Thaipusam in Penang: A Complete Guide to Malaysia’s Wildest Walk of Faith

The sun hasn’t risen yet over the Lorong Kulit Car Park. Only dim motorbike headlights and the flicker of small bonfires perforate the thick darkness. While drummers tighten their drum skins over the flames, makeshift altars pop up among the blindfolded statues of Lord Murugan. Groups form, onlookers balancing on tiptoes as they try to score the best view. It’s not the usual morning flea market they’re after. For one extraordinary day, this sleepy George Town parking lot becomes the spiritual runway for Thaipusam, Penang‘s favorite Hindu festival.

In the days leading up to Thaipusam Day, Penang’s Tamil community had already handcrafted hundreds of wearable temples called kavadis, cracked thousands of coconuts, rolled iconic chariots through city streets, and prepared enough food to feed a small nation. Thaipusam celebration in Penang is among the largest in the world. But what resembles a massive exhibitionistic spectacle from the outside is normally a fulfillment of deeply personal and meaningful vows.

Thaipusam in Penang is an experience like no other

At the car park pulsing with mysticism since the wee hours, devotees prepare their offerings for a 4-kilometer march to the hilltop Waterfall Temple. Some slip into an expressive trance-like state, faces contorted in ecstasy. Others stay grounded in intimate bubbles, silent despite the noise.

A calm man with a short mustache catches my eye. His body is a gallery of miniatures. Small versions of milk pots hang from his torso, while a metal skewer in the shape of a spear (vel) penetrates his forehead.

As new holes are made in the skin of his back, absent and present at the same time, he pierces his wife with a deep gaze. The supportive woman can hardly handle it; she palms some of the pots, perhaps to absorb part of the burden, and joins the crowd outvoiced by the drums. Her lips tremble in rhythm: “Vel, vel! Vel, vel!”

While resting one arm on the shoulder of his young son, he reaches her forehead with the other, brushing her hair back with a tenderness that cuts deeper than any spear. She breaks into tears. The man tries to wipe them, but she swats his hand away, reaching for her sari instead.

Thaipusam Festival in Penang, Malaysia, is an experience like no other. If you’re planning to visit this intense test of spirit, here’s everything you need to know about the powerful Penang Thaipusam!

TL;DR: Thaipusam in Penang is a vibrant Hindu festival held each January or February, celebrating the victory of Lord Murugan over evil. It begins at George Town’s Little India and features a grand chariot procession to the Waterfall Hilltop Temple, intense acts of devotion like kavadi bearing and body piercings, and an outpouring of community spirit. Thousands of devotees walk barefoot for hours, while locals hand out free food and drinks (annathanam) along the way. Whether you’re a pilgrim or a curious traveler, Thaipusam is one of Malaysia’s most intense and unforgettable cultural experiences.

History and Significance of Thaipusam in Penang

Thaipusam roots run deep, all the way to Tamil Nadu, the southernmost state of India and the spiritual homeland of Lord Murugan fan clubs. From there, the festival spread to regions with large Tamil populations such as Singapore, Indonesia, Sri Lanka, Mauritius, and – Malaysia, where the celebration is mind-blowingly grand.

Thaipusam commemorates the day when Goddess Parvati handed her son, Lord Murugan, the deity of war and virtue in the Hindu pantheon, a powerful divine spear (vel) to defeat the demon Soorapadman (Surapadman).

This triumph of good over evil is at the heart of the festival that pilgrims embrace with devotion, gratitude, and penance. Many express their faith through purifying self-sacrifice, performing piercing rituals, or carrying physical burdens Tamils call kavadi. These can range from pots of milk to towering structures strapped to their bodies.

Thaipusam’s origin story can be traced to the Hindu scripture of Skanda Purana, so the mythology suggests this celebration has been around for thousands of years.

In Penang, the festival arrived in the 19th century, with South Indian migrants, especially the Nattukottai Chettiar community from the Chettinad region in Tamil Nadu. The British founded George Town in 1786, and as Tamil laborers worked and worshipped, in the 1800s they set up a simple shrine near a waterfall where they used to collect water. They embellished the humble hut with a spear and dedicated it to their patron deity, Lord Murugan. This was the site of the first Thaipusam celebrations on the island.

As for Thaipusam processions, Penang has been hosting them since 1856. In 1915, when the authorities relocated the shrine to a new hill, the Waterfall Hilltop Temple (Arulmigu Balathandayuthapani Temple) at Jalan Kebun Bunga became the epicenter of the festivities ever since.

Today, Penang throws the biggest Thaipusam celebration in all of Malaysia, and the largest outside of India, attracting thousands of devotees seeking blessings and tourists seeking wonder. Thousands? More like 1.5 million.

If you thought self-punishment was such a non-Christian thing to do, think again. Or just check out what Catholics do at Maleldo Festival!

