kythira, has been known as the “Eye of Crete”.

The view from Kastro, Kythira Castle, over the Aegean Sea, Greece; photo by Ivan Kralj

On your way back down to Kapsali, descend via the footpath along the western side of the Castle’s massive stone walls, rejoining the trail toward Sparagario at the cave church of Agios Pavlos.

9. Admire the British Stone Bridge of Love

Besides the Bridge of Kapsali, there is a handful of elegant stone bridges on Kythira dating back to the period of British rule in the 19th century.

Potamos Bridge, in the village of the same name, was constructed in 1823. Stretching 60 meters in length and 7 meters in height, it’s resting on seven arches.

Katouni Bridge near the town of Livadi was completed in 1826, officially, to link the island’s capital of Chora with the port of Avlemonas.

Katouni Bridge, the longest stone bridge in Greece, with 13 arches stretching over 110 meters, on Kythira Island; photo by Ivan Kralj.

Unofficially? It was a labor of love. The British engineer John McPhail (or MacFale in some versions of the legend) commissioned the construction out of desire, so he could more easily visit his young mistress in the village of Katouni. The result of this amorous effort was a bridge resting on 13 arches, reaching the height of 15 meters, and stretching over 110 meters, making it the longest stone bridge in Greece.

Fact or folklore, the story endured and became a part of the bridge’s identity, a symbol of Kythira’s romantic charms that even colonial administrators couldn’t resist.

For more fascinating stone work, check out these ancient Greek bridges, all located in Zagori villages in the north of the country. 

10. Hang Out With Ducks at Amir Ali Springs

In Kythira’s northern wilds lies a village called Karavas, where water flows even when the Valley of the Watermills falls silent.

In this verdant, fairytale setting, the spring of Portokalia (Greek for ‘oranges’) supposedly adopted its name from a legendary tree so large it was bearing thousands of oranges every year, and took an entire family for a proper tree hug.

The legend behind the springs’ other name – Amir Ali Springs – is a bit more sinister. During Ottoman rule, a Turkish supervisor named Amir Ali is said to have demanded the right to sleep with every newlywed bride. But a local named Giorgis had other plans: disguised as his own wife, he awaited the tyrant on his wedding night. In some versions of the story, the angered Amir Ali cut off the man’s head by the spring. Others say it was the despot who got beheaded. In a gentler retelling, Amir Ali fell from his horse when he fell in love with a woman from Karavas.

Ducks resting by Amir Ali Springs in Kythira, Greece; photo by Ivan Kralj.

Ducks swimming in Amir Ali Springs on Kythira Island, Greece; photo by Ivan Kralj.

This lush ravine today looks less like a crime scene and more like a peaceful oasis of plants  (plane trees, laurels, myrtles) and animals (ducks, cats). Only when a dog passes by, the serenity of coexistence gets shattered, with startled ducks flying into the spring, and cats leaping to safety in the trees above.

Springs of Amir Ali are a stop on the M49 and M49a walking trails, but can be easily accessed from the village of Karavas for a short visit. Its ever-flowing waters echo the fertility of the goddess of love, Aphrodite’s power often symbolized by timeless springs and rivers.

This place is a great pick for a picnic. For supplies, stop at Karavas Bakery. Come early, though. By the time I arrived at 1 pm, only two Philadelphia cheese pastries remained (2.40 euros each).

Photographs on the brick wall of Karavas Bakery in Karavas showing production of the famous Kythira rusks, on Kythira Island, Greece; photo by Ivan Kralj.

This family bakery, operating since 2006 in a converted 1963 olive oil factory, is also home to the famous Kythira rusks (ladopaximada). To discover the best of these crispy local treats, try the classic olive oil version first. Of course, other savory (spicy, sundried tomato & thyme, olive & oregano) and sweet versions (almond & honey, orange, cranberry) are also worth sampling – a 300g pack costs 4.50 euros.

11. Discover Kythira shipwrecks

When, in October 2022, a ship carrying over a hundred asylum seekers on the Route of Calabria, from Turkey to Italy, crashed into the rocks near Diakofti, it became the latest of accidents in Kythira shipwreck history – reminding us that even the goddess of love can’t calm every sea.

The most visible wreck today is that of the Nordland, a half-submerged Russian cargo ship lying just off the coast of the island’s main port. In August 2000, the vessel’s drunken crew managed to run it aground on the islet of Prasonisi. Bound for Turkey, the massive steel ship’s voyage ended abruptly on Kythira’s reefs, its stern sinking 30 meters below the waterline while the bow still juts from the shallows – visible all the way from Diakofti. It is a rusty magnet for experienced wreck divers.

Aerial view of Kythira shipwreck, Russian cargo ship Nordland that sunk in front of Prasonisi islet, Greece; photo by Ivan Kralj.

Another famous Kythira shipwreck lies in the Agios Nikolaos Bay, just outside the charming harbor of Avlemonas. In September 1802, the Mentor, a ship owned by Scottish collector Lord Earl Elgin, set sail from Athens to Malta, loaded with marble sculptures looted from the Parthenon and other ancient sites. Caught in fierce winds, the ship met its fate on the rocks that gave birth to the goddess of love. The stolen antiquities sank as if summoned by Aphrodite herself. It took two years and the help of local sponge divers to retrieve the treasures from a depth of 22 meters.

T-shirt with Antikythera Mechanism motif print, displayed outside a shop in Kythira, Greece; photo by Ivan Kralj.
The most popular T-shirt print in Kythira was designed two millennia ago

Yet the most valuable shipwreck in this region is the shipwreck of Antikythira, Kythira’s tiny sister island, halfway to Crete. In the 1st century BCE,  a Roman-era merchant ship sank there, its contents lost for nearly two millennia until sponge divers stumbled upon it in 1901. Among hundreds of artifacts – ceramics, coins, jewelry – was a corroded bronze lump no bigger than a shoebox. It will turn out to be one of the greatest archeological discoveries of all time – the Antikythera Mechanism, an ancient device capable of predicting solar and lunar eclipses, tracking planetary movements (including that of Venus, Aphrodite’s planet, of course), and even marking the dates of the ancient Olympic Games.

Often called the world’s first analog computer, this masterpiece of Greek engineering and astronomical knowledge is now displayed at the National Archaeological Museum in Athens. But if you’d rather skip the mainland crowds, head to Potamos, Kythira’s largest village. On the ground floor of the Municipal building, the Mechanism of Antikythera Hall houses a working replica you can visit on weekdays from 9 am to 2 pm.

12. Sleep in the Lovebirds’ Nest – The Pigeon House

If you’re going to stay on the island of Aphrodite, you might as well pick somewhere that feels worthy of her blessing. In Potamos, a lively village known for its traditional Sunday market where you can buy everything from Kythira salt to local wine, you’ll find The Pigeon House: a lovingly restored tiny stone home that once served as a peristeronas (dovecote). Today, it’s been reborn as an elegant hideaway that perfectly blends rustic charm with quiet romance.

With thick stone walls and wooden beams, attention to detail in interior decoration, and a garden terrace perfect for slow mornings and starlit evenings, this cute chalet is one of Kythira’s most atmospheric cocoons.

The interior of the Pigeon House, a former dovecote turned accommodation unit on the island of Kythera, Greece; photo by Ivan Kralj.

The cottage offers an open-plan space including a sleeping area with a TV, a kitchenette with a small dining table, and a separate bathroom with a walk-in shower. But what makes Pigeon House one of the most unique properties on Kythira Island is the nesting holes still visible in the exposed-brick wall. Once home to actual pigeons, they now cradle little trinkets, adding quirkiness to the property.

If you’re looking for accommodation on Kythira that’s more than just a bed for the night, the Pigeon House is a great choice. It folds the island’s history, quiet rhythms, and modern amenities such as complimentary bicycles into one storybook stay.

Managed by the ever-welcoming Irish host Claire Cremin, The Pigeon House rents from 60 euros in low season to 95 euros in peak season. Check availability here!

If this cozy little nest gets booked before you can claim it, don’t despair. The same host also manages other lovely stays, including Kamaraki in the traditional medieval village of Aroniadika, where I had the pleasure of spending a few peaceful nights.