Thaipusam in Penang – What’s so special about it?

1. Chetti Pusam for the early birds

Penang Thaipusam celebration is specific because it starts a day earlier – with Chetti Pusam.

On Thaipusam Eve, the Chettiar Indian community follows the silver chariot procession, carrying the thol kavadi (in Tamil: shoulder burden). This wooden arched structure is adorned with flowers and peacock feathers (the symbol of Lord Murugan’s vehicle).

Sometimes, the kavadi includes a pot of Indian organic sugar (nattu sakkarai), in which case it is called sakkarai kavadi. After receiving blessings, this sugar is used for the production of panchamirtham, a traditional Indian sweet made from bananas, honey, and dried fruits like dates and raisins.

2. Penang Thaipusam has two chariots – silver and gold

Thaipusam procession in Penang is unique because it involves two chariots – a silver one and a gold one.

It wasn’t always as blingy. In the late 19th century, a wooden chariot was in use for 37 years.

But in 1894, Penang Thaipusam ordered a silver chariot from Karaikudi (the homeland of Nattukottai Chettiar in Tamil Nadu). Two similar chariots were made at the same time, and allegedly the larger one, originally intended for Singapore, was delivered to Penang due to a shipping mix-up.

Standing over 7 meters tall, and weighing 5 tons, this silver chariot has been the star of the Thaipusam Penang event for 131 years. Traditionally pulled by a pair of oxen (representing the sacred bull Nandi, the vehicle of Lord Shiva), the silver chariot carries the statue of Lord Murugan, making a slow journey from Nagarathar Kovil Veedu Temple on Penang Street in Little India to Nattukkottai Chettiar Temple on Jalan Kebun Bunga.

Penang Thaipusam golden chariot joined the divine convoy in 2017. This chariot carries a vel, Lord Murugan’s sacred spear. It departs from Sri Mahamariamman Temple on Queen Street (the oldest Hindu temple in Penang), and heads to Sri Balathandayuthapani Temple on Jalan Kebun Bunga (the largest Lord Murugan’s temple outside of India, also known as the Penang Waterfall Hill Temple or Mel-Kovil, the hilltop temple).

On the eve of Thaipusam, the silver chariot sets off first, at 6 am, with the golden chariot following an hour later. But this isn’t a race. Every few steps, barefoot devotees halt the procession to lift offerings and receive blessings.

The mobile temples should reach the final destination of their 7-kilometer-long route before midnight. Fingers crossed. Because… There is another thing slowing down Penang Thaipusam chariot processions…

3. Thaipusam Penang coconut smash

The climate change has caused a coconut shortage in Malaysia. With stocks going down, prices went up. But that didn’t deter devotees from engaging in one of their favorite Thaipusam rituals – breaking coconuts.

Stacked into pyramids, then set fire to, hairy orbs await along the route of Thaipusam chariot processions. As the chariot approaches, the crowd springs to action. Devotees pick coconuts from the ground and smash them against the asphalt. Special street cleanup crews then quickly remove broken shells from the path, so the chariot can continue.

The coconut-breaking ceremony signifies an act of surrender in front of God. While the hard shell represents ego (tough, stubborn, and in need of cracking), the exposed white flesh symbolizes purity (the soul). By smashing coconuts on the streets, devotees throw away the bad luck from the past and invite good luck in the future.

Despite the deficit in coconut supply, hundreds of thousands of coconuts pay the price of a blessing on Penang streets during Thaipusam. With coconuts ending up in a landfill, environmentalists criticize this waste of resources. While some previous coconut smashers redirected their funds to, for instance, feeding Thaipusam visitors, many refuse to give up on the custom. Individuals are known to purchase 108 or even 1008 coconuts for the ritual, following the significant numbers in Hinduistic numerology.

4. Penang Thaipusam Panthal – no one leaves hungry

If there’s one thing more abundant than coconuts at Penang Thaipusam, it’s food. The festival is famous for its unique thaneer panthal (in Tamil, it translates as water pavilion).

Lining Jalan Kebun Bunga, the pilgrim path to the hilltop temple, are over 150 festively decorated stalls (in 2025, this delicious traffic jam counted 169 booths!). The volunteers at these refreshment huts serve up free vegetarian food and drinks to everyone willing to queue. It’s an occasion to break the fast with authentic South Indian soul-hugging delicacies, most often rice topped with curries, sambals, and other add-ons.

This act of serving food, called annadanam (in Sanskrit, anna means food, and danam means donation), is considered the highest form of charity and compassion in Hinduism. The practitioners believe that, besides satisfying hunger, this tradition also earns blessings for the giver, providing spiritual growth.

Thaneer panthal, with its warm generosity and community service, is the reason why Thaipusam in Penang is often called a festival that won’t leave anyone hungry.

Pro tip: Devotees traditionally eat these meals with their right hand. No forks, no spoons, just fingers. If you’re more of a utensil user, it’s wise to bring your own cutlery.

5. Chinese participation in Penang Thaipusam

Penang isn’t just Malaysia’s food capital. It’s also an island of multiculturality. While traditionally a Tamil Hindu celebration, Thaipusam in Penang attracts a notable number of ethnic Chinese. They attend it as spectators, but also actively participate in ceremonies.

Many ethnic Chinese bring offerings, wear saris and veshtis, break coconuts, and chant “Vel vel!” with as much gusto as their Tamil neighbors. They even carry kavadis and undergo piercing rituals.

While not changing their beliefs (the majority of them are Buddhist, and not interested in converting to Hinduism), they pay homage to Lord Murugan mostly as a consequence of decades-long exposure to Hindu religious practices in their neighborhoods.

Things get even more interesting when Thaipusam overlaps with the Chinese New Year. Sometimes, in cultural cross-pollination, there are even Chinese lion dance performances honoring Lord Murugan.

While an outsider could see Chinese participation in Penang’s Thaipusam as cultural appropriation, the inclusive Hindu community welcomes them with open arms and open hearts.

Racism at Thaipusam?

At Lorong Kulit Car Park, as devotees gather for their early-morning kavadi walk to the Waterfall Temple, the majority of observers seem to be Chinese. Many are armed with multiple cameras, telephoto lenses and selfie sticks, getting up close and personal with extreme Hindu rituals.

I often find myself stepping away from such crowds. There's this subtle nuance when photographer's understandable interest transforms into a limitless voyeurism that shows no respect for open wounds, sacred moments, or - anyone. So I rather wander off, find quieter angles, with patience, and when welcome.

That's how I met a young Hindu boy preparing to carry his very first kavadi. I was filming this family throughout the morning (much before the rituals that make most photographers salivate began).

Each time I passed, the boy greeted me with a smile. So when the moment of his forehead piercing finally comes, I am lucky to be right there, front row. Not because I forced my way in, but because I'd been there – quietly, consistently.

Noticing the unfolding scene (it's a pre-teen getting pierced, after all!), this older Chinese photographer storms in, pushing me, and creating commotion during the ritual.

He yells at me, accusing me of "hitting him so many times" with my backpack while he was just "standing here".

The claim is absurd, as I had been standing calm and alone when the ritual began. But I say nothing, there's no need for my uncalled voice to interrupt the moment as well. But Chinese paparazzo doesn't stop. He physically pushes himself in front of me, in full spite.  

After the ritual is over, he continues: "Go back to your country! You are f***ing rude!"

The boy's father, with incredible grace, tries to deescalate the situation. He turns to the photographer, and defends me: "He is a good man!"

Still, as the Chinese guy leaves the scene (presumably, to hunt other shots he feels entitled to), the atmosphere remains somewhat stirred.

His rasist slur that sent me "back to my country", so he could exercise his privilege to photograph in the country called Malaysia (not China), reminded me of another uncomfortable moment I experienced with a group of also Chinese-origin photographers in Ethiopia, when I was shooting photos of Bete Giyorgis in Lalibela. They too tried to turn a spiritual space into a chaotic photo op, dehumanizing locals for the sake of a "perfect shot".

Penang Thaipusam Schedule

Two days before Thaipusam

Sights and sounds of Little India

This year, Thaipusam coincides with Chinese New Year, and George Town is bursting with double the energy. I decide to leave the Tanjong CNY Celebration at Fort Cornwallis earlier. It’s fine, I’ve already caught my fill of LED dragons, pole-jumping lions and pyrotechnics at Pai Ti Kong. I enjoyed the sunset at this historic fort during Chap Goh Mei, I admired the art of calligraphy at Kek Lok Si, and feasted on Chinese street treats across George Town.

Instead of yet another loud welcome to the Year of Snake, I decide to spend my evening in Little India. Already two days before the official Thaipusam Day, this vibrant enclave in the heart of the city is buzzing.

In front of the Sri Mahamariamman Temple, Penang’s oldest Hindu temple, the commotion unfolds.

As urumi melam drums play their hypnotic, trance-inducing rhythm, a singer follows lyrics from a phone and spreads them over a megaphone. Barefoot puppeteers twirl around on top of a colorful mandala. A male giant dances with a drum, a female one carries a flute. Another two dancers are dressed as horses, and one spins with a rooster and a peacock atop his portable shoulder shrine – thol kavadi.

In the next round, a youthful troupe lights up the square, with the folk dance from the country of their ancestors – kolattam. Holding two wooden sticks each, they tap in rhythm, while harmoniously forming lines, triangles, and circles. Two girls join the energetic routine by flaunting peacock feathers, and another two balance tinsel-decked pots on their heads, a colorful spin on paal kudam (milk pot offering).