The interior of the Kamaraki Aroniadika accommodation unit rented out on Kythira Island, Greece; photo by Ivan Kralj.

Kamaraki Aroniadika is a one-bedroom apartment designed for couples seeking both simplicity and comfort: a large bed with TV, Wi-Fi, air conditioning, and a shaded terrace under a vine.

While providing a peaceful retreat among the narrow stone alleyways, this property is centrally located, making it a great base for exploring every corner of the island.

And if you crave a taste of Kythira’s sweetest gift, you’re in luck – Aroniadika is home to the Agricultural Beekeeping Cooperative, where the island’s famous thyme honey is produced, one of the most aromatic honeys in the world.

You can book Kamaraki accommodation for 55 euros in low season, or 90 euros in high season. Check the rates for your dates here!

Where to stay on Kythira Island – more ideas

If you’d like to cast your net beyond Potamos and Aroniadika, there’s no shortage of charming places to stay on Kythira, from historic homes in the Old Town to the hotels on the beach.

In Chora Kythira, Margarita Hotel is a delightful option tucked just steps away from the capital’s Central Square. Housed in a restored historic building, yet equipped with all the modern comforts – think mini-bar, electric kettle, and air-conditioning – it’s a stay that balances nostalgia with convenience. See photos and prices here.

Down by the sea in Avlemonas, Kanellis Studios is an exceptional pick. With the Baths of Aphrodite just across the street and rolling hills behind, you’ll be spoiled with views whichever way you turn. The beachfront apartments are fully equipped, providing comfort and independence. Check rates and availability here.

If you prefer the calm of the port town of Diakofti, Eden Kythira is a well-rated beachfront property offering suites and apartments, plus a swimming pool to sweeten the deal. See their offer here. If the first-row sea seat is not your mandatory criterion, consider the siren call of the pet-friendly Sirene Villas nearby.

Finally, for travelers who want to stay in Kythira’s northern reaches, Hidden Retreats Kythira above Platia Ammos offers luxury villas with stunning architecture, outdoor hot tubs, and panoramic views. It’s the type of place you might accidentally (and happily) forget to leave. Check their exceptional reviews and photos here.

Road leading to Kythira Island in Diakofti, Greece; photo by Ivan Kralj.

How to get to Kythira Island

Floating between the Aegean and Ionian Seas, the island of Kythira sits south of the Peloponnese and north of Crete. You can reach it by air or by sea, depending on your route and travel style.

✈️ By Air

From Athens: Domestic flights from Athens International Airport (ATH) to Kythira Island National Airport (KIT – Alexandros Aristotelous Onassis) take around 45 minutes and run year-round. The airport is located roughly 20 minutes from Chora and 10 minutes from Diakofti Port.

From abroad: In summer, there are occasionally charter flights from select European cities (especially from Italy and the Netherlands) landing directly on Kythira. Otherwise, Athens remains your main connection hub for international arrivals.

🚢 By Ferry

From Neapoli (Laconia): The most common and shortest Kythira Island ferry route, taking about 1 hour and 15 minutes to reach Diakofti, the island’s main port.

From Piraeus (Athens): Longer ferries from Kythira to Athens (about 6–7 hours) operate several times a week. If you’re traveling from Santorini to Kythira, the shortest way would be to connect via Piraeus. Equally, there are no direct flights or ferry routes between Mykonos and Kythira – you’ll need to go to Athens first.

From Crete (Kissamos port, near Chania): Ferries connect Kythira to western Crete in roughly 4 hours.

From Gythio (Mani Peninsula): A scenic ferry route from Gythio to Kythira (around 2-3 hours) is ideal if you’re exploring the southern Peloponnese.

How Many Days to Stay in Kythira

Kythira isn’t the kind of island you rush through. Its magic unfolds slowly. That said, how long you stay depends on what kind of traveler you are.

Abandoned TV appliance left on the street of Chora Kythira, Greece; photo by Ivan Kralj.
You won’t be needing a TV during your Kythira vacation

A Long Weekend (3–4 Days)

Just enough to taste Kythira’s contrasts – the Venetian castle above Chora, the twin coves of Kapsali, and a few standout beaches like Kaladi or Fyri Ammos. Perfect for a relaxed escape if you’re flying in from Athens.

Best for: A romantic getaway or a short reset surrounded by sea and myth.

A Full Week (6–8 Days)

The sweet spot for most travelers. A week gives you time to explore both north and south Kythira, hike the Watermills Valley to the waterfalls, discover hidden spots like Limni Beach and the Green Lake, and linger longer in Avlemonas or Mylopotamos without watching the clock.

Best for: Travelers who want to balance beach days, hiking, and village life.

Ten Days or More

If you can, stay longer. Kythira has a way of bending time – and the longer you stay, the more it rewards you. Days stretch, plans soften, and suddenly you’re part of the island’s rhythm. You can wander without purpose, find secret coves, get to know locals, or even hop over to Antikythera on a day ferry.

Best for: Explorers, writers, photographers, and anyone who loves to be off the tourist grid.

When Should You Go to Kythira?

Kythira Island Weather

Kythira sits where the Aegean, Ionian, and Cretan seas meet, and its weather reflects that crossroads – its climate is milder and more balanced than on many Greek islands.

Come in spring or autumn for peace and nature, summer for the classic Greek island glow, and winter if you want Kythira almost entirely to yourself.

🌸 Spring (April–June)

Spring might just be the best time to visit Kythira. The island turns lush and fragrant – hillsides carpeted in wildflowers, olive groves shimmering in new green, and hiking trails like the Valley of the Watermills at their most beautiful.

Temperatures hover between 18°C and 26°C, and the sea slowly warms up for the season.

Best for: Hikers, photographers, and explorers of sleepy villages.

☀️ Summer (July–September)

Summer brings long, golden days and warm nights scented with thyme and sea salt. Expect temperatures between 28°C to 33°C, though the meltemi winds (northern summer winds) often cool the afternoons.

That said, when heat and wind join forces, nature sometimes fights back – Kythira fires in August 2017 and July 2025 scorched about 10% of the island. Yet when skies are clear and seas calm, this is Kythira at its finest, perfect for swimming at Kaladi, Limni, or Fyri Ammos Beach, sailing the coast, or diving into underwater shipwrecks.

Best for: Beach lovers, divers, and anyone chasing sunlight.

🍂 Autumn (October–November)

Autumn feels like a well-kept secret. The crowds are gone, the light turns honey-gold, and villages exhale after summer. Temperatures linger between 20°C and 27°C, ideal for long walks and slow travel. Kythira sea temperature in October can actually be warmer than in June, averaging 23.1°C.

Harvest season brings local festivals, olive picking, and freshly pressed oil.

Best for: Travelers who prefer authenticity over bustle.

🌧️ Winter (December–March)

Winters are mild yet moody – expect wind, rain, and temperatures between 10°C and 17°C. Most restaurants and guesthouses close, but the island’s dramatic coastlines feel even more mythic in solitude.

Best for: Writers, nature lovers, and anyone seeking silence.

Kythira festivals

If you’re still not sure about the best time to visit Kythira, maybe this selection of the most important island festivals can inform your decision.

Feast of Agia Elesa (August 1)

On this day, a solemn pilgrimage is held at the Monastery of Agia Elesa, dedicated to a young martyr from the 4th century, who was whipped, hanged, and beheaded by her own pagan father for converting to Christianity. Locals climb the hill to honor her courage and devotion, with prayers, candles, and songs.

Kythira Wine Festival (Saturday before August 15)

Held in Minata village, Kythira Wine Festival is one of the island’s liveliest summer nights. Expect live music, dancing, and plenty of local wine – a joyful celebration of Kythira’s long winemaking tradition.

Kythira Panigiri (August 15)

The biggest celebration of the summer is centered around the feast day of the Virgin Mary (Panagia). It begins with church services and continues into the night with tsirigotika rhythms – folk dances unique to Kythira – and long tables filled with goat stew, wine, and sweets. The largest gathering is on the central square of Potamos.