As the young performers pose for group selfies, a new wave of sounds rises from a red stage from across the street, where a seated band starts playing traditional Tamil songs.

Scents and flavors of Little India

On my way to Little India, I made a quick pit stop at Penang Famous Samosa, just before the Michelin-approved stall called it a day. Best Indian snack I’ve ever had – crispy, spicy, perfect. Little did I know there would be plenty of free food where I was heading.

As dancers and musicians set the atmosphere and entertain the crowd, a variety of delicacies quietly come out of the shrine.

A young woman in sari passes through the crowd, carrying a silver tray loaded with vadai, lentil fritters. This is blessed food, or prasadam. Just moments later, another woman graciously tiptoes across a floor covered in sandals, while distributing laddus, turmeric-colored sweet balls. This is only an intro for annadanam that comes later, making samosas in my bag utterly excessive.

The evening deepens, and devotees start lining up in front of massive pots set up at a makeshift food stall near the temple entrance. Volunteers serve generous portions into plastic containers, filling them with rice, dal, chutneys, and spiced vegetables.

No tables, no chairs, no bills. People eat standing, squatting on sidewalks, or from the trunks of cars doubling as dinner tables. It’s a gigantic street buffet, just a preview of thaneer panthal that saves everyone’s food budget in the following days.

Little India’s business as usual

During the cultural and gastronomic program, life in Little India doesn’t hit pause.

As we watch the dancing whirlabout, two men carve a path through the crowd, arms raised high, carrying gigantic banana stems with leaves to be placed on each side of the temple entrance, as a symbol of purity.

A truck filled with these banana stalks pulls up, stopping in front of one business after another, so they too can decorate their doorways.

These potless plants are so big that they hardly pass through the shops’ inventory and, on occasion, accidentally knock over a milk pot display.

Businesses brim with activity. Last-minute shopping is a thing. Devotees are still picking paal kudam for Thaipusam. Pots of every size spill out of storefronts and onto sidewalks. A wooden pallet stacked with milk bottles blocks one entrance entirely, never having made it to the shelves.

Local florists are in full overdrive, stringing jasmine, roses, and marigolds into vibrant garlands in their open-air factories of fragrance and color.

Need a coconut? They got you covered. Didn’t order your kavadi in time? Here’s a small one that sits on your shoulder perfectly!

Retail before ritual – everything you can possibly need for Thaipusam processions is here. Even the main thing.

In front of the Sri Mahamariamman Temple, a gold-plated chariot, partially covered with scaffolding and tarpaulin, shines bright, waiting for tomorrow’s grand journey across the town.

Day before Thaipusam

People going coconuts

Even though the golden chariot procession from Aralmigu Mahamariamman Temple was scheduled to start at 6 am, and the silver chariot procession from Nagarathar Kovil Veedu Temple at 7 am, each would be almost half an hour late.

When I arrive at 5:30 am, both chariots seem prepped to go. People stand around, impatient. The same florists from the night before are still threading garlands. Meanwhile, breakfast stations are already serving free morning meals. The streets are lined with mini mountains of coconuts, some dusted with turmeric, some burning.

At 6 am, the sound of tavil drums and nadaswaram (the world’s loudest non-brass acoustic instrument) mixes with a siren. Police try to herd the crowd forward so that the procession can start.

Only at 6:20 am does the golden chariot appear at Chulia Street (just 40 meters from the temple!). Coconuts start raining on the parade, exploding against the asphalt into thousands of pieces.

The same friendly people who were, just minutes ago, distributing breakfast with a smile, now hurl hard shells as if they are piñatas. Juice splashes across saris, shell pieces hit feet like shrapnels. It hurts, I can confirm. But I still try to film, partially hiding behind a street cleaner.

Young, old, men, women, children… Everyone gets to smash a coconut! It may look like war. But it’s worship.

Then – a whistle. Coconut-bombing stops, and a well-coordinated cleaning squad in reflective yellow vests scoops up the debris with scrapers.

For larger piles of coconuts, a skid steer loader is employed. Watch out when this mechanical bull starts plowing through husks – you don’t want to stand in its path!

Coconut carnage is cleared in minutes. But just 20 meters away, the ritual repeats itself.

Thaipusam chariots on the way

Besides the ever-growing carpet of shattered coconuts, devotees seeking blessings for their offerings are also slowing down the progress of the chariot procession.

Normally, they bring silver or brass trays stacked with flowers (jasmine, lotus, marigold), fruits (bananas, mangoes, pomegranates), incense sticks, and milk. There should be one coconut on each plate, too.

These coconuts are already cracked open, cradling a burning camphor block (karpooram in Tamil), releasing a calming scent into the air.