Similar panigiria (village festivals) can be found all across the island – in Kalokairines (July 15), Kato Livadi (last Saturday in July), Avlemonas (August 6), Mitata (August 9), Mylapotamos (August 12), Pitsinianika (August 16), and Fratsia (August 17).

Portokalia Festival (last weekend of August)

Named after the orange tree valley, the Portokalia Festival is organized in the village of Karavas. It marks the end of summer with concerts of both popular and local artists, sports games, and local delicacies.

Kalamos Festival (September 15)

On the occasion of Agios Nikitas’ feast day, locals gather in the courtyard of the old school in Kalamos for a night of traditional food, music, and dancing under the stars.

Agia Pelagia Festival (September 23)

The seaside village of Agia Pelagia comes alive with folk music and dancing along its coastal road – a vibrant farewell to summer.

Festival of Panagia Myrtidiotissa (September 24)

The island’s most sacred day honors Panagia Myrtidiotissa, Kythira’s patron saint. Pilgrims gather at the Monastery of Myrtidia, where, in a myrtle bush, the miraculous icon of the Virgin Mary was discovered by a shepherd in the 14th century. It’s a day of reverence, unity, and faith, a fitting finale to Kythira’s festive season.

Is Kythira worth visiting? – Conclusion

Kythira isn’t the kind of island that overwhelms you. It doesn’t shout its beauty – it whispers it. It takes a few days to adjust to its rhythm, to tune into the silence between the cicadas, to notice how the light softens the old stone walls at dusk.

This is the island where Aphrodite is said to have risen from the sea foam. You can still feel something divine in the way its beaches and waters take perfect forms, in the glow of the horizon after sunset, or in the warmth of strangers who greet you like old friends.

Kythira reminds you that travel should be unhurried, genuine, and full of wonder. Just like love

Kythira has a quiet power: it doesn’t seduce you instantly, but once it does, you’ll hardly let it go.

So yes, Kythira is worth a visit. Not because it’s loud or famous, but because it reminds you what love, and travel, should really feel like: unhurried, genuine, and full of wonder.

And when you finally leave, on a ferry across the mythic waters of Aphrodite’s birth, you’ll catch yourself looking back at the sea. Behind all those unfortunate shipwrecks and salty rocks covered in undying flowers, you’ll be half-expecting to see the goddess rising. She might even command you to build a bridge, so you can return to the place you fell in love with, again and again.

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Kythira is the island where Aphrodite, the goddess of beauty, pleasure and procreation, was born from a sea foam. Learn everything you need to know about the Greek island of love!

Disclosure: My stay at the Kamaraki in Aroniadika, as well as the rental car from Drakakis, were complimentary, but all opinions are my own.

Also, this post may contain affiliate links, meaning if you click on them and make a purchase, Pipeaway may make a small commission, at no additional cost to you. Thank you for supporting our work!

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🧓 Granny Summer – The Temperature of Goodbye – Pipeaway Newsletter #189 https://www.pipeaway.com/newsletter-189/ https://www.pipeaway.com/newsletter-189/#respond Mon, 13 Oct 2025 15:59:00 +0000 https://www.pipeaway.com/?p=14889 Pipeaway Newsletter #189: The last check-out followed by the first chills. Saying a farewell to the Adriatic for now, in a village that shrank in one afternoon.

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Hi from Igrane!

This is the last time I’m checking in at the tiny Dalmatian village, which has become even smaller with the departure of the final hotel guests yesterday at noon.

Temperatures still hover around 20 degrees Celsius, so instead of heading directly to my hometown of Zagreb, I decided to linger around for a couple of days, under the autumn sun, without an alarm clock waking me up for work. Finally, no noise, no rush, no pressure.

This warm and dry autumn is called bablje ljeto (grandma’s summer) in Croatia. Our version of the late ‘Indian summer’ is a period when grannies can still warm up their bones under the sun.

Yesterday, as I entered the sea for one of the last dips, the cold water chilled my granny bones as if I jumped into the Arctic, not the Adriatic.

While I’m not a seal-man and can hardly stand long periods in water at such temperatures, the experience made me admire all those whose swimming adventures continue all the way until Christmas. Well done. For you.

I can’t say I haven’t tried. During one of my visits to Finland, I jumped from a warm sauna to a chilling sea. It was a refreshing and fun afternoon. But it was still just a one-off thing. Not a lifestyle change. Kudos to everyone who can and will continue treating their bodies with temperature shocks throughout the winter!

Well, I won’t abduct your attention for too long. Those sun rays won’t be around forever. So I do plan to expose myself to them for these couple of days of an extended stay, before urban life takes over.

Embrace your inner granny!

Have a warm week,

Ivan Kralj        
Pipeaway.com


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🧭 Lost in Transaction, Found in Transit – Pipeaway Newsletter #188 https://www.pipeaway.com/newsletter-188/ https://www.pipeaway.com/newsletter-188/#respond Mon, 06 Oct 2025 15:59:16 +0000 https://www.pipeaway.com/?p=14886 Pipeaway Newsletter #188: On a nomad's map, I'm back on the hunt for extraordinary places, people, and passions, but also for - X. Where's the real treasure buried?

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Hi from xxx?

In a week, I’ll be finishing my three-month-long adventure of working as a bellboy at one Croatian hotel, and I’ll be back on the road again.

This “being on the road” sounds slightly more exciting than “being homeless”, I guess.

Since June 2024, when my Zagreb rental apartment contract finished, and I realized that the Croatian flat market and my wallet don’t speak the same language (lost in transaction), I have mostly become a nomad, only renting a Harry-Potter-style cupboard under the stairs in my hometown‘s version of the Dursleys‘ house, for some of my belongings.

Since then, I have passed through 10 countries altogether, traveling and working on my laptop, or taking on a job that came with included accommodation, such as during the summer season that has just ended.

As I stand in front of another great unknown, I’m totally open to suggestions.

What I definitely imagine doing in the next period is sitting back behind my laptop and finishing many of the travel stories still waiting for the final delivery. Mapping extraordinary places, people, and passions might be my main focus until the end of the year. This means the content on Pipeaway‘s website and other media channels should become more frequent as well. Now, I only need to define the location. Any ideas?

As I look for my grand X, like pirates who forgot where the treasure was buried, I wish you creative clarity to pursue your most frequently postponed dreams and goals.

Have an X-traordinary week,

Ivan Kralj        
Pipeaway.com


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🔍 Objects in the Mirror Are Closer Than They Appear – Pipeaway Newsletter #187 https://www.pipeaway.com/newsletter-187/ https://www.pipeaway.com/newsletter-187/#respond Tue, 30 Sep 2025 00:42:02 +0000 https://www.pipeaway.com/?p=14883 Pipeaway Newsletter #187: In geographies of desire and fear, we are keen to misjudge distances. Widen your view, and reduce your blind spots!

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Hi from Italy!

In reality, the soft sands of Puglia‘s Gargano Peninsula are roughly 150 kilometers away from the rugged Dalmatian coast, where I actually reside at the moment.

However, in recent conversations with some hotel guests, I’ve discovered that the human ability to provide rough estimates on geographic matters is often overrated.

“Is that Italy?”, the two unconnected visitors recently asked me while pointing at Hvar Island, some 6 kilometers away from the Igrane shores.

To see Italy on the horizon, one would have to jump over Hvar, PelješacKorčulaLastovo, and the entire Adriatic Sea.

Yet, the curious guests were seriously thinking they were greeting Italy, so close that you could almost touch it. That is, if you had really, really long hands.

We know more than one joke about tourists trying to reach the Italian boot from Croatia on a SUP instead of a ferry. Travelers’ ability to feel the distance is highly overestimated.

On the other hand, there are people who think of international travel as something incredibly far and inaccessible.

If I hop over to Switzerland from Croatia, my mother, for instance, could ask me, “Which time zone are you in?”

For her, leaving for Asia is like heading to the Moon. I cease to be a backpacker and instantly become an astronaut. Everything sounds so far and grand, an entire world away.

I feel that many people who can afford to travel to foreign countries and yet postpone chasing those dreams are trapped in a mindset that overestimates the adventure as expensive and unattainable. Do you have that brake in yourself?

The world is more connected than ever, and if we exclude primitive wars tearing societies apart, we hardly live in the era of Magellan, when traveling the world was a privilege of a few, blessed by investors.

“Destinations in the mirror are closer than they appear”, if I may rephrase the famous safety warning. Widen your field of view, and you might be able to both identify and reduce your blind spots while traveling.

Have a curious week,

Ivan Kralj        
Pipeaway.com


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🌦️ Seasons Colliding – Pipeaway Newsletter #186 https://www.pipeaway.com/newsletter-186/ https://www.pipeaway.com/newsletter-186/#respond Mon, 22 Sep 2025 22:15:18 +0000 https://www.pipeaway.com/?p=14878 Pipeaway Newsletter #186: The weather forecast can mess up our holiday plans. The last day of summer is maybe a great moment to reflect on winter holidays!

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Hi from Igrane!

I’m getting a day off at work tomorrow, which is luckily just before the rains mark the arrival of autumn on the Makarska Riviera.

Still, right across the canal, we look at Hvar, the sunniest European island, with approximately 2,760 hours of sunshine per year. In the past, so confident was Hvar in its climate that some of its hotels offered free stays in the event of heavy rain, snow, or fog.

We’re practically on the opposite side of the spectrum, with its wettest corner occupied by Bergen, the rainiest city in Europe. When I visited this Norwegian gem of a town in September seven years ago, I was fortunate not to experience a single drop of rain during my five-day stay. I try to comfort guests with stories of unusual odds, hoping that would ease the pain of booking a room practically at the end of the season, when the weather wants to have a life of its own.

Even if you’re not squeezing out the last minutes of your summer, now might be the right time to start planning your winter. Why wouldn’t you consider taking exactly Scandinavian holidays? Discover the lands of fjords and northern lights – there’s some magic hidden there, even if you don’t believe in Finland‘s Santa Claus!

Consider including these Scandinavian cities in your Nordic itinerary! You can easily discover them by train, even if Norway’s Atlantic Ocean Road ranks as one of the best routes for electric car road trips. After all, we are speaking of a country with the largest number of EVs per capita in the world, already living up to the dreams of zero-emission cars.

The future is just around the corner. Start planning your trips now!

Have a sunny week,

Ivan Kralj        
Pipeaway.com


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🚗 Can You Please Let Me Park My Car? – Pipeaway Newsletter #185 https://www.pipeaway.com/newsletter-185/ https://www.pipeaway.com/newsletter-185/#respond Mon, 15 Sep 2025 15:59:22 +0000 https://www.pipeaway.com/?p=14873 Pipeaway Newsletter #185: With these lessons from the hotel parking lot, learn the art of not hitting things!

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Hi from Igrane!

This small Croatian coastal village is situated on the Adriatic Highway, also known as the Jadranska Magistrala. Less of a real highway, this winding road follows a scenic coastline route all the way from Slovenia to Montenegro. Ideal for a road trip!

Suppose you’re not one of those who pre-arrange the convenient airport transfer service. In that case, there is only one real alternative for reaching mini-destinations like Igrane – arriving with one’s own vehicle.

I love road trips. Whether in an electric car, a converted bus, or any old-school vehicle that does the job, road trips secure independence and flexibility that are hardly comparable to any other type of traveling.

After now working exactly two months assisting tourists on how to park a car in the hotel’s parking lot, I’ve learned there are a few quite important things one should know when hitting the road on four wheels

1. Prepare yourself for narrow roads.

Not all roads in the world are four-lane highways. In centuries-old villages such as Igrane, roads were not necessarily designed for two-way traffic (or cars, for that matter), so double-check how to reach your final destination, even by asking your hotel directly. Arriving at the exit ramp instead of an entrance one may mean you’ll have to drive in reverse gear through a steep and unfamiliar environment. You may hit unseen obstacles, like I witnessed when a guest crashed their car into a concrete flower pot in full force.

2. Always take full insurance.

The flower pot crash happened just at the moment when I was looking into another couple’s car, showing me their car’s dent and half-missing headlight. Especially when renting a car in a foreign country, it makes sense to prevent hefty bills by paying for full car insurance, or at least making sure that your rental fee is charged to a trusted credit card that might have certain benefits when it comes to paying for damages.

3. Learn how to put the car in reverse.

Some guests were struggling with their car in front of the hotel entrance and, when I offered my assistance, they asked if I knew how to shift into reverse. I assumed it was just another tourist who didn’t ask their rent-a-car company basic questions about the vehicle type they were not familiar with. But no, these guys owned this very car! Please, PLEASE, learn how to select reverse in your car (rental or owned) – that is an essential function for surviving any road.

4. Accept assistance when offered.

One female driver in a rather large car had to park in the parking lot that had limited maneuvering space. When I saw her struggling, I offered her another, more convenient parking spot; she declined. As she was driving backwards, she was about to hit another parked car, and I yelled: “Stop! Stop!” She responded to that: “Can you please let me park my car?” At that point, I removed myself completely from the responsibility for the situation, as I saw this was a person who doesn’t accept assistance even when it is clearly needed. After a long struggle, she managed to park the car on the spot somehow, but then, ignoring the laws of gravity on this slightly sloped lot, she hit and damaged the neighboring car when opening the door. Even if I actually warned her that she had parked too close to the other vehicle.

5. Don’t over rely on assistance.

Your car is still your car. While hotel staff might be there to assist you in parking your car, it is the person behind the wheel who is responsible for the movement of their vehicle. For instance, you should know your car’s characteristics when parking in limited spaces. One hotel guest had a car with quite a low undercarriage (which was not so obvious from the outside). When he had to park on a truly not-that-high sidewalk, he scratched his car from beneath, and then made a scene out of it, claiming that somehow his car was destroyed by the hotel’s assistance or the lack of it. If you love your property, you should know what you can and can’t do with it to keep it safe.

Parking sideways, engaging reverse gear, knowing the size of your car (width, length, height) are all essential elements when hitting the road, if you don’t want to hit something – by the road.

Road trips are an amazing way to explore a destination. But don’t treat your car like a bumper car. Real roads are not a lunapark arena, where hitting things is fun and costless.

Have a safe-driving week,

Ivan Kralj        
Pipeaway.com


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⏳ How Would You Spend Your Last Vacation? – Pipeaway Newsletter #184 https://www.pipeaway.com/newsletter-184/ https://www.pipeaway.com/newsletter-184/#respond Mon, 08 Sep 2025 15:59:43 +0000 https://www.pipeaway.com/?p=14870 Pipeaway Newsletter #184: Any trip you take could be the final one. Pack memories, not regrets!

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Hi from the Adriatic!

In January, it will be 9 years since I left for my first longer trip to Asia, and 5 years since He left forever.

Despite being born in the horoscope sign that shares the name with my father’s disease, I was not the cancer that took over. After 13 years of fighting, his body surrendered, letting out the final breath in the middle of the night.

Before I boarded that 2017 flight for Kuala Lumpur, carrying a dead Vietnamese walking stick in my bag, Dad told me to look after myself. That was the closest he got to saying “I love you”, something even hotel guests may mumble out.

But just a few days ago, I was both touched and humbled by what one guest shared at the check-out of the hotel I work for.

Like I mentioned last week, we receive an unusual number of families, debunking the myth that adults-only hotels are reserved just for romantic escapes. They can also be places where related adults gather to share family time in peace.

“I don’t know how much longer I’ll be around”, this guest shared, still with a smile, hinting at a medical issue that might cut his presence short. He took his little family on a vacation that might be his last, deciding to be remembered for moments of shared joy, not grief.

As I listened to his speech of gratitude for the service, a tear rolled out of my eye, prompting him to apologize immediately for “oversharing”.

What he reminded me of, however, is that, in the world that doesn’t always play according to our wishes and desires, time is all we have left. This guest was just aware of the fact that most of us don’t even consider: we all go on vacations that might be our last. How would you like to spend them if you knew?