Before they approach the chariot with their offering, devotees have to stop by another bottleneck of Thaipusam’s traffic jam – the mobile coconut-breaking station that goes ahead of the chariot, at snail’s speed. Armed with cleavers and machetes, temple helpers expertly slice coconuts open, and then anoint them with ash and camphor. A small donation (say, 10 ringgit) is customary for this service.

Now with a fully prepared offering plate, devotees storm the chariot. They hand the trays up to the priest who performs a blessing ritual with vibuthi (sacred ash) before returning it.

Parents approach the chariot asking for the same blessing for their children. Babies get lifted up, returning with the holy ash on their forehead and sometimes tears in their eyes.

Everyone wants to get close to the chariot, even if it is just to touch it from behind and exclaim: “Vel, vel!”

While the larger golden chariot, carrying the divine spear, is motorized, the older silver chariot, bearing the idol of Lord Murugan, is pulled traditional way – by oxen. In total, eighteen bulls take turns, each pair pulling the chariot for less than a kilometer before the swap.

These oxen, with brightly painted horns, and adorned with flowers, ropes, and bells, are an instant photo op while they wait for their time slot. Some people feed them bananas.

The light version of Thaipusam

There’s a lot happening as the Thaipusam chariots slowly make their way toward Penang Botanic Gardens.

Along the route, you’ll find miniature shrines, blooming with mandalas, fresh flowers, and images or statues of Lord Murugan and other Hindu deities. Some of these praying spots are simple, others go full-on Vegas – with extravagant lighting, mist sprayers, smoke machines, and water features.

These shrines are often attached to thaneer panthals, generous roadside refreshment stalls where volunteers hand out drinks and food.

If you’re walking with little ones, places like Sia Boey Urban Archaeological Park offer a playground break mid-pilgrimage. Kids will surely summon enough energy for swings, teeters, and slides.

Besides for devotional walks, coconut water-slicked asphalt also serves as a podium for barefoot teens performing kolattam dance. In synchronized formations, they clash their wooden sticks against each other and the ground, adding to the intense soundscape made by traditional musical instruments.

But probably the main attraction of the day before Thaipusam, or Chetti Pusam, are exactly those Chettiar Indians who stop at crossroads and other key places to perform a thol kavadi dance.

The most basic wooden-arch kavadi is not just physically lightweight. If you think you’re not ready for Thaipusam’s hardcore rituals, this procession is the gentle way in, as Chettiars don’t express faith by piercing their bodies. You’ll still experience dancing, singing, and (comm)unity Thaipusam is known for.

Thaipusam Penang road closures

Whether you want to jump into the Penang Thaipusam procession at just the right point, or you’re simply a driver hoping to avoid a traffic jam, it’s good to know which roads close during Thaipusam celebrations.

Typically, roads on the pathway of processions are closed from 10 am on Thaipusam Eve (the day before Thaipusam) until midnight on the day after Thaipusam (when the chariots are expected to return to their parent temples).

After departing from Queen Street and Penang Street, the processions usually follow this route: Chulia Street → Victoria Street → Gat Jalan Prangin → Jalan CY Choy → Jalan Magazine → Jalan Dato Keramat → Jalan Utama → Jalan Kebun Bunga.

The golden chariot which starts first, at 6 am on Thaipusam Eve from Arulmigu Sri Mahamariamman Temple, ends its journey at Thaneermalai Shree Balathandayuthapani Devasthanam or Waterfall Hilltop Temple.

The silver chariot which departs at 7 am from the Nagarathar Kovil Veedu Temple, heads toward the Nattukkottai Chettiar Temple.

Routes can change from year to year. For the most accurate info, check updates from local authorities like MBPP (Penang Island City Council) or PHEB (Penang Hindu Endowments Board). They usually release detailed road closure notices ahead of the festival.

Also, there is a handy tool called Penang Thaipusam chariot tracker, which lets you pinpoint the chariot’s real-time location during the festival – here.

Thaipusam Day

Musicians’ and kavadi makers’ best gig

Thaipusam Day is all about the kavadi processions. Most devotees begin their burdened walk at Lorong Kulit Car Park, making their way up to the Waterfall Hilltop Temple.

Musicians staying at my hotel confirmed it works both ways. They had come all the way from Ipoh, hired to play by two different kavadi bearers – one heading from the parking lot to the hill temple in the morning, and the other one walking the same route in the opposite direction in the afternoon.

Some kavadi bearers even prefer the night walk, as I witnessed. While there are fewer crowds in the evening preceding Thaipusam, there are also fewer participants, and more darkness. To witness piercing rituals, your best bet is to show up on Thaipusam morning.

Throughout the day, trucks deliver dozens and dozens of elaborate kavadis. The supply seems endless. It’s a good time to be a cabinet maker. During Thaipusam, they too are able to respond to multiple well-paid orders, just like the musicians.