Have a caring week,

Ivan Kralj        
Pipeaway.com


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👩‍👧‍👦 Family Travel, Not Just for Kids – Pipeaway Newsletter #183 https://www.pipeaway.com/newsletter-183/ https://www.pipeaway.com/newsletter-183/#comments Mon, 01 Sep 2025 15:59:25 +0000 https://www.pipeaway.com/?p=14867 Pipeaway Newsletter #183: Grown-up getaways are a thing. Reclaim your family time by traveling together and celebrating that unique kind of bond!

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Hi from Ratsada!

We’re, virtually at least, heading back to the subdistrict of Phuket Town, on Thailand‘s largest island, as I published some new videos of the Hilltop Wellness Resort I recently reviewed.

So, if you want to get a better picture of Phuket‘s yoga-focused hotel, check out this YouTube footage:
– drone views of the resort
– room walk-through
– tom yum soup serving (visitors’ favorite)
– wellness cocktail pick

While monsoon and severe weather conditions still affect many Thai regions, now is the perfect time to start planning your autumn escape. From November onwards, rainfall should decrease, and there will be plenty to explore in the Land of Smiles.

Who would you travel there with?

What I loved noticing in the hotel I work at this season is an impressive number of nuclear families in their adult years, hitting the road together. I’m talking about a mother-and-son trip. A father and a daughter. A mother with three sons. All adults, reclaiming their time together, which they normally had to this extent only when the kids were little. The circumstances might have changed, maybe the children are paying the bill now, but the experiences are normally priceless.

If your parent is still around, will you use the opportunity to bring them along on a trip that creates long-lasting memories?

If your son/daughter is busy year-round, will you try to reconnect on a weekend getaway?

Family travel is not reserved only for when the kids are young. Cherish and celebrate the bond whenever you can!

If you’re in the United States and looking for ideas on where to go, here’s how to plan a multi-generational trip to the Great Smoky Mountains.

Destination is not the most relevant. Family trips should be less about space and more about time. While there are numberless places to visit, there’s only a limited time we can all travel together. Use those days smartly.

Have a family-celebrating week,

Ivan Kralj        
Pipeaway.com


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😱 Screamless Escapes and Tantrum-Free Trips – Pipeaway Newsletter #182 https://www.pipeaway.com/newsletter-182/ https://www.pipeaway.com/newsletter-182/#respond Tue, 26 Aug 2025 00:23:29 +0000 https://www.pipeaway.com/?p=14864 Pipeaway Newsletter #182: Silence is golden. Many can experience it only on vacation. France considers banning adults-only hotels, but child-free holidays can be a blessing.

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Hi from Dalmatia!

In southern Croatia, which gave the famous spotted dogs to the world’s children through Disney, tourism doesn’t just revolve around families.

At the hotel I currently work for, as well as some other establishments dotting the coastline like Dalmatian dog spots, all guests are adults.

Tourism oriented at grown-ups (usually, at least 16+) is a valid niche. But in France, certain political forces see adults-only hotels as an expression of age discrimination, so they call for outlawing such accommodations.

Should child-free hotels really be banned? As someone working in one, I can testify to how reinvigorating it can be for adults spending their vacations (which they earned by working hard) without the noise of infant tantrums.

In fact, just this week, we had guests who were parents themselves. They proudly told me how they left the kids with grandparents and decided to treat themselves to a childless hotel stay as an award, away from the everyday drama.

Everyone sometimes needs to take a break. Parents from children, and children from parents. Parents from other parents. There is life beyond work, and housework, and family work. There is joy that doesn’t involve kids.

I don’t believe adults-only hotels are discriminatory. There are plenty of other hotels that welcome families with children. Just like it is completely fine that there are family hotels, focusing their business on satisfying the little ones, it is also logical that the business idea of caring for the big ones has fans.

If you’re looking for a hotel that could provide you with time and space to reconnect with yourself, I have a solution for you. Consider visiting Thailand, where, on Phuket IslandHilltop Wellness Resort leads the way in making guests’ wellbeing a priority. Read my review to see whether this hotel could answer your needs for inner peace.

People who advocate for adults-only hotels don’t necessarily “hate” children. They simply want to be able to design the holidays that matter to THEM. If they love higher temperatures, they won’t be booking ski lodges. If they are vegetarians, they won’t spend their time at meat barbecues. Likewise, if they want some peace, these tourists won’t pay high accommodation prices only to have kids splash pool water into their cocktails or scream through the restaurant hall at breakfast.

We should all be able to pick what we enjoy and control what we can.

Vacation time is precious, as that’s what we deserve after working for the entire year. We should be free to spend it as we wish.

Have a screamless week,

Ivan Kralj        
Pipeaway.com


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Hilltop Wellness Resort Review: Phuket Retreat Where Even Yoga Teachers Go for Detox https://www.pipeaway.com/hilltop-wellness-resort-review-phuket/ https://www.pipeaway.com/hilltop-wellness-resort-review-phuket/#respond Mon, 25 Aug 2025 12:05:11 +0000 https://www.pipeaway.com/?p=14793 Hilltop Wellness Resort is a wellbeing-focused retreat in Phuket, Thailand. Find out why even yoga teachers choose it for detox in our review!

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Western life seemingly despises Zen. We chase deadlines, success, and productivity, all at the cost of peace and presence. This growth-first mindset, that writer Edward Abbey called “the ideology of the cancer cell”, paradoxically leads to our own collapse. More and more, we turn our gaze eastward, to Asia, searching for places that teach the lost art of switching off the stress and the noise. Right off Thailand‘s western coast, Phuket Island is home to one such detox oasis – Hilltop Wellness Resort.

Nestled above the hustle and bustle of the largest Thai island, this is not a hotel you accidentally wander into. Hilltop Wellness Resort is a destination you discover with an intention, when you decide to nourish your body and mind.

Worth 40 billion dollars, the wellness economy is one of Thailand’s key soft powers

In 2025 (data until August 17th), Thailand saw a 7.04 % drop in foreign arrivals year-over-year. Now, the country is betting big on the wellness industry to reverse the trend. At Osaka Expo, Thailand is presenting itself as Phoumi Vimana (Land of Immunity), showcasing everything from medicinal herbs to Thai massage and cuisine. Worth 40 billion dollars, the wellness economy is one of Thailand’s key soft powers, and almost half of the wellness-focused properties are located in the country’s southern provinces – Phang Nga, Krabi, and Phuket.

On the serene hills of Ratsada, the northeastern fringe of Phuket Town, better known for Rassada Pier, the jumping-off point for southern island-hopping adventures, Hilltop Wellness Resort isn’t just gazing down on the growing wellness tourism sector. It is spearheading and shaping it.

If you’re looking for a Thai retreat that binds together yoga, wellness, and cultural immersion, this hotel is a great spot to put balance back in check.

Is this the rejuvenation sanctuary you’ve been looking for? Dive into our in-depth Hilltop Wellness Resort review, unpacking everything from facilities and programs to dining and service, and decide for yourself!

If you want to see what regular guests think of Hilltop Wellness Resort, read their reviews on Tripadvisor.
Blue infinity pool with orange parasols shot from above, at Hilltop Wellness Resort in Phuket, Thailand; drone photo by Ivan Kralj.
Balance at Hilltop Wellness Resort starts already with a yin-yang-style logo

First impressions – A modern escape in the Phuket hills

“My name is Boy“, said the driver as he pulled up to collect me in the center of Phuket Town.

Fifteen minutes later, we were entering the quieter subdistrict of Ratsada. While one could technically reach Hilltop Wellness Resort via public transport, this private transfer is the first step in peeling layers of stress off your vacation.

If you’d have to go from Phuket Airport to Hilltop Wellness Resort, the airport bus 8411 stops at the By Pass Highway (right by the BMW Showroom). From there, it’s just a matter of crossing the street (a leap-of-faith challenge) and hiking uphill. This ride takes 1.5 hours and costs 100 baht (3 USD).

But if you opt for the resort’s transfer (1,000 baht per car, 1,200-1,500 baht for a van), you can slice the travel time in half and, due to door-to-door service, immediately start trading jetlag for relaxation time.