On Jalan Dato Keramat, one carpenter shop was in full swing through the night. I’ve passed by in the evening and again in the early morning – same men, still at work, no sign of sleep.

“During the year, I make cabinets”, Ragu (45) tells me while his 18-year-old son adds the final touches to one of the kavadi skeletons. “They are all handmade, and I am free to do whatever I want. Customers give me the artistic freedom.”

It’s all hard work in this raw garage-style space, bare concrete, exposed wires, sawdust-covered floors, screws, wood, and chunks of styrofoam scattered around. A creative mess.

“This Thaipusam, I’m making 10 kavadis”, Ragu shares. “I charge between 1.500 and 2.400 ringgit.”

In a country where the average carpenter earns 2.500 ringgit per month, pulling in ten Thaipusam orders worth 340 to 540 USD each is more than good business – it’s a blessing.

Piercing rituals at the parking lot

Lorong Kulit Car Park, on the western side of Penang City Stadium, is a gathering point for devotees and spectators. The piercing ritual, as I already explained, can be emotionally charged for both (the crying-wife episode, and the Chinese photo conflict).

While devotees silence their bodies and surrender their tongues, cheeks, and skin to the piercing power of the vel, not everyone around them tunes into the same frequency. Amateur or professional, photographers swarm the ritual space. Just like at the Phuket Vegetarian Festival, courtesy often takes a back seat to the quest for the perfect shot.

If you prefer learning about Thaipusam Day via a video, watch this YouTube recording that follows devotees marching from the parking lot to the temples!

After days spent fasting and abstaining from worldly pleasures, devotees welcome Thaipusam Day freshly bathed, clothed in yellow. Though not as common here as at Batu Caves, some go the extra mile with bald-shaven heads, santhanam (sandalwood paste) smeared on their scalps.

Small altars made of banana leaves, laid out with sanctified offerings like coconuts, flowers, betel leaves, turmeric, incense, and camphor, become miniature temples on asphalt. Here, prayers are whispered, blessings are sought.

Before the piercing act begins, the piercee might lie down before their parents or spiritual guide, as a sign of respect, humility, and surrender.

Then comes the transformation. Surrounded by a circle of family and friends chanting the encouraging “vel, vel”, and carried by the pounding rhythm of drums, devotees slip into a trance, or at least a meditative state of inner calm.

The piercer, usually someone experienced, applies vibuthi ash to their body as a protective balm and then inserts spears or hooks.

Bodies are adorned with various objects. It could be a long skewer through the cheeks, a thin spear through the tongue or forehead, hooks in the chest, stomach and back used to suspend small pots, shells, bells, or other symbolic objects, or even larger back hooks attached to ropes or chains, used to pull chariots.

Kavadi types at Penang Thaipusam

Pierced and burdened, kavadi bearers cross the street to reach Sri Muthu Mariamman Temple. Here, final prayers are offered, and a designated group member smashes a coconut. Slushing through coconut water mixed with turmeric, devotees begin their barefoot journey towards Arulmigu Balathandayuthapani Temple (the Waterfall Hill Temple).

A myriad of kavadis can be seen in the Thaipusam parade:

1. Paal kudam (milk pot kavadi)

The most common and accessible form of kavadi. Devotees carry a pot of cow’s milk on their head or shoulder, which will later be used for abhisheka – the ritual bathing of the deity’s statue. Paal kudam or paal kavadi is often chosen by first-timers, women, or children, as it doesn’t involve piercing or structural burden. Instead of milk, the pot could also contain sanctified water (theertha kavadi) or rose water (panneer kavadi).

2. Thol kavadi (shoulder kavadi)

Thol kavadi is simple, humble, and easy to carry, so it is a popular choice for young participants (alongside paal kudam). The wooden semi-circular structure adorned with peacock feathers, flowers, and images of Lord Murugan, rests on the devotee’s shoulder. If this kavadi is heavily decorated with flowers, it’s called pushpa kavadi.

3. Mayil kavadi (peacock kavadi)

A carpenter’s dream, mayil kavadi or alangara kavadi is an extravagant portable altar that can tower up to 3 meters high, and weigh up to 40 kilograms. Decorated in vibrant colors, with peacock feathers, ornaments, bells, and Murugan iconography, this kavadi is carried on a frame strapped onto the devotee via waist and shoulder support.

4. Idumban kavadi (pole kavadi)

Idumban kavadi is a shoulder pole named after the original kavadi bearer – Idumban. Legend says he carried two hills from the Himalayas to South India on such a pole, so idumban kavadi is a symbolic recreation of this journey – using a wooden yoke-like pole with offerings hanging from either end.