Elevated above the frenetic pace of the urban jungle, the modern, minimalist architecture of the Hilltop Wellness Resort seemed like a safe nest in a real one. In a cascading layout seamlessly integrated with the slope of the hill, and surrounded by lush greenery, the hotel’s sleek, glass-heavy design, maximizing natural light, was promising more than mere panoramic views and a tranquil neighborhood.

Welcome coconut drink adorned with a frangipani flower and a brown plastic straw, at Hilltop Wellness Resort in Phuket, Thailand; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Nice, cold coconut at arrival (sadly, with a plastic straw)

Wellness-forward ethos was hinted by the lemongrass scent lingering in the lobby, one of my favorite Asian fragrances I can hardly say ‘no’ to when offered at the massage table.

A chilled coconut adorned with a delicate frangipani flower, an efficient check-in with friendly staff, as well as a clean and modern vibe of the peaceful reception area, all instilled a sense of calmness, making the arrival experience at Hilltop Wellness Resort a smooth start to recharging.

This secluded luxury resort in Phuket was making it easy to disconnect from the outside world and reconnect with oneself.

See Hilltop Wellness Resort from a bird’s-eye view on YouTube!

Ready to unwind above the treetops? Check availability and prices at Hilltop Wellness Resort.

Room experience – zen with a pool view

The 4-star Hilltop Wellness Resort offers a mix of rooms, suites, and studios. I had the pleasure of settling into a bright suite with a pool view, a spacious 54-square-meter cocoon on the fourth floor.

A bedroom in the suite with a pool view at Hilltop Wellness Resort in Phuket, Thailand; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Destination: relax

Split into two distinct areas (living and sleeping), with a kitchenette and bathroom tucked in, it struck that sweet spot between cozy apartment and boutique retreat.

The walls’ color scheme combined turquoise and white, softened by ribbed textures, giving a fresh vibe with a hint of retro chic.

Living room

The living room, in a Scandinavian-inspired design and clean layout, had an open plan, flowing from the hallway to a wide, sunlit window wall. The natural light flooding from the floor-to-ceiling glass made the space feel open and airy.

A kitchenette in a suite at Hilltop Wellness Resort in Phuket, Thailand; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Tiny kitchenette for basic needs

The compact kitchenette had a black Hitachi fridge, a single-bowl sink, and a little granite countertop with a microwave and a kettle. If you were not committed to full cooking (which you shouldn’t be when the resort’s restaurant exists), the kitchenette was a functional add-on to the room, in my case, used mainly to have a cold bottle of water or a quick cup of tea at hand.

Beside it, a petite dining corner stood ready with two blue-terracotta chairs and an in-room food menu displayed on the table, next to a vase of artificial flowers bravely pretending to be real.

A living room in a suite at Hilltop Wellness Resort in Phuket, Thailand, with armchairs, sofa, and TV; photo by Ivan Kralj.

The seating area leaned into soft tones of teal and orange, with two armchairs and a three-seater sofa gathered around twin round coffee tables. Beneath it all, a geometric rug cut the chill of the white tiled floor and tied the lounge together.

One design detail stood out: instead of leaving the flat-screen TV to glare awkwardly as a black rectangle on the wall, it had been framed with a minimalist mirror into a clever double-purpose panel with curved corners. It was a softened design choice, consistent with the resort’s tendency to replace hard edges with calm curves.

Besides the TV, a rolled yoga mat and yoga blocks on a floating shelf were mounted on the wall. A thoughtful touch for wellness-focused guests.

A rolled yoga mat hanging on the wall of the room at Hilltop Wellness Resort in Phuket, Thailand; photo by Ivan Kralj.
For a guided yoga session with a Finnish teacher, Heini Löppönen, tune in to channel 2

Bedroom

The bedroom carried the same calming DNA as the living area; soft pastel tones, geometric throw pillows, and another stylish rug that gave the space both personality and poise.

Vipassana Meditation book displayed next to the bed in a room at Hilltop Wellness Resort in Phuket, Thailand; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Meditation support on a bedside table

At its heart was a king-size bed that practically begged you to sprawl out after a day of poolside lounging (or maybe a jungle hike?). Facing the bed, another wide-screen TV.

A lounge chair sat invitingly in the corner, ideal for leafing through the provided Vipassana Meditation book.

Massive windows opened up to views of the pool deck, but also of an elevated walkway. Privacy-minded guests might want to keep the sheer curtains drawn. At dawn, the heavier blackout drapes will block out the light of the rising sun.

Soft-glow lamps on the bedside tables kept the mood gentle, while another artificial plant by the window was softening the modern design, bringing the illusion of nature indoors.

Bathroom

The bathroom continued the resort’s theme of clean, streamlined design. A glass-enclosed walk-in shower dominated the space, fitted with both a rain showerhead and a handheld option. Water pressure? Solid enough to make you linger longer than you should.

A built-in ledge kept things practical, stocked with shampoo, conditioner, and body soap in refillable dispensers, a small nod to sustainability. A towel rack, installed inside the shower area, was convenient for drying off right after usage.

A bedroom in the suite at Hilltop Wellness Resort in Phuket, Thailand; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Spacious and accessible bathroom at Hilltop Wellness Resort’s pool-view suite

The toilet was a standard Western-style fixture, elevated by a folded towel at its base shaped into a seashell fan, signaling hospitality care.

Balancing the light walls and tiles, a dark brown vessel sink morphed into the countertop, giving the space just enough contrast to feel modern without trying too hard.

It wasn’t an over-the-top, marble-and-gold kind of bathroom, but it didn’t need to be. Its calm, spa-like atmosphere made the daily rituals of showering and freshening up feel like small acts of self-care.

Experience Hilltop Wellness Resort’s room in this hotel walk-through video!

Expedia visitors especially value Hilltop Wellness Resort's amenities, rating it 9.4 out of 10. Check out what else they have to say!

Wellness facilities & programs

As inviting as the suites are, the Hilltop Wellness Resort is far more than a stylish place to sleep. It’s a destination designed to help you reconnect with yourself. The core of this Thai wellness retreat is its commitment to a holistic journey, where wellness programs can cater and customize to various needs. The resort’s wellness focus centers on movement, breath, and mindful eating.

Hill Club – yoga, meditation & fitness

For those who crave an active recharge, the Hill Club offers a state-of-the-art fitness center featuring a full range of cardio and weight-training equipment, lined in front of the panoramic views of Phuket City.

Fitness center Hill Club at Hilltop Wellness Resort in Phuket, Thailand; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Running on the treadmill while gazing at the lush hills makes sweating feel less like a chore and more like an energizing ritual

Next to the gym, a cozy studio hosts classes of Vinyasa / Yin / Hatha yoga every morning and afternoon. The room was of a perfect size for typically three or four participants at a time. The mirrored wall reflected the outdoor greenery, but also allowed even beginners to follow along with ease. The instructors – Heini, Yine, and Bamboo – guided us with patience, making practice approachable whether you were a seasoned yogi or a stiff first-timer.

Yoga class with Finnish instructor Heini Löppönen in the yoga studio of the Hilltop Wellness Resort in Phuket, Thailand; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Yoga in progress

Though I regularly found myself the only man in the room, the atmosphere during the yoga sessions was welcoming and inclusive. Hilltop Wellness Resort tends to attract solo female travelers on wellness journeys from across the globe. I had the privilege of meeting inspiring women like Marjie from the USA and Julia from Germany. Between shared stretches and shared breakfasts, conversations flowed naturally – stories of life, growth, and adventure adding depth to the retreat experience.

Besides daily yoga trainings in the studio (equally pleasurable when the sun shines over a yellow-flowered tree dominating the view, as well as when raindrops glide down the window wall), we powered up our experience with a sunrise yoga session. Staged on the resort’s rooftop every Tuesday and Friday, this early wellness ritual would start during the dark hours and culminate as the first sun rays break over the horizon. What a way to start a day! Yoga was truly the cornerstone of the Hilltop Wellness Resort’s ethos.