5. Alavu kavadi (silent kavadi)

This kavadi focuses more on inner discipline than on structure – alavu kavadi is a form of penitence that prevents devotees from speaking during the Sacred Walk. Their cheek or tongue (or both) are pierced with a small vel (spear) as a form of intentional self-muting in honor of Lord Murugan.

6. Alagu kavadi (beautiful kavadi)

Alagu kavadi is a highly decorative kavadi structure that rests on a devotee’s body via skewers or spikes. It attracts the most attention, but to me it seems it’s more prevalent at Batu Caves Thaipusam. Similar types include silavu kavadi, sedil kutthuk kavadi, or vel kavadi – all of which involve piercing and decorative frameworks.

7. Koodam mulle kavadi (hanging-offerings kavadi)

Koodam mulle kavadi involves small pots of milk, shells, bells, flowers, or fruits (like apples, oranges, or limes). They are tied to hooks which then pierce the devotee’s skin. One kavadi bearer might have hundreds of these little objects hanging from his torso.

8. Vette mulle kavadi (hook-and-pull kavadi)

Vette mulle implies piercing a devotee’s back with hooks. These are attached to ropes or chains that either pull a chariot or are held by an assistant walking behind and applying just enough backward tension to challenge the devotee. The pulling of the chariot is also referred to as ratha kavadi.

Temptations and challenges on the way to the Waterfall Temple

On their path to the temple, kavadi bearers pause for well-deserved breaks – collapsing into chairs brought along by their escort crew, or having water sprinkled on their burning feet and poured down their vel-barred mouths.

They may stop to dance too. Along Jalan Kebun Bunga, traditional Indian music in almost techno blast blares from massive speaker setups, urging devotees to take their kavadis for a spin, displaying them in full glory. Some get a little too enthusiastic, and chunks of styrofoam occasionally flutter to the ground. But that doesn’t stop their ardor.

For non-devotees, reasons to take a break from the walk are even more numerous. Thaneer panthal pavilions offer everything from curry rice and pastries to oranges, soy milk, and sweet juices. This whole stretch of Penang Thaipusam has the vibe of a carnival; you can buy various trinkets and helium balloons, queue for cotton candy, or even take photographs with live snakes wrapped around your neck and yellow-colored pigeons balancing on your shoulders.

Sugar might be the perfect power-up for the final ascent. Reaching Penang Waterfall Hill Temple, one of the largest Hindu temples in Southeast Asia, requires climbing up 513 steps. As everyone wants to spend some time at the temple, pedestrian traffic jam is real. My slow advance to the top via the winding staircase takes almost an hour.

If you’re not great with handling tightly packed crowds, fortunately, there’s a halfway rest stop offering water, shade, and even medical help. That’s not to be underestimated. While I was sipping orange juice, one tourist fainted. First aid volunteers were there in no time.

At the top of the hill, a monumental gopuram tower, 21.6 meters in height, marks the entrance to the temple where you can leave your offerings, or watch the deity being washed in milk (abhishekam).

Metal railings separate three queues at the temple gates. The left one is for those bringing kavadi and paal kudam, the middle is reserved for milk offerings of all shapes and sizes (from smaller paal chembu to larger paal kudam and even commercially packed milk bottles), while the queue on the right is for archanai offerings (coconut, bananas, flowers etc.).

No matter which queue you pick, you’ll be able to enter the temple only if you take your shoes off.

Day after Thaipusam

The return of the chariots

After spending the entire Thaipusam Day at the temples, the chariots go on a return journey the day after Thaipusam – the golden one departs at 6 pm, while the silver chariot rolls out at 7 pm.

If you want to follow along and crack another coconut or two (or 108?), among the significantly fewer crowds, it’s good to know that the return journey follows a different route.

The return path of chariots winds through these roads: Jalan Kebun Bunga → Jalan Gottlieb → Jalan Tunku Abdul Rahman → Jalan Cantonment → Jalan Macalister → Jalan Anson → Jalan Burma → Jalan Transfer → Jalan Sri Bahari → Jalan Penang → Lebuh Campbell → Jalan Buckingham → Jalan Masjid Kapitan Keling → Little India loop.

Just like during the forward procession, you can track the chariot’s return journey online too.

Recommended hotel near Penang Thaipusam locations

If you’re looking to stay in the heart of Little India, where most Thaipusam festivities begin, Palm Mansion Boutique Suites is a charming option. With its blend of traditional heritage and modern comfort, it makes an excellent base for exploring the celebrations. For the best deal, compare prices for your dates on Booking, Agoda, Expedia, and Trip.

For budget travelers, Armenian House by IIP offers great value. Their dormitory room comes with comfy bunk beds, each with a privacy curtain, individual light, and a charging point. The beds are spacious – even tall guests will sleep well. Check and compare prices for your dates on Booking, Agoda, and Trip.