Sunrise yoga class led by an instructor Bamboo, on the rooftop of the Hilltop Wellness Resort in Phuket, Thailand; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Preparing for the Sun Salutation at dawn

Thermal Zone – heat, detox & city views

A separate flight of stairs led to a small Thermal Zone. Open daily from 1:00 to 7:00 pm (the door was a sliding one, in case it would confuse you into believing it’s locked when it isn’t, like in my brain-switched-off case), this tucked-away corner of the hotel, with sweeping views of Phuket cityscape through a curved glass wall, offered an elevated wellness experience.

Besides small boxes for valuables, there are no lockers here, so I recommend arriving at the Thermal Zone already dressed in quite nice kimono robes or spa sarongs provided in each room.

Thermal Zone at the Hilltop Wellness Resort in Phuket, Thailand; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Thermal Zone – relaxation on a deeper (and higher) level
Herbal steam room in the Thermal Zone of the Hilltop Wellness Resort in Phuket, Thailand; photo by Ivan Kralj. Full-spectrum infrared sauna in the Thermal Zone of the Hilltop Wellness Resort in Phuket, Thailand; photo by Ivan Kralj.

 

Once inside, you can switch between cool rinses in the shower cubicle and 15-minute sessions in the herbal steam room, where old healing techniques meet modern technology, and the full-spectrum infrared sauna, the first of its kind in Phuket. Unlike a standard sauna, this one penetrates deeper into muscles, aiding recovery but also promoting skin rejuvenation.

The experience doesn’t have to end there. Finish your detox ritual with one of the signature wellness smoothies at the bar, or serve yourself a cup of antioxidant matcha, locally sourced pandan tea, and even some popcorn at the nearby Plearn Lounge, a blend between a boutique hotel library and a modern co-working space.

A cup of tea with a swimming pool in the blurred background at Hilltop Wellness Resort in Phuket, Thailand; photo by Ivan Kralj. Plearn Lounge - a library and a co-working space at the Hilltop Wellness Resort, with floor-to-ceiling windows opening up to the panorama of Phuket City, Thailand; photo by Ivan Kralj.

 

A motivational poster on the wall read, “Think positive, feel positive, live positive”, adding a friendly, if a bit Instagram-influencer-esque, energy to the space. This chill lounge was an ideal common zone for reading a book, pretending to write a novel, playing a board game, or investing in other forms of casual socializing under a wrought-iron chandelier.

Cave Spa – ancient comfort in modern form

The spa is the star of any wellness retreat. Hilltop Wellness Resort operates the Cave Spa. While not located in an actual cave, it somehow does drag you into the original home of humanity: warm, embracing, and deeply secure. Rather than a flashy pampering session, the experience felt more intimate.

I already exposed myself as weak in front of the notes of lemongrass. Among the three signature aromatherapy rituals offered, my pick was an easy one: the one entitled Sense of Belonging, described as a grounding and sleep-inducing remedy.

An experienced Thai masseuse started the treatment with a traditional foot washing ceremony, cleansing of feet, yes, but also of daily stress, travel dust, and to-do lists.

Masseuse executing a foot washing ceremony before the massage treatment at the Cave Spa at Hilltop Wellness Resort in Phuket, Thailand; photo by Ivan Kralj. Freestanding bathtub filled with milky bath covered in floral petals at the Cave Spa at Hilltop Wellness Resort in Phuket, Thailand; photo by Ivan Kralj.

 

In the massage room, a calm touch was replaced with a tea-leaf body scrub, after which I was offered a cup of tea and a soak in a freestanding tub where white, yellow, and orange petals floated in a milky bath.

The massage itself lasted about two hours; lemongrass and lavender showcased their ability to replace anxiety with comfort. It was a professional experience of a skill tested and improved through centuries of Thai healing tradition, now offered to everyone seeking an authentic path to vitality.

Infinity pool – the liquid heart

At the heart of the Hilltop wellness offerings was a showstopper – an infinity pool. With an eye-catching resort logo embedded in the center (stylized as a yin-yang leaf), this rectangular pool on an elevated deck was a standout feature, spilling straight into the horizon and offering panoramic views of the area.

Infinity swimming pool at Hilltop Wellness Resort in Phuket, Thailand; photo by Ivan Kralj.
A couple having a pool all for themselves

Surrounded by the sets of sun loungers and umbrellas, mirroring the same two colors dominating the hotel rooms (the blue of the pool, and the orange of the parasols), hotel’s centerpiece was an extension of the overall brand identity, but also a functional focal point, whether you were looking for a kiddy pool with a waterfall spout fountain (rain curtain for a quick neck massage), or a deeper main section, perfect for morning laps or tranquil floating at sunset.

Travel blogger Ivan Kralj at the edge of the infinity pool shot from behind, at Hilltop Wellness Resort in Phuket, Thailand; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Towards the edge of the horizon
Travel journalist Ivan Kralj leaning on the edge of the infinity pool at the Hilltop Wellness Resort in Phuket, Thailand; photo by Ivan Kralj.
My foot expanding to gigantic proportions under water

Whenever I visited it during my three-day stay, the pool never felt crowded. In fact, I often had the entire space to myself – a luxury in itself.

Sadly, even the swim-up Sabai Bar, which was adding a tropical vacation vibe, had no server in sight during those visits. While it seemed to be a cool place to order a poolside smoothie or a cocktail from, I always had to fetch mine from the restaurant instead.

📌 Quick Booking Tip

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💡 Pro tip: Prices can vary depending on season and platform, so it’s worth checking at least two sites before reserving.

Thai Heritage Activities

Hilltop Wellness Resort had a strong offer of local trips (both active and relaxed) and Thai heritage activities available to guests throughout the week.

With dedicated resort guides, you could go temple hopping, browse vibrant night markets, stand-up paddle through mangrove forests, hike to Black Rock Viewpoint, or explore the rainforest at Khao Phra Thaeo Wildlife Sanctuary.

For a deeper cultural immersion, the resort designed a rotating schedule of hands-on Thai heritage workshops. You could try your hand at preparing local specialty dishes, desserts, and cocktails, handcrafting herbal soaps, playing traditional instruments, dyeing fabrics in a Thai Batik Painting class, or even stepping into the ring for an introduction to Muay Thai martial arts.

During my stay, I joined a one-on-one flower garland workshop (Phuang Malai). My teacher was Nam, the Hilltop Wellness Resort’s housekeeper, doubling as a floral decoration artisan. She showed me how to thread, weave, and layer jasmine, rose, and dahlia blossoms on a string, in intricate patterns.

Travel blogger Ivan Kralj participating in a flower garland workshop at Hilltop Wellness Resort in Phuket, Thailand; photo by Ivan Kralj. A part of the flower garland in progress at the workshop led by the housekeeper Nam at Hilltop Wellness Resort in Phuket, Thailand; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Flower garland workshop instructor Nam and travel blogger Ivan Kralj posing with their creations at the Hilltop Wellness Resort in Phuket, Thailand; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Flower by flower, garland

Thanks to my teacher’s patience and her openness to taking things less seriously, the 2-hour fun workshop went by in a flash. It resulted in not one, but two lovely flower garlands. It also brought a special memory of connecting with a hotel employee whose discreet room-prepping job usually stays behind the scenes, taken for granted.

In keeping with the tradition of Thai flower garlands as religious offerings or gifts, Nam and I went down to the hotel entrance and, after a short prayer, left one garland at a small shrine. I gifted the other one to a local friend.

Dining at Plearn Restaurant – Wellness on a Plate

Hilltop Wellness Resort excels at the Plearn Restaurant, an all-day dining restaurant on its fifth floor, delivering elegant design, attentive service, and a wow-factor view.

Panoramic glass walls stretched the full length of the restaurant, making the most of Phuket’s cityscape, rolling hills, and lush surroundings.

The chic interior of the Plearn Restaurant at Hilltop Wellness Resort with a panoramic view of Phuket, Thailand; photo by Ivan Kralj.
In Thai, ‘plearn’ (เพลิน) loosely translates to “joyful”, “pleasant”, or “delightfully absorbed” – a perfect way to describe enjoying a meal while losing track of time

The interior decor looked chic, with plush leather seating, and tables spaced with intention, enabling both privacy and view appreciation. The attention to detail, visible in golden cutlery, glass straws, and lotus-folded napkins, hinted a refined gastronomy.