If you’d rather stay closer to the Waterfall Temple, G Hotel Kelawai is an excellent 5-star choice. Expect modern, stylish rooms, and luxury amenities like a rooftop infinity pool. Snag the best deals by comparing rates on Booking, Agoda, Expedia, and Trip.

Looking for a more affordable stay in the same area? Consider Gurney Lodge, which offers clean, air-conditioned rooms at reasonable rates without compromising comfort. I always check several booking engines before reserving a room, as rates can significantly differ. Follow my lead and compare this hotel’s prices on Booking, Agoda, and Trip.

FAQ About Thaipusam in Penang

1. When is Thaipusam celebrated in Penang?

Thaipusam is celebrated on the first full moon day in the Tamil month of Thai. This date aligns with the Pusam star reaching its highest point, typically falling in January or February, depending on the lunar calendar.

If you’re planning to visit Penang, here are the upcoming Taipusam dates:

2026 – February 1st
2027 – January 22nd
2028 – February 9th
2029 – January 30th
2030 – January 19th

2. Is Thaipusam a public holiday in Penang?

Yes, Thaipusam is a state public holiday observed in Penang, as well as in Johor, Kedah, Kuala Lumpur, Negeri Sembilan, Perak, Putrajaya, and Selangor.

3. Where is Thaipusam celebrated in Penang?

Thaipusam centers around two key temples:

• Sri Mahamariamman Temple on Queen Street – Penang’s oldest Hindu temple and the starting point of the procession.
• Arulmigu Sri Balathandayuthapani Waterfall Hilltop Temple on Jalan Kebun Bunga – the final destination of the pilgrimage.

4. How to get to Thaipusam in Penang?

Penang Thaipusam brings road closures and traffic restrictions. If you want to skip the stress of driving or hunting for scarce parking, the best is to avoid motorized vehicles altogether.

Instead, try to stay near the festival zones, and walk! This is the best way to experience the festival atmosphere. After all, it’s not like you’ll be carrying a kavadi with you all day long, will you?

5. Is there an entry fee for Penang Thaipusam?

Nope! Thaipusam is a religious event and participation is free.

6. What to wear for Thaipusam in Penang?

Go for light, breathable clothing, but keep it modest – cover shoulders and knees out of respect. Comfortable walking shoes are a must. And if you want to match the mood, wear yellow – it’s Murugan’s color!

7. Can I take photos?

Yes. Photography is welcome, but be respectful. Avoid using flash, especially around kavadi bearers or during rituals. Step back when people are in a trance.

8. Are there food and drinks available at the festival?

Absolutely! Thaneer panthal stalls hand out free vegetarian meals, while others sell Indian snacks, sweets, and drinks to keep you going.

9. Can I participate in the procession?

The sacred rituals are for devotees, but you’re welcome to walk alongside the procession and observe the experience up close.

10. Is Thaipusam safe for solo travelers?

Yes, it’s generally safe. That said, large crowds can attract pickpockets. Avoid flashy jewelry, keep your belongings close, and stay aware of your surroundings.

Thaipusam in Penang – Conclusion

I love Thaipusam. In Penang, this extraordinary festival becomes an even greater sensory overload – a vibrant collision of devotion, culture, and community spirit.

Whether you watch kavadi bearers in awe or manage to correlate with a touching experience of their commitment to a personal vow, Thaipusam is a one-of-a-kind rollercoaster of spiritual transformation and radical physical endurance.

Penang during Thaipusam is not the place to elbow your way through, chasing shots like a paparazzo with a deadline

Penang is a welcoming place year-round, but during Thaipusam, the hospitality of the Hindu community reaches its peak. Free vegetarian meals and drinks are offered with open hearts. There’s no frantic pushing on the way up the hill, only a calm and collective effort, step by step, toward the temple. And when your eyes meet a stranger’s in the crowd, often you’ll be greeted with a smile – warm and genuine.

For photographers, Thaipusam in Penang is unforgettable. But this is not the place to elbow your way through, chasing shots like a paparazzo with a deadline, and acting like a spoiled brat when things don’t go your way. The people you’re photographing have fasted for 48 days. They’ve prepared their minds and bodies to radiate something they find sacred. If they can still offer a smile after all that, the least you can do is approach them and your craft with respect and humility.

Maybe this last message is personal – addressed to a certain Chinese gentleman in a foreign country. But it applies universally. If the Hindu community of Malaysia can welcome Chinese participants into their rituals without gatekeeping, then surely we, too, can extend that same spirit of tolerance and grace to one another. Especially when all we’re trying to do is tell a – Thaipusam story.

Do you like Penang Thaipusam?
Pin this article for later!

Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links, meaning if you click on them and make a purchase, Pipeaway may make a small commission, at no additional cost to you. Thank you for supporting our work!