At breakfast, a boutique buffet experience mixed Western staples with Thai flair. More resembling a curated café than a traditional hotel sprawl, marble-top tables offered a mix of fruit, cereals, pastries, and make-your-own-smoothie-bowl ingredients. For more local flavor, hot dishes such as pad Thai or massaman curry were available to order. The highlight was a Thai dessert section on a rustic bamboo stand, presenting trays with khanom (traditional Thai sweets) such as rainbow-layered jelly-like sweets (khanom chan), coconut-coated bites (khanom tom), and miniatures shaped like fruits and veggies (look choop).

Breakfast at Plearn Restaurant, Hilltop Wellness Resort, Phuket, shot from above - traditional Thai sweets, smoothie bowl, orange juice, and rice with vegetables, tofu, and sunny-side-up egg; photo by Ivan Kralj. Top view of the plated breakfast options (salad, omelette, veggies with tofu) served at the Plearn Restaurant at Hilltop Wellness Resort in Phuket, Thailand; photo by Ivan Kralj.

 

The award-winning Plearn Restaurant, however, defended its title of one of the top Thai restaurants in Phuket during lunch and dinner hours.

Chef’s set menus took guests on a culinary tour across four distinctive regions (Northern, North-Eastern, Central, and Southern Thailand), and could be paired with terroir-inspired cocktails, or even signature mixtures that, for instance, reflected tom yum soup flavors. Good to know: happy hour is from 4 to 7 pm, when you can get 2-for-1 cocktails and beers.

PAB, wellness cocktail made of passion fruit, apple, and banana, served at Plearn Restaurant, Hilltop Wellness Resort in Phuket, Thailand; photo by Ivan Kralj. Riceberry Queen, wellness cocktail made of mixed berries, riceberry, beetroot, and banana, served at Plearn Restaurant, Hilltop Wellness Resort in Phuket, Thailand; photo by Ivan Kralj.

 

In a true “travel global, drink local” philosophy, even classic cocktails at Plearn were based on Phuket-produced rum. In the drink menu, specialty coffees were also worth exploring (fruit espressos introduced coconut, orange, or passionfruit into your favorite hot/cold drink), while simpler herbal juices such as matoom provided an easy post-work recovery.

Pick your favorite wellness cocktail here!

 

The extensive food menu, accessible on restaurant tablets (a modern and practical solution that lets you visualise a dish), was filled with traditional meat and plant-based specialties, elevated with modern presentation. The most famous Thai soups, such as kaeng som or tom yum goong, were finished at the table in a siphon, delivering the kitchen’s lab-like experimentation as a theater in front of your hungry eyes.

Plearn fishcakes with apple sauce, mango sauce, and cucumber salsa, served as a part of the Chef's set menu at Plearn Restaurant, Hilltop Wellness Restaurant in Phuket, representing Central Thailand cuisine; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Fishcakes with cucumber salsa, mango and apple sauce, representing Central Thailand cuisine
Pad-mhee Korat, signature noodles from the Plearn Restaurant chef's hometown, served at Hilltop Wellness Restaurant in Phuket, representing Northeastern Thailand cuisine; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Chef’s hometown pad-mhee korat noodles, representing Northeastern Thailand cuisine
Northern-spiced tortillas with pork and hung lae curry, served as a part of the Chef's set menu at Plearn Restaurant, Hilltop Wellness Restaurant in Phuket, representing Northern Thailand cuisine; photo by Ivan Kralj.
Pork, hung lae curry and tortillas, representing Northern Thailand cuisine

See how tom yum goong is served at Plearn Restaurant!

 

Chef’s set menu number 3, an umami-forward journey, was among my favorites. Fishcake with cucumber salsa, apple and mango sauce, followed by pork melting in the mouth with hung lae curry and crisp tortillas, and rounded up with khao kati (coconut-milk rice) with grilled chicken and sweet-and-sour papaya salad, was a combination that didn’t leave much room for a dessert.

But do make some! Plearn’s interpretation of Thailand’s classic mango sticky rice, accompanied by a fried sticky rice spring roll and a refreshing ice cream, was a delight for both eyes and palate.

Mango sticky rice with fried sticky rice spring roll and vanilla ice cream, a modern reinterpretation of the classic Thai dessert; photo taken at Plearn Restaurant, Hilltop Wellness Resort in Phuket, Thailand by Ivan Kralj.
Mango sticky rice that sticks to your memory

Whether you chose the upscale interior of Hilltop Wellness Resort’s restaurant, or the breezy terrace, with a soundtrack of modern pop ballads (from Lewis Capaldi‘s “Someone You Loved” and Maroon 5‘s “Girls Like You” to Sia‘s “Chandelier” or “Unstoppable”), dining/drinking experience here felt like a modern extension of the resort’s wellness focus, aiming to restore you from within.

The guests who booked Hilltop Wellness Resort through Agoda especially value its service, rating it 8,9 out of 10. Read what they think here.

Who Hilltop Wellness Resort is (and isn’t) for

Hilltop Wellness Resort knows its audience, and it isn’t trying to be everything to everyone.

It’s a natural fit for:

  • Couples seeking a romantic spa escape or honeymoon
  • Solo travelers on a wellness journey (female yogis, meditation enthusiasts, and even yoga teachers will feel instantly at home)
  • Remote workers needing peace in nature

Hilltop Wellness Resort is sadly not suitable for:

  • Guests with mobility issues (accessibility may be challenging due to the number of stairs between facilities)
  • Families with young children
  • Travelers craving nightlife or beach access (if you are a partygoer, you’ll be better off staying in Patong)

Hilltop Wellness Resort Review – Final Verdict

Overall, my 3-day stay at Hilltop Wellness Resort was a pleasant experience, and I would gladly return.

As Thailand’s leading wellness resort, Hilltop strikes an elegant balance between calm and contemporary.

If you’re searching for a stylish hideaway with wellness at its core, it’s one of the best value-for-money choices in Phuket.

Pros:

✔️ A generous yoga program (2-3 sessions per day should satisfy even the most obsessed)

✔️ Thai heritage activities (securing genuine, memorable interactions with the staff)

✔️ Chic and spacious rooms

✔️ Friendly, intuitive, and graceful restaurant service

✔️ Panoramic views (while the resort cannot influence the state of infrastructure surrounding it, it still provides an opportunity to see Phuket from above)

Cons:

❌  No direct beach access (but that’s part of the charm)

❌  Limited nightlife or bar scene

❌   Attentiveness for the poolside bar service could be improved

❌  A reliance on plastic plants in décor (with flower garland workshop and lush natural surroundings, the fake flower choice feels out of place)

Hilltop Wellness Resort won’t be only a destination for those looking to flee urban jungles. They plan to embrace wellness leaders who embody a lifestyle many of us aspire to

With sunrise-to-sunset yoga, exceptional spa offerings, and upcoming mindfulness and meditation retreats in the jungle, Hilltop Wellness Resort and its care for their guests’ bodies, souls, and minds have a bright future ahead.

It won’t be only a destination for us, westerners, looking to flee our urban jungles. Hilltop Wellness Resort plans to embrace yoga teachers, monks, and wellness leaders who embody a lifestyle many of us aspire to.

Because in truth, even when our lives may look like Zen from the outside, we all need intentional breaks. Perched above Phuket’s sweeping vistas, Hilltop Wellness Resort is perfectly positioned to become a unique hideaway to design and execute our recovery.

How to book Hilltop Wellness Resort

While you can use Hilltop Wellness Resort with a day pass (a drop-in visit includes a yoga session, access to the pool, gym, and sauna for 600 baht, 16 euros, or 18.50 dollars), for the most fulfilling experience, aim at staying for at least several nights.

To read other guests’ reviews, see more photos of Hilltop Wellness Resort, and compare prices for your dates, check Hilltop Wellness Resort on Booking, Agoda, Trip, or Expedia.

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Hilltop Wellness Resort in Phuket, Thailand, is one of the country's leaders in wellness tourism industry. Read our review and find out why even yoga teachers choose this hotel for detox time.

Disclosure: My stay at the Hilltop Wellness Resort was complimentary, but all opinions are my own.

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